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Strikemaster Auger Issue


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Hey FMers,

I am having some issues with my Strikemaster Lazermag Express, so I just thought I would see if anyone else out there has had similar problems or if anyone has any ideas on it. Problem is that out of nowhere my drill bit/auger blades just stopped catching when trying to drill holes. Engine runs fine, drill is spinning, but it’s just not biting into the ice and drilling. This has happened twice now, once with the original drill bit (last Dec), and now with the brand new bit that Strikemaster replaced under warranty. The Strikemaster guys said the blade pitch is getting thrown off. Here is the weird thing though, both times, I had drilled about 20-25+ holes before this happened, and the hole that I drilled right before it happened was totally fine (no slow drilling or any sign of bad pitch). I am pretty easy on the thing, and especially the second time around, have been very careful about not pushing to hard while drilling or putting pressure on the blades that would cause the pitch to change. I have a hard time believing that this is a normal problem, and the pitch can be thrown off so easily. Especially to the point where it just won’t drill holes at all. Anyone have this problem with their auger?

Thanks

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Exact same thing happend to me saturday we where drilling on Tonka and after two holes all of the sudden it wouldnt grip the ice. We had a backup blades from a buudy slapped them on the drill and it worked fine. The problem is with the blades if you feel them they are perfectly sharp. I called Strike Master today and talked to carmen she said that if you hit salt or sand in the ice it will dull them imediatley and she said you cant sharpen them to a point where they will auger again. The only thing I can do is buy new blades which isnt cheap. Anyone else have these problems please post here so we can get a backing on this problem. Maybe something could happen and even a refund. This was never explained to me ever and our first drill piece we bought three years ago and those blades lasted until this year when I forgot to tighten the bolts on the blades and lost one. Decided to get a new drill unit and after twenty holes a dull blade!!!

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This may be a dumb answer but have you tried checking to see if the bolts that attach the blades to the bit are loose. I had a similar problem with my lazer mag right out of the box the first time I had it out on the ice. The blades themselves weren't concievably loose but when I checked the bolts they were a quarter of a turn loose. After tightning them down snug it cut like a dream, so now I always carry a wrench and check the bolts before I drill.

This may not be the answer to your problem and you have probably already checked this out but I thought I would chime in with my experience anyway. Good luck and happy fishing.

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I've just recently had that exact same issue out on Waconia last week. The week prior to that I was drilling holes as fast as you can snap your fingers, but last week, I couldn't get my blades to grip at all, the drill was spinning, but little to no ice was being cut. I don't usually apply pressure because it cuts right through but Being only 5'4" I had a pretty hard time, I was on my tip toes for most of the time. frown . I too am still trying to figure that what the culprit might be. I've checked the bolts, the blades are new this year. I'll probably be bringing some back up blades with me next time.

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I forgot to say that even if the blades can cut your finger when you go over the blades they are probably not sharp enough. Talked to some other people about it and most say they need to be precise to work which I cant believe but that precisness probably is why I can cut through two feet of ice with out pushing down at all in a few seconds. lol

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just a question to everyone i have also been having this problem this year but my issue is usually ice on the bottom spike of the auger when i chip that ice off it usually works fine again is that the case for anyone else

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I also having same problem and kind of same issue as well with my old jiffy 30 model but now its my brothers problem (he he lol) but checking the blades is always a good start. also the first time i tryed to use it right out of the box it flooded any one else ? But fixed now. just a thought but could any of these augers be the ones they use at ice fishing contest to drill holes .

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Jdog hit on a common problem when the weather is very cold. I have lazer augers since they hit the market many moons ago. I don't know if the users above with the complaints are veteran lazar users but when the weather is cold and after drilling holes,look for ice build up on the bottom flat of the blade. If it has ice the pitch is automaticly off because the cutting edge won't even contact the ice. No cutting takes place.

You have to get the ice off but s\don't do it at the expense of hitting the cutting edge. I have my own method of using the back side of a screw drive handle and hit it straight on the flat to remove the ice build up. Tap don't pound to remove the ice.

After drilling a hole in extreme cold weather be sure the blades are not slushed up. clean em out before setting the auger down. Carefull....... sharp !!!

The point is,if you get on the lake and the 1st holes slice down quick, then later it isn't so fast.. look at the blades for ice on the tip and the blades. It is a common problem.

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After my auger problem I brought it home into are heated garage went and augered again and still nothing we tried cleaning the blades but that is not the problem for my case. I bought my other set of blades this morning Ill put them on tonight and Ill be off and going until another time I hit the sand I guess!!!

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Definitely make sure you keep the point and blades as clean/ice free as possible. I have a little nylon grill brush I bring with me and wipe everything off after I am done drilling holes.

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Thanks for the input everyone! I'll make sure to check out all of the things mentioned.

TonkaMan - let me know how changing the blades works for you. I tried new blades the first time this happened to me with no results, but that's not to say that's not your problem.

The most frustrating thing about all this is that I know plenty of guys with augers that are 20+ years old and don’t have any more issues than just replacing/sharpening blades every few seasons. I guess they just don’t make em like they used to...

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I have a lazer mag that is about 3-4 years old, never had a problem with it. The beginning of the year I put new blades on it and it worked great until this weekend. Went to drill a hole and it just scratched the ice would not drill a hole. The blades were clean and the bolts were tight. I was a hour from home, so asked someone to drill a few holes for me,(thanks again). No running and gunning that day. Went home and put the old blades on and it works fine again. Not as fast as the newer blades, but it works. Something must have happened to the blades, but I have no idea what. I didn't drill any visible sand and it has not been run improperly. It was strange, one hole it worked the next it didn't.

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I had the same problem until I visited the Strikemaster headquarters in Big Lake, MN (763-263-8999). I was told that if your pitch is off on the blade/shaft eve 1/32nd of an inch, it will affect cutting. the fixed that, put on a new set of blades and it cuts like it was brand new (and it's 16 years old!) The stated that it makes a big difference if you use resharpened as opposed to new blades also. One thing they said was terrible for your auger is putting weight on it when you are drilling. The blades there are only $25, they said you pay more at the store for the pretty packaging! I also bought an extension there for $7. Now when I drill, the auger pulls down and cuts the hole in roughly 5-7 seconds (2 blade Lazer Mag 2HP). Very good service, highly recommended to cure your auger problems. Check out their website, they are always running specials and discounts also. It's up by Monticello, but worth the trip...stop wasting money on blades when that most likely is not the problem.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I also had this problem and unless your blades got really dull its the pitch that is off. Take the drive up to big lake since its not to far away and you will be out with 15mins or so. The strikemaster service center has great service and they take care of you fast. The guy bent my blades back to the correct pitch and then I went onto big lake (which is close by strikemaster) and my auger cut like new again.

It sounds like your pitch is off so I would think this will be your best option.

good Luck

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Anyone have a problem with their blades rusting? I have a Mora hand auger and my blades are rusting from just the last 3 months. Cuts like normal, far better than the Eskimo one I tried and returned at Christmas time, but I'm a bit concerned. After every trip out I bang off all the ice with a piece of oak I have so I don't mess up the blades, but I still see rust starting all over the blades. Like all over, a lot.

Previous to this auger I used my Dad's 5" old Mora auger that was 30 years old and hadn't been used in about 10, its blades had no rust at all on them. Will I be able to return these blades for factory resharpening or will they think they're like 50 years old or something?

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If you are noticing rusting happening on your blades maybe covering the blades with a coat of oil after use once in awhile would be a big help.

Also in response to the blades not cutting ice I have this problem occasionally with my Strikemaster Mag 2000. In extremely cold weather I can cut several holes without a problem but then all of a sudden I can not even cut the next hole. When this happens I check the point and the blades for ice buildup. There is a small space between the point and the end of the blade and when the ice builds up in between that space the cutting action stops. Be very careful with trying to tap that ice out of there because it is very easy to accidently hit the corner of the blade and damage it. It seems just the slightest damage to the corner of this blade will slow or stop the cutting action.

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  • 13 years later...

So I have a strikemaster liteflite auger with a centering bit... Was working great til today.... While looking at I noticed that the centering bit is spinning so if it just sits on the ice and can't cut down the auger won't cut thru is my opinion.... Some of you that are having the same problem check your centering bit.... 

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6 hours ago, Steven Walters said:

So I have a strikemaster liteflite auger with a centering bit... Was working great til today.... While looking at I noticed that the centering bit is spinning so if it just sits on the ice and can't cut down the auger won't cut thru is my opinion.... Some of you that are having the same problem check your centering bit.... 

 

there was  some issues last year they made this site where you can submit your serial number and see if you got one of the bad ones:

 

https://www.strikemasterblades.com/

 

I heard of a few issues last year about this. After using a buddies and seeing many others with good reviews I decided to pick one up to add to my auger rotation.   I havent had any issues and its drilled several holes both this year and last year already with zero issues.

Edited by rundrave
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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • gimruis
      I hunt in the rifle zone so I don't have a need to use a shotgun to hunt deer, but I would be looking at this if there was ever a need to.   There could be state legislation introduced next summer that eliminates the shotgun zone completely.  It has bipartisan support.  Wisconsin removed theirs years ago and MN is usually later to follow.  They've tried to pass it more than once and it came up just short both times.  Probably just a matter of time.
    • Wanderer
      Oh, h e l l no! 
    • leech~~
      Screw that, here's whatch need!  😆   Power-Shok Rifled Slug 10 Gauge 766 Grain Grain Weight: 766 Shotshell Length: 3-1/2in / 89mm Muzzle Velocity: 1280
    • Wanderer
      20 ga has become a real popular deer round in the last 5 or so years.  The rifled barrels are zinging those sabot slugs with rifle like accuracy out to 100 yards easily.  Some go so far as dialing in for a 200 yard shot but really, by 150 they’re falling off pretty low.   I have a single shot Ultraslug in 20 ga that shoots really well at 100 yards.  Most everyone I know that has bought a slug gun lately has gotten the Savage 220 in 20ga.  Problem can be finding the shells you want.
    • leech~~
      My son always bugs me about getting a nice light over-under 20ga for grouse hunting.  I say Heck no, I'm getting a 3 1/2" 10ga so I can put as much lead in the air that I can!!     So, I'm keeping my 12ga.  
    • 11-87
      That’s almost exactly what I was thinking.  Have slug barrels for both   One for turkey and one for deer.      I have a 20ga mosseberg as well. (Combo came with the scope but never used.   I always liked the 12 better
    • leech~~
      Wanderer is right on the money and covered it well.  I was wondering too if you had a slug barrel for one of your guns?  If so you could make that your slug gun with a scope, and the other your turkey gun with the Red dot.  As you can afford it. 
    • Wanderer
      Kinda depends on if you want magnification or quick target acquisition.   More magnification options and better accuracy with a scope.  You get what you pay for too so get comfortable with a budget for one.  Tasco and Bushnell work but I find they lose their zero easier, have low contrast and don’t gather light well in low light conditions.  That said, I’m still using one I haven’t replaced yet.  Vortex has been the hot brand for the past several years for bang for the buck.  Good products.  Nothing beats Swarovski though.  Huge dough for those.  Burris is another decent option.   There are some specific models for shotgun/slug hunting in the economy brands and bullet drop compensation (BDC) reticles.  Based on experience I’d recommend not falling for that marketing ploy.   Red dots are usually lower magnification and easier to get on target.  Reasonably accurate but don’t do well with definition, like searching the brush for your target.  I put a HAWKE red dot on a .22 for squirrels and it’s been good.  For turkey, that’s probably the route I’d go.     If your slug shots are normally not too far and too brushy, I’d think a red dot could work there too if you’re only buying 1 scope.  You’ll be better off dimming the reticle to the lowest setting you can easily use to not over shine the target and get a finer aim point.   If you don’t have a slug barrel, you might appreciate one of those.  I had a browning with a smoothbore slug barrel that shot Brenneke 2-3/4 inch well.  The 11-87 would well fitted with a cantelever rifled barrel. 
    • 11-87
      Looking for recommendations on scope or red dot    I basically hunt turkey and whitetail, live in southern MN. So it’s all deer/ shotgun    looking to add a scope/ red dot as my eyes don’t work like they used to to with the open sights.    my gun options are 11/87 12. Browning BPS 12    not looking for the most expensive or the cheapest    pros and cons of one over the other
    • SkunkedAgain
      That's good news. I haven't seen any ice in Black Bay yet, but it looks like the small bays should start to freeze up this weekend. Hopefully we make some ice next week.   Below is the forecast for Cook. We should have temps mostly below zero . The bottom section below shows that it should not be windy, and no snow is predicted. All good signs for making ice.  
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