Replacing floor in 1977 Lund

[sparetime]

I have a 16' lund boat from 1977.  In the front area of the boat the floor is starting to get really soft, so after 39 years, it's time for a new floor.  

Has anyone done this and can tell me what to expect?  How thick is the flooring in the boat?  I assume I'll be replacing it with marine grade plywood.  The thickness will matter for replacing the console, rod locker etc.  The floor is covered in a vinyl type material, it's not carpet.  Any idea where to get this material.  Main section of the floor is 11' x 5 feet or so.  I can't tell if there are any seems in the floor.  Did Lund use one piece or are there seams in the floor?  Finding a 11x5 piece of marine grade isn't easy, so I assume there are seams.  

Just hoping someone with a little experience can point me in the right direction before I tear it apart.  

I plan to tear the existing floor out, and use that for the pattern on the new floor.  

Edited May 16, 2016 by sparetime

[Borch]

Lund didn't use marine grade in their older boats at least.  CDX in everyone I have been involved in replacing.  5/8 or 1/2" thickness.  Yes to seams.   I polyurethane coated mine, including edges when I replaced mine and I used marine grade.  Google boat vinyl flooring and you'll find lots of options.  I went with carpet from an eBay seller.  But many vinyl options too.  You'll find that you'll need to remove a lot of stuff just to get the old floor out, (livewells, rod lockers, etc).  If you use staples to secure material on back of flooring get stainless staples.  Steel staples don't last very long.  It took me a full weekend to replace mine with a little help.

[sparetime]

Great thanks.  

I'm curious about the vinyl flooring and how easy or difficult it is to install.  I'm assuming it is similar to installing a vinyl floor in a house.  Some type of mastic/glue and then the flooring is rolled out over it.  If the floor is in sections, is it possible to use one piece of vinyl.  Maybe when I pull the existing floor out I'll see how Lund did it originally.  

Hopefully I can find marine grade in the thickness I'm looking for.  

[papadarv]

I have done  3 floor replacements. 17' Bayliner, 16' Forester and my 17' Crestliner. The floor is either 5/8 or 3/4" plywood. Best Plywood to use is "Ground Contact" pressure treated. Comes both AC2 (green) or Cedar Tone (Cedar stained). I would not use Marine plywood or CDX untreated. Most ground contact are also mold and mildew treated. This stuff will outlast any Marine product and is readily available from Home Depot, Menards and others.

Yes you will have seams, but they are easy to deal with. Being 1977 the under structure is most likely wood. If your boat is fiberglass, the under structure is most likely built into the fiberglass hull. If Aluminum, its attached to the aluminum framing. Most wood framing in boats is 1". I would use the 5/4 pressure treated decking to replace the under structure. You will need a table saw to rip the planks to the desired width. 2x4 and 2x6 will add more weight. The fiberglass understructure is more difficult to deal with.

I would use slip resistance rubber flooring, same stuff used in most Wheel Houses and now showing up in a lot of new boat build. Stop by your local marine dealer or wheel house dealer to see this flooring. Its great stuff.

Borch is correct you need to remove a lot of stuff, almost everything, to get the floor out. Also make a detailed dimension drawing of the floor BEFORE you start to remove it. Much of the floor will crumble when you remove it. You may find when you remove the vinyl floor covering, the old plywood floor is coated with fiberglass from the floor and up the sides. You will need to cut the fiberglass coating. Use extream caution when cutting making sure you do not go too deep.

Enjoy the project, they are fun to do.

[sparetime]

Sorry, the boat is an aluminum hull.   So there is still possibly wood framing under the flat portion of the floor?

Thank you for the tip on the ground contact plywood.  Makes sense that it should be mold and mildew treated.  

All good information

[hayseed]

I would advise you to do some research concerning pressure treated wood products and aluminum. Everything I've read says they do not mix. Example: http://articles.philly.com/2008-11-14/living/25255860_1_pressure-treated-wood-copper-aluminum

http://www.yellawood.com/resources/fastener-info.aspx

 

[papadarv]

3 hours ago, sparetime said:

Sorry, the boat is an aluminum hull.   So there is still possibly wood framing under the flat portion of the floor?

Not sure when Lund went to welded under structure. Most likely its wood. Most of the Google 1977 Lund images show wood.

[Borch]

My 88 was aluminum stringers. I heard the same concerns with the treated so stayed away from it.  But the process and chemicals gave changed a lot in treated lumber in the past 10 years.  No sure if it's still a concern or not.

[hayseed]

I'm not sure myself, but the second link even addresses ground contact treated and it 's connection to aluminum. Guess it would best be considered a choice one would have to make and how long you want to keep a 77 model. I replaced the floor in my 82 with marine grade, but too early to tell if there are any problems. 

[papadarv]

5 hours ago, sparetime said:

Sorry, the boat is an aluminum hull.   So there is still possibly wood framing under the flat portion of the floor?

Not sure when Lund went to welded under structure. Most likely its wood. Most of the Google 1977 Lund images show wood.

Hayseed correct copper will corrode aluminum when in contact. Most pressure treated is made with copper chemicals. My bad. Go with marine.