Guests - If You want access to member only forums on FM. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on Fishing Minnesota.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Fishing Report Clubs - LIMITED MEMBERSHIP - Join Today - FREE   01/24/2018

      Fishing Minnesota had added a new menu item (see above) called Fishing Report Clubs. It's a way to keep the really good fishing reports coming and being shared only with those who also provide detailed fishing reports. We will only approve new members who request to join if they have already posted a recent fishing report in the area forum, associated with the Fishing Report Club area  you want to join. We are going to limit the number of regular memberships, in the Fishing Report Clubs, to the top 20  members in each Club, to those with the best frequency and quality fishing reports provided in the club and less so in the regular fishing report forum open to all members. The higher quality fishing report reserved for the club of course. If  you want fishing reports  around your area, I would Join Now, some of the clubs are starting to fill fast. Use the Fishing Reports Club link in the Menu above (after you've posted a fishing report in the regular area forum) and request to Join.
  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

  • 0
Sign in to follow this  
VMS

Need to replace a stud w/treated

Question

VMS

Hi everyone,

In the process of getting the house re-sided, and when they pulled of the aluminum wrap around the garage, the bottom of the studs on both sides of the garage are showing signs of rot. I believe they are studs holding up the main support beam across the front for the garage door(don't remember if that is called the cripple or jack stud) and the next one in runs up along the beam and to the cap.

I'd like to replace only part of the stud with treated down where it contacts cement, but am unsure If I can.

The other thought is this: is there a product that I can apply to the stud to prevent further deterioration?

Thoughts and thanks in advance...

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

5 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0
Bobby Bass

Are they showing discoloration? without knowing what you have I am going to go out on a limb and guess they are absorbing water from where the water runs down the siding and gets the sill damp. Not unusual, If you are worried that they are losing strength and if you can get to them from the inside all I would do is just butter up another 2x4 next to them. As for treating them just spray them with a couple of treatments of tompson water seal. Not going to help the part of the wood that you can not see and more then likely the part of the wood that is absorbing the water. I would check the outside of the garage to make sure water is draining away from the sides of the garage. Find where your water is coming from and fix that problem. Just my two cents.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
VMS

Where it is coming from is the bottom where the cement from the garage floor is coming in contact with the stud itself. The stud is Black at the bottom, and quite moist. My thought is to cut out a section and replace it with treated.

Just unsure if I can cut the stud or not for fear of losing strength.

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
eurolarva

If you try and cut the stud and the saw binds it is probably load bearing. If you can put another stud close to the one you want to replace and jack it up with 2 ton hydrolic jack but only go up enough to get the new stud in. Be careful what kind of hardware you use with that treated lumber. After the ban on the arsenic the new stuff is pretty coorosive to a lot of the zinc plated type nails and screws. I know the newer stuff for fasteners and hardware were called zmax which were double dipped in zinc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
united jigsticker

So your outer cripple is wrotted (the one that supports the header) and the inner cripple (the one that goes to the top plate) is ok?

You can pull it off and replace it. Pry it apart as far as you can with a flat bar (I assume it is face nailed) and then cut the nails off that mate the header to the stud with a sawzall.

You can replace the entire cripple, but you'll need a sawzall. Cut between the bottom of the stud and the bottom plate, then the top of the stud and the top plate.

Measure it out, go 1/16th to an 1/8th inch strong, and pound the new one into place with a maul.

You can screw or nail the new studs into the top plate, bottom plate, and header with a 45 style attach.

Of course, don't forget to put a temp stud in under your header to the garage floor and near the edge of your inner stud to the top and bottom plates for support during replacement.

If you want to take the lazy route, you can cut out a 3 or 4 foot length of the outer cripple and just replace the bottom piece. This will prevent any more "cancer" from developing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
VMS

Well...here is the outlook on it.

Thankfully, it is not a load bearing stud, and the rotting is not extremely bad. So..I can cut and replace the bad stuff with treated and be on my way.. I found the pictures of when I built the house and found I added that stud to make the garage door dimensions...

Thanks for all the help, though..

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • nlayne882
      Lot of ice on the shore, only place to fish as of Thursday is two harbors breakwall
    • Wanderer
      I found a great bait selection at the Baxter Fleet Farm today.  3 sizes of suckers, multiple sizes of golden shiners, and of course fat heads and crappies. The first bait shop I tried only had fat heads and crappies.
    • mrpike1973
      Been very slow around here any luck anyone? don't want the lake but just general feeling around here. Did some pan fishing in 8-10 fow but got very slow.
    • Alex wilhelmi
      Hey Justin, if you see a 2004 burgundy 1500 Silverado with Iowa plates on shields, Yukon tent. That's the girlfriend and I. Stop by for a Busch latte, or a white Russian. I can't wait to get out of Iowa for the weekend. 4 am on the road!!!!!!!! yeah baby!!!!!! Good luck!!  
    • fowldreams
      There was a couple mixed in the bucket. They were big shiners 5 to 6 inch range. The shiners would be down for 6 hours or so each time and we never waited that long for a sucker to be taken. Just our experience. If a guy could have both I say try and see.
    • Wanderer
      Call ahead for shiners.  I’ve heard there aren’t any left in the state.  At Mille Lacs 2 weeks ago I asked for some and the guy looked at me like I was stupid. Of course I blame that on the question... 
    • Jplante
      Fowldreams, did you have shiners? Just curious if preferred them over shiners, or thats just what you had.
    • fowldreams
      suckers, suckers, suckers. This was the only bait that worked for us last weekend and when the fish hit the rattle reels line spooled fast.
    • Flash
      Thanks! Flash "Set the Hook"
    • MN BassFisher
      What surprised me about the fishery in SE Florida is that it is mostly live bait (Shiners). There are so many fish in those channels that the Peacock's won't chase a bait for long. I guess they can be caught on the fly but your casts needs to be very accurate and your hookset quick because they spit the flies fast. Our guide said artificials could be done but you're going to spend all day to maybe catch a few fish. Watching the videos of those Amazon Peacock's destroying topwater plugs and jerkbaits looks like a riot!!!
  • Share & Have Fun