Traps???

[Coureur_de_bois]

I need to buy some new traps but not sure what brand to get. The new traps I've seen are not built(quality) like my old ones. What brand would you buy and why? Thanks.

[Guest Kyle]

Dukes. They have great reviews in general, and they are less expensive. I'm a new trapper so I don't have a ton of experience, but I bought dukes, and have had no problems at all. Johnny P can probably give good quality advice.

[swampman]

What kind of traps? conis,coilsprings,etc

[Coureur_de_bois]

Swampman, looking to get #1 or 1 1/2 longsprings for muskrats, 330 and coilsprings for beaver, 155 or 160 body grip for marten/fisher. Thinking about Belisle or MB for the coni's. MB 750 for beaver coils. But not sure if there worth the extra money?

[Coureur_de_bois]

Thanks Kyle I have looked at the Dukes but they seem so much lighter than my older victor legholds, maybe there all lighter now. The price is definately the best.

[lichen fox]

IMO...I'd stick with the the best...the slight difference in cost shouldn't play into your choice...how much will one-two or three misses or pull-outs cost you in fur? Looking to save even $100 on your total cost could cost you way more in missed fur if you make the wrong choice! When I trapped I always ran Victors...then as the trap prices rose I tried some "cheaper" brands for a couple dozen replacements one year...in the first week I had as many misses with those traps...fox were $90 bucks back then, so you can figure out how much I lost on that deal...over 10 times the few bucks I "saved" on those traps! Needless to say, I was so mad, I threw everyone of them as far as I could as I re-set Victors in those locations and got back to collecting some fur!

[swamptiger]

Why not go to a coilspring for footholds, like a 1 1/2 or 1.75? As long as you're buying new, may as well have something more versatile. I do a little hobby trapping, and my main foothold is a 1.75 Duke, offset jaws, baseplated, center swiveled, and night-latched with a good chain. I've used them for everything from muskrats to bobcats. If you're planning to focus more on one species, you might want to get more specialized.

For bodygrips, my main go-to trap is the 220, although I have a few 110's and 120's. Also bought a couple of 155's just to try them out, and am very impressed with the springs - much stronger than the 120's I have.

The MB750 is a very good trap, just depends on how much you want to spend. You can buy two 330 Dukes for the price of one MB750.

[JBar]

IMO MTP make the best coils, and Besile for coni's. But to tell you the truth I run mostly duke's for everything but coyotes I use modified Bridgers but I also believe the new dukes are light years away from what their older traps were they are made much better now. I have been trapping for most part of my life and the only pull outs I can remember is beaver in foot holds. I now just about run 99% 330's on my beaver line with no problems. I think most pull outs on foot holds are due to trap placement and pan tension if the correct size trap is being used. If your older traps are in good shape give them a make over with some new springs or coils if everything else is in good working order on them they'll be good as new. good luck!

[swampman]

Swampman, looking to get #1 or 1 1/2 longsprings for muskrats, 330 and coilsprings for beaver, 155 or 160 body grip for marten/fisher. Thinking about Belisle or MB for the coni's. MB 750 for beaver coils. But not sure if there worth the extra money? [/quote

To my knowledge the only company that makes 1 1/2 longsprings anymore is sleepy creek I run almost all stoploss traps for muskrat trapping you will not be sorry for spending the extra money on the mb 750's as far as the conis the new bridger 330's are a vey nice trap ,if you want to spend the money on the conis the mb brand and belisle are definetly quality traps.

[The Grebe]

When I used to trap, I ran all kinds of different traps, from Herters to Victors to Blake and Lamb and everything in between and all of em worked.

If I did my part, the traps did their part and some of those traps I cooked and waxed alot of times in the 20 plus years I ran traplines! Once in awhile I would have a coyote dismantle a 1 1/2 coilspring trap, but it didn't pay any attention to brand name....I held aot of em to, same deal. Thats all I would use for fox, #1 1/2 coils. I did catch some in doggy areas with #1 coils, but that was pretty dicey.

If a trap isn't any good, it isn't on the market long, because nobody will buy em. I got ahold of only one type of bad trap that I can remember, it was a #110 type of scissor trap and it had a thick piece of wire with dents in it for the trigger lock. I think my nephew gave me a couple and after trying to set them a few times, I threw em in the junk pile to be used for parts.

[Random guy]

Well we have a 107 years of traps hanging. Some great, some good for the price and some that cost us three times what we thought we would save. For longsprings you cant go wrong with Victor or Dukes.

Duke, Herders, Victor and of course the costly Sterling make a good coil but if you really want a good trap for a decent price go with anything made by Minnesota Trapline Products. I have been slowly buying more and more of their stuff and liking it. For bad coil spring look for the words "step-in" or "****woods" on the pan and you will hate them. We bought five dozen #1 1/2 & #2 for mink and rats and every third one the jaw would snap off or the throw would bend. When we called the factory they said we were trying to catch to big of animals in them...ya mink have monster sized legs. Needless to say no warranty on those and now I use them for rat floats as those get stolen often…fooled that thief.

Conibears I have about every size and make but really like the 220 Victors, Dukes and Bridger. I have some other brands that the joint welds break or springs just don't have it.

My go to traps;

(Now I use a ATV and boat so I never need to pack in a trap making it easy to go big on everything.)

Wolf- MB750 Wolf, Sterling 800, Livestock Protection #4 double long.

Coyote -Sterling MJ-600, MB-650 , #4 Herders and my favorite the #3 double long spring Victor (and off course my wolf traps not in use)

Fox-Victor #3 four coil or #2 coil (Minneosta Trapline has about A MILLION options on these).

Beaver- 330 Coni or MB-750 Beaver or once again my old # 3 double longs

Otter- 220 Coni #2 & #3 coil

Bobcat- #3 coil , 220 coni…and yes my #3 double long spring

Racoon -220 coni, Dog proofs

Mink- 220 coni, 1 ½ coil or #2 Long spring

Muskrat- 220 coni, 1 ½ or #2 stop loss and standard long or 1 ½ coil( I prefer the long spring as I can set them with one hand out of the boat.)

Fisher Marten- 220 coni

Weasel- #0 jump

The secret to good traps is maintenance. Waxing those that should be waxed, keeping them good and black and of course going through every single trap and component before season.

[swamptiger]

You forgot to mention the 220 for weasels. If you're really crafty, sometimes you can even get a twofer...

[Random guy]

Not only a weasel in a 220 but two, now thats awesome.

[swamptiger]

I usually use wooden rat traps for weasels, but there's a first time for everything, I guess...

[Coureur_de_bois]

Thanks for the great advice and recomendations guys. My traps have been hanging in the shed for about 18 years due to my work schedule, but I took a new position that gives me more free time. I got the fever to do a little Marten/Fisher trapping and maybe put out some Mink and Weasel boxes at the same time this year. Then next season I would like to be set up for land and water trapping in northeastern MN were they have the Lynx regs. When I dug my traps out there were mostly 110 coni's, so I need to pretty much start from scratch. I dont want to waist money on junk or things I dont need so appreciate your help, this website is awesome. Thanks again guys.

[WAG416]

Thinking about Belisle or MB for the coni's. MB 750 for beaver coils. But not sure if there worth the extra money?

Mos Def worth the extra money. However, with proper adjustments/ modifications(pan tension,swivels, etc..) you can put those cheaper traps to good use as well.

Trap placement being equally important. I think of this way, typically more expensive the trap, less modifications and adjustments need to be made.

[swamptiger]

Quote:

I think of this way, typically more expensive the trap, less modifications and adjustments need to be made.

This is true - you need to watch the cheaper traps, and often re-adjust the pan height or rebend the dog after making a catch. Another thing to consider if you trap public land, there seems to be a lot of trap thieves around these days..

[WAG416]

Awesome weasel pic !

[jigginjim]

Just starting to go back to trapping with my 11yr old son. I still have a few of my old victor 1 long spring, 1 1/2 long spring, 1 1/2coils springs. I bought 2 110's and 1, 330 coni for beaver. I think the 330 was a bad choice as the price of beaver stinks.

I hear about stop loss traps for rats. What and how are they different from the old traps. I lost 3 rats to leg holds this fall. what is a good why to keep from only getting the foot of the rats?

[Random guy]

Make the set a drowner set or a stoploss trap.

Here is a #1 Victor from Minnesota Trapline Products. Basicaly the wire frame holds back over the long spring until the pin you see on the chain is pulled. Once that happens the wire frame springs forward preventing chew offs or stops the loss.

[swampman]

If you get some stoploss don't use the pin, all the guys I know that use these (myself included) don't use the pin its not needed and can end up costing you some rats. Sometimes the trap can get hung up and the spring can't deploy. Some guys even remove the delay pin.