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Posted

Just throwing this out there if maybe anyone could help me. I bought a Nils last season and am not happy with it. I believe the top part that is welded to the auger shaft is crooked. The issue is that at the end of the hole cut the darn thing wobbles so bad that I always feel like the cutting head is going to be messed up afterwords. I have tried rolling the shaft on a flat table and didn't seem bent. Sent the cutting head to Frank for sharpening and bought a new replacement that does the same. If anyone has a Nils that does not have this symptom in the Metro and would meet at a lake convenient to them for a bit swap to help me try to identify the problem for a couple holes I'd buy them a 12 pack of their favorite beverage. Jan 12-22 Jesse

Posted

Just got my power head and attached it to my blade shaft, hope all is well but I do not know=I will try it this weekend and let you know. Lotta money to shell out when you do not have a dealer in the metro (a metro with a lot of people and ice fishermen-curious that we do not have a dealer)

Posted

You probably know this already, but there is a right and wrong way to connect the head to shaft/auger.

I don't remember offhand but the flat side goes to one side, then put the bolt in and tighten securely. Then put the nut on and tighten the nut while holding the bolt. Sometimes this will cure the wobbles.

Posted

Is it a power point head? I had the same issue with the 8" PP, tried a buddies non pp, it cut like butter. I sold the 8" and just use my 6" now...

Posted

I do have it mounted the correct way and for giggles tried the opposite incorrect way with flat and bolt. Same result. Thanks for the replies. I have both cutting heads power point and non - shake rattle and roll at the bottom of hole. That leads me to believe that the shaft is bent even though I cannot see it / the top connection weld is crooked / or the fitting on the gas auger head is somehow untrue for spinning. I'm looking and would like someone that does not have an issue to run my 8" with their power head, and for me to run theirs for a hole or two trying to diagnose where the problem is.

Posted

I've been a little frustrated with my Nils as well. Too much wobble when holding it up in the air and running it. Got it tightened the correct way with the bolt in tight and the nut tightened after that. Still wobbles.

You also have to break them in a special way running a full tank of gas through it while toggling the choke back and forth. Once this is done and out on the ice you need to let it warm up for several minutes until it will cut (somewhat) effectively. Found this out from the distributor out in New York over the phone and from my own experience. Starts and runs great.

It requires way too much down force and rocking back and forth to finish the cut due to the wobble. Wants to hang up a lot on the way down. I know everyone says "don't push down" but that never works with mine. The Nils / Tanaka power head is overall pretty awesome once it's broke in, but I think the auger attachment is Mickey Mouse.

Where can I find the Nils blade without the power point? Does anyone know how I could attach my strike master auger to my Tanaka power head?

Posted

i bought a new 8 last year. If you want to meet up sometime this weekend im available. i live south of the cities and fish the mazaska lake area. mine seems to cut good. let me know.

Posted

Just got mine and I need to connect the power head to the drill-Dtro you said the flat part goes to one side-which side? If their is a wrong way I will do it that way! The unit itself looks great but the owners manual is terrible!

-Nothing about the break in period

-nothing about attaching the power head to the shaft.

-Fuel mix is vague

-Choke/Run is cryptic

If someone could give me specifics on this connection that would be great,

Thanks

Posted

Thanks SMDUKE. I appreciate the offer but am flying home from Prudhoe Bay Alaska and will get home Sunday morning. I work in the oilfield. I'll try and send you a pm if you are available for the weekend of Jan 16 or anytime in between.

Posted

th64- the flat side of the shaft goes toward the side of the collar with the larger hole. The Allen head bolt goes through the large opening and through the (other) threaded side of the collar. Hold the bolt tight with the Allen wrench and install the nut.

Break-in: fill tank with correct gas oil mixture (I used Amsoil Saber first couple of tanks at 50:1). Next remove shaft and place power head over open end of 5 gallon pail as a rest. Start by switching on, push primer 3-4 times , set choke lever all the way to left full choke. Pull a couple of times until it turns over. Then move lever to right - choke off and pull again to start.

Set it over the bucket because you are going to be there a while. Let run to warm up, then depress throttle repeatedly while moving choke lever over to "almost stall" then back again. Let it run, occasionally repeat the "almost stall" with choke repeatedly. They say to run a full tank through it for proper break-in.

The distributor in New York advised me to do this after I got the new auger, ran out to the lake excitedly to try it only to find out it ran like dump out of the box. Good thing I called- no instructions. He said diaphragms sometimes stiffen from being on the shelf too long at the warehouse!

I normally run saber oil at 80-1 now. Some say 100:1 . Ford vs. Chevy I guess.

Posted

Thanks a bunch Scott, did the break in thing now I will install the shaft and try to actually cut some ice today.

Posted

First time out the Nils was great-started great did not need a long warm up period-holes cut quickly and cleanly, did not hang up on the end of the hole-will be replacing the cover soon,

as everyone has said the cover is no good.

So far very happy with my purchase.

Thanks for all the help and advice I got on this forum.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • smurfy
    • fishingstar
      Those flooding problems are a sign of your needle and seat are leaking.  If the needle has a ring around the tip you can clean it if it's brass. If it has a black rubber tip then it needs to be replaced. You can clean the needle and seat with things like rubbing compound or even toothpaste I use a product called Semi chrome. It for polishing die pins. Just clean them up after polishing.
    • SkunkedAgain
      All of those Polaris sleds from that era were notorious for flooding and leaking. I've still got a 2003 XCSP 600 Edge that my daughter rides. As you noted, you need to shut off the fuel in those situations.
    • SkunkedAgain
      Yes, but it could make for an amazing walleye opener.
    • Wanderer
      How old is your belt?   My old Polaris 4 wheeler with belt drive was bogging at mid range to top end last year.  Changed the belt and that problem went away.
    • JerkinLips
      Previous owner (22 years and 5,000 miles ago) said it was prone to flooding when sitting for a long time or trailering, so I shut the fuel off in both cases.   Primary is significantly worn.  I replaced several rollers and pins which helped.  I have two used clutches in much better condition that I could (and should) install.   It seems more like when I hit the throttle, but the bog could be from poor clutch shifting.  Will have to pay attention next time and inspect the clutches.  Thanks for the ideas.
    • jparrucci
      Nope, he beat me fair and square, all his.  This weather had been depressing. As it sits now we are looking at a later than normal ice out. I hate scrabbling with docks, lifts, boats right before opener. Also limits some pre opener crappie chances. 
    • smurfy
      👍 when/if i get drawn.....which i should know about june 1 we'll get in touch........both my kid and myself should get drawn.   and thanks.........with 6 preference points............i think are odds are pretty good.............there giving out 375 permits......and since we had yogi and booboo destroy my birdfeeders last spring......🙄 
    • fishingstar
      In those years Polaris was known to put buna tipped needles in there sleds. They get a ring around the seat and don't seal shut. But if that would be the case your problem would be with the motor shut off and filling the crankcase with gas. If your plugs are brown that is were they should be. I wouldn't drop that needle down to the last grove. I would replace them before I did that. I have never had a carb with that setting. Have you looked at your clutches? They could be dirty or have a bad roller.  Does it bog as it's accelerating or when you hit the throttle?     
    • Mike89
      but if he really wants I can change the date..  
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