Arrows, and Broadheads

[KidWalleye]

Here's a new one.......I'm new to bow hunting and I have a bow but I need arrows and broadheads. I am not looking to spend a lot but I also don't want junk. I need a middle of the road set up. What would anyone recommend? Thanks for the help. Kid

Also what is K.E. How come most deer hunters I talk to use climbers and not ladder stands. I have a ladder stand with a large platform, and was thinking of tying a few branches to the ladder to break up the outlines.

[chucker34]

Hey KidWalleye. Welcome to bow hunting. This was my first year and I took two does. What a rush. I don't think you could go wrong with muzys - either 3 or 4 blades and whatever weight you'd like. I personally like the 100gr. Anywhoo, I believe KE stands for kinetic energy. As for ladder stands, I think most people like climbers because they're more portable and they can move to different spots more easily. I took one deer out of my ladder stand this year and one out of a pop-up blind. I think the key in both instances is leaving them out for a little while to let the deer grow used to them as part of their natural environment. With climbers or hang-ons, you don't have to take that precaution. But it's all relative. I know people who have made a big commotion putting up a ladder stand and taken a deer out of it hours later.

[Powerstroke]

The Gold Tip brand of arrows are pretty basic for the newbie. You can get a half dozen for around $40. DOn't forget target tips. You won't want to shoot broadheads all the time, or even at first for that matter.

Don't shy away from the GT arrows cause they are entry level. I shot my first bow deer with them this year and they performed very well. I use the Magnus Stinger broadhead. It is a great cut-on-contact broadhead with 2 large blades and 2 bleeder blades.

Lots of things matter on how your bow shoots and how much poundage you draw. If you provide that info we can help you more.

[Stratosman]

Hard to beat Easton's arrows, I would go to a place that will set you up with the proper arrow spine for bow draw weight. For the money obviously aluminum is the way to go, and to be honest with you until this past season I shot aluminum for 15 years with no problems, 2413 Superlites, a little slower, but better K.E. As far as broadheads, muzzy are the way to go, I like the 4 blade 90 grainers unfortunately they didn't fly well with my carbons so I had to switch to Rocket with a smaller profile head, oh well. Still did the job. You don't need to spend a fortune on these items to find something that will work for you...

As far as stand, I like hang-on portables, but if you cant swing buying a half a dozen stands or more and all the spikes, then a climber might be the way to go.. I just prefer setting up in areas that I know that deer use ahead of time, that way I can sneak in and out during the season, rotating between stands as much as possible without making alot of racket or carrying all that extra stuff. But to each his own, you will develop you own style.

[winona walleye]

i agree with stratos as far as the arrows go, faster arrows are not always the answer especially with new shooters who may hit a shoulder and nned the extra ke for penetration, as far as broadheads go muzzy does make the best broadhead for penetration but the new grim reapers cut a seroius hole in a deer good luck kid

tim (ww)

[Gus]

I'd go with a carbon arrow of really any brand. There really are not any bad ones out there. Price will be your picking point. Powerstroke, don't rub off Gold Tips just as entry level arrows. Many many serious archers really like gold tips. Myself, I shoot Beaman ICS Hunters and have great luck with them. If you shoot a wisker bisket rest, try to pick an arrow with a smooth finish. Some of the more grainy looking or camo painted arrows can make some noise when drawing through a bisket. Beaman ICS hunters are very nice for this purpose, just don't get the camo painted ones. You will want to go someplace that will know what spine is ok for your setup and they will cut them to length for you.

Other's pretty much summed up the ladder/vs climber thing. If you have private land and the means to put up ladder stands they are great. I hunt out of ladders when on private property. When on public property you almost always need to take your stand with you when you leave so a climber or hang on would be a better choice. Some trees don't work well with climbing stands so just be aware of that. You need a pretty straight limbless tree to use a climber in. Sometimes tree diameter matters also. I have ladder, climber, and hang on stands. I use them all when conditions dictate.

[KidWalleye]

Thanks alot for responding guys. I did buy the 3 blade 100 gr Muzzy's. My draw weight is 60 lbs. I dropped my bow off at a place in Burnsville off Cliff. They are putting a new string on it. Also the manager said he would walk me through a few basics when I pick it up. Funny thing is I decide to get into this pretty early in the off season so almost everything you need to get started is on sale. Also I think I will take a look at a climber. I do have private land to hunt but I think you guys are right about being able to move. Maybe put my ladder stand in the "spot" and if they aren't there use the climber to move around. Are the climbers real hard to use? And how high do you guys usually go. Thanks again for the info. Kid

[chucker34]

So what kind of bow did you end up getting?

Also, have you ever considered a pop-up or hub style blind? There are many good ones out there for under $100 that fold up and fit in a backpack. I have a an Ameristep Doghouse I bought on clearance for $50. Blinds are great if you can brush them in and leave them out on private land for a few weeks before hunting for the first time. It's a breeze to climb into one right after work for the last few hours of daylight, especially if you set it up on a field edge. I've had deer within 10-15 yards of my blind this year. I'm no expert but the keys were brushing it in/concealing it and proper scent/wind control. Planning on getting a little bigger nicer one for next year but will keep using the doghouse too.

[Powerstroke]

I didn't mean to call Gold Tip arrows entry level, but as far as picking a first set I mean t staying in the cheaper realm of arrows without sacrificing quality. I used a set of Easton Epics this year and didn't really care for the quality. I actually broke 3 of them. The GT's have preformed much better.

As far as stands are concerned, I prefer a hang-on stand with a good set of lightweight treesteps. I don't like climbers cause I hunt in areas where trees aren't straight and they have branches. Rather than prune all the branches below me I can climb a tree and hang my stand in the brush for natural conceilment. Trim as needed.

[Gus]

Quote:

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As far as stands are concerned, I prefer a hang-on stand with a good set of lightweight treesteps. I don't like climbers cause I hunt in areas where trees aren't straight and they have branches. Rather than prune all the branches below me I can climb a tree and hang my stand in the brush for natural conceilment. Trim as needed.

---

That is good advise, Conceilment is very important to a bowhunter. I've learned my lesson..

[archerystud]

It sounds like you are set for arrows and broadheads. I wouldn't be too concerned about kinetic energy if you are shooting 60 lbs. for whitetails. You should be fine. I shoot 63 lbs. and the only times I haven't gotten a clean pass through is when I hit the shoulder joint on the far side of the deer.

One note on stands. I prefer the hang on stands. I used to use a climber but on those real cold mornings it seemed to make too much noise as I tried to go up the tree.

I prefer to hang my stands and leave them for a week (on private property) and then go hunt them.

Just my $.02 worth.

[KidWalleye]

This is what I dig about this site. People are always willing to help out. I think I will break down and buy a hang on or climber. They are pretty cheap right now. Now I have to try and convince my wife that I "NEED" another stand. I have decided to try the Beman ICS Hunter 400 Arrows. My bow is the PSE stradic Flyte, it's about 7 years old and was a pretty good one when my old man bought it. It's been shot maybe 10 times so it is in great shape. Good enough to get started anyways. Thanks again, and if anyone has any pointers I would appreciate it. Also is it better to practice from my stand in the back yard or from the ground? I suppose both would be smart. KID

[paceman]

I would practice ont the ground until you are quite confident that your bow is "sighted in" and then I would definetly pratice from a stand.

[blue gill guy]

i would suggest some carbon xpress with some montec G5 broadheads they're not junk and, they're not going to suck your wallet dry hope ive been helpful.

[TomBow]

Get ready to be addicted because bowhunting is a blast. There are loads of good broadheads and arrows on the market. You should be happy with what you've got. But practice with the broadheads before you try to shoot a deer with them to make sure that the broadheads will fly straight and not plane. Put the broadheads on the arrow and spin them on the tip on a flat surface such as a table top. Watch the arrow closely right above the insert where the broadhead attaches to the arrow. If there is any wobble in the shaft when you spin it fast, try a different broadhead on that arrow. Sometimes the insert get glued in NOT straight. If the broadhead is not straight in line with the arrow, it may wind-plane (veer off course) when you shoot. Practice all you can but make it good practice. If you start to get tired from shooting you're shooting form may suffer so give it a rest.

As said above, get dialed in shooting on the ground, then practice from a stand before hitting the woods. Make sure you have good form when shooting from a stand. Good form means having a good "T" shape between your back and your shoulders (the top of the T is an imaginary line across your shoulders) so you won't shoot high when shooting from a tree stand. Try this: When you practice from the stand, draw your bow while standing up right, just like you would when shooting from ground level, then bend at the waist, keeping your back straight until your pin is on the target. Some shooters lower their bow arm when shooting from a stand and this causes them to shoot high.

Bowhunting rocks, man!

[Rolly22]

If you'd like to get an idea of what your arrow speed and kinetic energy are, try this link:http://bucklemke.com/ke/ke.php

If the moderator doesn't allow it, I found it on the Mathews website forums.

Rolly

[Royce Aardahl]

The ICS 400 is a great shaft. I tip mine with Wasp Jackhammer 1 1/4 inch cut 75 grain expandables. Very deady and you won't cut your fingers or string accidentaly.

[KidWalleye]

Thanks for the info guys. I like hearing all the different ideas. Keep em coming. Hopefully I will get my bow back this week, so I can start shooting. Kid.

[cliffy]

Kid:

I am in the same boat as you. I recently bought a bow and am learing new stuff everyday. This site has been awesome. I would also suggest checking out the Matthews forums as well as ArcheryTalk. I have learned a lot from those sites as well...people are very friendly....no bashing of brands of bows..etc.

I have been using Gold Tip Carbon arrows (XT Hunter 5575)....they are alright but I have noticed one problem. The inserts dont hold very well. I am shoting 3-blade 100 muzzys into a yellow jacket broadhead target....and if I dont pull them out slowly...yupper, the insert and broadhead get stuck inside. I have lost three so far...the guy at the local sport shop said that is a common problem with GTs.

Good luck

Cliffy

[Rolly22]

What do you have them glued in with? You may have to use a two part epoxy?

Rolly

[cliffy]

That is a good question. I dont know. I assumed they are glued in...but dont know for sure. I bought and had the arrows cut to length at the local sporting goods store. I assumed they glued them in. Could they just be press fitted? I bought some two part epoxy last night and fixed the three that I lost.

[TomBow]

For about the last year I've been putting my own arrows together and did alot of research. The reason that inserts don't stay in may be because the shaft is not properly prepped before the inserts are glued in. When the shaft is cut, dust contaminates the shaft and compromises the glue bond between the shaft and the insert. I purchase raw shafts and have them cut to length, then take them home and clean the insert end of the shaft on the inside and out with Acetone on a Q-tip until it comes out clean (no black carbon dust). Then I let the shaft dry. I use regular Super Glue Gel (for inserts and fletchings) that you can get just about anywhere (cheaper than most "archery" glues), put the glue on the insert, spreading it thinly, then put the insert into the shaft and spin it a few times to get good glue coverage all the way around as I spin the insert, wipe off the excess glue when the insert is almost fully inserted, then push the insert the rest of the way in by pushing the shaft down on a flat surface. I have gotten great results, the inserts are in straight almost 100% of the time and they don't ever come out. I have purchased arrows before from bow-pro shops and Cabela's and usually ended up with about 7-8 out of the dozen that had straight inserts. Insert straightness, perfectly lined up centered in the arrow shaft, is extremely important to broadhead flight, especially when using fixed blades. Hope this helps.

[KidWalleye]

Tom Bow, What do you cut them with? When I do get fitted with my new arrows I will cut and put my own together too. Is there a special cutter to get a good edge? Something similar to a copper tubing cutter? Thanks, Kid

[cliffy]

TomBow: Thanks for the helpful hints.

Kid: If you are talking about Carbon arrows, I think you need some type of high speed saw. I am sure others will know for sure....

Cliff

[TomBow]

KidWalleye--Yup, cliffy hit it right on the head, a special high speed saw is needed to cut the carbon shafts. Most places that you can purchase raw shafts have the proper saw, a high speed power saw which will cut the shaft without splintering the carbon fibers. When I purchased raw shafts at Cabelas, I had them cut them to the proper length and told them NOT to put in the inserts since I would be doing that myself. If you decide to go this way, purchasing raw shafts yourself, just ask whoever you buy them from to cut them to your required length. I have a device produced by G5 outdoors which I use to flatten the end of the arrow shaft prior to gluing in the inserts. This device "sands" the end of the shaft so that it ends up perfectly flat and square to the shaft. This makes it much easier to insert the inserts perfectly in line with the shaft. I'll have to get back to you with the name of this unit.

[Rolly22]

I bought a mini-chop saw from Harbor Freight that works great. It cuts at 7800 r.p.m.'s and no need to sand after the cut. I think it was only around $30.

Rolly