How Tough and Durable are Lunds? Or how do you drive ur boat in rough waters:?

[TSCTSC]

If you are going over 2-3 swells at 30-36mph and the boat is hitting the waves hard like falling from 1-2 feet, is this ok for the boat or not?

Question is, in rough water, short of making sure that we dun capsize, how do you guys drive the boat? Thanks

[riverrat56]

I don't know if it is good for the boat, but when it gets windy and we need to get off the lake in a hurry we run WFO ( Wide Friking Open ) the whole way acrossed the lake, that would be in a 16 ft Rebel with a 40 horse on the back, pushes 31-32 mph.

[fishlakeman]

I'd say there pretty darn durable! Just look at how many rivets are on their new boats. On opener, I was hitting 4-5 foot swells at WOT (wide open throttle) going 43 mph in my 18 foot Explorer. I hit some that sent the whole boat out of the water including the prop. My back hurt a little bit after we got to shore, but the boat stood up to the abuse. We were running this boat that hard because it was better to stay on top of the waves than cruse at 30 mph and get swamped and take a beating. There's no doubt in my mind that these are tough boats, they'll hold up to the pressure!

[Guest]

I have a glass tiller boat that's just shy of 18 foot.

In 2 footers, no problem, I go as fast as I want. In anything bigger than 3 footers,

it depends on which way the wind is. I may slow down a little bit because I don't like

my gear getting bounced around.

As for 4 or 5-foot waves going low forties in an 18-foot boat? It may be possible, but I haven't seen it.

In waves that big I slow down because it's not worth trashing my boat or gear to get off

the lake a little sooner, unless there is lightning.

The bottom line is respect the waves and go the speed your comfortable with.

I do know that I can take the bigger waves faster in my new glass boat compared

to my old boat, a Tournament Pro 175 Alumacraft tiller. And I thought that boat had a decent ride.

Lunds are great boats, 2-3 foot waves no problems.

[fishlakeman]

Yes, it is possible to do low 40's in those conditions. Let's just say I thought my kidneys were going to explode when we would hit the waves wrong. Air ride seats helped, but not that much Like I said earlier, it was better to go WOT than crusing at a slower speed. We were going with the break of the waves (wind at our back), so going fast allowed us to span the gap of the wave most of the time, where we hit each wave like a snowboard jump when we were crusing around 30. Yea, we did hit some the wrong way and that sent us flying, but our gear was all arranged well where it didn't mess up our tackle too badly. That was the last time on the lake for that weekend .

[BillP]

In general, your Lund should take anything you can. A lot depends on how it's set up (not overpowered, trim, and that sort of thing) but if you can tolerate it reasonably, the hull should. Now, your electronics and other add-ons are another story. When something shakes loose, it gets damaged in a hurry in rough weather.

[kslipsinker]

My little brother had a 16' Lund that he would push pretty hard in windy conditions. It started to leak, so he took it to a dealer. Had 6 rivets blown out. He traded it for a 18' Lund Tyee. Now that boat could handle rough water. It would pound your butt up to your armpits, but the boat could handle it.

[TSCTSC]

Thanks for your posts. I figured the same as you guys - That in big waves, sometimes, it might be better to go a little faster than slower to try to plane over the larger swells. Hell of a bumpy ride tho' but better than getting swamped over with the swells than the wind. We experience a quite a bit of jolt but I was looking around and everyone seemed to be hitting the waves the same way, so I figured that it was not too wrong a thing for me to go like 32-36 mph over 2-3 foot wells. Wind that day on Mille Lacs was supposed to be 15-20mph. It was really choppy.

Hmmm...so the bad thing is that things might get shaken loose and rivets may pop, huh? Well..I have been checking my bilge and so far so good.

In the same tune...does this mean that riveted boats are stronger than welded boats like CR for taking such a beating? I mean, airplanes are all riveted and they do take quite a beating with turbulence and are supposed to continue to stay up right?

[Fisher Dave]

Even attempting to do 40 mph in 4' waves.. you guys are asking mother nature to kill you, and your passengers. People might be exagerating(sp?) just a little on the size of the waves.. big waves sometimes look bigger than what they are... either way, its just plain crazy to push your boat too far when offshore, or anywhere.. if it does fail, you may not have the chance to stand on shore again.. or an occupant of your boat.

My cousin folded his boat in half on lake of the woods when the wind picked up.. he stayed on top.. he was lucky. Previous to that, it was common for him to fun wide open in 3'+ waves. I believe he was running a 175hp(unsure but I know its maxed) on an 18" lund.. yes, with more power it is possible to get *on top* of them big waves, my uncle with the same boat couldnt do it with a 115... but is it worth the risk?

If I am in the boat with 5' waves and the driver is running wide open in a panic.. there is going to be a boxing match if/when we reach the shore.

[fiskyknut]

Quote:

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As for 4 or 5-foot waves going low forties in an 18-foot boat? It may be possible, but I haven't seen it.

---

Skindog I hear you, seen alot of 4-5 foot days on LOTW, my brother had one of those big and deep glass targa walleye boats, very good in the rough stuff too and we could'nt make that kind of speed in an honest 4-5 foot chop, following sea or not! Sounds like a great recipe to spear a wave and maybe get yourself on the MaxX list.

Then again 1 persons 4-5 footer is another persons 2-3 footer too.

You all be carefull out there anyhow....YeeeeHaw!

fiskyknut

[Thomas]

I back the speed to 22-25 mph in big waves. Stay and control and saves a beating on the boat and your butt.

[fishlakeman]

Ok, Ok, I hear ya all, Maybe they weren't 5 footers, I guess I didn't take out the tape measure and measure them. All I know is that when we were idle trying to fish, and when we were in the gap of the wave, all you would see was water on each side when sitting down. I guess I havent had the experience of fishing consistently on huge waters (LOW, Mille Lacs) because I used to have a smaller boat that would be risky to take out on big water. I was on OtterTail Lake (14,000 acres) on the south east end, where there was a constant 30mph wind from the Northwest and even heavier gusts. I have fished this lake for 15 years, and had never been fishing in such large waves before. My spedometer read between 40-43mph, and on calmer days when I have looked, matches up pretty even with my 332-C gps speed. I didn't look at the gps speed as I was trying to get back to the landing safely and as dry as possible. It is very possible the speedmeter was off and I was completely wrong. We have the oh-sh%! handles right next to the seats and they were needed to remain in the boat. I guess I'm young and like to get the adrenaline pumping every once and a while, is that so bad? I felt I was in full control of the boat at all times, it seems when your riding parallel with the waves is when you can get into some scary situations, not directly perpendicular with them. Sorry if I misinformed you as to how big the waves were. I guess the point of my post was to say that Lund boats are built pretty solid, and to add to that topic, I used to run a 16 ft Lund Predator on OT and it went through its' share of rough weather, and I never had any problems with the rivets loosening in the 15 years of use. (until the recent storm that washed it up onto shore and dented it up beyond repair )

[Ufatz]

AS an old Coast Guard licensed captain might I suggest a couple of things: running a boat 30-35 mph in honest 4-5 foot seas (not swells)* would be considered poor seamanship. And rather than slam head on into them you will find that quartering into them will reduce the pounding, in any size chop.

*swell is defined as the natural, ryythmic rise and fall of the ocean.Seas are wind created waves.

Slow down and live.

[nolte]

UFatz

Slowing down a bit and quartering into them is what we have always done when it gets a little rough. It's not so hard on the back either. Usually in these situations you're going to get wet, so buzzing as fast as you can to shore isn't going to change that. An immediate danger like lightning or extreme wind gust are a different scenario.

Could someone clarify the difference on wave sizes and swells for me. I was in AK and the swells(I think) were larger than anything I've been on inland. We were one a 30 ft boat and when you looked on the horizon when you were in the bottome of the swell all you could see was the top of the wave. Most of the inland lakes when the wind gets going you have the waves that crest or break. It has something to do with wind speed and water depth or something. We need one of these old sea dogs on here to straighten us inlanders out.

[Valv]

For what I gathered in the past lake waves are different from sea waves. Even Lake Superior has shorter span waves than an ocean, that was the reason probably the Fitzgerald sunk, they weren't built to take large but frequent waves.

I agree, we need a sea captain here to lighten us up....

[Ufatz]

Ocean swells are driven by many factors, including lunar pull, earths rotation, seasons and, to some extent by the weather (i.e. typhoonetc.) The big swells mentioned by one poster also have to do with the movement of the water from one depth to another. As water is moved toward a shallower shelf for example, the waves will be higher and move faster. The "seas" you guys are talking about on inland waters are nearly always generated by winds, but barometric pressure might also have an effect. Lake Superior is large enough to generate "swells" but they are formed in the same way as an open ocean. The swell can be three feet....and on top of it you can have a three foot sea. So from bottom to top you have six feet. Then you can factor in the speed or sea and swell and we can get way out into stuff most guys around here don't need.Ha! Any help?

[HARPOON-OR-BUST]

IF YOU WERE RUNNING THAT FAST THAT DAY AND GOT IN OK, WITHOUT WRECKING ANYTHING I WOULD CONSIDER IT A GOOD DAY! I WOULDN'T SUGGEST DOING THAT VERY OFTEN BECAUSE AFTER TIME SOMETHING IS GOING TO BREAK. LUNDS ARE TOUGH BOATS I AGREE BUT NOTHING CAN WITHSTAND THAT KIND OF ABUSE FOR VERY LONG, SOMETHINGS GOTTA GIVE. I WOULD TAKE A PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER INTO THE BOAT AND CHECK THE SCREWS BECAUSE I AM SURE THAT SOME ARE LOOSE. I HAVE A 2025 PRO-V AND I KNOW FOR A FACT I HAVE NEVER RAN CLOSE TO THAT KIND OF SPEED EVEN IN 3 FOOTERS. UNLESS YOU ARE BEING CHASED BY A FUNNEL ON MILLE LACS! REMEMBER YOU CAN DRIVE LIKE H*LL TO GET GET TO SHORE BUT IF YOU DON'T MAKE IT WHATS THE POINT?

[fishlakeman]

Point taken from all of you, sounds like what I did was pretty stupid, and I guess the more I look at it, it was. Yes, I did have to go through the boat and tighten up the bolts on the depth finder and 3 of the seats to the pedistals. This was about the 10th time out in the new boat and I guess I wanted to see what it was capable of in rough conditions. There was heavy rains coming fast, so I wanted to beat the downpour.

Question: Could you describe in depth what quartering a wave is? I guess I always thought the safest way to hit a wave was straight on

[bigeyes]

TSC- I think they are pretty tough! I had a 1660 pro v tiller from when I was young punk about 20 year old and ran it for a few season on Mille lacs, low, winnie etc. My top end was around 30 mph but the only speed I knew was wide open back then. I did put an 8" crack the hull on a alumacraft competitor in 4-5's on LOW! I regularly had boat and motor out of the water launching waves when I could find somebody crazy enough to let me drive. Now that I am a little older I back it down quite a bit as most of my fishing partners simply can't take the pounding anymore(or me either). I agree with a earlier post the boat can take as much a you can. My question is, why would you want beat yourself and your equiptment up like that, unless you have youth on your side. I have replaced many crackedseat bases, broken seats, pedestals and seen aluminum gunnels kink and bend. BTW it is really not that rough to go in 4-5's if you are going directly across the waves, it is not real fun to do the surge thing going with them but can be done. To go into them requires you to be about as crazy as the motorcross/WSA guys.

[HARPOON-OR-BUST]

I THINK EVERYONE WAS MORE CONCERNED WITH YOUR SAFETY AND YOUR EQUIPMENT. DON'T TAKE IT PERSONAL. WE'D HATE TO SEE YOU DAMAGE YOUR NEW BOAT.

WHEN TALKING QUARTERING A WAVE THEY ARE MEANING....YOU WOULD BE GOING AT A 45 ACROSS THEM. SO IF THEY WERE COMING STRAIGHT OUT OF THE NORTH YOU WOULD BE GOING NW OR NE. IT MIGHT BE SAFER TO GO STRAIGHT ON AS FAR AS HANDELING BUT IS USUALLY ROUGHER. YOU TEND TO GET A LITTLE WETTER WHEN QUARTERING IN STRONG WINDS BUT IS USUALLY A LITTLE GENTLER ON THE EQUIPMENT.

IF YOU ARE GOING STRAIGHT INTO A WAVE AND THEY AREN'T TOO LARGE (ENOUGH TO BREAK OVER THE BOW) THEN I LIKE TO FILL MY FRONT LIVE WELL AND KEEP THE MOTOR TRIMMED ALL THE WAY DOWN TO PREVENT THAT KNOWN ALUMINUM "SLAP" ON THE WATER. IF THE BOAT SPEARS THE WAVES AND YOU TAKE WATER OVER THE BOW THEN YOU NEED TO TRIM IT UP ACCORDINLY TO GET THE BOW LIFT YOU NEED. THATS JUST MY 2 CENTS.

I AM NO EXPERT EITHER AND SOME DAYS STUFF JUST GETS BEAT UP!

[upnorth]

I think most people over estimate the size of waves that are out there. A true 4 foot wave, when you are at the bottom you have to look up a ways to see over it. I have been out in some actual 3 footers and in my 17 foot deep v I could barely see over the top of the waves when I was down in the bottom of the waves. Sure as hell wasn't gonna do 35 mph in those.

[LocalGuide]

A couple of years ago we were fishing with guides on a reservoir in Canada. The morning weather was nice and we where hammering the walleyes. Well at about 2PM we could see a dark cloud off to the west. At the time we were about 7 miles from the landing.

The storm came rolling right down the lake and hit hard. The winds picked up and so did the waves. Now I am not kidding but on the reservoir the "rollers" (waves that didn't break or have "whitecaps" and are a little more spread out) where I bet a true 6' high! When you where in the bottom of wave, all you could see is the next one infront of you and not even see over it. We got drenched even with a rain suit on.

They just ran fast enough to go up and down the waves gently otherwise we just as well could have been in a submarine. The boats they had were 19' crestliner boats with a full windshield. It was freaky but there was no where to stay next to shore and there was the chance of hail. If it wasnt for the guides and their knowledge in this situation, who knows what would of happened.

Ever since then I have never seen a wave that high yet and I dont care to.

I now have a 185 Alumacraft TP. That boat can take a beating on rough water. Normally in waves up to about 3' high I just run it WFO and the boat doesn't really launch. Once the boat starts to launch and the motor comes out of the water then I slow it down and take it easy. But I'm still young yet too so I can take a beating also.

All I can say is the bigger the boat the better in big waves. And a glass boat would be the best since they "cut" water and don't ride over it like aluminum boat.

[TSCTSC]

NIce story.

But you mean to say that Fibreglass boats ride better in rough water? Why? Is it the shape of the hull or is it the weight? Is fibreglass tougher than aluminium when it comes to pounding on the water?

Thanks

[LocalGuide]

Well in my eyes a Ranger is the best boat out there hands down. Happens to be that you pay for the quality too.

Reasons that fiberglass is better than welded or riveted hulls is quite good. A Ranger, for example, is all fiberglass, so it cuts/absorbs big blows from waves much better. Its able to cut waves when a aluminum boat rides over them or crashes into them. Also they are known for flared out bow contours giving them their dry rides and forcing water out away from the boat. Their handling is better and are a super stable boat.

Its just a step (or 2) higher than a aluminum boat. I'm sure someone else can explain some more about it since I don't know a ton.

So to answer your questions. The Rangers weight is the same as a aluminum boat, the shape of the hull plays a big role and so does the strength. They are stronger but are able to take waves easier.

But like the difference between a Ranger and Skeeter is a Ranger has no wood in it. So there is no loose screws that you have to tighten up over and over. And since a Ranger is a one piece boat they are a much smoother ride taking big waves like they are candy.

[Surface Tension]

A boat is like a car, you can drive it like you stole it or drive it with care. You know whats better for the boat and safer.

Biggest reason why some glass boats cut water better then aluminum is because of hull design. In an aluminum boat your looking for a long rake on the bow tapering into a sharp V throughout the hull all the way to the transom. Being alulmium your working with angles, thats all you can do. With a glass boat your looking for that same long rake with a V but the big difference is how that hull tapers in from the keel with a curve not an angle.

[luckey]

My friend has a 3year old 19 foot Lund pro V. Last year (after a tough outing on Cass lake) he noticed several places in the hull that were caved in. This looked like the old battle ships where you can see the metal bent in in between the ribs. Lund would not pick up the tab because they said he hit rocks. This was BS because rocks would leave a scar or sharp dent, not a smoth cave in. Anyway, he will have to take it easy in the future.

[Willy]

I agree with what all of you guys said. People always overestimate the size of the waves. If you are out in honest 4-5 footers, you're not going to be running wide open. Even in a glass boat it'd be hard to do without beating something up. A 3 footer is plenty big and when they are out, I still don't think I go wide open. My cousin has a pass me down boat that was beat on Mille Lacs for years by my uncle and him. The bottom is pounded in from the big waves hitting them too hard.

As far as Lunds, they are plenty durable, but you have to be smart about how you run them, just like anything else.

[Gus]

We took a housboat vacation last year on Lake of the woods. The owners had a boat that they used to get supplies out to the houseboats and to get to emergency calls etc. I had never seen a boat like it and asked them what kind it was. Turns out it was a custom made boat. Diamond plate aluminum decking, THICK hull, all welded alum boat. The thing looked like a tank on water. Their comments were that "even the lund's didn't hold up after a couple of years service" (quote was to the best of my memory.) I found that interesting because I would never have thought you could trash a Lund hull. I don't know what kind of abuse they put it through but it made me think twice about how I treat my boat on a rough day.

[Gissert]

Were you at Floating Lodges Housboats? That boat you described sounds like thier diesel powered work boats. Man, those things are really built to the hilt.

[Gus]

I do not think that was the place, For the life of me I can't remember exactly the name. It was out of Siox narrows and may have been just called "lake of the woods houseboats". The boat had a big ole 200+ HP outboard on it.

[eyepatrol]

I've seen a lot of posts on here from the aluminum boat owners, so, speaking from the fiberglass side, I'd say that what others are writing about fiberglass boats is pretty well right on. I've got a Warrior that I've owned now for 7 years. I don't believe I've been in 4' waves, but certainly 3'ers. As for strength of the hull...aluminum is a metal, and metal dents. Fiberglass is solid, and will crack. Manufacturers can shape the fiberglass to their desired curves, etc., thus the constructability of fiberglass makes them better for handling (either rough or calm water), manuverability (basically the same as handling) and durability. The way Warrior shapes their hulls makes the water from waves shoot outward and downward. Aluminum splashes outward and upward, making for a wetter ride if you don't have a dual counsol (and at times even if you have a dual counsol).

As for riding rough waves, I've done WFO, quartering, and slower head-on or with waves. The WFO option is NOT the best option in my opinion. Sure, you can skip across the tops of waves, but as said by others, you'll hurt your equipment and yourself (back and GROIN!). Quartering works well, although it can be a wetter ride. I prefer to either go head on against the waves or with the waves keeping the nose of my boat pointed upwards. Trimming the motor can be an option and will put the point of the boat higher up in the air, but I prefer to use the throttle and run about 1/4 open to keep the point of the boat in the air. It's a much slower ride this way, but it keeps the waves hitting the bottom of the boat instead of risking the torpedo affect. My main goal in big waves is to get to calm waters, and so whatever boat manuevers it requires to get there, that's what I'll use (quartering or against the waves). Once in calm water, then obviously one can speed up.

Speaking from experience though, I've done the WFO thing and the end result was a SORE back and my 9.9 kicker that nearly ripped off the back end. It was hanging by one tightening bolt by the time I reached dock. Plus, the bouncing made the shaft fall back down into the water, which is never a good thing.

Anyway, that's my opinions and experiences. Unless there is lightening or extremely severe weather heading your way, it's best to slow down and quarter or go head on, not fast.