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jifffy auger problems


fast40m

Question

I have had a jiffy model 30 for 5 years. It has been to the shop more than to the lake. I found out today that if I cover most of the holes by the recoil, It runs like it should. Is there a fix for this? Can I tape over the holes without hurting the engine? Has anyone had this type of problem?

Thank You

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Do not cover those holes! That is the air intake for the cooling air for the cylinder. It sounds like you have either a gov. problem or the gasket between the carb and the engine is leaking. It could even be a problem with one of the crankshaft end seals. Namely the one under the pull start.

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Possible Choke problems? Try playing with that and it might help. Last year mine was running hot and rich, I played with the choke a bit and it runs like a dream now.

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Try running some seafoam through it, it will run like crap while your doing it but when you get it through get some fresh gas and try running it then. I had to do that this season and mine runs like a champ again.

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I picked up a 3hp Jiffy stealth 9in last year and have had a hard time getting it running. It runs like a champ when it's warm. But when it's not, it's almost impossible to start and won't stay running. I had it in the shop and everything looks good, what do I need to do to improve it's preformance when the block is cold?

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i have the 2hp stealth and have the same problem i just let it run until the choke is all the way off then it works great, takes a little while but its better than it dying half way through the hole

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I also have the 2 hp Jiffy Legend Lighting and for some reason it leaks gas. I haven't been able to figure out were the leak is. It starts well on the first pull with the choke all the way on. If it doesn't start on the first pull I move the choke to the 1?2 position and it seems to start better than leaving it on full choke. Any ideas on the leak that I am experiencing??

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If the feul check diaphram is not working properly, it will allow fuel to run into the carb, especially on choke. I have never heard of a Jiffy starting on the first pull. Even a properly tuned one will take at least two or three pulls to get them started. The new Jiffy's are very cold blooded. Turn the idle/low speed mixture screw out a quarter turn at a time, and you should find a happy spot where it will start and run. I wish I had time to get you guys all together with you augers. I could solve your problems in one swoop. Apparently you don't have a small engine repair guy in your area that knows how to tune a 2 stroke. confused.gif

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I have a Jiffy Model 30 3HP auger and it works great. It starts on the first pull or dang near the first pull everytime. But it didn't come out of the box that way. There are two screws you can adjust for the low and high idle. Just by simply playing with these screws you can fine tune your engine in little time. I'm not saying its a for sure fix in your situation but definately worth trying. Simply get the auger started, and then while its running turn the screws a little at a time and see how the motor reacts. Try running the auger to see how fast it spins at full throttle...adjust the screws to increase or decrease its speed. Hopefully you're able to find the right idle speed and the right augering speed by playing with the screws.

This is something you can do on your own and maybe save you a trip to the small engine shop. I have helped friends that thought there jiffy's were junk and now they think they're great. I hope it works for you and others whose Jiffy is not running quite right.

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I have the legend 30 3hp also. When I first got the thing about 7 years ago I had a problem getting it to keep running when I first started it. I was starting it exactly how the instructions told me to by using the choke. I have found that not using the choke works muck better. I just prime it and hold the throtle down when starting. It starts 2nd pull everytime and can idle great with no messing with the choke at all. Good luck!

LovenLifeGuy

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My buddy has the Stealth he bought last year. It never ran right last year so he brought it back and they gave him a new one. Well this year it was doing the same thing i told him to bring it back and get something else. He is getting pissed but he say's he really likes the 5 blades for going through old holes in his shack. Why would you have to screw around with the tuneing screws on something right out of box?

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Hey Big DS, Would you be willing to fix this dang thing? Name your price. I just wanna have a good auger.

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Well Swalleyj lots of motors don't run perfect right out of the box because they are setup in the manufacturers building where temps are not what they are in different parts of the country and even elevation changes can make a difference . I think a couple of lads nailed it right on here as I too found I had to tweak my highspeed jet when I got mine and on the 3hp I believe its on the left and has an H above it . For mine on a cold day she gets three pumps on the primer and once she fires up the choke gets moved to half then completely off before I start drilling . You will find a longer warm up is needed the newer your auger is . It takes alot of holes to break these buggers in and some of the old ones guys pump the primer till the gas comes out to fire them up but the new ones don't seem that way . I also make sure my fuel is stabilized always as this keeps alot of the probs caused by varnishing from happening .I also never go anywhere without a plug wrench and screw driver while running any two stroke .

TD

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Quote:

Why would you have to screw around with the tuneing screws on something right out of box?


To answer that question...Last year Strikemaster had to sell off a bunch of brand new augers that did not meet the EPA standards due to the fact that they did not have a compression release. The EPA has a standard for start-up emissions and running emissioins on the 2 stroke motors on new augers and chainsaws! crazy.gif That is why a little tuning is in order "right out of the box" to get the 2 pull start. grin.gif The are tuned to run lean (less gas more air) which causes what would be called "cold blooded".

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I'll be opening my first brand new auger sometime tomorrow morning, I've always had used ones in the past. My thoughts on the needing to tune something right out of the box are, Would the factory necessarily start a new auger at all before they boxed it and shipped it? I would think that if they filled it with gas and oil and did a test run they remaining gas and oil would leak in the box during shiping/storage and could be dangerous with the gas fumes. I'd think that the manufacturers would have a set, strict standard in assembly of the augers to ensure that they ran out of the box but it's impossible to tune them exactly without running the engine but with certain settings/adjustments they could get them all close. Just some thoughts.

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What's the protocol on breaking in a new auger? I know I recently viewed a post that answered this question and I can't find it.

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I don't know how to break one in because all the one's I've had have been already broken in. I'll make a new post and see if more people will see it.

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I believe the Techumseh factory high and low idle speeds are set to meet EPA standards at 32 degrees. That is why a lot of folks who have purchased a 3 H.P. unit have cold start problems. Fine tune both the high and low settings (as mentioned above) at temperatures that are more in line with the temperatures you will be using the auger in...maybe in the 10 to 20 degree range. Most problems on the 3 H.P. motor experienced right out of the box are just quick carb adjustments. It is not a Jiffy or StrikeMaster specific problem and very quick to fix (as mentioned above.) Also...folks need to remember (as mentioned above) that the 3 H.P. Techumseh is a legitimate power house requiring more warm up time before it reaches its optimum performance levels. The 2 H.P. Techumseh is quick to start and quick to reach optimum power output. Hope this helps.

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BIG DS and others...I have a Jiffy legend, model 31,3hp, thats about 4-5 years old. Mine has/had those stupid red caps on the adjustment screws. Like others have posted it hasn't run right, and been to the shop twice. (not this year) It still doesn't idle real good,and half the time it doesn't go into the high speed till it's really warm. Here's the thing I managed to break the toggle switch off yesterday, so I was fixing that today, and decided to try to tweak it, to get it to run right. Well it wasn't so I call the small engine shop where I got the switch, and he told me that that the low speed adjustment was closest to the engine, and that should be turned 1 1/2 turns, and the high speed 1 turn. Does this sound right??? Also does he mean to turn them in all the way, then back it out that far? I wish I was closer to Mankato so Big D could fix mine as well! grin.gif Like everyone I just want this to rip through the ice instead on dying between holes.

Thanks guys.

Oh tonight I just put in new plug, and gas but haven't tried it again.

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  • 'we have more fun' FishingMN Creators

cybermuskie, turn the mixtures screws in till they are lightly(not tight) seated and then count your turns out.

You can adjust your low speed mixture at home but to tweak the high speed mixture you'll need to test it under a load.

With most 2 stroke engines I like to start with a rich mixture and make my adjustments toward leaning it out. When I hit peak RPMs, I'll turn the mixture screw back out a hair(around 1/4 turn) so I'm not running to lean.

Now its possible to have and auger that idles and runs great at higher RPMs but when cutting a holes the clutch starts to slip. Thats an indication your high speed mixture needs adjustment even though it runs good, your just not getting the RPMs to lock in the clutch.

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Well after setting my high and low speed adjustment screws the way the guy told me on the phone, my auger wouldn't even idle. So then I thought maybe he got them backwards. So I turned my low speed 1 turn, and I finally got it to idle. Does anybody know if the high speed is about 1 1/2 turns? I know I won't know til there is a load on, but I would like to be in the ballpark! Also to tweak it to run better, which way do you turn it? Back in? Out? I never did real good in shop class! grin.gif

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  • 'we have more fun' FishingMN Creators

Its just one of those things your ear gets tuned to but I'll try and discribe it. Make very small adjustments(1/8th turn).

Your better off running on the rich side. For one it takes more gas to start a cold engine. Leaning the idle mixture down will only make it hard starting.

Turn the idle mixture screw out till the engine idle starts to slow down, note that position then turn the screw in till it starts to run smooth. Now turn the screw out till it the RPMs just start to come down, leave it there for now.

Like I said earlier you need to put a load on the engine to get the high speed mixture correct but for now get it to build RPMs nicely without a load. When you hit the throttle it should wind up right away with no hesitation, no bog and no popping. If it bogs your most likely to rich, if it pops your to lean. If its smoking like crazy with hesitation then eventually builds RPMs its too rich. Turning the mixture screws in(clockwise will lean it and of coarse out(counterclockwise will richen the mixture. I like to come in from a rich mix and hit top RPMs then back it out till it starts to drop.

Now get it on the ice and test drill. All your adjustments will be with the high speed mixture screw. When you get to where it should be you'll have no bog, popping or hesitation. You'll hear the governor kick in as you put more load to the engine almost like its shifting gears.

Remember its better to be rich then lean. The engine will last longer and start better when properly adjusted carb and for heaven sakes, its a 2 stroke so its going to smoke. grin.gif

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Thanks Frank!

I will see what damage I can do tomorrow! grin.gif

I sure wish that "Big Lake" of yours would freeze over. My friend is in Duluth, and we are itchin' for some looper action. Also, then I only need the spud!

Thanks again!

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