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DEADhead

Winter 2008 Fly Swap pattern recipes

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DEADhead

Please post your pattern recipes here for the Winter 2008 Fishing Minnesota Fly Swap.

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DEADhead

Buffalo Soljah

buffalosoljahgd5.jpg

hook: size 10 Tiemco 3769 or other 2x heavy nymph hook

thread: 6/0 UNI, dark brown

head: copper bead, 5/32”

wingcase: flashback (mylar or other wing material), pearl

thorax: peacock herl

legs: pheasant tail

body :pheasant tail

rib: Ultra Wire red, medium

tail: pheasant tail

Place bead on hook and wrap thread to hook bend. Tie in 5 or 6 pheasant tail fibers for the tail, leaving the length of fibers about one hook length. Tie in the wire rib. Wrap thread forward over the tag end of the wire to midway across the hook shank. Wrap (palmer) the PT fibers along the hook shank, tie off and trim. Wrap the wire rib in the opposite direction that you wrapped the PT fibers, tie off and trim. Cut the flashback material in a 1/8” wide strip. Tie in. Tie in three or four peacock herls and wrap thread to beadhead. Palmer the peacock herls to the beadhead, tie off and trim. Tie in 4 or 5 PT fibers on each side of the thorax behind the beadhead, length at about one hook length. Fold the flashback forward, tie off and trim. Whip finish behind the beadhead and epoxy the threads and wingcase.

Fish the fly slowly along current seams, riffles, or backwater sloughs for suckers, redhorse, carp, or buffalo. This fly also works for catching panfish and trout.

Tight Lines!

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SportFishin'

Pearl Flash Brassie

Pics later just wanted to add what my pattern & recipe was going to be for now.

Hook: Size 12-20 Nymph Hook

Thread: Black

Body: Fine Copper Wire ( Colored may be used for variations)

Wing: Krystal Flash (Pearl)

Thorax: Peacock Hearl. (Rabbit Dubbing or Muskrat may be used also.)

1. Take 3" of fine wire. Holding both ends of the wire make one forward turn.

2. Using the leading end, wind the wire toward the eye in touching wraps, making sure that no gaps form.

3. When a dozen or so wraps have been made,trim off the excess to the rear with scissors. If a sharp end sticks up pinch down with small pliers.

4. Slide the wraps down the bend of hook, wind on more wraps towards the eye. Keep winding the wire in touching wraps until whole shank is covered.

5. Secure the loose end of the copper wire with the tying thread and remove the excess wire. Tie in a folded over piece of Krystal Flash Pearl to form pre-emergant wings with a few turns of thread. Tie in 2 pieces of peacock herl with a few turn of thread. Then wrap thread near eye of hook.

6. Twist peacock herls to form fuzzy rope, wrap the herl to form a pronounced thorax. Leaving it short of the eye to enable formation of head. Tie off herl & trim excess.

7. Form a small neat head with thread, whip finish, & cement. Also trim excess Krystal Flash so that wings are just short of hook bend.

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Nate McVey

Shiner's Morristone Stonefly Nymph

100_1168_0001.jpg

Hook: Gamakatsu Stone Fly Size 8

Thread: Dark 8/0, 6/0, 3/0 (I used 6/0)

Lead Free Wire: .035 Round Lead Free Wire

Head: 5/32 Gold Bead

Tail: Black Goose Biots

Abdomen/Thorax: Black Dubbing

Rib: Medium, Brown V-Rib

Wing Case: 1/8" Stretch Flex

Legs: Brown, Mottled Hen Saddle Feather

Smash barb down and wrap from 3/16" behind the eye to just past the barb. Wrap a single layer of wire over the thread, leaving a small amount of thread exposed on either end of the wire (you can wrap a second layer of wire if you would like more weight, just shorten by about 3 turns and center it over the first layer. I only used one.) Snip off two biots and tie in one at a time, forming a "V" at the end of the wire (just above the bend in the hook). Once the biots are tied in, tie in 4" of V-Rib (length of V-Rib should be away from the eye). In 3-4 turns, bring thread to the eye portion of the lead. Cut a 1" piece of Stretch Flex (length of Stretch Flex away from the eye) and tie in at the eye-end of the lead. Pluck a hen feather, grasp 1/8" of the tip and stroke the loose fibers away from the tip. Tie in on top of the Stretch Flex (tip towards eye) with the concave side up. In 3-4 turns, bring thread back to bend avoiding Stretch Flex and Hen feather. Using the black dubbing, dub 3-4" of thread and wrap tightly towards the eye making sure to wrap directly behind and in-front of the Stretch Flex and Hen Feather. Secure with a few wraps behind the bead. Wrap the V-Rib in 4-5 wraps from the bend to where you tied in the Stretch Flex and Hen Feather, then 2-3 more times to the bead, tie in and trim. Bring Hen Feather forward over the bead, note where the hen-saddle reaches the back of the bead; trim the fibers along both sides of the stem from this point forward. Tie in and snip off excess. Secure the Stretch Flex in the same way you did the Hen-saddle, tie off and trim. Whip finsih and add head cement.

I modified the original Morristone recipe by adding the bead, switching from yarn to dubbing and changed the tail from trimmed hen-saddle to the biots.

It is meant to be fished in fast, broken water on a dead drift-Stonefly water, but can also be used to imitate a dragonfly nymph.

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musky_tail05

BH Krystal Nymph

pics up later......

hook: Mustad 3906B size #12

thread: 6/0 UNI, black

bead: 5/32" gold

tail: Krystal flash, silver

body: Antron dubbing, dark olive

rib: single strand of Krystal flash, silver

wing: Krystal flash, silver

legs: Wood-duck

Smash down barb on hook and place bead on hook. Wrap thread to hook bend. Tie in approximately 12 strands of Krystal flash. Trim ends so that the tail is about 1/4" long. Tie in single strand of Krystal flash, making sure it's atleast 2" long.....this will be used for the rib. Wax thread and spin on Antron dubbing. Dub a tapered body 1/2 to 2/3 the way up the hook shank. Wrap the single strand of Krystal flash ribbing foreward, making about four or five turns. Tie off ribbing. Tie in another 12 strands of Krystal flash, forming the wing. Wax thread and spin on more Antron dubbing, slightly thicker this time, and dub up to the bead. Tie in a small bunch of wood-duck on the bottom of the hook extending back to the hook point, forming the legs. Whip finish behind the bead and cement thread. Trim wing so that it's about 1/4" long or so that the wing ends where the tail begins.

A heavy, flashy nymph that's easy to tie and dynamite on bluegills. The first "prototype" I had a few years back was destroyed in less than two months. I haven't tried this fly on trout yet, but will this spring. I typically fish this fly by letting it sink a few feet and then giving it four or five quick strips, pausing for about five seconds, then repeating. Good Luck!

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mouse

Green Nymph: Hook: Mustad 9671 or equivalent size 14-18 this

one is size 16.

Weight: Lead wire or bead head

Thread: Olive or color to match body.

Rib: Copper wire

Tail: Lemon Wood Duck

body: Medium olive rabbit or squirrel

Wing case: Turkey or goose wing

Thorax: Same as body

Hackle: Hungarian Partridge feather

Start the thread by covering the hook shank.

Tie in lead wire if desired.

Tie in ribbing and leave the thread at the bend of the hook.

Tie in tail at the bend. Make it about the length of the shank.

Dubb in the body, to about 3/5ths the hook length. Leave thread there.

Wrap forward the ribbing and tie off at the 3/5ths point.

Tie in the wing case with shiny side up.

Dub the thorax thicker than the body and try to give a more spiky look than the body.

Tie in the Partridge feather. I like to pull the fibers off of one side of the feather shaft to keep the hackle sparse.

Wind 2 turns of hackle and tie off and clip.

Pull the wing case over the hackle, pushing any hackle sticking up off to the sides, and tie off behind the eye of the hook.

Whip finish and cement the knot if desired.

You can tie this nymph in other colors as well.

I fish this nymph in a typical up and across dead drift fashion, but get a lot of fish on the rise at the end of the drift much like fishing with soft hackles. Hope this fly catches as many fish for you as it has for me. I like in colors gray and brown as well.

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so haaad

BH Golden Pheasant

Hook: Nymph size 16 (Mustad 3399)

Head: Black bead – Black or gold

Thread: Olive or brown

Tail: Pheasant tail

Abdomen: Gold tinsel

Wingcase: Thin skin - turkey

Thorax: Ice Dub - peacock

Legs: Partridge - brown

Wingcase: Pheasant tail

Sorry for the poor pictures...

golddigger1.jpggolddigger3.jpg

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erickol

Dirty Water Cactus Possum

Hook: TMC 3761 sz 6

Thread: Brown Uni 8/0

Weight: .303 lead wire

Rib: two starnds orange flashabou

Body dubbing: 60% natural opposum (from sides/belly), 35% natural rabbit, 5% dark rust squirell/antron blend

Thorax/Hackle: Large root beer cactus chenille

cactuspossum.jpg

The photo shows the fly a bit lighter in color and the dubbing highlights are lost!

1: Wrap the shank from just behind the eye to just above the hook point in lead and secure with thread wraps and head cement.

2: Tie in two starnds of the orange flashabou for the rib just behind the lead.

3: Bring the thread behind the tie in point for the rib to the bend of the hook shank.

4: Begin dubbing a tapered body. Dub forward to about a hook's gap length behind the eye.

5: Wrap the flashabou rib to this point and tie off.

6: Tie in the cactus chenille at this point and add a pinch of dubbing and wrap behind the chenille and bring thread forward to just behind the eye.

7: wrap the chenille in closely packed wraps. stroke the fibers back while doing this. Leave enough room for a whip finished head and tie off.This chennile is kind of a pain to work with, so you'll have to clip off little bits of it to get a clean head. Using 6/0 thread would help in this! cement the thread wraps

Now, you can leave the chenille long like in the photo, or trim it down to a more cropped looking thorax. I tied some both ways and both look like they will fish equally well. The idea of leaving it long is for a greater flash in muddy water. Maybe the trimmed down version, which looks more like a thorax than hackle, will be more appropriate in less murky waters. The dubbing has good depth and the antron fibers add good highlights. The opposum also seems to have a "flash" or a shine to it of its own.

This is a experimental nymph. I'm looking forward to feedback on the water. I designed it for off colored water, mainly for warmwater species. I usually don't like things too flashy for trout, but in off water this might be effective for them with the trimmed down chenille.

My brother also suggested that a short Hare's Ear Nymph style tail might be effective, but I wanted to start the body on the curve of the shank. If you want the tail don't start the body dubbing so far down the shank.

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Stiff

Nice Flies everyone!!

Mine are pretty simple and self explainitory.... Just copper wire, pheasant tails and Peacock Herl..

~T

IMG_4687.jpg

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-Marc V-

San Juan Carp Killer

SanJuanCarpKiller.jpg

Materials

Mustad 37160 Size 6

Thread: Red

Tail: Red Marabou and Pearl UV Crystal Flash

Body: Red Micro Chenille

Weight: Red Beads

Very Simple Tie...

1. Debard the hook, and slide on 1 to 3 beads.

2. Tie in a small tuff of marabou, then 6-8 strands of crystal flash.

3. Tie the micro chenille in by the butt.

4. Whip finish, and cut thread.

5. Push the beads back to the rear of the hook, and reattach thread about a third of the hook shank back from the eye.

6. Pull the micro chenille forward, and tie down.

7. Make around 6 turns of thread in front of the micro chenille to make it stand up, then whip finish.

8. Melt tip of micro chenille.

9. Use a Sharpie, or waterproof marker to put a dot on the micro chenille.

Borrowed this pattern/fly from a trout guide that loves to also fly for carp. He says the hook is the key. He's tried to use scud hooks, but has had much better hook up ratio with these mustads.

Also add between 1 to 3 beads depending how deep the fly will be fished. Leaving a space for the beads to slide around, and click together is another important aspect of the tie.

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