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carving decoys


EatSleepFish

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has anyone tried to carve their own spearing decoy? i looked all over the internet but couldnt find any info on it at all. if anyone has any info on how to carve decoys id like to give it a shot. thanks.

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There is a book called "benziejo" decoys(you can search it) that would be very useful for someone wanting to learn how to make decoys. It shows all the steps from start to finish.

I made my first decoy about 15 years ago. I had a lot of trial and error of how much lead and where to put the line ties to get them to swim right. If I would of had that book back then it would of made things alot simpler.

Here is a pic of some that I've made. The sunny in the front is one of the first ones I made, it just sets on a shelf now. The other one in the front is another of my older ones. I saw my biggest fish while using that one, that sets on the shelf now too.

DSCF1317.jpg

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I think most people use like a basswood to carve. If you do a search for Michigan spearing assoc. They used to have a detailed document on there website for how to carve own decoys.

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I have started to carve one out of basswood, I started with a 4"x 4 x 6" block and its still just a rough shape of what it will be and think took around a 1 1/2 hr of carving to get to that. But this is my first one so taking my time. The detail work and paint will take the longest, also you have to weight them down, test them in the water to see how they swim. So I would think take around probably 20hrs. I am not sure. I am a rookie carver.

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see i would rather buy a Bear Creek for 8.00... reason that i say that is becuase i dont have the time of day to do that stuff.

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A couple more I just made. I use mostly scrap pieces of 1x2 or 2x2. I spent most of yesterday on these two.

DSCF1321.jpg

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I bought a video from a customer of mine that was filmed for Prairie Public TV. Search for them, or "The Art Of Making Fish Decoys". It is a very good video that breaks the deak down very well. I paid 10.00 bucks for it and he thew in a piece of cedar to boot. He recomends ceader cuz it is fairly easy to carve and wont swell if it gets wet.

He also makes 25 to 30 deaks a DAY!! But he has many power tools.

I have the 800 number if any one wants it to order from Praire Public tv if you can't find the site.

Later,

Kenny

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Quote:

Pretty good work. Do you have any big red and white ones?


What do you consider big? I started two more sucker shaped ones which are 9". I am going to paint one of those red and white.

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how big of weight do you add. The decoys that i use dont have them, there is holes in them to load them with water, to sink.

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no, it's in the bottom. I cover the lead with bondo. The left one is almost ready for paint, just one more coat of bondo and some sanding.

DSCF1324.jpg

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looks like your having a good time and getting alot of decoys made. I dont have that time to be making them, so i get a sponsor to get decoys instead. tongue.gif

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Great Pic's on the weighting of the decoys. I weight mine the same way. I cover the hole with epoxy. Got my decoy carving info off of Michigan Darkhouse Association.

Just finished 2 and let my 11yr and 8 yr old do the painting. VERY interesting designs. They look very promising laugh.gif

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Have you guys ever tried creating some more hollow pockets in your decoys, sealing them off, and then minimizing the amount of lead you use? It seems to me like the closer to neutral bouyancy you come - the slower your fish should swim.

How do you decide where the weight goes with respect to the fins, and where to attach the line? I assume these are the key things that create the "swimming" action.

I've never tried to make any before, but I'd like to try it.

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You need to put the lead towards the front so it will swim forward. I put the fins into the lead hole for a couple reasons. The first is because it is easier to make the slot where the wood is thinner. And the second reason is the lead helps to keep them in place(same as the line tie). Unless you know exactly where to put the line tie all you need is one, but it is better to have multiple so you can fine tune how it swims.

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Do you have to make a slot in the wood to accept the metal fins in order to keep the wood from splitting? If so, how do you do that? What tools do you use?

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