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Spent the weekend at Vacationland, Otttertail. Lake level down almost 3 feet so only one landing with enough water to launch a boat. With 20 to 30 MPH winds and 3 to 4 ft. waves we chose to fish surrounding smaller lakes. Had great time Catch & Release Bass fishing. My prise money fish was a sunfish. My giant "Ottertail Money Sunfish" he looks sorta small cause I have very large hands and I held him a long way from the camera. He did put up a good fight. He is still swimming.

After more than a year, thankfully we have been allowed to return to our Rainy Lake home. Hopefully the travel bans will not be repeated. Fall fishing is as good as it gets. Walleye and bass are making their fall transition and are schooled up. Find the right spot and let the party begin! Thanks to Muskies for feeding my addiction while I was stuck in the U.S. If you can get to Ontario, come now!

What a year it has been with this drought. The Mighty Mississippi isn't so mighty anymore but doesn't stop the smallmouth from eating. Got out for a nice evening float after work and found a few quality Bronzebacks.

Hey all, I am new here obviously, but I recently learned how many fish the DNR kill off every year with those surveys. I've never started a petition for anything before, but here's my attempt to get that to stop. https://www.change.org/KillingFishMN This is not about the big lakes. To me it is the same as trying to manage deer by digging a pit in the woods to see what falls in and dies- Wisconsin pretty much gave it up and we should as well. I know some DNR guy is going to get on here and say it is for consistent data, and that it only happens every few years on the smaller lakes. It should not happen at all. Every 10 years and the best fish in the lake might still be dead in that net, just to have a fancy survey. Heres what a survey should look like. https://dnr.wi.gov/lakes/lakepages/LakeDetail.aspx?wbic=967200 If there are already petitions and groups out there trying to change this I would like to get involved, A

Was looking at doing some bass fishing on big marine. I saw on the map that little inlet on the far south side that goes into some super shallow water. I’m guessing it’s full of weeds or pads of some sort. Anyone bass fished tgat in the summer before. I would be doing it by canoe. Just seeing if it’s worth a shot.. Thanks

Looking to head out kayak bass fishing with the gal here in the next couple weeks on lake independence. I have never been on the lake and would love some help to get her a few fish. Bass only. Thanks

Anybody have any tips or secrets they care to share about fishing rush for large mouths in early June I am a high school bass angler ad our first tournament is there. If you have anything that could give some insight please do share.

So I really got my first field test of my new Zodias Rod I purchased this spring. I did bring out both the ZDS70LA and ZDS70MLA. Since I only managed to hook up with fish on the Light power rod, it's really the only one that got the real test. Anyway for both rods casting is wonderful smooth and slick. I didn't put any additional effort other than the bare minimum. Lure retrieve also was wonderful for both rods and both rods don't even feel like 7 feet rods that's I've used in the past. I almost felt like they were shorter rods with feel in likeness to a typical 6'6" rod in use. Working lure retrieval on these rods feels like they're robust medium rods. At first I was wondering what's the ding ding sound while I was using the rod and it turns out that it was just the butt handle clanging onto some D rings on my clothing. I almost though that something in the rod was broken or either it was my reels. What a relief. I'm still not quite accustomed to this effortless casting motion and having a lure project itself so smoothly. Still not accustomed to a rod that in the casting motion is so well tuned. I did not even need any counterforce at the end of the casting stroke nor any need to grip the rod more firm to dampen the typical harmonic vibration that some rods exhibits. That monocoque butt handle design really upgrade the feel of these rods. While hooking up with some little white bass, the Light power rod loads up very well progressively. These are just fish in the 15-19 inch range so not to big nor are small either. Overall I could've confused my sense that it was a Moderate action Medium powered rod with the crispness of feel of a Light powered rod. Only a few times did I look down on the whole rod with the fish on did I notice that it was still a Light powered rod. I didn't have a need to put a hook set nor did I feel the pronounced tap on the inhale to drive a reactionary hook set. There is the feel of the bite, then the solid weight feel and the fish is securely hooked. Looking forward for more field testing of the Zodias rods.

It was just about two years ago when I decided to venture into a different braid line. Sufix Advance 832 braid was a preference of mine. So after receiving the Diawa braids, I gave it the good old line break test rundown on the knot to swivel. There were good results. Diawa J-Braid x8 .06 mm 6# knot break 8# 4 oz Diawa J-Braid x8 .13 mm 8# knot break 11# 9 oz Diawa J-Braid x8 .15 mm 10# knot break 13# Diawa J-Braid Grand x8 .06mm 6# knot break 6# 4 oz Diawa J-Braid Grand x8 .13 mm 8# knot break 10# 12 oz Diawa J-Braid Grand x8 .15 mm 10# knot break 16# 14 oz ***** I had always been line joining with a nail knot to nail knot for the longest time. I had also tried the albright and modified albright knot on few times. All this until I discovered the FG knot. Now I had never questioned the strength of the FG knot. All I knew before was that occassionally it slipped and unraveled after use. Since we are experiencing something of a polar vortex, I reckon I do some knot testing. Diawa J-Braid x8 6# FG to FG knot on 30# mono Three trials in # and oz.: 8#14, 9#3, 9#1 While the my direct knot to swivel yield a break at 8#4 oz., it does indicate that the FG knot with a mono is breaking at a higher threshold. While it wasn't much more for this braid line, it is giving me an indication that perhaps J-Braid x8 in itself has a higher resilience for direct knot tying. I will confirm this with a few other tests of J-Braid x8. Side note: I was physically comparing line feel between YGK G-Soul Upgrade X-8 14# with Diawa J-Braid x8 6# and both seem very close in appearance of line thickness and feel. Only G-Soul seem to have a slight more line body. Diawa J-Braid x8 10# FG to FG knot on 30# mono One trial knot break 17# 12 oz. I didn't feel like I needed to test the line any further. That one trial test was enough, especially with the results. So all the results thus far is confirming that the FG knot will be a better connection point to a lure and I should go with the extra care to do so. Bonus for Sufix 832 Advance braid FG knot testing as well. Sufix 832 Advance Braid 10# FG knot to FG knot on 30# mono Three trials all knot breaks in # and oz.: 15#, 20#, 19# 1 Sufix 832 Advance Ice Braid 4# FG knot to FG knot on 30# mono Three trials all knot breaks in # and oz.: 13#7, 12# 1, 12#12 In addition to note that in comparison to previous 832 tested on terminal tackle of a knot to swivel: Sufix 832 Ice Braid .10mm 4# knot break 9# 2 oz. Sufix 832 Braid .20 mm 10/4 knot break 17# 5 oz.

So onto a little experiment with the FG knot testing of the YGK G-Soul Upgrade X-8 and I crudely tied it onto some Fluorocarbon leader of either 30 or 40 lb test. I only did that one section and went to tie off the other end to a swivel like I normally would do so. For the results the FG knot would not break and held throughout my test. I tried a variation of knots this time and use a different choice of line to act as a buffer for the knot. Line upon itself yield a result of 5# 9 oz. Line with 80# braid yield a result of 5# 8 oz. Palomar knot: 4# 9 oz. Double Palomar knot: 5# 3 oz. Line with 4# gamma polyflex: 5# 9 oz. Mock FG onto a line clip: 7# 14 oz. Well if anything, it seems this line has a very strong FG knot compatibility. Typically it's my FG knot slipping and falling apart before the line breaks. Next up is FG to FG to double check how well an actual FG knot holds on me. Using the 14# YGK G-Soul Upgrade X-8 and connecting to 30# mono. It's kind of a test of whether a sloppy tied FG knot will hold. In the past I've had FG knots slipped on my connection during use. It would be obvious if the tag ends starts to unravel but sometimes it's the FG knot loops that gets loosen up. So I understand the importance of a well snugged down FG knot tying process needs to be in order to be effective. Well with such a tiny and light braid, that kind of tying pressure is not possible. At most it will just be snug and must be moderately done in the process otherwise the whole loops are pulled out even before they set down. For the test purpose the loops will only be done to 10 count only, that's about 10 per side and is kept rather short. Two slip knots with the mono and then two onto the main line. This is just bare minimum. The results with three trials. 8#4, 8#15, 9#14. I was very sloppy on my first FG knot trial. There was obvious a knot break but the whole FG knot did not unravel. The other end with the other FG knot held. There was also line pinch burn damage on the mono on the broken end after I removed the remaining broken FG knot.. The second trial was used on the same line, but I was more attentive to my knot tying. Again this knot also showed the same characteristic of a knot break due to line pinch again. It's a very typical braid break just right at the knot. The third trial on the same line, now I was much more attentive to my FG knot tying this time. Wow, best results so far and was on the same line. 16# YGK G-Soul Upgrade X-8 on FG to FG knot on 30# mono Three trials: 13#10, 14#1, 13#13 This is a huge difference comparing to my direct conventional tackle knot. Again the line breaks were right at the knot with the exception of one trial where I felt the knot slipping during my pull and it actually broke at the far bottom of the knot at the opposite end. Perhaps my initial loop must've crossed and that may have caused a pinch spot. I never figure that the FG knot would lend to better knot strength and this is giving results that tells me it's something I should put into practical use Final note that while using mono on the FG knot, I did not see the recoil effect on the braid line when I did a straight knot to knot trial of just the braid. The mono stretch must've absorbed the the recoil. As I was expecting lower knot results from a sequential trial, I am see this now that having a shock absorbing effect changes the results. The braid line is protected while the knot pinch where it is at the weakest point will break.

It's been awhile since I purchased any new braided lines. The last batch of lines was a bunch of Diawa J-Braid x8 and J-Braid Grand x8, a couple of Fireline Ultra 8, and Nanofil lines. On my list would be YGK G-Soul Upgrade X8 line and YGK G-Soul SS112 Sinking Braid line. Well, shopping cart, submitted. Well I ordered a few lines but I stayed with the small diameters again and keeping them under .200 mm for the most part. This will put it in the same frame as most of the other lines I've used in the past for ice fishing. So my impulsive line order came through and I ordered a variety of line tests. YGK G-Soul Upgrade X-8 14# at .131 mm 16# at .153 mm 22# at .171 mm 25# at .185 mm YGK G-Soul SS112 Sinking Braid 10# at .165 mm 14# at .185 mm All I can say is wow this line is thin. It feels significantly much thinner than anything I've felt. Even more thin than the J-Braid x8 Grand. Will have to give it some line break test and some side to side comparison later. The clear package spool is a great visual product. One can really see how nice the line is and how little room it takes. The appearance is so uniform and even as a braid, it looks like a single monofilament. Some preliminary line break test on the G-Soul Upgrade X-8 with all knot break failures. 14# listed with four trials: 6#15, 6#12, 7#0, 6#15 16# listed with four trials: 9#0, 9#15, 8#15, 8#15 22# listed with three trials: 13#10, 12#15, 12#10 It's been a while since I've tied and manipulated the knot on thin PE lines. I can't remember what I did to achieve a higher strength. However, I'm glad to see a rather consistent breakage. It means two contributing factor. First I may be tying a rather consistent knot with how I'm tying. Second, the line is consistent in uniformity strength with the extrusion process. As much as I expected that I was not going to get the manufacture listed line break strength, after all that's not what I'm after. I'm after my real world use of the line and how the knot will hold for me. I tried looking for my 6# Diawa J-Braid to make a line to line comparison but couldn't find it at the moment. I did find some 10# J-Braid X8 and the 4# Berkley Nanofil line. The 14# G-Soul Upgrade looked thinner than 10# J-Braid while the 16# looked very much alike in diameter. The 4# Nanofil was just about equal in turns of line diameter thickness. The line is very pliable. Compare to Nanofil, it feels very much like it. The line feels so smooth and has a good body feel almost as if it is one single thread. There is also a self support and while holding about 4 to 5 inches horizontal of line material. That's quite amazing and almost feels like a levitation trick. Getting to about 6 to 7 inches it will be pull down by gravity and is no longer able to self support horizontally. Compressing the line by pinching and pushing together did not yield any strand separations. The weave is just too uniform and well packed. I was only able to see a sign of thread separation after multiple line break of the same sample. Even then I was not able separate the thread weave. Further note is that this time I did a really crude line test method. I kept using the same line even after the first break. Typically I expect that the sequent test should have yield less results. After all there were obvious signs of line damage even after the first line break test. I could see that the thread fluffed up where the fibers broke in multiple spots throughout the sample test line. Another telltale sign was how the line had contracted into a somewhat bunched deformity of random compressed doodle. This means that the fibers were stretched and rebounded. However it's odd that later test of the same sample would yield a higher break strength. This could hint that the line is still very strong even after some light stressed breakage. Similar line diameter .13mm comparison: 14# G-Soul Upgrade X-8 is within same break threshold and is below average. Diawa J-Braid Grand x8 .13 mm 8# knot break 10# 12 oz. Berkley NanoFil 6# .13mm knot break 9# 14 oz. Berkley Fireline Original .13 mm 4# knot break 6# 12 oz. Similar line diameter .15mm comparison: 16# G-Soul Upgrade X-8 is within same break threshold and is just below average. Diawa J-Braid x8 .15 mm 10# knot break 13# Diawa J-Braid Grand x8 .15 mm 10# knot break 16# 14 oz. Berkley Fireline Crystal .15 mm 6# knot break 8# 8 oz. Similar line diameter .171mm comparison: 22# G-Soul Upgrade X-8 is average break and slightly above. ASSO Sinking Braid .16mm 10# knot break 12# 5 oz. ASSO Sinking Braid .18mm 12# knot break 13# 10 oz. Berkley Fireline Original .18 mm 8# knot break 11# 6 oz.

Just retired in December so I'll have a lot more time to fish. In addition to my normal walleye fishing I want to 1) learn to consistently find and catch/release larger sunfish and crappie after they spawn and 2) spend more time targeting bass, largemouth and smallmouth. I've been a longtime member here (2002) and will be posting more. I added info to my profile and "About me" section.

Spinning Rods ZDS270ML I bought the 7' ML Fast action spinning rod at the same time I bought the baitcasting Zodias Rod. Originally I was leaning more towards a L power rod, of which they did not produce such. So I settled on this one as I was looking to replace a Cabela's XML 7' ML rod that fishes well but had that butt weight system that weighs it down. The rod comes with the same 8 Fuji Alconite guides plus a SiC tip like the baitcasting models. I did use the rod to toss a lot of light 1/8 oz. lures, to include in-line spinners, poppers, and Yo-zuri Pins Minnow of including the 2" 1/16th oz. version. It's a good rod for the $200 price point and did everything fine. No complaints from me, except that for spring fishing that aluminum lock nut is cold. There is no hook keeper on this model, leaving me to either hook onto the line guides or remove lure altogether. It was pretty much an utility rod for my intention and it did everything I needed it to do. I have not tried any float fishing with the rod, as I seem to have been doing less and less of it within the last few years. ZDS76LA After getting that new 2020 Zodias updated model in a casting rod and getting won over by some cold casting backyard, I had to just pick up at least on new 2020 Zodias updated spinning model. At first I saw the 6'9" ML model but I really was leaning towards a L power. The limited selection there left me with the 7'6" L power moderate fast action as pretty much the only choice. Which is acceptable, I was leaning towards a longer rod just for the casting distance leverage. A lot of this is influenced by the casting effect and results from that new Zodias casting rod. There are some cosmetic changes to the reel seat. There is more EVA foam over the entire reel seat and some of it runs onto the top of the handle just opposite the reel. The locking nut is same as the updated casting rod, it's slightly shorter but slightly larger diameter. The frames are also changed over to the grey ones. Instead of the more traditional frame, these have that flanged frame before the ring insert referred as Fuji K frames. When I put my 1000 sized reel on and line check, what I found was that there was a slight negative line angle on the top side of the rotor to the stripper line guide. Typically the line is straight, but I checked with a larger reel just to see if it's the same effect. Used a 2500 sized reel and saw that the line still touches the the ring on the top of the rotor and all around the ring on the full rotor movement. Hmmm...what does this mean? How does this benefit or affect the overall performance. Well I have to wait a see how on the water performance will do in a few months. And looking at the rod and noticing this "Attention" label and two symbols on it. I couldn't make out what they heck the symbols were as they were kind of small. At first I thought maybe just a warning so people don't grab the rod high on the blank and then breaking their rods. Nah that couldn't be it. Maybe the aluminum lock nut might pinch their fingers or get stuck on the blank and leveraging will break the rod. Then finally I always think fishing rod, lightning, oh yeah. Don't go fishing while there's lightning and watch out for overhead power wires. D'uh. I had also looked at several other rods in likeness to include Phenix Feather and Diawa Kage rods.

Casting Rods: ZDS170MLG I was looking for a medium light casting rod and this one sort of fill the specs I was looking for. These rods retails for around $200 and getting a sale price on them makes them very attractive price point. So I took a feel to it in the store and liked it enough to purchase it. The rod has 8 Fuji Alconite guides plus a SiC tip guide. Split Grip EVA foam handles and a Ci4+ graphite reel seat with an aluminum locking nut. This particular 7' ML model is listed as a moderate action and has a G designation for some glass material in the blank. While I checked the tip flex, it wasn't quite as flexible as I was expecting from like a crank bait rod. The only other crank bait rod I have to compare is my old Shimano Crucial medium power moderate fast action. The ZDS170MLG has a faster tip action and a much stronger main blank section. After using the rod for over a year, I personally don't do much cranking, but top water poppers and spooks I like. A lot of typical jerkbaits like Xrap08 and Yo-Zuri 3DS 1/4 oz. I also like throwing a lot of inline spinners as well as light spoons. This has been fulfilling it's intended purpose very well with the majority of weight in the 1/4 oz. and a few in the 3/8 oz. 2020 Zodias were updated with a carbon monocoque handle. No big deal but seems like a lot of different model change. Gone were many of the old blank action and power. ZDC72MLBFSA So by chance I got curious and decided to buy into a new updated model just recently. This casting model again featured the 8 Fuji Alconite line guides plus a SiC tip, but they came with a grey frame instead of the shiny silver frame from previous model. A slight change to the reel seat and slight changes the the aluminum lock nut. The biggest change was the carbon monocoque handle on the butt of the rod. The 7'2" ML power rod is listed with an extra fast action tip. I checked that again my St. Croix MXF rods and it's not exactly the same. It's a little slower, a softer tip transition. I mounted my old Metanium MG7 reels with 15# Fireline Braid and went to do some backyard cold casting practice. It's just going to be a side sling because of overhead tree limps. Cold cuz it's freezing outside and there's plenty of snow on the ground. I had prepped a 3/16th oz Torpedo without any hooks - used to be a Bill Dance special I think with a different weight from the other normal ones. On my first attempt, much to my surprise is how different the casting effect was. There was a definitive lightness and effortless casting effort. I tried again and the wow factor hit me. That's not all the whoah factor hit me as well in how much more distance I was getting with my cast. Just to double check, I tried two other prepped hookless lures, a 1/2 oz. Spook and 1/4 oz Blue Fox Mininow Spin. Again it confirms how effortless my casting stroke was and how light it was. The carbon monocoque handle has this much noticeable effect. The transfer of casting distance on this particular rod is just that it's a mere 2" over that of the other Zodias rod is was using before. Again just to double check the following next two days I swapped reels between the two rods. The other reel was my Shimano Chronarch MGL with 20# J-Braid x8 which is a slightly heavier line, but the spool was an updated lighter type. Again the wow factor was still there. The casting distance was there again. I didn't feel that the Chronarch MGL was this good from before, but now apparently it would make me buy another one or give it my recommendation. The initial cast motion was all the effort I put into it just enough to get the lure going. The lightness of the rod overall means I don't need to impart anything more at the end of my cast. I can foresee a lot of fatigue reduction if I were to fish for extended periods. If I had to compare distance results, it seemed like the new rod was getting easily 10 feet gain on the 3/16th oz., about 15 feet gain on the 1/4 oz. and about 20 plus feet gain on the 1/2 oz. based on a moderate effortless side cast. Regardless it was very noticeable difference and results comparing to the other rod and the spots where the lure hits upon the snow. Again all of this is with freezing cold hands and I had to cut it short each day. I did also snagged some tree twigs and had to pull the rod tip against it. Just to double check the tip flex and rod bend. Yes really I intended to do that. Well it really confirms that the extra fast tip isn't as fast as the St Croix MXF tips. Also confirms that the moderate tip was much faster than a moderate fast medium crank bait rod. I can foresee myself getting another updated 2020 Zodias rod in the future. That carbon monocoque handle has intrigued me a lot. Just need open water to see how the affect will be for real lures in the water. Most of all, I feel that it's like an Ugly Stick reborn into it's full potential, minus the clear tip.

There is a proposal to angling in the form of catch and release for bass year round in the works. This would be in addition to the current regulations that allow the limited harvest of both smb and lmb from late May until the season closes. I know that Michigan and Wisconsin both allow the specific targeting of bass for catch and release purposes before their traditional opening date. Michigan has done it for years, and Wisconsin just started it last year. I'm not real positive that this will pass, as I think MN is about a decade behind Wisconsin when it comes to these kinds of changes.

Hi, I already use squarebill cranking and am looking for a good normal Crankbait. What is the best one?

I am new to ice fishing and the aitkin area. I am wondering what is the best colors and even jigs for walleye and crappies in the aitkin area. Its my 1st year of icexfishing. I've always been into open water before.

Has anyone ever fished Nina Moose? I’ve heard it has good fishing, the trip would be mostly walleye and smallmouth.

Mississippi River, pool 5a Texas Rig; Pit Boss with the heaviest weight I could find ? the second (pictured) Bass will probably be the biggest I catch all year. Just under 3 lbs. As much as I don't care for Pike. I had to show this hog my buddy pulled in this day. Northern Pike, weighing just over 10 lbs - look at that dragon head!

The bass are starting to put their feed bag on! Check out this video below. We were near Park Rapids.

After fishing every handful in years in Minnesota for 40 years, I'm FINALLY going to bring my wife up to Vermillion and see it for the first time. I'm chasing smallmouth and pike only (well, I'll gladly wrestle with a fooled Musky but not fishing for them). If the largemouth fishing is better than the smallmouths, we'd probably chase some of them too. Staying at Ludlows on the island. Boy I'd love ANY help with where to start my searching for the smallies and pike and what to key in on that time of year. I'll have basically two days to fish and will have my own bass boat. I am an artificial bait only guy and catch and release. Just looking for a bunch of tugs on the line and hopefully put my wife on some action. Any guidance or direction?? How deep are the smallies and what do they relate to that time of year? Are the pike around visible weeds or submerged cabbage or something? I'm coming in clueless. Sure appreciate ANY help anyone's willing to provide. Thanks!!! Yancey from St. Louis, MO

After fishing every handful in years in Minnesota for 40 years, I'm FINALLY going to bring my wife up to Vermillion and see it for the first time. I'm chasing smallmouth and pike only (well, I'll gladly wrestle with a fooled Musky but not fishing for them). If the largemouth fishing is better than the smallmouths, we'd probably chase some of them too. Staying at Ludlows on the island. Boy I'd love ANY help with where to start my searching for the smallies and pike and what to key in on that time of year. I'll have basically two days to fish and will have my own bass boat. I am an artificial bait only guy and catch and release. Just looking for a bunch of tugs on the line and hopefully put my wife on some action. Any guidance or direction?? How deep are the smallies and what do they relate to that time of year? Are the pike around visible weeds or submerged cabbage or something? I'm coming in clueless. Sure appreciate ANY help anyone's willing to provide. Thanks!!! Yancey from St. Louis, MO

Looking to bring my fly fishing into the metro. Anyone willing to share where they've gone, if at all?

Recommendations for good kayak fishing in Minneapolis or St Paul (NOT a far drive, I live downtown but love the outdoors, so accessibility is key). Species doesn't matter a whole lot, love it all - bass, walleye, northern, musky. I'm aware of where I can get to with a kayak, but am curious if anyone is willing to share something a bit more precise from their personal experience in a kayak or boat. Thanks!

Got out on Fathers day with the Kayak down the Mississippi River for some good ole Smallmouth Bass action. River was low which made a great float and the smallies were hungry! They just couldn't resist the wacky worm once again. We have such an amazing fishery here in MN, glad to call this state home. Enjoy.