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Fly Patterns


SportFishin'

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Materials:

Hook 2X light streamer, size 14-6

Craft Foam Any color to match natural or color of choice.

Thread Color matching foam

Krystal Flash Chenille(color of foam/or contrast).

Legs nylon broom fibers.

MonsterMtl2.jpg

Tying instructions

1.Cut two foam strips.

2.Shape one as shown.

3.Tie in the narrow end of the strip that was shaped. Use loose turns or a flat thread, otherwise the thread will cut through the foam.

4.Take the second foam material – it will help you form a nice body.

5.Tie in.

6.Bend forward, tie in.

7.Then backward,and so on. Finish when you will be satisfied with the shape of the body.

8.Cut off the excess.

9.Tie In Krystal Flash make wraps to rear.

10.Here is the time for the broom. It is better to use broom with thick plastic bristles. Pull out some bristles. If you don’t have a broom, you can use hair brush (if you dare).

Tie in the bristles. It will be bug legs. Secure it with some Super Glue.

11.Some more Krystal Flash to cover Leg tie in & trim excess.

12.Stretch the 1st foam strip forward and fasten it to form rear body.

13.Wrap forward to form the head then bend back & wrap again to finish head & trim foam.

14.Now it’s candle time. Take a paper clip, forceps, heat the clip on the candle light (be careful with the open flame!!!)

It needs to be just a small touch to bend the leg. If you go too long it will burn through.

15.Trim the legs to disired length.

And that’s it – you have a "MONSTER BUG"

TieOntohook.jpg

WrapThorax.jpg

SecondWrap.jpg

ThirdWrapChenille.jpg

WrapChenille.jpg

LegsTiedIn.jpg

BodyTied.jpg

HeadTied.jpg

SecondLayerHead.jpg

LegsBentTrimmed.jpg

MonsterBug8.jpg

Enjoy gentlemen & tight lines!

Chris

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  • 7 months later...

This thread is the place to post your fly recipes. I hope many of the tiers in the bunch can put up some of their favorite patterns from the most basic to advanced. Include instructions on how to tie the fly, and the how/what/where of fishing it.

Please keep posting to patterns and recipes only.

I'd also like to make it very clear that this thread is not limited to expert tiers. If you're new to tying or an old hat, please feel free to contribute a pattern...any pattern, just try not to post any identical patterns. Variants are certainly okay, however.

Thanks!

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WhiskeyFly.jpg

Whisky Fly

There are quite a few patterns with the same name, due to the fact that it's a fly tied solely with wild turkey feathers. I tied this fly recently for a friend's fly swap.

Hook: Size 10 nymph

Head: Size 5/32 dark bead

Thread: uni-thread rusty dun 6/0

Tail/ Body: wild turkey; marabou from base of feather

Ribbing: brassie size gold wire or whatever you choose

Instructions: Very easy to tie, and the turkey has a nice “buggy” look to it. Put bead on hook, hook in vise, tie on tail, tie in ribbing, wrap thread forward, wrap turkey forward, tie down turkey, wrap ribbing forward, tie down ribbing, finish. Depending on length of available feather, I occasionally add more marabou as needed anywhere along the process of tying…usually toward the head.

Notes: A friend of mine gave me a couple of these flies last summer. I fished them both, promptly caught a few fish, and lost them both while fishing deep. They’re a quick, easy tie, and work very well as the lead fly in a 2-fly rig. Fish like a streamer, or fish like a nymph.

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  • 3 weeks later...

buffalosoljahgd5.jpg

Buffalo Soljah

Here's my entry from the Winter 2008 FM fly swap.

hook: size 10 Tiemco 3769 or other 2x heavy nymph hook

thread: 6/0 UNI, dark brown

head: copper bead, 5/32”

wingcase: flashback (mylar or other wing material), pearl

thorax: peacock herl

legs: pheasant tail

body :pheasant tail

rib: Ultra Wire red, medium

tail: pheasant tail

Place bead on hook and wrap thread to hook bend. Tie in 5 or 6 pheasant tail fibers for the tail, leaving the length of fibers about one hook length. Tie in the wire rib. Wrap thread forward over the tag end of the wire to midway across the hook shank. Wrap (palmer) the PT fibers along the hook shank, tie off and trim. Wrap the wire rib in the opposite direction that you wrapped the PT fibers, tie off and trim. Cut the flashback material in a 1/8” wide strip. Tie in. Tie in three or four peacock herls and wrap thread to beadhead. Palmer the peacock herls to the beadhead, tie off and trim. Tie in 4 or 5 PT fibers on each side of the thorax behind the beadhead, length at about one hook length. Fold the flashback forward, tie off and trim. Whip finish behind the beadhead and epoxy the threads and wingcase.

Fish the fly slowly along current seams, riffles, or backwater sloughs for suckers, redhorse, carp, or buffalo. This fly also works for catching panfish and trout.

Tight Lines!

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xfactornymphyf4.jpg

X Factor Nymph

hook: size 10 Tiemco 3769 or other 2x heavy nymph hook

thread: 6/0 UNI, dark brown

head: black bead, 5/32”

wingcase: flashback (mylar or other wing material), pearl

thorax: antron yarn, brown stone

legs: silicone grizzly legs, silver peacock

body: antron yarn, brown stone

rib: Ultra Wire gold, medium

tail: antron yarn, brown stone

Place bead on hook and wrap thread to hook bend. Tie in 3" of antron yarn, leaving the length of fibers about one hook length as the tail. Tie in the wire rib. Wrap thread forward over the tag end of the wire to midway across the hook shank. Wrap (palmer)the antron yarn around the hook, 2/3 of the length, building up a tapered body. Tie off and trim. Wrap the wire rib in the opposite direction that you wrapped the yarn, tie off and trim. Cut the flashback material in a 1/8” wide strip. Tie in. Tie in a sili leg on each side of the hook shank at the thorax. Tie in a piece of antron yarn. Wrap thread to beadhead. Palmer the yarn to the beadhead, building a thorax, tie off and trim. Fold the flashback forward, tie off and trim. Whip finish behind the beadhead and epoxy the threads and wingcase.

Fish the fly like a standard nymph. Experiment tying with different color wire, antron yarn, and sili legs. The possibilities are endless.

Tight Lines!

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fontainessparklepupapq9.jpg

LaFontaine's Sparkle Pupa

hook: size 10-18 Tiemco 3769 or other 2x heavy nymph hook

thread: 6/0 UNI, brown

head: tan or beige antron dubbing.

wing: elk hair

body: antron yarn (or dubbing), amber, amber/ginger mix, or gray

pupa case: amber antron

body: amber antron

tail: antron yarn, clear or white

Placehook in vise and wrap thread to hook bend. Tie in white antron yarn, leaving the length of fibers about one hook length as the tail. Wrap thread to mid-hook and tie in two bunches of amber antron yarn, one on top and one on bottom of hook shank. Wrap thread back to hook bend. Tie in another piece of amber antron yarn. Wrap thread forward to 2/3 of hook length. Wrap (palmer) the antron yarn around the hook, 2/3 of the length, building a body. Tie off and trim. Pull amber antron forward, over the the top and bottom of the hook shank, to form the pupa case, making sure to leave a pocket around the hook shank. Tie off and trim. Take a small pinch of elk hair, clean the underfur, and stack. Tie in as the wing, one hook length. Trim. Add beige/tan dubbing and wrap to just behind the hook eye. Whip finish, forming a slight head with the thread. Tie off and epoxy the threads.

Using antron yarn to form a pupa case is unique, as it simulates a trapped gas bubble often found in emerging caddis pupae.

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brownantronmayflynymphhb0.jpg

One Yarn Nymph

hook: size 10-18 Tiemco 3769 or other 2x heavy nymph hook

thread: 6/0 UNI, dark brown

head: black or copper bead, 5/32”

wingcase: antron yarn, brown stone

thorax: antron yarn, brown stone

legs: antron yarn, brown stone

body: antron yarn, brown stone

tail: antron yarn, brown stone

Place bead on hook and wrap thread to hook bend. Tie in 3" of antron yarn, leaving the length of fibers about one hook length as the tail. Wrap thread forward, a few leye lengths behind th eye. Wrap (palmer)the antron yarn around the hook, 2/3 of the length, building up a tapered body. Tie in and leave tag end on bottom of hook. Cut 1" piece of yarn, and tie in as a wingcase. Wrap the existing tag end of yarn forward to behind the beadhead, building a thorax. Tie off and trim. Tie in a small piece of yarn on each side of the hook shank behind the bead head, forming the legs, about 2/3 of a hook length. Tie off and trim. Fold the wingcase forward, tie off and trim. Whip finish behind the beadhead and epoxy the threads and wingcase.

I was involved in a challenge to tie a fly using only one material, yarn, and thread. Bead heads or bead-chain eyes, optional. It was time to get creative and I had already been experimenting wtih antron yarn. I was trying to tie an all synthetic nymph. This was one of the results. Fish this like a standard heavy nymph.

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  • 2 weeks later...

025jf5.jpg

Brown Antron Special

hook: size 10-16 Tiemco 2457 or other 2x heavy scud hook

thread: 6/0 UNI, dark brown

head: black or copper bead

wingcase: flashback (mylar or other wing material), pearl

thorax: antron yarn, brown stone

legs: antron yarn, brown stone

body: antron yarn, brown stone

rib: Ultra Wire gold, medium

tail: antron yarn, brown stone

Place bead on hook and wrap thread to hook bend. Tie in 3" of antron yarn, leaving the length of fibers about one-half of hook length as the tail. Tie in wire rib and wrap thread forward, a few eye lengths behind the eye. Wrap (palmer)the antron yarn around the hook, 2/3 of the length, building up a tapered body. Tie in and leave tag end on bottom of hook. Wrap rib in the opposite direction that you wrapped the antron body, cut. Cut 1/8" wide strip of flashback, and tie in as a wingcase. Wrap the existing tag end of yarn forward to behind the beadhead, building a thorax. Tie off and trim. Tie in a small piece of yarn on each side of the hook shank behind the bead head, forming the legs, about 2/3 of a hook length. Tie off and trim. Fold the wingcase forward, tie off and trim. Whip finish behind the beadhead and epoxy the threads and wingcase.

This is a designed carp fly but could be used for just about any fish species willing to take a fly. Fish this like a standard heavy nymph.

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028oy6.jpg

Rubber Legged Copper John

hook: size 10 Tiemco 3769 or other 2x heavy nymph hook

thread: 6/0 UNI, black

head: black bead, 5/32”

wingcase: flashback (mylar or other wing material), pearl

thorax: peacock herl

legs: silicone grizzly legs, silver peacock

body: Ultra Wire black, large

tail: goose biot, black

Place bead on hook and wrap thread to hook bend. Tie in two goose biots for the tail. Tie in the wire for the body. Wrap thread forward over the tag end of the wire and goose biots to midway across the hook shank. Wrap wire around the hook, 2/3 of the length, building up a tapered body. Tie off and trim. Cut the flashback material in a 1/8” wide strip. Tie in. Tie in a sili leg on each side of the hook shank at the thorax. Tie in a couple strands of peacock herl. Wrap thread to beadhead. Palmer the herl to the beadhead, building a thorax, tie off and trim. Fold the flashback forward, tie off and trim. Whip finish behind the beadhead and epoxy the threads and wingcase.

Fish the fly like a standard nymph. This should be a deadly roughfish fly with the sili legs.

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darthnymphslightdorsalqu4.jpg

Eclipse Nymph

hook: size 10 Tiemco 3769 or other 2x heavy nymph hook

thread: 6/0 UNI, black

head: black bead, 5/32”

wingcase: flashback (mylar or other wing material), pearl

thorax: peacock herl

legs: pheasant tail, black

body :pheasant tail, black

rib: Ultra Wire black, medium

tail: pheasant tail, black

Place bead on hook and wrap thread to hook bend. Tie in seven or eight pheasant tail fibers for the tail, leaving the length of fibers about one hook length. Tie in the wire rib. Wrap thread forward over the tag end of the wire to midway across the hook shank. Wrap (palmer) the PT fibers along the hook shank, tie off and trim. Wrap the wire rib in the opposite direction that you wrapped the PT fibers, tie off and trim. Cut the flashback material in a 1/8” wide strip. Tie in. Tie in two or three peacock herls and wrap thread to beadhead. Palmer the peacock herls to the beadhead, tie off and trim. Tie in a small bunch of PT fibers on each side of the thorax behind the beadhead, length at about one hook length. Fold the flashback forward, tie off and trim. Whip finish behind the beadhead and epoxy the threads and wingcase.

The PT fibers on the dyed black tails seem to be finer than those on a regular tail. You may need to double the amount of fibers added to the die, to give the desired look and appearance for the tails and wings. Fish this in rocky riffles like a little black stonefly, or traditionally like a mayfly nymph.

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  • 3 weeks later...

peacockflashnymphwh3.jpg

Peacock Flash Nymph

hook: size 10-16 Tiemco 2457 or other 2x heavy scud hook

thread: 6/0 UNI, black

head: black bead, 5/32"

wingcase: flashback, pearl

thorax: krystal flash, peacock

legs: krystal flash, peacock

body: krystal flash, peacock

rib: Ultra Wire black, medium

tail: krystal flash, peacock

Place bead on hook and wrap thread to hook bend. Tie in 4 or 5 strands of krystal flash, leaving the length of fibers about one-half of hook length as the tail. Tie in wire rib and wrap thread forward, a few eye lengths behind the eye. Wrap (palmer)the krystal flash around the hook, 2/3 of the length, building up a tapered body. Tie in and leave tag end on bottom of hook. Wrap rib in the opposite direction that you wrapped the body, cut. Cut 1/8" wide strip of flashback, and tie in as a wingcase. Wrap the existing tag end of krystal flash forward to behind the beadhead, building a thorax. Tie off and trim. Tie in a bunch of krystal flash on each side of the hook shank behind the bead head, forming the legs, about 2/3 of a hook length. Tie off and trim. Fold the wingcase forward, tie off and trim. Whip finish behind the beadhead and epoxy the threads and wingcase.

I like the look of the krystal flash when it is tied as a yarn. The twisted mylar gives a unique appearance to the fly, and the peacock color is a little more subdued than some of the other varieties of flash, so hopefully it will not be too flashy. The suppleness of the mylar should allow for lifelike movement in the water. This is pretty much a synthetic version of my eclipse nymph pattern, and hopefully will be much more durable. There will be some serious competition in the bugger barn for fly choice. The hardest part will be figuring out which fly to fish first.

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  • 11 months later...

fishing027.jpg

hook- size 10 straight shank

body- ostrich herl

tail- gold marabou flash

wing- tips of ostrich herl from body, folded back and tied so they stick up

eyes- bead chain eyes placed so the hook rides point up

this fly is great for perch, sunfish, crappies, carp, basically anything that will eat nymphs.

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whateva012.jpg

hook- size 8 straight heavy nymph hook

tail- rope core

wing- bucktail

head- thread (any color, i like red for triggering a responce from predators)

this fly is great for crappie, bass and pike. fish it like any other streamer. the rope core tail adds a natural type flash as well as alot of movement. this fly has yet to fail me

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StoneFly Pattern

Side View

BrownStone4.jpg

Top View

BrownStone1.jpg

Bottom View

BrownStone2.jpg

Hook: Sz 8-12 Nymph

Thread: Brown

Tail: Brown Turkey Biot

Abdomen: Brown Half Round Larva Lace

Wing Case: 1/8" Brown or Gray Scud Back

Thorax: Brown Hare-Tron Dubbing

Legs: Brown Turkey Biot

Instruction:

1.Tie in 2 biots at hook bend

2.Tie in larva lace and make 6-7 wraps and tie off

3.Tie in Scud back and move out of way

4.Add 2 Biots for legs

5.Add small amount of dubbing 2-3 wraps

6.Add 2 more Biots

7.Another small amount of dubbing 2-3 wraps

8.Add final 2 Biots

9.Dub 2-3 wraps not to crowd the hook eye

10.Pull Scud Back over top and tie off to create wing case

11.Form Small Head, Whip Finish, & Cement Head.

Enjoy, This is a local stonefly pattern I have learned recently for out here on the Blue ribbon waters of Montana.

Reagards,

Chris Buller

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Skwala Fly

Side View

SkwalaFly1.jpg

Top View

SkwalaFly3.jpg

Bottom View

SkwalaFly2.jpg

Hook: 8-12 Dry 2x

Tail: Elk Hair

Abdomen: Light Brown Olive Hare-Tron Dubbing

Wing Case: Mallard Flank prepared with Fleximent or Wing Fixative

Wing: Elk Hair

Thorax: Black Hare-Tron Dubbing

Hackle: Grizzly Hackle wrapped over Dubbed thorax

Head: 6-0 Iron Gray or Black Thread

Instructions: Tie in order as materials listed.

The Skwala Fly hatches in the Western US Rivers late spring to early summer. May also be used as an alternative Hopper pattern.

Regards,

Chris Buller

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  • 1 month later...

002jpg.jpg

glow in the dark soft hackle

hook size 10

thread black 8/0

body one strand of yellow glow crystal flash, tied in at mid point wrapped forward then back and forward again

hackle pheasant feather

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  • 2 weeks later...

buffalosoljahgd5.jpg

Buffalo Soljah

Here's my entry from the Winter 2008 FM fly swap.

hook: size 10 Tiemco 3769 or other 2x heavy nymph hook

thread: 6/0 UNI, dark brown

head: copper bead, 5/32”

wingcase: flashback (mylar or other wing material), pearl

thorax: peacock herl

legs: pheasant tail

body :pheasant tail

rib: Ultra Wire red, medium

tail: pheasant tail

Place bead on hook and wrap thread to hook bend. Tie in 5 or 6 pheasant tail fibers for the tail, leaving the length of fibers about one hook length. Tie in the wire rib. Wrap thread forward over the tag end of the wire to midway across the hook shank. Wrap (palmer) the PT fibers along the hook shank, tie off and trim. Wrap the wire rib in the opposite direction that you wrapped the PT fibers, tie off and trim. Cut the flashback material in a 1/8” wide strip. Tie in. Tie in three or four peacock herls and wrap thread to beadhead. Palmer the peacock herls to the beadhead, tie off and trim. Tie in 4 or 5 PT fibers on each side of the thorax behind the beadhead, length at about one hook length. Fold the flashback forward, tie off and trim. Whip finish behind the beadhead and epoxy the threads and wingcase.

Fish the fly slowly along current seams, riffles, or backwater sloughs for suckers, redhorse, carp, or buffalo. This fly also works for catching panfish and trout.

Tight Lines!

only kynd folks would come up with a "buffalo soljah" fly... love it.. if i knew how to tie.. i would make one

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  • 2 weeks later...

Splayed alive

the "splayed alive" pike fly is basically just a

hook: 1/0 - 4/0

Tail:

A small bunch of bucktail, deer or similar stiff hair. Four soft rooster saddle, strung hackle or similar feathers. Optional: a few straws of flash

Body: Underwool from hair or coarse dubbing

Hackle: Two feathers, as tail

Head: Flash chenille or flash straws

(i took these pics off a store website, i couldnt get my camera to focus right)

TP005.jpg

TP008.jpg

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BIG EYE BAITFISH

Hook : amakatsu SC15 # 2 - 6/0

Tail : Saltwater Saddle Hackle White And Polar Flash Pearl

Belly : Bucktail White

Shoulders : Bucktail Light Gray

Wing : Krystal Flash Pearl , Olive , Peacock And Peacock Herl

Gill Plates : Prismatic Pre Cut Gill Plates

Throat : Krystal Flash Red

Eyes : Holographic Eyes Silver 1/4

Epoxy : 5 Minute Epoxy

big5.gif

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  • 1 year later...

Crazy Goof

This thread has been pretty quiet lately so I figured I'd throw this fly up. I already put it up in the trout section, figured it should go here too.

Hook: Long, curved shank #10-#16

Body: Ice chenille (orange)

Wing Case: Elk Hair (light)

Tail: Elk Hair extended from wing case

Hackle: white grizzly

DSC01864.jpg

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DSC01871.jpg

Add hard cement to the wing case and you're good to go.

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The Cray Fly

Hook: Long Curved Shank #10 and up (also could use streamer or jig hooks)

Bead Chain or Brass Eyes, depending on suze

Pinchers: Fox Squirrel Tail

Body: Ice Chenille, can use any color, I used rootbeer/brown

Shell: Wapsi Thin Skin, I used mottled brown.

Legs: Wapsi Sili Legs, yellow barred

Wire: Gold Ultra Wire

It's best to use GSP thread for the larger sizes to really get the squirrel tail on tight.

Start by bending the eye slightly downward if it's not already down. and wrapping the eyes in at the bend, above the eye. You want the fly to ride hook-up.

DSC01951.jpg

Next, tie in your stacked squirrel tail. Throw a wrap around the hair only to get it to ride to one side, then do the same for the other side to create the pinchers. I will add a bit of cement to the hook shank now for durability.

DSC01953.jpg

Now, tie in your Thin Skin as shown below.

DSC01957.jpg

Tie in your ice chenille, ultra wire, and legs. Wrap the Chenille tightly and tie off above the eyes. Then, lay the thin skin over the chenille and tie off above the eyes. you may need to trim the skin a bit for it to tie off well. Now, wrap your wire with one large gap at first, the smaller gaps to give the look of an abdomen and tail. See the nearly finished product below.

DSC01958.jpg

Add cement to your last wraps of thread and trim the chenille near the eyes so the fly site with it's pinchers slightly upward in a defensive looking posture.

DSC01960.jpg

Here's the same fly on a #2 Streamer hook:

DSC01962.jpg

Here's the fly on a 1/0 jig hook. I like this hook for the larger sizes as it seems to sit better and isn't so long looking.

DSC01961.jpg

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  • 5 months later...

Pike Popper

Hook: 3/0 Saltwater standard

Body: Foam Block (got it from Joann's Fabrics for 1$)

Tail/legs: Marabou and Saddle feathers w/Krystal flash tied in

It's a fairly self explanatory tie.

DSC01982.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

The more I look at that pic the more I realize how terrible I am at cutting foam! Oh well, hopefully the fish don't care. grin

Here's another one I've made a few of. This one is orange firetiger, I've also done black/chartruese. Both look fishy.

The Rabbit Minnow

DSC_1039-1.jpg

Thread: GSP 100 (head formed with cheaper thread and cemented)

Hook: Mustad S71S Saltwater 3/0 (I think it was this)

Dumbbell Eyes: Brass (your choice really)

Tail: Yellow/White w/a little red marabou

Flash: Pearl crystal flash tied in sparingly

Body: Crystal Flash Chenille (Large)

Body: Orange/Yellow Barred Magnum Rabbit Strips

Most of my ties are pretty self explanatory. Their nothing complicated, but they catch fish.

PS - One note about this specific tie. I tried to cinch down the rabbit in the front, middle and back for curability but you can still see the thread a little bit in the body. I don't think it matters too much, but I didn't do this in subsequent ties. Just for a cleaner look.

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I've also tied smaller, dark olive versions of the above fly for brown trout fishing. Those were tied hook point up.

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  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...

Ok here we go.. This is one of my definite "Go-To" patterns.. Have caught a ton of trout on this fly.. Trailed with a PT.. You got one deadly combination...

The Trout Carrot

Hook: Beadhead Nymph #12-16

Weight: Matching Brass Bead and 4-6 wraps of lead

Thread: 140 Black

Dubbing: FTD's Orange Hare's Web or Halo dubbing

Ribbing: Gold Wire

Tail: Pheasant Tail

Wingcase: Pheasant Tail

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Halo Dubbing Carrot

full-29372-26823-p1060823.jpg

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • gimruis
      I hunt in the rifle zone so I don't have a need to use a shotgun to hunt deer, but I would be looking at this if there was ever a need to.   There could be state legislation introduced next summer that eliminates the shotgun zone completely.  It has bipartisan support.  Wisconsin removed theirs years ago and MN is usually later to follow.  They've tried to pass it more than once and it came up just short both times.  Probably just a matter of time.
    • Wanderer
      Oh, h e l l no! 
    • leech~~
      Screw that, here's whatch need!  😆   Power-Shok Rifled Slug 10 Gauge 766 Grain Grain Weight: 766 Shotshell Length: 3-1/2in / 89mm Muzzle Velocity: 1280
    • Wanderer
      20 ga has become a real popular deer round in the last 5 or so years.  The rifled barrels are zinging those sabot slugs with rifle like accuracy out to 100 yards easily.  Some go so far as dialing in for a 200 yard shot but really, by 150 they’re falling off pretty low.   I have a single shot Ultraslug in 20 ga that shoots really well at 100 yards.  Most everyone I know that has bought a slug gun lately has gotten the Savage 220 in 20ga.  Problem can be finding the shells you want.
    • leech~~
      My son always bugs me about getting a nice light over-under 20ga for grouse hunting.  I say Heck no, I'm getting a 3 1/2" 10ga so I can put as much lead in the air that I can!!     So, I'm keeping my 12ga.  
    • 11-87
      That’s almost exactly what I was thinking.  Have slug barrels for both   One for turkey and one for deer.      I have a 20ga mosseberg as well. (Combo came with the scope but never used.   I always liked the 12 better
    • leech~~
      Wanderer is right on the money and covered it well.  I was wondering too if you had a slug barrel for one of your guns?  If so you could make that your slug gun with a scope, and the other your turkey gun with the Red dot.  As you can afford it. 
    • Wanderer
      Kinda depends on if you want magnification or quick target acquisition.   More magnification options and better accuracy with a scope.  You get what you pay for too so get comfortable with a budget for one.  Tasco and Bushnell work but I find they lose their zero easier, have low contrast and don’t gather light well in low light conditions.  That said, I’m still using one I haven’t replaced yet.  Vortex has been the hot brand for the past several years for bang for the buck.  Good products.  Nothing beats Swarovski though.  Huge dough for those.  Burris is another decent option.   There are some specific models for shotgun/slug hunting in the economy brands and bullet drop compensation (BDC) reticles.  Based on experience I’d recommend not falling for that marketing ploy.   Red dots are usually lower magnification and easier to get on target.  Reasonably accurate but don’t do well with definition, like searching the brush for your target.  I put a HAWKE red dot on a .22 for squirrels and it’s been good.  For turkey, that’s probably the route I’d go.     If your slug shots are normally not too far and too brushy, I’d think a red dot could work there too if you’re only buying 1 scope.  You’ll be better off dimming the reticle to the lowest setting you can easily use to not over shine the target and get a finer aim point.   If you don’t have a slug barrel, you might appreciate one of those.  I had a browning with a smoothbore slug barrel that shot Brenneke 2-3/4 inch well.  The 11-87 would well fitted with a cantelever rifled barrel. 
    • 11-87
      Looking for recommendations on scope or red dot    I basically hunt turkey and whitetail, live in southern MN. So it’s all deer/ shotgun    looking to add a scope/ red dot as my eyes don’t work like they used to to with the open sights.    my gun options are 11/87 12. Browning BPS 12    not looking for the most expensive or the cheapest    pros and cons of one over the other
    • SkunkedAgain
      That's good news. I haven't seen any ice in Black Bay yet, but it looks like the small bays should start to freeze up this weekend. Hopefully we make some ice next week.   Below is the forecast for Cook. We should have temps mostly below zero . The bottom section below shows that it should not be windy, and no snow is predicted. All good signs for making ice.  
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