Hole Hopping Questions

[Schleichenator]

Looking for some feedback on targeting fish. I am usually after walleye. I am finding structure with the vexilar, but my success seems moderate at best. I typically catch only a handful of fish on an outing (walleye and pike) and I'm wondering if I am not searching enough, or spending too much time out of the water looking (less likely). Or do I need to switch species and go after some panfish if I want more regular action?

When you are finding a spot to set up, how many holes do you drill? How far apart?

Typically, my strategy has been to find a decent break and starting on shallow side, drill a hole every 20-30 yards (about 6 to try and find a point). I will try 2-4 different spots on the lake about every trip. Generally, once I'm set up, if I don't get a fish for an hour, I move. I always try to be rigged up and ready an hour before sunset and stay till dusk.

Do you only stop once you've marked a fish? Should I invest in a camera to get a better idea of the structure below me?

Lots of questions... Any advice is appreciated. Thanks guys.

[JacobG]

I almost exclusively fish for crappies so my approach is a little different. And varies from lake to lake and water depth. But you can never drill too many holes. There is an old saying, "He who fishes the most holes usually wins" However as we all know we can drill 100 holes and have just a few produce fish, why? I have no idea but that's fishing. I also fish with a 19 degree transducer and only drill holes about 30-40 feet apart over basin areas.

At the start of a every new day I will drill several holes and usually have my fishing partner walk behind me to check for both depth and fish. If fish are marked my partner will then start fishing while I continue to drill holes. And hopefully the fish that are marked are our target species. This is the reason my partner starts fishing on that hole.

In your case with the walleyes you would definitely want your shallower holes drilled prior to prime time. Work the edges during the day and the adjacent flats. I also like to put a tip up near the edge of reefs or points or even on the reef in case fish move shallow before sundown.

Its been my experience that walleyes are on the move most of the time and even if fish aren't marked with your vexilar when you get to the next hole its still required that you drop a jig. Maybe a minute or 2 each hole then move on.

If I were fishing crappies in deeper water, 25 fow or more, I simply drop the transducer in the hole, if theres no fish, move on. Don't drop a jig just move right on to the next hole. And continue the procress. However, a bitter cold day can hinder this process dramatically and limit your fishing mobility grounding you to your portable.

[Double A]

I study my map and visualize the structure under the ice. Then I map out a path that takes me along as well as up and down structure. I drill a hole, take 10 steps and drill another, etc. I typically drill 10-12 holes at a time.

Then I bring a jig n rap or a similar baitless lure especially if it's real cold) to see if there's anything that will follow. If I get a hit or see fish follow, I'll make a specific mark in the snow (not yellow) to come back to that hole with live bait.

As the day goes on, I'll drill more patterns and double check some of the previously drilled holes.

A good sonar is better than a camera if you have to choose between the two. A camera will only work in unstained water during good sunlight hours.

Cameras are very informative but unfortunately they sometimes keeps you on a spot too long. If you have it down and are seeing fish but they won't bite it keeps you entertained and "anchored" at that unproductive spot longer.

[Schleichenator]

Thanks for the information guys! It sounds like I'm going a bit too far between holes perhaps. This is my first year with a gas auger. I have used a hand crank for the last two years. It was a great workout, but I would usually drill 4-5 holes before planting at a depth for a while. Now, I can definitely step it up.

I use a vex, but should probably drop a rig down the hole as you mention just to double check. I have been contemplating buying a camera just to get a better idea of lake bottom, weed lines. I think next year I'll pull the trigger on that. Thanks for the heads up about not planting over fish that won't feed.

I've got the lake maps app on my phone. Now I need to buy some base-layer gloves that can operate a touch screen. Tired of freezing my fingers.

[Jim Panfish Uran]

Walleyes can be so darn finicky, that's why I rarely fish them lol..

They are so structure orientated, they are a predator and I use the bottom pivot point of a drop as basically a "trail". Follow that bottom pivot point around structure and use a search lure like a spoon or a body bait and fish it aggressively to see what you can mark on your flasher, and adjust your presentation from there. I don't think there is really a magic distance between holes, just keep water clarity in mind.

[Schleichenator]

Great tips. Thanks again!