• GUESTS

    If You  want access  to member only forums on FM, You will need to Sign-in or  Sign-Up now .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member.

  • WE CREATE LONG TERM, MEANINGFUL RELATIONSHIPS IN HERE ... PLEASE JOIN US.

    You know what we all love...

    RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE
    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

Sign in to follow this  
justin

training shock collors

Recommended Posts

justin

I need to get a collor for my lab any ideas as to what kind would work the best? I will be using my lab for phesants, grouse, and somtimes ducks. she is a year old and works well and is bird trained, however, I need one to finish her training and every store tells me something different.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
FISHER ED

In my opinion, the best collar for the $ is the DT Systems EDT100. Nothing fancy, just nick and constant shock with 20 settings. Fully waterproof collar and water resistant control both with rechargeable batteries. Unless you are thinking of running 2 dogs or want a beeper I'd go this route. Comes with the standard 1 year full warranty and then DT's lifetime warranty on defects (you pay labor, they pay for parts). You shouldn't have to pay anymore than $185 for this collar. Feel free to e-mail me at edjwendt(at)juno(dot)com if you have any other questions. Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
irvingdog

I can give you dozens of reasons why TriTronics is the only way to go, but I'll just say this:
Buy right, and you'll only buy once. Best warrantee, incomperable service, all of the right features, etc. Go to GameFair this fall. See what EVERYONE is using. There is a reason.

Even some "pro's" that endorse other collars wind up using TriTronics when training their own dogs..............

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
setterguy

No disrespect Irving dog but I will disagree. I had used Tri Tronics for years. Then Dogtra came out and I was able to use one of thier collars for a while, well that was 6 years ago and I haven't switched back yet. I liked my TT, it was solid unit that did everything I asked, its just my dogtra does more for the same money. I was happy with TT for their service, I don't have anything to report about Dogtras service, because I haven't had to use them since I started using the product. I will agree with Irving dog in the fact that you should go to the game fair and look at all the products out there, find a collar that has the features that you need, compare price and then make your decision. You won't be sorry with either collar, just know that there are options.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
irvingdog

No disrespect felt......

Two "off the top" reasons,

1) Trickle charger. Leave a Dogtra on the charger indefinitely, and Bye-bye battery. Charge for to short a period of time and Bye-bye battery.

2) Rheostat vs Click intensity settings. Always be consistent with your level of correction. Click 1,2,3,etc... and there is never a question. And rheostat is VERY easy to bump out of place.

To busy to list more right now......

[This message has been edited by irvingdog (edited 07-21-2004).]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Long Gray Line

Couple of things about the TT. I had a Sport 50 for a couple of years and was completely happy with it. The selector could be bumped and changed, just like the rheostat type. A couple of times I was trying to correct my dog and the wheel had been ticked over to 0 (I almost never had to go above a 1 with her). The other thing is that with the Sport 50/60, the on/off of the collar is done at the the controller, the collar has to always be using a trickle charge to be able to sense the on/off signal from the controller. That means the collar will go dead just sitting on the shelf. I called TT on this because the collar seemed to need charging way too often, I couldn't just pick it up off the shelf and expect it to have a charge. They said that was just the way the collar unit worked and that I should put it on a charger about every 2 weeks or so to keep it ready. I needed to switch to a 2 dog unit and opted for the Dogtra. The comparable unit for Tri-Tronics only has continuous, the Dogtra has momentary & continuous and switching dogs is a simple toggle switch. The Dogtra also has a delayed switch (you have to hold it down to turn the unit on/off, prevents the dog from accidently doing it) on the collar so it won't drain sitting on the shelf like the TT. Don't get me wrong, the Tri-Tronics 50/60 is a fine unit. Small controller, dependable in the field and water, easy to use. It has drawbacks like they all do. Do your homework and learn whatever unit you get.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Benny

I may be mistaken here, but I think TT fixed the always on collar.The new TT 50's and 60's have the switch on the collar as well now.

I have heard the TT collars were draining down often, my trainer recamends the Dogtra.
I heard good things about the DT systems as well.

Benny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
justin

thanks for all the info guys I like hearing the good and bad from people who use them and are not selling them so thanks again

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jlm

I asked this same question awhile back and got about the same response. Everyone has their preference I guess. I opted for a Dogtra system. The battery will NOT go dead or get ruined with over charging or undercharging. It specifically states that in the charging insructions. What I like is the small collar and control transmitter. It can fit in your pocket or on a lanyard. It has planty of range. What I really like is the vibrating collar which can be used as a warning prior to actual shock. I have rarely had to correct the dog with stimulation, the vibration alone does the trick. What ever you get, you will be happy. They are very helpful to reinforce training techniques!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Bushwacker

I am also a Dogtra guy. I have the 1200 NCP and absolutely love it. Like JLM stated, the pager feature is all I need 90% of the time for my dog. I also use the pager to keep her quartering close. I have never had any problem with the rheostatic dial moving on me. My trainer recommended the collar to me and I would recommend the collar to anyone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Curly

I just purchased a collar for my 15 month old black lab, I have not had it on her yet. Anyone have any advice for me on starting her out with it? I have one with momentary, constant and sound.

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Walleye Wegs

I am a TT guy. Classic 70s is a great unit. Trickle charge just plug it in and leave it, 6 settings a tone button, it is really all a guy needs. It has been awsome I am really happy with it.

------------------
WW
Lakes and Lures Guide Service
218 766 2933

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Perch Jerker

Had a TT for years as they were the 'gold standard' in training collars. It worked very well with our english pointer and it still works to this day. However, when it was time to get another collar because of different applications (lab = water work, english pointer = upland only) I looked at what was right for me and went with the Dogtra 1200NC. Collar = Small, lightweight, no antenna. Transmitter = Small, lightweight, variable power levels controlled from transmitter.

Weigh your options and choose the best collar to suit YOUR needs. Also, pay a little more now for quality (all day batteries in cold winters, components that can handle harsh conditions, etc) and you won't regret it.

PJ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
WALLEYENUTZ

START OUT SLOWLY. DO NOT OVER SHOCK YOUR DOG!

My advice. I've seen dogs that have been over shocked and they get real timid and confused at times.

Start on the lowest setting and move upwards until the dog responds.

------------------
Rip Lips

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
irvingdog

For several weeks, have the dog wear the collar while playing. Fun stuff only. Get it used to the idea that the collar = fun.

Only train with the lowest level of correction needed to get the job done. Take your time and realize that the only thing E-collars do is reinforce understood commands. NOTHING MORE!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jlm

Idog is right on the money! I will also say a couple more things. This is the first time I have ever used an e-collar when training a dog. They are helpful, no question. On the other hand, they can create some other problems as well so it is vey important to limit the use. Here is one example that happened to me. I have a young lab that is absolutely awesome. He is very intelligent and picks up on things very quickly. One thing that I wanted to use the collar for is to get him to heel with the dummy because he would always drop it by my side or a little behind me rather than holding it at heel until I took it from him. I began with a low setting and tried to get him to heel quickly with avoidance stimulation. He is doing great now but initially, he became scare of the dummy. He thought it was the dummy which was stimulating him. He would run up for a retrieve and would dink around with it until he could just grab the corner or the throwing handle. He would then drop it on the way back. The collar created a worse problem than when I stated. I realize this was probably my fault because I did not get him use to the collar enough to start with. My philosophy now is to only use the collar when it is absolutely needed. I rely on good old fashion training techniques and rewards for the rest! Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gspman

The which brand of e-collar question/debate gets beaten to death on every birddog msg board out there. Generally Tri-tronics, Dogtra, and DT are favored and Innoteks and the rest are usually vilified.

Tri-tronics is generally considered the most bullet proof, but are spendy and have less of the high tech features like vibrate and tone. Dogtra and DT give more features for the buck. I don't think you could go wrong with either of those 3. I personally use Tritronics but am looking hard at the other 2 as I need another collar since I now have 2 dogs.

Also don't base your decision on what the big name trainers (like Hickox and Dokken) use because they are getting paid to use that equipment and probably have multiple units handy in case one unit dies.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
setterguy

It just goes to show you, dog guys do it better. This is one of the few forums that people can disagree and still have intelligent things to add to a discussion. Now if the rest of the forums would follow our lead we would have one heck of a site!
Bravo to us!

If you coulnd't tell my tounge is firmly planted in my cheek. wink.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Wanderer
      My recollection of Sylvia is it being a nice, clean looking lake that would have nice views.  Bass were plentiful when I last fished it but ran pretty small on the weedlines.  You had to fish the slop to get better sized bass.  Couldn’t tell you a thing about walleyes there. I agree with Tom, Clearwater is a more dynamic fishery.
    • Wanderer
      We had to cut the hooks on one of my fish this year.  Caught on a Cisco Kid, 2 of 3 sets of trebles in the fish.  Just by how they were twisted, the leverage made removal by pulling very difficult and the fish would thrash when I attempted to work them out.  Made the decision pretty easy to cut the hooks. I’m honestly considering going barbless on everything.  Half the time the lure shakes free in the net anyway so the pressure is what keeps them buttoned until netted.  The plus is if one of us gets one in the hand when working on a netted fish, it won’t hurt so bad getting it out!
    • Wanderer
      Thanks for the feedback.   We have the time from hookset to release pretty short I think.  I read earlier this spring the average fight these days lasts 90 seconds or less.  I’ll admit I was amazed to hear that but after a half dozen muskies that have come to net this year, that’s no bull.  We usually have em netted on the first pass by the boat.  My 48 inch net allows one to do all the handling in the water while the other gets the bump board laid out and phone ready for a pic. A quick measure and quick pics and back in the water they go. Thats about as much as we can do.  70 degrees is lower than I expected to hear.  We were seeing those temps on opening weekend in Ontario.  We didn’t like seeing 80 last Friday on Leech.
    • delcecchi
      What do you think of the "cut the hooks" method of dealing with Muskies?   Small bolt cutters to make the process fast.   Just wondering.  
    • guideman
      Typically temps over 70 degrees are considered dangerous for handling Muskies. The length of the fight and the time you take handling the fish will make a difference. That is one of the reasons we use heavy line and big rods, you don't want to battle the fish to the death. Skip photos on smaller fish and remove the hooks with the fish in the net, in the water, not on the bottom of the boat. "Ace"   "It's just fishing man"  
    • Tom Sawyer
      Sylvia would have been my 1st choice, until it recently was discovered to have Stary Stonewart. Pretty devastating invasive. I'd bet Clearwater holds a state record large mouth bass. It also has strong walleye year classes.
    • Wanderer
      I was able to get back out on Leech last Friday the 13th.  Had to take a day off work to get some fishin’ in! This time was strictly for muskies but bass and pike showed themselves anyway. 🙂  The morning waves were still rolling from either the night or Thursday and the lake was rougher  than expected at 6 am.  The forecast said 0-5 and eventually the wind did calm from the northwest, switch, and then proceed from the southwest.  The effect for us was basically almost a 180 degree switch while we were out there and we didn’t see any fish of any size after that.  I think the switch was complete by roughly 1 pm. The other thing that raised our eyebrows was the surface water temps.  We started seeing high 76’s right away on the main lake but climbed pretty quickly to 78-79 mid day and was topping out at 81 by the afternoon/evening.  This made us really want to focus on deeper weeds but weren’t having much luck locating them.  We just weren’t in the right part of the lake.  But that’s how you learn - by doing. Total muskie count for the day = 2; 1 follow (mid 40 class) and one boated (41.5).  The day went SUPER fast for 10 hours of fishing.  Black bucktails raised the two for us.  I had the follow, my partner caught the fish. The temps had us concerned about the fish but my monster 48 inch net enables us to keep the fish completely in the water until it’s time for a quick measure and pic. Still trying to come to grips on what’s too warm for fishing muskies.  This one was on the line for no more than 2 minutes, including the net time before the hooks were out.  Maybe another minute to get the phone and board out and glove on for grabbing it up.  Less than 1 minute to measure and photo, then back in the drink for an easy resuscitation.  
    • Jeff Thill
      Looking for walleye  and bass fishing mostly.   I did hear good things about Clearwater Lake.   My wife has been looking at houses and her focus landed on West Sylvia.  She could care less about the fishing. Have any of you heard good or bad things about Sylvia Lake?    
    • FishinCT
      I looked up the Mille lacs hooking mortality study on walleyes and it started to dramatically increase around 65 degrees. About 5% mortality at 65 degrees but about 25% at 75 degrees. I have to imagine the numbers are higher for muskies given an extended fight with a large fish, having to take more care to not get cut up or hooked yourself while unhooking the fish, temptation to take lots of pictures, etc.  Here's the study if you're interested http://mnmuskie.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/Reeves-and-Bruesewitz-2007_factors-influencing-hooking-mortality-of-walleyes-Mille-Lacs.pdf
    • DLD24
      Went out the last couple days on Mille lacs, we had no problem finding fish, but the big fish eluded us... We got all sorts of year classes from 11" eyes on up to 24", which is a good sign... That big storm they got must have dirtied the water up, all the fish we found were on the top edge of the flats no matter how bright it was... Rigging leeches and crawlers were the best until we got some waves then the jigging rap was taking all the fish. The fish were stacked up on points of flats and narrow ridges on the flats... We tried pulling lead for a little while, but I've never done it so I had zero confidence in it haha.