Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If You  want access  to member only forums on FM, You will need to Sign-in or  Sign-Up now .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member.

  • Connect, BE BRAVE - We Share Fishing Reports & Outdoor Information Here


      Fishing Report Clubs - Make Your Own "Post Your Thoughts" - Leave YOUR mark, make each place you visit "a little better"!

      Join the Minnesota Fishing Report Club, where only club members see detailed info that is shared. CLICK HERE to join.

      Have Fun!!!

  • 0
Sign in to follow this  
Scott M

Winterizing, Summerizing, etc.

Question

Scott M

Hey Valv, Surface Tension, et al.,

Please post (and maybe pin at the top) some good tips for winterizing boats, and "summerizing" ice augers, as examples. That would be great for those who don't know, good reminders for those who do, and you never know what new trick you'll learn from someone. I thought of this as I start thinking about putting away the old ice auger. We've had some good times and cut some good holes. I hope I can run her a few more times this winter/spring.

For the auger: My plan is to run her dry, wipe down the whole unit, and add fuel stabilizer to whatever is left in my gas can. (Although I've heard that StaBil is only good for 90 days?)

Any other tips?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Recommended Posts

  • 0
Surface Tension

Putting the auger away for summer is easy.

You can go about it a few ways. Either way you should add a fuel stabilizer to non-oxygenated gas, then run the auger till that mixture gets into the carb.

Even is you plan on draining the gas out of the tank and running the engine till all that gas is gone there always some gas left so its better to have that little bit of gas treated with a stabilizer.

If you plan on leaving the gas in your tank then pull the air filter cover off the carb. While the auger is running a give it some throttle and spray a engine fogger into the carb. Do it in short bursts till the engine bogs a little. Then continue to spray till the engine quits. 2 strokes get there lubrication from the oil mixed in the gas. When that gas enters the carb it goes through the crank case first then through ports it pulled into the cylinder. That fogging you just did put a layer of protection in the crank bearing and cylinder walls. Your good go. If you'd like you can pull the spark plug and shoot a fogging agent into that, replace spark plug.

Another way is to store the auger with no gas. As stated earlier you should still have run non-oxygenated gas with a stabilizer through the system. Next drain the gas tank and start the auger, let run till it runs out of gas. After it quits choke the auger and run it again to try and get that last little bit of gas out. Remember that the fogging agent hasn't been run through the crank. You'll have to remove the air filter cover and spark plug. Spray the fogging agent into the carb(open the throttle) and slow pull the starter rope, do this a few times to try and get that into the crank, next spray through the spark plug hole while pulling the starter rope. Replace the spark plug. Your done. While you have that spark plug out look at the numbers on it and get yourself a new plug for next season. After you burn that fogging agent out, replace the spark plug.

4 strokes get the lube from the oil in the crank case.

Do the same gas treatment and run the auger. Fogging the crank isn't necessary so pull the spark plug and spray the fogging agent into the hole. Replace plug and drain and replace the oil while the engine is still warm.

If you like you can spray the auger blades down with WD-40 to prevent runst.

Another way to summerize your auger is to put it in the corner of the garage and hope for the best next winter. grin.gif Actually if you treat the gas and run the auger a few times during the summer then that isn't so bad. Starting the auger gets new lube into the crank and cylinder walls.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
harvey lee

I have always liked to put it away with some stabilizer and start it every month or so. This has always worked very well with every auger I have owned.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
DinkADunk

Adding stabilizer to old gas (older than 30 days) does no good. Add stabilizer to fresh gas when you buy it and it should be good for roughly a year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Eric Wettschreck

Quote:

Another way to summerize your auger is to put it in the corner of the garage and hope for the best next winter


Frank, I had no idea you were in my garage last July. grin.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
McGurk

Now that we are using Amsoil Sabre Pro in some of our 2-strokes, I think we need a little clarification on Stabil use with Sabre. I seem to remember reading here that the Oilman stated that the additives in Sabre are enough of a preservative for mixed gas. I also think he said that Stabil is both not required and not recommended if you are currently using Sabre. Please correct me if I am wrong.

As far as keeping the gas in the tank, I'd rather dump any mixed gas into a nearly full vehicle gas tank and pay for fresh gas in the fall instead of adding Stabil to keep old gas around. Or empty the tank into your mixed-gas gas can and use it for the chainsaw/weed whip/etc. in summer. We're talking a matter of less than a dollar of gas in the auger tank that we are trying to save (except for the mid-summer starters grin.gif).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
theoilman

Who has been reading my mind? I have just been preparing a "Lube Tip" for "Off Season Protection (2-stroke and 4-stroke engines)" that will be e-mailed to those who have communicated direct with me, but since it has been brought up, I will also post it here.

The additional question in this thread is concerning the use of Stabil. I do not know the storage capabilities of this product. AMSOIL does have Gasoline Stabilizer which gives up to 18 months protection (see below). However, most people find it is unnecessary when using Saber Professional in their 2-stroke machines. I have had reports from many people about engines being set aside with no preparation other than they had been using Saber Professional and they can start the next season just by cranking the engine - and easily. For best insurance use the stabilizer too.

If you would like to be added to my list to receive my "Lube-tips" direct (a couple of e-mails a month) drop me a note via my e-mail direct link at the bottom of this post requesting them.

--------------------------------------------

Lube Tip: Equipment Storage . (Both 2-stroke and 4-stroke)

Removed from this post by Don Dawson, click the link to go to my site to read it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Orlip

Quote:

You use just 1 ounce to 2.5 gallons of gasoline


Well thats great, If my tank is full I need 35 oz of stabilizer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
riverrat56

87.5 Gallon tank?

I just go with the leave the auger in corner and start it with some of the gas from the leaf blower a few times through out the winter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
harvey lee

I go through all the steps to help my motors get through the off season. It doesnt cost much at all and for what these toys cost why not give them all the protection you can.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
aprowl

how about a list for snowmobiles,used only one weekend this year,two not used at all...how should i summerize em......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Surface Tension

There is a thread in the sleding forum that goes into details about summarizing.

Open the hood and look to see if mice chewed up or nested in the foam rubber between the air box and hood.

Sleds that haven't been used for two years, IMO then need to be run. I'd drain all the gas and put it in my truck. Fill with fresh gas, treat it and then run the sled. Let it idle for 5 minutes. Watch the temps if you have liquid cooled. Running the engine gets oil back on the cylinder wall and bearings. Now pull the plugs and fog the cylinders while tuning the engine over. Replace the plugs. I put tape over exhaust to keep the mice out. I spray the muffler down with WD-40. Armor-all the seat and let it soak into the stitching then wipe down.

Grease all the zerks if you haven't done that. Remove the belt and lift the track off the ground.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Orlip

Quote:

87.5 Gallon tank?


Actually the specs from the factory say it holds 88

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Never Enough Time to Fish

Has anyone ever heard of fogging an outboard motor by running gas mixed with the fogging agent through the motor for 10 to 15 minutes? What type of fogging agent is used to do this? Does this do as good of a job as the traditional way of fogging the motor? Thanks.

Never Enough.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
geo17

i winterized my boat myself this year for the first time. i recently moved up from florida so not much to worry about freezing down there. everything went fine, until i moved the oil in my drain container and noticed some water that seperated from the oil. it wasn't an alarming amount but noticeable. is this normal?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Surface Tension

NETF, never heard of doing it by mixing the fogging agent into the gas. Going through the carb till the point that engine stalls ensures a heavy coat in the crank and its components.

geo, was the oil drained from the lower unit or 4 stroke motor oil. If you noticed it in the lower unit then is must have sat a long time, long enough to separate. At some time you'll want to have the seals replaced or pressure test the lower unit to see which seal is leaking and replace that one. I usually just replace all of them and since your in there replace the impeller too. If you continue to use the outboard with a slight leak then you should check it often.

Water in the crank, 4 stroke outboards run at low temps and are known to have some moister/condensation build up.

If heard that it can actually build up to the point where the oil level becomes high. That seems extreme to me and I'd never let it get to that point.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
geo17

it was from my two stroke lower unit. i also noticed the amount i put back in was more than i took out. engine runs great. no over smoking. i will take it in after winter and get that stuff checked out though. i used the boat about a week and a half before this so it didn;t sit that long.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
boatfixer

Quite a few years back, I believe OMC has some concoction combining 2+4 and fogging oil in the gas. It was intended for dealers, using a separate gas tank so you didn't store your gas with fogging oil. Not completely sure though. But I would still recommend to anyone to fog through the carbs and treat gas the conventional way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Scott M

Those are great winterizing tips for motors and summerizing tips for augers. How about tips for bringing your boat out of storage? I'm planning to grease up the bearing buddies, vacuum again, refill with fresh gas, top off the oil, and run the garden hose with ear muffs pretty soon. Anything else?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
JimBuck

Good idea da_chise on reviving this thread. Besides what you said. I go over the trailer with a wrench and make sure all bolts are fastened securely.....I had an incident happen last spring on the way to the lake for the first time...one of the bolts loosened up enough to break in half under pressure from exiting the Super America parking lot. Luckily it was only a right rear bolt leaving the prop and lower unit just 2 inches from certain disaster. 2 hours and 3 car jacks later we replaced the bolt, made it to the lake and caught our limit. Anyone else care to chime in on preventative maintenence for the upcoming season?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
hitthebricks

How about a 200 Merc opti with direct fuel and oil injection? What steps should I take to winterize it correctly? Also do I really need to treat the gas in the tank (30 gal.) and fill and treat the rest (another 30 gal.)?

Later HTB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
marine_man

Check out this thread:

Winterizing

With respect to treat the gas in the tank - if you don't fill the tank you run the risk of condensation forming in the tank from not being full. If you have water / fuel seperator it's not an issue. If you don't, well, then you might have to see how it goes in spring.

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Ed Carlson

2-stroke or 4-stoke I recommend using the New Sta-bill Blue in the mix all season, and for storage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Dano2

In Ricks winterizing tip #17."Open all hatches. Place an open bag or two of charcoal in the bilge and in any other enclosed areas. It won't hurt the opened area's either."

Why would one do this?

Just regular charcoal like Kingsford or whatever?

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
bhs91

3 questions, about how long should I run the motor to make sure things were treated(I am done for the year and will just back it into the water to run it awhile) and what about removing any line from the prop area. And should I put in new plugs every year??

Thanks,

BHS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Wildabeast

A spark plug question. Do you use a little anti-sieze on the spark plug threads when you replace them (aluminum heads)?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
marine_man

Charcoal - will absorb humidity under the cover

bhs91 - see reply on the Winterizing topic on the Boat & Motor Forum

Sparkplug question - anti seize can't hurt anything...

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
snoozebutton

2-stroke or 4-stoke I recommend using the New Sta-bill Blue in the mix all season, and for storage.

I didn't know they had the blue marine variety. I used the red in mine, will I be alright with that?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
marine_man

yes, just fine.

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Ed Carlson

Both the Red/Blue StaBil formulas are good products.

The new Blue is a lot better in many ways with the new rust protection and carb cleaners in it. I would recommend you try it, it has made a dramatic difference in how well my ice augers run and my boat...so I'm now completely sold on the Marine Blue formula StaBil.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Mr. 5 pounder
      I've been going up to the areas mentioned for 20 plus years now and ended up buying a cabin in the Bovey area. Looking to hear and share some fishing reports about the surrounding lakes. Never keep much besides some pesty northerns and panfish (which are plentiful) for the occasional lunch. So, I highly respect the area, but if you know the area at all, you will never be able to fish all its lakes in a lifetime... so some well informed fishing reports is always welcome. Again, I emphasize "smaller lakes," because the bigger ones (Jessie, Round, Wabana, etc) all have fishing reports available. Post if you're interested and lets get a good conversation going. 
    • ANYFISH2
      I would agree with the above answers, that the line of rivets are creating dirty water for you.  I would move to the left as well.  Also, I would guess you may need to lower the transducer some as well.  Get the transducer as low as you can without it making a large roostertail at speed.  If you have a good square or quality straight edge at home, place vertically along bottom of the hull, extending out from the stern.  The top of the straight edge should cover at least the bottom 2/3s of the transducer on the inside (motor side), maybe more if the pitch of the hull is greater.  Transducer should also have a slight downwards angle from transom. 2 more things, make sure the transducer is level(left to right) with a small level. Compare the level of the boat to the level of the transducer.  Boats don't always sit level on a trailer obviously. One thing to remember with side imaging is you beam going out towards the motor is often interfered with the outboard itself.  As you trim up the motor, that side will become clearer.
    • PRO-V
      That's great. I feel the same about mine.😁
    • Borch
      Well I don't have any inside info on a hot bite but have heard it's still a jig and minnow bite on the edge of flats in 7-12 of water.  If the wind is pounding into a flat I would recommend heading shallow and trolling cranks.  This would be a good option to at least find a spot to slow down and jig the edge once you've cover water and find fish.  I've done well on these flats all summer long if the wind is blowing into them.    Good luck!
    • Squirrelhawke
      this is what mine looks like
    • Borch
      I forgot about the speed issues with these transducers.   I also have a high speed dual frequency transducer mounted.  I run it as my primary and do a split screen when I want to see the side imaging.  Generally the side imaging works best under 6 mph with 2-3 mph being optimal.
    • h8go4s
      I agree you need to move it left to get away from the line of rivets. Then it's a matter of adjusting vertically and tilting it front to back/ up or down. The newer monster size SI ducers can be tough to get positioned right. That's why lots of guys run a second 2d ducer with a splitter cable which automatically switches in when the 2d signal from the SI ducer is lost. My boat is a Alumacraft Classic 165 tiller 50hp, top speed 29 mph. I was able to get position tweaked on it so I have SI, DI and 2d on plane, but it took a lot of adjusting. I resorted to mounting  a camera on a mini tripod and holding it over the transom to video the ducer underway. That helped, but still a PITA. Good luck.
    • Borch
      I would try moving it about 1-3 inches to the left.  It's sitting right behind a row of rivets which would cause turbulence and issues with readings.  You might also be picking up prop turbulence in that location that close to the centerline and on that side.  Seems the side imaging transducers are more sensitive for placement due to the issues your having and blocking the signal one side or the other.   The other side of the outboard could be a better option unless you have something else mounted there to help with prop turbulence. 
    • smurfy
      Awesome!! Looks a bit spoiled maybe!!!👍🤣
    • Hookmaster
      New 2020 1875 Pro Guide. Helix 12 Mega SI graph. Can't read bottom when up on plane. I was going to adjust the transducer and this is what I found. Isn't the first rule in transducer placement to put it where there is "clean", undisturbed water flow?? It is below the bottom of the boat, maybe too far. It's a side imaging transducer so I feel the riggers wanted it close to the center of the boat. Where have others placed a side imaging transducer and have it read bottom when up on plane? I don't think you can move it closer to the center line. If you move it to the left of it's current position, the is the power strake in the front 1/3 of the boat. Any help is appreciated!!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.