Novice decoy carver needs help

[jasonmichalski]

Here's something that will beneifit everyone. What is everyone else using to test and tune there decoys? I have used sinks, tubs, bins, and at home I use a 50 gallon fish tank but there to small my decoys hit the side making it hard to judge the action. I would like to build or cheaply buy something about 4'x4'x4' or least 2' deep. What works for you guys?

[merkman]

I would like to build or cheaply buy something about 4'x4'x4' or least 2' deep.

Something like this?

[chad austin]

I agree Jason, if someone had the time to genericly lay out a build from start to finish that would be great too (this is something I will do in the future when i have more of an idea of what I am doing) . What do you guys do when you find that a decoy needs more lead after it's done (painted and tested) do you simply drill a hole and fill with more lead and then reseal the area where you added lead? I've got 2 decoys ready for paint but I haven't bought the paint yet and I need to get a booth built this weekend. I plan on documenting the build and putting pics up on here to help someone else in the future.

[jasonmichalski]

I have drilled filled sealed and reprinted but I have good luck bending the fins to change center of gravity and swim radius.

[MJ1657]

Something like this?

Next thing you know you would have cucumbers growing out of it.

[Laska]

I use a 150gallon 4ft round stock tank $140 down here in farm county. around 30" deep.... Behren Country tank....

[jasonmichalski]

I use a 150gallon 4ft round stock tank $140 down here in farm county. around 30" deep.... Behren Country tank....

perfect that is what I was looking for the only ones I have seen are oval but I will have to look for a round one, thanks

I was thinking of making a tank but dont know where to start, but a round tank looks like the way to go.

[Laska]

Its perfect! Little on the spendy side but it was worth every penny, afterall its the swimming that counts in my book! If you need any help let me know.

[pikestabber]

What do you guys do when you find that a decoy needs more lead after it's done (painted and tested) do you simply drill a hole and fill with more lead and then reseal the area where you added lead?

If they are already painted, that's about your only option. For future reference, always swim test before you paint and seal (saves lots of time and heartache). A few years back I proudly showed off my newest creation to my brother...15 hours of work into my nicest decoy yet. Brimming with confidence, I plopped it down the hole to show off my decoy prowess...and it floated. I was blazing mad but my brother almost fell off his chair he was laughing so hard. I didn't see the humor in it. So, long story short, decoys are a multiple step process, and painting should be the very last step.

[BOUNCED]

So, long story short, decoys are a multiple step process, and painting should be the very last step.

Agreed

Unless you clear coat

[pikestabber]

Yes! Don't forget the clear coat!

[chad austin]

So what I am getting from this is you test them while they are in raw wood form? No sealer at all before getting them wet?

[pikestabber]

Sorry, I should have clarified, Chad. Absolutely do seal them before testing. A coat or two of clear coat over the wood and into the cavity...the more sealed it is, the better. Then if you determine that you need to add lead, make sure the decoy is 100% dry first. Hot lead + any amount of water = disaster. In any case, dry the decoy thoroughly before taking the next step (filling the cavity, painting, etc.)

So, my process. Carve, sand, add fins and woodburn details, drill cavity and add lead, seal with two coats of acrylic clear coat. Swim test. If it...

Swims well...dry thoroughly, fill cavity with wood filler, re-sand, paint, seal.

Swims poorly...dry thoroughly, fill cavity with more lead, re-test, repeat steps until it's where I want it.

[jasonmichalski]

I can tell you your right do not pour hot lead if there is a question about the decoy being wet, I removed the lead from a decoy after swim testing and repoured it and as I looked away it exploded and rained hot lead everywhere. I got very luck no one was hurt. Wear safety glasses and long sleeves.

[chad austin]

I've been at a stalemate for the last couple of weeks. I was getting frustrated at the fact that I couldn't get everything to look the way that I wanted but I am back on track after spending some time in the garage tonight. I came to the conclusion that things will get better in time and the right tools will be acquired in time as well. I decided not to burn in the scales on my first decoy (going to buy the right tips for the burner) and to keep thing pretty basic for now and to add detail as I get a few more under my belt. I will post pics of my progress tomorrow and see what you guys think. The only thing left to do on my first one is to add lead, test and paint.

About a week ago we did a roof in which we used lead for some flashing and I got all the left over lead that couldn't be returned which ended up being about 25 pounds... That should last a while. The other thing I will be ordering at the end of the week is some paint for the airbrush. Have any of you been working on any projects lately?

[chad austin]

Here's one pic from my phone of my progress as of tonight.

[Laska]

You'll need a back stabilizing fin to make it swim right, otherwise it will wobble quite a bit. Looks great otherwise! Ive been working on a clear finned walleye and a new Jaws Northern Tribal firetiger for myself once I get them done Ill post some pics. As for filler as mentioned above, scrap that idea, use Apoxie Sculpt 2 part putty. You can find it thru VanDykes Taxidermy or Mckenzie Taxidermy, $33 for the big tub and it will fill over 200 decoys. Its hard as a rock and can be painted while its still curing.

[MJ1657]

Very impressive Chad. Love the ripple detail on the fins

[Gordie]

Looks great Chad and when that pike comes in to look at you should be very proud of your accomplishment,

[merkman]

Very nice!!!!

[jasonmichalski]

The filler i use is latex based a dries fast can be sanded and painted in melts when you burn it, so i can match scale detail 100% its at most hardware stores for a few bucks.

[jasonmichalski]

Hows your decoy coming along?

[chad austin]

As of right now I have a JAWS decoy, when I put it in water everything but the dorsal fin goes under lol. I have been really busy at work the last few weeks, coupled with the bathroom remodel (done) to keep my wife happy for the up coming ice season , I haven't had much down time lately.

[jasonmichalski]

I understand you must keep the wife happy before spearing season.

[merkman]

I worked on my first decoy again this weekend.

I "cheated" and went to a profesional carvers workshop for some guidance with the weighting and finning.

He actually recomended larger fins but I like the way the front fins look.

I don't like the look of the back fins, but I ran out of time.

Finned and weighted... Painting next.

It swims and sits "right" but it is a screamer... very fast.... If I don't like how fast it is later, I will take some weight way from it to slow it down some later... or not (larger fins would have slowed it too I guess)

[MJ1657]

Looks good Merk!

So when are you going to start taking orders?

[Gordie]

Looking good merk and this past weekend it was the fast decoys that produced for me.

[mrklean]

nice job merk

[jasonmichalski]

Nice work merk, the last two days a fast decoy I didn't care for is now the hot decoy, its good yo have a wide range.

[merkman]

So when are you going to start taking orders?

I don't think so....

I take enough orders from my wife, thank you very much....

.