Removing Benches from and Aluminum

[czl99]

I have a 14ft alumacraft with three bench seats in it. There is a u shaped one by the motor in back, and two other ones in middle and front. I was wondering if it is possible to take the two benches out it make more room. There is already a wood floor in it that was made by the previous owner. If it is possible how do you go about doing it.

Thanks for any information

[Moose-Hunter]

Can it be done? Yes. I've seen several boats converted to flat floors. HOWEVER.... The seats you remove are also used as support for the hull. My neighbor removed a couple seats from an older Grumman and found it to be a bit weak after the conversion. He still uses it but had to rename it from Silver Minnow to Flexible Flyer.

I've not done this conversion myself but I'm sure others will chime in shortly with some good advice...

Good luck on your project.

[uffdapete]

I removed one bench seat from an S16 Lund and it worked out well. The middle full seat was removed to put a casting deck that extended from the back of the front full seat to the little triangle in front. It didn't affect the stablility at all but there were still 2 full seats also.

My brother had an mid to late 80's Grumman with no modifications that was so flimsy he had to put a stabilizer bar from gunwhale to gunwhale 4 feet behind the front seat. Real handy that was -:)

[Fisher Dave]

Yes, it can be done.

I'm trying to picture the exact boat you have, I remember some of the old lunds having the U shaped seat in the rear, but not alumacraft.

If your boat has the rear seat, 2 full bench seats, and the little triangular seat at the very front of the boat... or if its a really old boat with the hood on it... You can remove the bench in front of the rear seat and still be seaworthy. Do not remove the tiny seat at the bow if there is one, or the bench that is located up near the bow(the bench that is about 4' back from the bow. This bench, and the rear seat provide the structural integrity of your boat. If the bench must be removed for your layout ideas, you will have to re-enforce the front 30% of the boat.. if that is your plan, seek the advise of professionals.

If you do pull the bench in front of the rear most seat, a handy addition to your boat is either a rod locker, or livewell running from the rear bench to whatever you have in the front. These additions are not only handy, but it also adds some support.

[MinnesotaMuskie]

I acquired an older Lund with the U-seat in the rear in some horse trading I did. A previous owner removed all the seats excpet the front small seat and the rear U-seat.

AS described earlier...it shousl be called the Flexible Flyer...wish I would have thought of that.

It still catches more fish than all my buddies new rigs in Cananda.

[Steve Bakken]

One things that we always do when we perform this conversion at the shop is to replace the bench with some other form of structural support. All that flexing on an unsupported boat will lead to leaky rivets. One option is to leave about a 1 foot stub on both sides. That way you have the walk-through effect, but the sidewalls still have their support. Another thing we have done is to build a rod locker or some other form of storage unit and make sure that is is attached to both the sidewall and the floor.

[fishin789]

If you are removing one or more of the bench seats are you not also removing some of the flotation that is molded under the bench seats? Doesn't this have to be replaced somewhere else in the boat to keep it's level flotation?

[Steve Bakken]

You're absolutely right. Any time that floatation is removed, it needs to be replaced. There are alot of options here. Up under the gunwhales is a good place to hide extra foam, also under the floor if you install one. Up under the bow, and under the splashwell are also good spots.

[gunflint]

Steve,

The foam that's under the seat affects floatation? I was planning on removing the foam from the rear bench and storing batteries in there. In my boat the conversion that you guys are talking about has already been done with the exception of the rear bench. The foam that's in there now is free floating (not attached to anything.) How does this affect floatation?

Also, is there any regulations about removing the foam? I thought that the foam under the bench seats was to keep the boat afloat in case you capsize. Thanks

[bwtrout]

Quote:

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I thought that the foam under the bench seats was to keep the boat afloat in case you capsize.

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Correct.

[Surface Tension]

I've done it but like earlier posts stated you have to some how add support and flotation. If you have a floor then add the flotation under that. Use a closed cell foam otherwise it'll suck up water. Once it sucks up water it'll never dry and you have that added add weight, it'll also rot the floor out from underneath. When you add the flotation you don't want to restrict the water from flowing to the stern either.

A flexible boat isn't safe, that flexing will loosen rivets and it'll weaken the aluminum. Flexing the entire length of the boat isn't so bad but theres going to be a point where the flexing ends. At that point the metal will fatigue. Kinda like taking a coat hanger and continuing to bend it back and forth till it breaks off. As Steve said add support thats attached to the floor and to the side of the boat by using live wells, rod lockers and storage compartments.

[gunflint]

When you guys say that floatation must be replaced, is that by law? Or is it a saftey concern. I will be replacing the deck on my boat next winter. It (the boat) has the proper support now with partial benches and support brackets. I plan to remove those and replace them with rod storage and a livewell.

I don't think the deck that is on there now has any floatation material underneath. The deck I relace it with will. But this year I would really like to get the batteries away from my feet and stow them under the bench.

[Giant_Jackpot]

Doesn’t the foam also keep the boat from going to the bottom if it fills up with water? I’m sure here in Minnesota, there are thousands of boats that have undergone overhauls like you are planning and that most of the foam is gone. I am not sure about the legalities but are you going to take your kids out in the boat? If it is just you in the boat then go for it, but if you are responsible for the safety of others, then you might want to check with the DNR and see what they say. Also, if you ran into trouble, your insurance may not cover you if they find out you removed the foam.

[czl99]

How do you go about taking the benchs out with out messing up the walls of my boat? Wont it leave holes in the side of your boat where the benchs were attached to the walls? When I take the benchs out can the foam that is in the benchs be reused or do i have to buy new foam?

[gunflint]

cz199,

That way it was done to my boat was to leave about 8 inches of the bench attached to the gunnel. Then two metal support straps were added from the top of the gunnel to the 8 inch section of bench. It doesn't sound pretty but they replaced the (8 inch sections)of bench top with plywood and painted them. They actualy make handy holders for many things. And the straps protect extra rods.

Mine is a 16 ft. They left the rear bench in place and mounted a 4 inch pedistal base for a swivel seat. I would like to put a hinged wooden top on the bench and put my batteries in there and maybe store rain gear.

unless of course I hit the lottery. But that would be a whole other post.

[Fisher Dave]

You have to drill out the rivets to remove the bench. You can plug the holes with marine rivets or small, short bolts if desired... Goop works too. I'm sure there are 50 products that will plug the holes. Most products can be painted over to help cover them up... I choose fishability and comfort over appearance any day. I dont care for *jumping hurdles* in the boat either to get from front to rear, or vise versa.

I will be going through the same task this year.. bench is already removed, but I am going with a full aluminum interior to keep the weight down for use while duck hunting. Painted metal may not be as cozy, but it will be durable and light.

I will be installing a flat floor, large livewell(very long skinny type) in which I will put a removable bucket baitwell at each end. On the other side I will have a rod locker that will handle 4-6 7' rods, and that will also double as storage for the lights when not in use. I will have a deck front and rear(5' in front, 2 1/2' in the rear). The fuse block will be installed on the wall of the cavity for the livewell and other electronics in the vacancy is that the livewell pump, and recirculating pump are mounted on the livewell.. this area will also be partially filled with foam for flotation, but only to an extent the hoses and pumps will be accessable for replacement if ever needed. The rear deck will have access to the gas tank and batteries. The front deck I will put a dry storage box underneath with a water tight hatch, and fill the rest of the vacancy with foam. I will build a small built in tackle box for on the very nose of the boat that will take smaller removable tackle trays. I will also inject foam under the flat floor after making a drainage to channel the water to the rear of the boat.

In the end, I wont have the luxury of carpet(by choice unless I find some decent camo), but I will have a safe, sturdy, light, quiet 15' boat that is comfortable to fish/hunt up to 3 people. The 3rd seat will be one of the removable seat brackets mounted on top of the livewell cavity so its not in the way when not used.

[gunflint]

Boy am I gonna have some questions for you next winter.

[Fisher Dave]

gunflint ... find a couple day use permits for sag sometime this summer or fall and I'll let you see how it works for yourself... always looking for an excuse to go fishing.

[gunflint]

I got 4 so far 2 for July 2 for August and access to more. Get ahold of me sometime in June maybe we can work something out.