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How to install fuel-water separator for kicker?


TSCTSC

Question

Going to install a T8 kicker soon. Have heard that a fuel water separator would be the best way to go in terms of fuel rigging in order not to affect main motor. Anyone know how it is done and where can I get parts. The dealers I have spoken to in MN so far are unaware of these issues. Only a WI dealer has mentioned it.

Thanks

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There is a large, national marine store that sells the stuff you need. One brand that is popular is Racor. With some models of this brand you get a see-through, plastic bowl so you can tell when there is water in it, then you drain it out. The one my dealer sells does the job but it looks like an oil filter so you can't see how much water it has filtered out. They are usually mounted under the splashwell area.

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I believe the biggest reason that the fuel water separator is recommended is because you get a fuel separator, and because most have two outlets - one for each motor. Some people have put a t fitting in between the fuel connection for the large and kicker motors and what happens is all the fuel is removed from which motor isn't running, causing starting issues when switching motors.

What needs to be done is use a fuel separator like you're proposing or to use a t fitting with a valve that you have to adjust every time you're going to use a different motor...

I would think any dealer would be able to order one... several companies make them, plus I believe most major motor manufacturers sell one...

marine_man

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The water seperator isn't a bad idea but as another person mentioned, the important thing to have is a valve allowing you to switch between motors. As it was explained to me, if you don't have a valve, your big motor will pull gas from the path of least resistance (your kicker motor fuel line) and when the gas is gone it will suck air. This can lean the fuel/oil mixture in two stroke motors and do very bad things.

I installed the valve for my T8 in about 30 minutes. I used a piece of aluminum angle iron to mount the valve and screwed the angle iron to the flat part of the boat in the backsplash area. I cut the main gas line and tee'd it to the main motor and then to the T8. If I get a chance I'll try to post a picture. I bought all the parts on line at Boat US very reasonably. Just make sure you use a thread compound rated for gasoline. The valve I bought is identical to the ones factory/dealer installed on many boats you see at the boat show.

My dealer was willing to sell me the parts and do the install but I wasn't in the mood to pony up more cash after buying the T8. On last thing, I've had the T8 for two years and I can't imagine fishing without it.

Shoot me an email if you'd like some specific part numbers from online stores. taber777 at yahoo . com

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Don't quote me, but the reason I believe a lot of people use the water fuel seperator is because you get the line directly from the tank, and likely has a built in anti siphon valve, so the kicker line won't siphon gas out of the large motor line and vice versa. That way you wouldn't need the valve.

If you decide to go without the separator you'll definitely need the valve...

marine_man

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I just had a 9.9 Pro Kicker added to my rig last spring.

All the dealer did was connect up an anti-siphon valve

between the two motors. That way I wouldn't be 5 miles out

when the Optimax shut down after I forgot to throw the

manual style valve. With the newer injected motors, you have to manually reprime the fuel system if you run out of gas (forget to throw valve switch). This could be anything

from a hassle to an outright emergency situation depending on conditions, weather, waves, etc. I would opt for an

anti-siphon set-up. Most dealers can set you up with

what you are gonna need parts-wise. I have not had any

problems with the set-up. I run the main,find a spot,

kill the main and fire up the kicker. Same thing when done with the kicker.....EASY laugh.gif

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Thanks. Who is your dealer and do you have any pics to show?

Thanks. I like the anti-siphon option better. I do not want to keep going to the back to throw that switch.

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Okay, now I am confused here...I just had this conversation with a fellow FMer.

Can someone help me out? I just added a new kicker to my boat. I have a water separator for my main fuel line located in the back. So, my main gas line comes from the separator. I placed a simple "T" into the line. Off of the "T" I have a line with bulb to the main motor and another line with bulb#2 to the kicker.

Is this correct?

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Rost,

There is a pretty good chance you'll have trouble this year... without the valve (or a t fitting with anti siphon fittings on both sides) what will happen is that the large or small motor (depending on which one is running) will siphon the gas out of the other motor over time, causing problems when you run the other motor (you'll have to the pump the primer bulb a lot, etc)

The advantadge the fuel seperator gives you is you can usualy put two outlets on it, on eof the large motor and one for the small motor, and they usually have a anti siphon valve on them to keep from sucking the gas from the other.

So, to head off any trouble either

A) Swap out the hose barbs on the t fitting (to the large and small motor) with anti siphon barb fittings

B) Install a T that has a built in Valve... this way you would have to manually turn the valve, depending on which motor you plan on using

C) Plumb in another fuel fitting into the fuel / water separator and make sure it has some sort of check valve / anti siphon valve in it

marine_man

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Sorry, no pics.. My boat is a Crestliner Sportfish.

Motors are 150 OptiMax and 9.9 Pro Kicker. I got the kicker

installed at Great American Marine in Bloomington.They are in the book and on the web.

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Wouldn't my two primer bulbs serve as anti cyphins? They are both less than 8 inches from the "t". Gasoline should not flow backwords through them? So the most gas that will be cyphined would be 8 inches through the line...

This is strange because my bud just added a T-8 and the dealership put a "t" in exactly the way I did. In fact his old boat was rigged the same way for years with no problems.

In the first post on this thread, TSC mentions that most MN dealerships weren't aware this. So how serious can this be?

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Well Rost... you've got me there I guess... the primer bulbs do have check valves in them, but if I recall correctly we still had problems with them... confused.gif

Since you've got it set up that way perhaps give it a try and report back on how it works, but I recall still having problems with running the other motor dry...

Sorry...

marine_man

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And I certainly could be wrong here...and I will know if this system works (or not) in a hurry. I will report back and let everyone know.

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