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VMS

Need to replace a stud w/treated

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VMS

Hi everyone,

In the process of getting the house re-sided, and when they pulled of the aluminum wrap around the garage, the bottom of the studs on both sides of the garage are showing signs of rot. I believe they are studs holding up the main support beam across the front for the garage door(don't remember if that is called the cripple or jack stud) and the next one in runs up along the beam and to the cap.

I'd like to replace only part of the stud with treated down where it contacts cement, but am unsure If I can.

The other thought is this: is there a product that I can apply to the stud to prevent further deterioration?

Thoughts and thanks in advance...

Steve

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Bobby Bass

Are they showing discoloration? without knowing what you have I am going to go out on a limb and guess they are absorbing water from where the water runs down the siding and gets the sill damp. Not unusual, If you are worried that they are losing strength and if you can get to them from the inside all I would do is just butter up another 2x4 next to them. As for treating them just spray them with a couple of treatments of tompson water seal. Not going to help the part of the wood that you can not see and more then likely the part of the wood that is absorbing the water. I would check the outside of the garage to make sure water is draining away from the sides of the garage. Find where your water is coming from and fix that problem. Just my two cents.

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VMS

Where it is coming from is the bottom where the cement from the garage floor is coming in contact with the stud itself. The stud is Black at the bottom, and quite moist. My thought is to cut out a section and replace it with treated.

Just unsure if I can cut the stud or not for fear of losing strength.

Steve

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eurolarva

If you try and cut the stud and the saw binds it is probably load bearing. If you can put another stud close to the one you want to replace and jack it up with 2 ton hydrolic jack but only go up enough to get the new stud in. Be careful what kind of hardware you use with that treated lumber. After the ban on the arsenic the new stuff is pretty coorosive to a lot of the zinc plated type nails and screws. I know the newer stuff for fasteners and hardware were called zmax which were double dipped in zinc.

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united jigsticker

So your outer cripple is wrotted (the one that supports the header) and the inner cripple (the one that goes to the top plate) is ok?

You can pull it off and replace it. Pry it apart as far as you can with a flat bar (I assume it is face nailed) and then cut the nails off that mate the header to the stud with a sawzall.

You can replace the entire cripple, but you'll need a sawzall. Cut between the bottom of the stud and the bottom plate, then the top of the stud and the top plate.

Measure it out, go 1/16th to an 1/8th inch strong, and pound the new one into place with a maul.

You can screw or nail the new studs into the top plate, bottom plate, and header with a 45 style attach.

Of course, don't forget to put a temp stud in under your header to the garage floor and near the edge of your inner stud to the top and bottom plates for support during replacement.

If you want to take the lazy route, you can cut out a 3 or 4 foot length of the outer cripple and just replace the bottom piece. This will prevent any more "cancer" from developing.

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VMS

Well...here is the outlook on it.

Thankfully, it is not a load bearing stud, and the rotting is not extremely bad. So..I can cut and replace the bad stuff with treated and be on my way.. I found the pictures of when I built the house and found I added that stud to make the garage door dimensions...

Thanks for all the help, though..

Steve

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