Guests - If You want access to member only forums on FM. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on Fishing Minnesota.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
GotOne

Grinding noise...left front wheel

Recommended Posts

GotOne    0
GotOne

So much good info here, I thought I would give this a try. 2000 durango, 4wd. 123,000.00 miles. The left front wheel area is making a grinding noise when vehicle in motion and turn to the left or right...louder when turning toward left. Newer brakes. The guy at the service station down the road told me what it was but I forgot. How hard would it be to fix? Thanks in advance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Valv    0
Valv

Are you sure it's not the disk dust protector rubbing on rotor or a little rock stuck there ? Try the easy stuff first.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ralph Wiggum    0
Ralph Wiggum

Could be a wheel bearing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Eckie    0
Eckie

Have you heard any "clunking"? Although you mentioned the noise is a "grinding sound", it might also be the ball joints. I do know that Durango's in that era had a major problem with those and Dodge issued a recall for them. Think it affected over 500,000 from 2000 to 2003.

Here's the info I could find.

2000 DODGE DURANGO SUSPENSION:FRONT:CONTROL ARM:UPPER BALL JOINT

Recall Date: 12/21/2004

Summary:

ON CERTAIN SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES AND PICKUP TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE (4X4), IF MOISTURE LEAKS INTO THE FRONT SUSPENSION UPPER BALL JOINT, EVACUATION OF THE LUBRICANT AND CORROSION OF THE JOINT MAY CAUSE THE JOINT TO WEAR OVER AN EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME. THIS COULD CAUSE A CLUNKING NOISE IN THE FRONT SUSPENSION, WHICH MAY NOT ALWAYS BE HEARD BY THE VEHICLE OCCUPANTS.

Consequence:

EXCESSIVE WEAR IN THE UPPER BALL JOINT MAY ALLOW IT TO SEPARATE, WHICH COULD RESULT IN LOSS OF CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE.

Remedy:

DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE FRONT SUSPENSION UPPER BALL JOINTS. THIS SAFETY IMPROVEMENT CAMPAIGN BEGAN ON DECEMBER 21, 2004. OWNERS CAN CONTACT DAIMLERCHRYSLER AT 1-800-853-1403.

Potential Units Affected: 592707

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hanson    1
hanson

I would guess Wheel Bearing as well.

Chevy/GMC's are notorious for the Left-Front wheel bearing going out. I suppose Dodge could have a similar common issue.

Does it sound like a metal on metal grinding, or squeeking?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GotOne    0
GotOne

Thanks all,

We did the recall. Didn't check for debris. Guy at service station didn't say wheel bearing. He knew right away when test driving it what it was..just can think of what he said. He did say wheel bearing, brakes, rotors, etc had to come off to get at part. I'm have about as much talent working on vehicles as well...I just learned how to do a brake job yesterday on my ram. Before that changing oil was a big deal:) Sounds like something is rubbing/grinding that increases with speed and gets louder turning wheel to left and not as loud turning to right..going straight, not that noticeable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Shack    16
Shack

Axle U-joint?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bucketmouth64    1
bucketmouth64

I had a similar noise on my explorer, but I described it as a growling noise. Ended up having my lower ball joint replaced.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
upnorth    2
upnorth

Sounds like a CV joint going out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8-Ball    0
8-Ball

Had this recently on our Explorer. Was the bearing and hub assembly-had it replaced, no more issues...Can't complain, I guess. She has 190K on her.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Jeremy airjer W    21
Jeremy airjer W

Quote:

Sounds like a CV joint going out.


Typically those will make a clicking noise. usually under acceleration and more so when turning and accelerating.

I can't think of any service that would involve removing the bearing besides replacing the bearing. They may have referred to it as a hub assembly which is the same thing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GotOne    0
GotOne

Thanks everybody. Whats approx cost to replace bearing?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8-Ball    0
8-Ball

Wall- Cost was around 500 including labor. This was at least 200 cheaper than a dealer shop (we had a friend do it for peanuts). Expect quotes for bearing/hub assembly + labor in the 7-800$ range...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PierBridge    0
PierBridge

That sounds a bit high!

Do we even know it's a wheel bearing yet?

Let's find out for sure what's wrong before you get carved up paying for something that may not even be the problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ralph Wiggum    0
Ralph Wiggum

That does sound high. Granted it's a different vehicle, but we had to do both front bearings on my fiancee's car last summer and I think it was between $500-$600 for both.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GotOne    0
GotOne

Thanks again. It is the front bearing. It threw me when the mechanic said to "remove the hub assembly". Anyway, cost is 185.00 part and 85.00lbr. How hard is it to do and is it a part one could get used at a junk yard?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Shack    16
Shack

A used bearing is like screwing in a use light bulb. No one knows how long it will last!

For that price, you can not go wrong. On a wheel bearing on the front of a 2000 dodge and if you have to ask how hard is it, I think that price look pretty good to me grin.gif.

Get it done and over with and spend the weekend afternoon watching the vikes or hunting or fishing.

Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Jeremy airjer W    21
Jeremy airjer W

Quote:

Anyway, cost is 185.00 part and 85.00lbr. How hard is it to do and is it a part one could get used at a junk yard?


The junk yard will probably want to sell you the entire knuckle.

If I remember correctly there are three bolts holding it in. The hardest part is either separating the bearing from the knuckle once the bolts are out or taking of the axle nut. It is also absolutely critical to torque the axle nut to the proper spec. If you don't the bearing will likely not last long.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
iffwalleyes    0
iffwalleyes

My Left wheel bearing assembly on my Duramax ran my about $300-400 something like that and that is for a heavy duty so it shouldn't be more than that. That is the complete new assmebly as you couldn't just get the bearing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Scott K    28
Scott K

I show it is .8 hr labor, and $222.00 for bearing w/o 4 wheel abs, and $305 with 4 wheel abs. This is dealer oe parts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GotOne    0
GotOne

I think I'll have it done. Sounds like I got a good price. Once again, thanks for all your help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Shack    16
Shack

SP450100.jpg

Here is the part! Its sealed and should be easy to do! But to pay a shop .5 to 1.0 hours of labor to do it is not that much! In my mind, I would repair it my self!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Jim Uran    377
Jim Uran

if it's been making that sound for a bit chances are it'll be a son of a gun to get off. But it is easy. Just like a brake job. There is three bolts behind the hub assembly that you have to remove and pound that sucker off, after you take off the caliper and rotor and heat shield of course. I've changed a few. Problem is getting the axel nut off if you don't have the right gear it's pointless.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
vern    0
vern

This is wierd Wallabee! First you posted your Pool 2 report from Saturday which was identical to mine & now you have the same truck problem. I just posted this question 3 days ago on a different fishing site - walleye central. I haven't taken my truck in yet but the responses here are helpful.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • monstermoose78
      Still out working Finn most days, because being laid off I have a little more time for it. Seeing it is warm I keep the sessions short. Finn is been dropping the dummies on my feet just as I want him to do. I can't wait for hunting season as I know Finn as excited as I am.
    • delcecchi
      See you next year, we are pulling out this week and it sounds like you were only up for the weekend.   Sorry I didn't quite have the nerve to climb the steps and introduce myself.   I guess I am not big on just showing up at the door. 
    • Surface Tension
      Lester River-McQuade area.   Last time out we found bait and Lake Trout 100-120'  taken off downriggers and stacked lines over 145-175' of water.  That can change day to day so keep an eye on the sonar.   Silver Flasher w/Fly, Water Mellon, Monkey Puke, Silver w/green/blue crushed ice spoons working well for us.  Last 2 times out were during midday and bright skies trolling around 2 MPH.   If you put in at Rice's Point bring rubber boots and watch your step as the beginning of the dock is under water.
         
    • Surface Tension
      So all 3 banks are blowing fuses with the charger outside the boat hooked to a battery with nothing else connected to it?   Try a different battery.  If your still blowing fuses I wouldn't use the charger.  
    • Surface Tension
      Buy The Boat. 
    • OhioVike
      Labor day will be a busy weekend.  If you are around after the weekend, Maybe we can grab a beer.  I was going to say the landing, but maybe something else....WBL?
    • guitpic
      Tx for the replies
    • papadarv
      Fuses are blowing for a reason most likely an undesirable reason. Much better solution to fix the problem than eliminating the fuse. Eventually the sort or item causing the fuse to blow will eventually make it to the wires. Just a thought, although not recommend, there is enough battery current where you can stick weld 11 gage steel with a 12 volt battery. Continued or prolonged welding (same as a short) could cause to battery to explode. Word of caution, led acid batteries are filled with sulfuric acid. 
    • papadarv
      I agree with del, used boats are more than adequate. I bought a 1990 Crestliner Sport for $5,100 in 2013. Did some floor and live well work, added co-pilot to the trolling motor, Vexilar SonarPhone connected to my iPad, and a tablet with the Navionics Boating App for GPS. Welded verses rivet hull was my desire. Tops out at 43 mph with 115hp merc 2 stroke. Handles the 4' Ottertail waves quite well. Picture of boat on Ottertail which I fish several times yearly along with other Ottertail County lakes and lakes closer to home I frequent often. At 73 its easy to launch / take-out. Look for a family owner, one that uses the boat once or twice a month the boat/motor will have limited hours of use on it. In my opinion the used boat is the only way to go. 
    • h8go4s
      Here's a quote from the MinnKota digital onboard charge manual. "INLINE FUSE The output cord has an inline fuse on the RED end. The fuse serves as protection from surges and short circuits caused by a damaged charger output cable. If a fuse blows, replace it with a 30 amp ATC 32V automotive fuse. Improper battery connections will normally not cause a fuse to blow since this is handled by the internal circuitry of the charger."