Auger wont cut

[Lane-O]

Great site! So I have an 18yrold Eskimo Baracuda with the Turbo bottom assembly .It has always ran great but that Turbo is a Beast and quite agressive . Ive had to have the flites welded 3 times over the years were the flite meets the shaft and has never seemed to make any difference on cutting . However, the last time it was welded was close to the bottom and we ddint notice that the plastic gromet that centers the Spike was melting , sooo we just put it back in place

and centered the best we could and let the plastic cool. I used it a few times after that and it cut "Alright".....But.. now it bounces around like a four year old in  a bounc-house . So my question is, is it worth it to just put in a new Spike and some new blades ? Or should I just get a new Qantum 10" bottom?

 

 

 

 

[Rick]

Welcome to FM @Lane-O.

 

I'll send your duplicate thread to the Equipment forum.

 

How has you fishing been?

 

Someone here might know how to help you.

[Rick G]

Welcome to Fishing Minnesota Lane-O

Any pictures of where it broke?

Well being the shaft might be shot anyway, try welding the point back on, or weld a longer point or even cut the tip of a lag bolt and weld it in.... anything to get a grip so the blades can start to cut...  

[Lane-O]

Thanks Rick , I havnt really been out yet I tried a few week ago but it took for ever to get one hole tapped , that when I said heck with it and sent motor head in for a tune up and now I need to either order new blades and centering spike cutter for my existing bottom end or just order a new Quantum bottom ugg ... Ive ran a buddies new Eskimo shark with the Quantum blades, man those are smooth cutting 

[Chill62]

If it is bouncing after being welded to me that means something got too hot and is warped....Now is it the blades warped or something more its hard to say without seeing and watching it in action.  Why have you had to weld the fliting back on?  

 

I see a few routes you can do and you might or might not like my options. 

1. You can try chasing bunny trails and figuring it out with new blades and a tip.  I did this on my old 10" eskimo it was a lemon and everything was junk on it (20 years ago) and should have been replaced by the store but they kept "Fixing" it.  I'd start by watching it spin and make sure shaft isn't bent.  Anyone that welds knows you have to be careful to not get too much heat into an area especially an auger to prevent warping.  I'd start watching shaft then if it's true work way down to blades.
2. If you are looking at a new tip ($25-40) and a new set of blades ($40) to me without labor you are looking at $80 in parts not counting labor.  A new 10" should be about $125-140 new and I was looking at one yesterday for $70 used.  This time of year places are trying to get rid of their inventory and are able to do better deals than stickers on packages just offer them less and you'd be shocked with what they may accept.  

Personally I'd buy new and know that everything will be true and sharp.  Joys of having an eskimo is that you can run Eskimo, Strikemaster, and Ion on your power head.  Find the cheapest and put it on there.  Neighbor just bought a new Ion 10" for 125 with free shipping online.