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Posted

Is it practical to run one of these off a pair of 20# tanks? Not so much from a run time aspect, but as far as providing the correct pressures or vapor volume needed for that size of heater. Last year I tried with an auto changeover dual regulator, and I struggled to get things going right. People are saying I should ditch the auto changeover dual regulator and go to a 2 stage single regulator and combine both tanks together as one before I feed the regulator with a single line? A better way to have more vapor volume available, especially in the coldest weather? What brand of regulator is considered the better quality, especially for real cold usage?

Posted

I had one in the house I sold this spring. I went with two 20# the first year I installed it and never had a problem but I wanted more run time so I put twin 30's the next year.

Some correct me if I'm wrong but 20#, 30# even 40# will all have the same pressure. Its the evaporation of liquid propane and all three of those tanks are the same diameter so same surface area for evaporation, just more volume in each bigger size. Now if the tanks laid on there sides like you home tank it would be a different story.

I had problems with the auto change over valves too and I agree with last part of your post too.

Posted

So does anyone know if I bring two 20# tanks together into a single line feed before it goes into the single input regulator, do the pressures from each tank add up to a higher pressure into that regulator? Or doesn't it work that way. I've heard that a tank's pressure is around 100-150 psi each. Can I use a brass Tee fitting I'd find at Menards or H.Depot and it be OK with the pressures we're talking about?

Posted

Yes to manifolding multiple tanks together - two tanks manifolded together have higher pressure than one. I did this on a -30F weekend with two 20 pounders and a finicky heater once, worked like a champ. I had a local propane supplier make me a dual POL pigtail from spare parts lying around. The brass T won't be a problem, but make sure all the hoses are in good shape if they've never been at higher pressures.

No to 20#, 30#, 40# being same pressure because they are same diameter and thus same surface area. Its more complicated than that. A higher volume of liquid propane drives higher vaporization pressures due to the lack of a meaningful liquid meniscus - higher vaporization pressure at all usable temps from a larger cylinder even if same diameter. I had a 150000BTU propane garage heater that would freeze up a 20# tank, but ran fine on a 40#.

Auto-changeover = unreliable in cold conditions, leave those for the fair weather RV industry. I stick with manual flip overs and a pilot relight at 3AM (you know how it goes...) I haven't found a regulator brand that doesn't work yet.

I own two DV-215's and a DV-210. Great heaters those Empires. I've run mine with 20#, 30# and 100# tanks without issue. I have a B.S. in Chemistry, and some would say the B.S. is not a reference to a college degree, so take all this with a grain of salt... but I've been down this path and you are getting OK advice. Best solution is a nice big tank like a 100#-er, but failing that, manifolding smaller tanks together is second best.

Posted

I'm trying to source out a Tee that will feed my 2 tanks into the single inlet on my regulator. I'm seeing a choice between a manifold Tee like this:

http://www.dyersonline.com/mb-sturgis-manifold-tee.html

or one similar but also mentions it is a Tee Check:

http://www.shoprvparts.com/product/10889F/tee-check-lp-propane-fitting.html

I guess the one with the check feature would let me leave one tank running while I switch out the other? In the end I want to generally have both tanks running at same time to maximize vapor volume available. Would the one with the Check feature designed into it possibly have more restriction to it? Not a Full Port idea?

The one at Dyers Online looks different, but maybe it has a Check feature also, they just don't mention it.

The check feature seemed like a good thing, as I wasn't wanting to add 2 more shutoffs directly off the Tee to isolate the one tank that would be left running temporarily.

Posted

If you hook both tanks up to one manifold once you run out you're SOL. If you want to run that risk go ahead, but why not just get a bigger than it run time is the issue? I am just using logic and have no real experience with this stuff.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • smurfy
    • fishingstar
      Those flooding problems are a sign of your needle and seat are leaking.  If the needle has a ring around the tip you can clean it if it's brass. If it has a black rubber tip then it needs to be replaced. You can clean the needle and seat with things like rubbing compound or even toothpaste I use a product called Semi chrome. It for polishing die pins. Just clean them up after polishing.
    • SkunkedAgain
      All of those Polaris sleds from that era were notorious for flooding and leaking. I've still got a 2003 XCSP 600 Edge that my daughter rides. As you noted, you need to shut off the fuel in those situations.
    • SkunkedAgain
      Yes, but it could make for an amazing walleye opener.
    • Wanderer
      How old is your belt?   My old Polaris 4 wheeler with belt drive was bogging at mid range to top end last year.  Changed the belt and that problem went away.
    • JerkinLips
      Previous owner (22 years and 5,000 miles ago) said it was prone to flooding when sitting for a long time or trailering, so I shut the fuel off in both cases.   Primary is significantly worn.  I replaced several rollers and pins which helped.  I have two used clutches in much better condition that I could (and should) install.   It seems more like when I hit the throttle, but the bog could be from poor clutch shifting.  Will have to pay attention next time and inspect the clutches.  Thanks for the ideas.
    • jparrucci
      Nope, he beat me fair and square, all his.  This weather had been depressing. As it sits now we are looking at a later than normal ice out. I hate scrabbling with docks, lifts, boats right before opener. Also limits some pre opener crappie chances. 
    • smurfy
      👍 when/if i get drawn.....which i should know about june 1 we'll get in touch........both my kid and myself should get drawn.   and thanks.........with 6 preference points............i think are odds are pretty good.............there giving out 375 permits......and since we had yogi and booboo destroy my birdfeeders last spring......🙄 
    • fishingstar
      In those years Polaris was known to put buna tipped needles in there sleds. They get a ring around the seat and don't seal shut. But if that would be the case your problem would be with the motor shut off and filling the crankcase with gas. If your plugs are brown that is were they should be. I wouldn't drop that needle down to the last grove. I would replace them before I did that. I have never had a carb with that setting. Have you looked at your clutches? They could be dirty or have a bad roller.  Does it bog as it's accelerating or when you hit the throttle?     
    • Mike89
      but if he really wants I can change the date..  
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