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WalleyeWarrior

Replacing the flooring in my Crestliner

20 posts in this topic

I've got a 1750 Fishhawk that has some soft spots in the floor. What is the best material to use as a replacement? I plan on taking out the existing floor and using it as a template. Also, it currently has carpeting. I see that Cabelas, etc. carry different carpets with varying prices. Any recommendations? Thanks for the help.

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What year is your boat? I had some bad spots around my livewell and crestliner fixed it for free. I had a 1650 fishhawk from 2001. I brought it in over this past winter before I sold it.

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It is a '97.

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Give them a call, they are in little falls and may help you or at least offer some templates.

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Quote:

Give them a call, they are in little falls and may help you or at least offer some templates.


Will give them a call. Thanks for the advice.

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Let us know how the job works out for you. I have a '97 SportFish with a soft spot by my rear live well as well.

I wonder if this is a common problem with CL's? I've been meaning to tackle this, but always put it off.

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I talked to them and there was no discussion about them fixing it for me. He recommended using pressure-tested plywood as the decking. He also said that since it's an older boat chances are good that the old carpet may peel right off and that I'd be able to re-use it.

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What is pressure-tested plywood??

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You don't want to use ACQ preasure treated plywood. It's a stronger alkalai (sp?) than the aluminum. The metal gets eaten in the reaction between the 2. There is a new treated lumber that came out this winter that is less corosive. I'm not sure what lumber yards are carrying it and which still have ACQ. The yards with the new product will sell through the ACQ they have on hand first. Right now I would think there are piles with both products mixed together.

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Whats the name of the new stuff??Where do I get it?? If these piles are mixed together how do I determine which is which??

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I replaced the plywood in the boat with cdx 1/2 in, we put a sealer on, polyeurthain over the sealer, then cut out the pieces we needed, sealed the edges and installed the pieces. be sure to use alui. rivets or alui. screws. I would get new carpet, there is a carpet glue that is resistant to water, the other carpet glues will absorb water and the carpet will come loose.

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I replaced the floor in my 1977 Crestliner Apollo a few years ago. Best advice I got was to use 3/4" marine grade plywood and then fiberglass the entire floor followed by new carpet. The marine grade can be expensive and somewhat hard to locate but it worked great and looked even better.

Only thing I would have done different would be to "seal" the underside of the decking. In my case water could get from the transom drain hole all the up to the bow.

Good Luck! cool.gif

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The new treatment is called micronized copper.

Two of the brands are ProWood Micro and Micro Pro. Looking for the word Micro on the UPC tag stapled on the piece of lumber is the only way to be sure. Of the big boxes Lowes and Home Depot have the new treated, Menards carries ACQ.

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Normal treated plywood is not made for horizontal applications. Only marine grade is made for this. CDX or PTS has exterior glue between layers and is made for both horizontal and verticle applications. Good luck.

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I just got done doing a 17 foot crestliner interior.

I used 3/4 inch marine grade, guaranteed for 100 years, plywood.

man was that stuff spendy. $88 per 4x8 sheet.

it took three sheets by the time I did everything. new bench tops up front, rear access doors for the battery, plug/bilge pump area/fuel tank area, and the side holding areas on either side of the boat.

I spent over $80.00 on fasteners from fastenal.

I looked at things they had available and decided to try these new self drilling/tapping plastic coated screws to secure the plywood to the decking.

they are flat on top, with torx drive and the underside of the head is beveled. they have special wings to bore the wood slightly oversized and then the wings break off when they start to enter the metal you are drilling through.

they do this so the wood does not become threaded, often resulting in seperation between the plywood and the metal floor bracing. they worked pretty slick

I wont have the boat long enough to see how they hold up to corrosion.

the orriginal screws that held the deck down were only steel screws. as you can imagine, they rusted beyond recognition.

I think these will hold up nicely.

the floor is as solid as fort knox.

it was a week long project and it turned out very nice.

I added taper loc seat bases, pedastals and new seats.

I left room in front for a livewell, though I did not have one to put in, I did run the plumbing for a livewell under the deck, to simplify the task at a later date.

I could do this for a living I think.

I learn something with each one I do.

things I would never do again, and things that I would do but hadn't thought of until part way through the project.

I am going to look for another boat project soon. I wont have time to do it until next winter, but I am looking for things to do then anyway.

what ever you do, do it right.

I hate doing things halfway.

it just makes me feel better knowing that it is going to last.

boatroofviewleftside.jpg

boatinside.jpg

interior3.jpg

interior2.jpg

interior1.jpg

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Jiggle What was your final cost??

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sparce--

I really didn't keep a tab, but I know I had $88 per sheet x's 3 =264 + tax came to like $277

then I had $80 in carpet.

I bought this at home depot in Grand Rapids.

it came in 12 ft wide rolls any length. that is why I went with this. it is nice carpet too.

adhesive was a nut buster.

one gallon of a spread on type indoor outdoor carpet adhesive.

I didn't like it much, but it held good.

what I didn't like about it was that if I accidentaly got the glue to thick in any area, it had a tendancy to bleed through the carpet.

not to worry though, any place that happened, it dried clear and virtualy un-noticeable.

then I went through about 7? cans of 3M extra strength spray adhesive.

this stuff is the $#!t, though it cost $13 dollars a can!

I used it when I rebuilt my lund so I knew it was good stuf.

I used it mostly on the doors and benches, and where the carpet ran up the sidewalls of the hull.

7 x 13 = $91...+ the gallon of spread on at $14.00 = $105.00

plastic coated self drilling screws, stainless bolts and stainless lock nuts close to $80.00

seats, pedastals, seat bases and taper loc bases for in the floor, including a squishy pedastal for the driver seat

rough count not figuring anything for one seat base I had, and one pedastal I had came to $307

so....

277

105

80

+307

----------

$769

this might sound like alot, but I have used regular ply wood, green treated plywood, and even if you can seal it, it will warp.

glue, compromise here and the end result would be a disatrous attempt at penny pinching.

seats?

you can save money here if you want to by using decent used seats, but you will have to shop around well ahead of time to find what you want, and then who knows what may change your mind by the time you get around to installing them.

I wanted new seats and got the nicest, cheapest seats I could find. I bought wise brand seats from wally world, as much as I hate that place, I didnt have any money to go else where.

if you are building it to keep it for years to come, build it to last for years to come.

invest in a $70.00 cover and your efforts will last for many years!

any more questions, feel free to ask.

I am no expert by any means, but I have done this a few times now and if I can help I surely will.

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Thought I'd ask I've done a boat every year for the last 6 yrs.Never really totaled all the small stuff.and reused all I could! I'm starting a 16.5' smoker craft thats striped clean,one ped seat left and one beach mount.Can't complain I got it for $350.00 almost new trailor and a 35 Hp chrystler,that I have purrin now! it was siezed when I got it.Boat & motor 1980 trailor 1998 stored in garage.But the floor rotted out and they went through too much ply cause they could'nt fit it right!

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Where did you get the 3M spraycan glue? I have some loose carpet going up the side wall.

Thanks

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Home Depot, Sutty.

they had generic versions, and three different grades of 3-M spray glue.

I used the best stuff. it was only like a buck more than the other.

spray both surfaces to be glued and let it tack up for around a minute.

a little less if it is hot and sunny, a little more if it's cool and shady.

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