Auger Bit Adapter Or Dedicated Drill Auger

[Robert James Ferdinandt]

Looking for recommendations or feedback from anyone that has used any of the drill adapters with a hand auger like StrikeMaster has vs using a dedicated auger like the pistol bit. I can see there is some weight difference between the two but you can get a set up for half the cost if you are okay with the weight. 

 

Adapter: https://www.rapala.com/strikemaster/auger-accessories/two-stage-drill-adapter-for-auger-drills-/NDA-3.html?cgid=strikemaster-augerAccessories&taglist=StrikeMaster|Auger Accessories#start=3&cgid=strikemaster-augerAccessories 

 

[Noyo]

I'm wondering about this too. I've watched several YouTube videos and haven't seen $175 worth of difference between these two options. I'll confess that I'm a cheapskate and will probably try the $25 adapter and retainer plate first. I don't mind being disappointed so much after gambling $25 on a piece of gear as I do blowing $200. I'm only 63 & 1/2 years-old so I guess that until I get old I can keep spinning the auger by hand. 

[leech~~]

Welcome to the forum guys. 

There are a bunch of people on here that chat about the next greatest battery powered drill gizmo each year. I'm sure one will be by soon with a reply.

 

Sorry I can't help but I'm a gas auger guy.  GAS is better anyway!

 

there that will get one of them stopping by soon!     

[AlwaysFishing23]

I started off with a adapter on my drill and wasn’t a big fan. Ended up getting the clam plate and 6” lazer auger and man what a world of difference! Super light does it rip holes! The clam plate IS worth it! I prefer it over the adapter big Time 

[Wanderer]

Any drill you use with an auger should have a side handle to help stabilize it.  I can imagine it would be a struggle without one.  I’ve never used a clam drill plate but it definitely gives a person the most grip surface.

 

I bought Ice Master adapters for my Nils bits and have been happy with them.  The Nils are the best hand augers out there so that helps.  The disc on the pistol bit is to prevent it from falling through the hole if it comes loose from the drill chuck.  The Ice Master takes care of that concern.

[papadarv]

All my auger bits are configured to attach to gas power heads. (7/8" shaft) I configured my M18 fuel drill with a chuckless adapter and a Eskimo ION quick connect which uses the 3/4" shaft, same dia. as the Mora hand auger handle, clam plate and many auger bits. Also made adapters to fit my concerted Mora bits. No plate needed and never loose a auger bit.

[Tryagain]

I bought an ice masters for my mora and it works well, I just use the drill, I don't have a handle and don't need one, hold the drill with both hands and it handles the torque fine.

[dillon]

After using my buddy’s K-drill, I bought the Strikemaster adapter to try with my 7” hand auger. I actually thought my set up worked as good as or better than the K-drill. Not to mention, $17 vs. $200. 

[monstermoose78]

The clam plate gives you a good handle to hang on to and not having to worry about hurting your wrist. It’s also nice to be able to set the clam plate down just like a gas auger. 

[Dave S]

On 12/17/2019 at 9:30 PM, Robert James Ferdinandt said:

Looking for recommendations or feedback from anyone that has used any of the drill adapters with a hand auger like StrikeMaster has vs using a dedicated auger like the pistol bit. I can see there is some weight difference between the two but you can get a set up for half the cost if you are okay with the weight. 

 

Adapter: https://www.rapala.com/strikemaster/auger-accessories/two-stage-drill-adapter-for-auger-drills-/NDA-3.html?cgid=strikemaster-augerAccessories&taglist=StrikeMaster|Auger Accessories#start=3&cgid=strikemaster-augerAccessories 

 

 

As per my recent experience, if you're staring new, go with the designated auger bit. The adapters are made of soft steel and will twist off if you bind up a few times. especially if the hex is only 3/8".

If you're going with an adapter, have someone make one out of stainless for you. Or at least a stronger steel than the mild stuff sold in stores.

[Kettle]

I used a 20v drill with the 20$ chuck attachment and a 6" lazer hand mag and it did work. With that being said I'm back to drilling by hand. Monstermoose said it, you can easily end up with a wrist injury as there is nothing to absorb the speed if it catches. I'd either go with a drill plate or a bit designed for attaching a drill. The way it torques your wrist back is like falling on an outstretched hand and even a minor scaphoid bone injury can cause serious longterm injuries 

[eyeguy 54]

Drill and handle.

[Borch]

I've never had any concerns with the side handle and drilling with my kdrill.  But once or twice tried using it without the handle.  A recipe for disaster as far as I'm concerned.  So much torque if it grabs.  So I'd agree using the clam plate or at least a side handle if using a drill auger combo.

[Chill62]

So I might be the odd ball to this topic but I figured I would give our set ups because I don't think 1 drill is perfect for all situations.

 

I used to use gas and hated the noise, smell and I have two bad shoulders and starting sucked on my shoulders.  I debated getting propane but the weight wasn't a selling point for me so I decided to go electric.  I bought the Strikemaster V40 in an 8 inch and I regret not getting the 10 inch (Tuilibee and hard sided house).  We also bought an Eskimo Pistol put it on with a Milwaukee drill for the girlfriend.  She wanted to be more self sufficient so thought great idea.  Well after a few trips out we decided she needed to get a clam drill plate, I did add the springs onto ours to make it more like a regular auger that helped a ton with her!  We ran that all of last year and they both have their advantages...thin ice the drill was perfect but late season drilling 50-75 holes a day the Strikemaster was best. 

 

This year I've been doing a lot more scouting new spots than in years past and I've been looking at making a change to lighten up the load and I was debating on getting another drill set up in a 6 inch set up BUT after I got my huge crappie before Christmas I started rethinking a 6 inch hole option.  The local bait shop is having a heck of a deal on the Lite Flight's and I went in on Sunday morning and they had one 8 inch left in stock.  I did buy that and Sunday night I installed it on my V40, main thing will be the 7 pound weight reduction which puts my overall weight down to 19 or 20 pounds.  The girlfriend is in a tournament in March and I'm getting the V40 ready for her to fish in the tournament.  Five to Seven pounds might not seem like a lot of weight reduction (25%) but for me it's a huge difference right now.  I have not hit the ice with it yet since the auger shaft was frozen into the power head and the collar area had a plastic covering so adding heat wasn't going to be an option to free it up on Sunday.  Its also not uncommon for us to bring both augers out each time because it helps getting set up and scouting finding fish.  We rarely set up our fish houses.

 

Saturday I volunteered for a Women's Anglers of Minnesota Ice Fishing 101 class.  Jiffy is a sponsor of them and they donated 2 power heads (Propane and a E6 Lightning) and we were setting them up and one of the shafts was a prototype.  Jiffy is potentially coming out with a shorter shaft auger for women anglers and to reduce weight with a chipper head on it.  Both are great units and the new propane started on the second pull.  The one thing though that I did not like about the jiffy set ups is that they use a pin not a bolt to connect the head to the shaft.  As a result it has a lot of wobble in it for my liking.  I'm sure there is a reason why they do it that way but I did not care for the wobble.

 

Early ice a drill set up is AMAZING, Electric isn't as efficient but is nice if you don't want to bring a lot of spare batteries for the drill

Mid ice drill set up is starting to eat up a lot of batteries and this is where an electric starts gaining ground. Gas starts gaining stock.

Late Ice a drill set up isn't good for hole hoping in 2.5-3 feet of ice and an electric really excels in thicker ice but a Gas/propane starts gain strength.

 

Also not all anglers are the same...how many holes do you drill?  Do you go out every time set your house up and drill maybe 10 holes from November to April?  Then a hand drill is probably all you need all year.  I drill a decent about of holes 50-75 a day depending on how many lakes we fish and if we find fish and yes I can buy multiple batteries for a drill but when ice gets thicker that's why I bought the electric auger.  Now you get some guides that will drill 100-200 in a day and gas is important for them because they can refill the gas tank out on the ice and keep drilling and not have to worry about batteries charging.  Finally if you fish "Dirty Ice" you need to match your auger to the conditions, electric augers are "Shavers" and shavers do not do good with dirty ice.  Chippers are best for dirty ice, that's why K-Drill is very popular because they have more of a chipper head and the E6 Lightning is also.

[eyeguy 54]

11 hours ago, Borch said:

I've never had any concerns with the side handle and drilling with my kdrill.  But once or twice tried using it without the handle.  A recipe for disaster as far as I'm concerned.  So much torque if it grabs.  So I'd agree using the clam plate or at least a side handle if using a drill auger combo.

agree big time. the first time I used a kdrill was up on bowstring a few years ago. Was a friends and I had never seen them. No handle with 8 inch. Asked if I could try it and dang near ripped my arm off. lol  Never tried one again till I saw a friend with a handle on his. 

[eyeguy 54]

Friend in ND has an 8 inch kdrill with extention and a mud mixer drill for late ice.  I drilled a couple hole with it in 45 inches of ice last march out there and that set up was sweet! Chipper is great for the dirty ice out there. 

[Wanderer]

40 minutes ago, Chill62 said:

The one thing though that I did not like about the jiffy set ups is that they use a pin not a bolt to connect the head to the shaft.  As a result it has a lot of wobble in it for my liking.  I'm sure there is a reason why they do it that way but I did not care for the wobble.

I understood the reason was to eliminate the need to add an extra quick connect/disconnect  to easily separate the auger from the power head.  I’ve only cut a handful of holes with my E6 but didn’t notice an annoying wobble.  None really at all.  I’ll have to pay close attention next time.

 

So far, I really like that feature.

[AlwaysFishing23]

Unless you have a nice dewalt or Milwaukee hammer drill with a the side handle do your self a favor and get the drill plate, your wrists will thank you. 

Edited January 14, 2020 by AlwaysFishing23

[eyeguy 54]

Mine is not a hammer drill 

[AlwaysFishing23]

I’ve went back and forth debating to buy (bare tool) a dewalt hammer drill for boring holes. To be able to obtain the better construction of the hammer vs the driver. But I started off with the dcd 791 (compact brushless drill driver). Puts out 620 inch lbs of torque and the thing really is a beast. I have 3- 5ah battery’s and a 4ah and have never drained down 1 5ah in a day of fishing yet. Spins the 6” lazer like a champ. I’ve used the 8” to but want to do some more testing with it now that we have a little thicker ice. Very happy overall. Buddies love using it as well.

 

Eyeguy The nice thing about the Milwaukee’s is that all the drill drivers or hammer drills come with the side handle where years ago only the hammer came with the side handle. How are you liking your setup with the Milwaukee ( non hammer). What bit are you running?

Edited January 14, 2020 by AlwaysFishing23

[eyeguy 54]

I sold my nills cuz of the slush issue and use a 6 k drill now. Not as fast and battery doesn’t last as long but I am happy. 

[Getanet]

I have a 6" Nils and Dewalt without a handle.  95% of the time it cuts with no problem. That 5% of the time though when it catches on something breaking through, it can hurt. Unfortunately I don't think I can add a handle to mine (Dewalt 20V DCD771C2). If I could do it over again I'd probably get the Milwaukee, but won't be buying anything else until this one dies out.

[papadarv]

After last weekend on Ottertail, I am in total agreement the drill auger set-up with your auger of choice, is the only way to go. Neither of our Eskimo gas would start/run well at -17. Drill/Auger set-up on my 1200ip file with handle and 9ah battery was flawless. My auger is a 8" modified hand auger to fit my gas so I needed to make an adapter to fit the drill quick release. Future mods my son and others want will be simple as the hand auger crank handle shaft is the same diameter as the quick release, just need to cut handle off below bottom bend, add a cap screw & weld the threaded part to the shaft auger. I also added my slush propel find to the bottom flights just below the blades to propel the slush 18" away from the drilled hole under the ice reversing the dill. Only way to go

[IceHawk]

Papadarv nice setup looks like to me you are a master fabricator. Really appreciate  your ability's  to create and design  things on your own 

[IceHawk]

Have to Agree if I was to do it all over again I would do the mud mixer by far the easiest setup for a k drill besides the clam plate. I;ve had a chance to use almost all the electrics and IMO Chill62 is spot on. All of the setups mentioned have a time and place. Here's my take on what I found  by testing and fishing with a few.   For reopening holes and cutting in community spots dirty ice K drill hands down. For a drill setup that gets piles of holes per battery charge a clam plate Strike master bit or light flight drill combo. For a great electric without a drill  capable of cutting numerous holes the Strike master 40 v hands down. Although I thought they kind of grab on bottom of ice but that might be from me pushing down to hard.  I still own a Strike master lazer solo and I guarantee I will never let it go. Some call them Dinasours extinct so to say I say there wrong. When ice gets real thick mid  late season and I can drive out this bad boy comes out when searching for panfish bites and fresh fish. Cutting multiple holes through thick ice say 50-100 plus a day requires power and gas is the answer for me. For the record as far as Elecrtics go I own a K-drill for my style of fishing

Edited January 15, 2020 by IceHawk

[papadarv]

I got the Milwaukee Mud Mixer 2 summers ago thinking it would be great based on several reports and drilling videos. Turned out quite disappointing. Yes it has power and great drill speed selection, but it also has a built in thermistor sensor that shuts the drill down when designers felt it reached a temperature that would cause a failure. Turns out that time is between 3 or 4 holes drilled in < 20" ice. Took about 5 min. to recover and stop again after 2 holes. It's now retired to lower & raise my motor home jack's. 

The Milwaukee 2804 gen 3 Fuel 1200 IP drill with handle in my opinion is a much better choice, it rocks. My old mud mixer set-up.

Edited January 16, 2020 by papadarv

[Rick G]

2 hours ago, IceHawk said:

Have to Agree if I was to do it all over again I would do the mud mixer.

Bare tool is only $150 for the mud mixer. Will be switching over myself at some point

[Borch]

2 hours ago, papadarv said:

 Yes it has power and great drill speed selection, but it also has a built in thermistor sensor that shuts the drill down when designers felt it reached a temperature that would cause a failure. Turns out that time is between 3 or 4 holes drilled in < 20" ice. Took about 5 min. to recover and stop again after 2 holes. 

 

I have heard several others with the same issue.  One reason I stayed away from that model. 

[eyeguy 54]

Not sure what model he has out in ND. Drilled plenty in 45 inches of ice. Cleared the shavings every foot. Maybe that was the trick to it not overheating?

Edited January 16, 2020 by eyeguy 54

[eyeguy 54]

Saw this online