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fishin58

Amsoil?

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Ok I am interested in amsoil, I personally do not anyone who uses this. Are there cases when you should not use it? I am looking at putting it in my boat with an 89 evinrude 100 horse. Would I have to drain the remainder of regular oil that is in my tank now or will they blend?? And how good is this stuff, no blue smoke?? Thanks

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You should NEVER blend synthetic with regular oil. Try and get as much out as possible. I have switched over all of my small engines to Amsoil(boat, lawnmower, ice auger, etc.) they have never run better. I can start them much easier now and alot less smoke.

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There is not a specific year to date back? I know my motor is in not a thing of rocket science, if I was to drain my old one would it take the motor a while to get used to amsoil? and how does a guy get that old oil out?

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Last year I switched my motor over to Amsoil HP Injector Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil (HPI) Someone may correct me, but I believe this is their recommended oil for all outboards that are oil injected or mixed fuel motors at a 50:1 ratio.

Since my motor has an injection system, all I did was dump my oil tank out and filled it up with the Amsoil. As the oil ran, it used up the oil in the lines and cycled the amsoil through. Since switching, I have noticed a less smoke on startup and have been impressed with it so far.

If you mix your fuel/oil for the motor, just make sure your fuel tank is empty and mix up a fresh batch with the amsoil.

The thing you don't want to do is just dump it into your oil tank and combine it with regular two stroke oil or just mix up a few gallons and top off your existing tank.

When in doubt, just shoot "The Oilman" a message and he will get you everything you need.

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I assume you have an oil-injected outboard. The correct AMSOIL is the HP Injector (product code HPI). This can be used in all outboard oil injection systems or can be used as a 50-1 pre-mix oil in outboards.

There is only one case that it is not recommended - if you have been using cheap oils and the engine has a heavy carbon buildup, AMSOIL will clean the carbon and in doing so it may break away in chunks that can lodge in the exhaust port and scar the piston and do other damage. This is not a lubricant failure and no warranty will cover this type of damage. If you have it 'de-carboned' first then you can use AMSOIL with no problem.

To change to AMSOIL in an oil injection, first of all, never take a chance on running out of oil. If it is reasonably easy to remove the tank and drain the old oil out, this would be the best. However on most engines this would be a very difficult project, or at the least very messy. The AMSOIL will mix with most other oils, though it is recommended to minimize mixing. ---- The easiest way, carry your new AMSOIL, use your current oil down until the bell/buzzer/warning system goes off (you should be at about 1/3 to 1/4 oil tank then. Fill with the AMSOIL.

The AMSOIL is full synthetic - the 2-cycle lubes are diester base lubricants. It burns away clean, leaving no ash or carbon behind. Over time it will clean pre-existing carbon from the engine. In burning clean, it greatly reduces smoke, reduces emissions (up to 75%), and lubricates better. I have sold it to boat racers who have had to change to a steeper prop. AMSOIL runs slicker, increases the RPMs, and to keep a high-performance racing engine in the correct power range changed the prop to load the engine more.

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Thank you guys very much and I will be switching over this spring. Thanks Again. I will let ya know how I turn out.

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I have a '87 40 hp evinrude and 9.9 on the back of my boat, how do I go about switching over to amsoil? I know I need the sabre oil. just running the tank dry, have a couple gallons already mixed up and put it in the tank?

The place where I bought the boat didn't think I should use synthetic....

Also, I usually run seafoam when I fill it up, and what about winterizing with a stabilizer, can I do that with amsoil?

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Quote:

There is only one case that it is not recommended - if you have been using cheap oils and the engine has a heavy carbon buildup, AMSOIL will clean the carbon and in doing so it may break away in chunks that can lodge in the exhaust port and scar the piston and do other damage. This is not a lubricant failure and no warranty will cover this type of damage. If you have it 'de-carboned' first then you can use AMSOIL with no problem.

How do you know if it's carboned up, and how do you go about de-carboning it?

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If you have had problems with carbon fouled spark plugs, especially multiple times, you need to check further. By pulling the plugs inspect the portion of the cylinder you can see through the plug hole, turn the engine over by hand or slowly to see the top of the piston.

To clean usually means having the heads pulled and physically removing carbon.

Severe carbon that can cause problems is rare, but I have seen it - in over 25 years experience I have only had 3 or 4 reported problems with severe carbon in 2-stroke engines.

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Pre-mix outboards have 2 choices of AMSOIL lubricants.

The Saber-Outboard (product code ATO) is for water-cooled pre-mix engines and can be mixed as lean as 100-1.

The HP Injector can be used as a pre-mix, but use it at 50-1 mix ratio.

A lot of people swear by SeaFoam, but I don't know what it is or how it works and cannot recommend it.

Storage? -- I have had many reports that the use of AMSOIL 2-cycle lubes gives them off-season fuel system protection without using anything additional, though the AMSOIL data sheets don't actually say so. To be safe I do recommend the use of stabilizer: AMSOIL's Gasoline Stabilizer will give you up to 18 months of storage protection from gasoline deteriorating and varnishing - in both 2- and 4-stroke engines. AMSOIL Product Code AST-BF for a 16-ounce bottle. Use 2 ounces to 5 gallons of gasoline.

If you use the 6-gallon portable tanks, just use AMSOIL in your next tank. If you have a built-in tank in your boat, at your next fill-up when low use the AMSOIL, the right amount for the quantity of gas you buy or course. AMSOIL will mix with the other oils on the market, but it is better to minimize the mixing.

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Do the oil injected outboards have an oil mix adjustment on them? In other words if amsoil is mixed at a richer blend how do I set up my oil injection system to accomodate this? Or is this neccessary with the HPI? Sorry I don't have my boat here to look at.

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Most oil injection systems do NOT have an adjustment. A few are adjustable but only by the manufacturers shops - it is a sealed setting. Most of it is controlled by the viscosity of the oil, and the AMSOIL holds a nearly flat viscosity over a very wide operating range to help give better controlled lubrication.

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Oilman; so are you saying that my oil injection system will "read' the oil, and use less amsoil than it would regular oil? Or will it use about the same amount, but be better for the motor?

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that is what I was also wondering? will the motor read it and not have the motor running to rich or lean?

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It will use about the same amount, but be better for the motor.

Most oil injection systems use a variable ratio system. At idle and low speed they run a mid range mix ratio, at mid throttle they run very lean oil and at full throttle they run a rich mix ratio. The actual amount of oil varies between manufacturers.

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So how much more expensive is Amsoil compared to premium regular oil (yamaha)? I thought the price per use probably evened out cause you use less...not so huh?

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Quote:

How do you know if it's carboned up, and how do you go about de-carboning it?


To decarbonize a carburated outboard you have to buy a specific product, ask a dealer you need a Decarbonizer, there are several brands.

Warm up the motor (on muff) to regular temperature, remove the carb intake cover (if necessary) to have clear access to carb throats, leve motor running at idel, spray the product into each carb continuously, you have to spray a lot, to a point where motor starts dying, keep going and do it equally to each cylinder, keep spraying until motor dies. shut off ignition, and water, let sit overnight.

Next day open water to muffs, start motor, it might be tough to start due to deposits and "gunk" inside, run motor revving it up but not excessively, you will see a lot of black/gray stuff coming out of exhaust, keep on going until water flows clean.

Take boat to lake and run it full throttle for a while.

That's it.

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I don't think I'm familiar with the term 'muff' in this context. What is it?

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They look like ear muffs ya hook onto your garden hose, then ya put the muffs over the water intake on your outboard motor. This way ya can do all of your outboard testing without going to the lake.

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Post deleted by Don Dawson, too commercial for this forum.

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You are totally right Oilman, I don't mind spending that couple extra bucks for the insurance of know my engines are going to run right and for years to come.

On the other hand I disagree with mixing reg and synthetic oils. I have seen the effects of mixing them(not Amsoil) and I will never do it. It turns the oils into a white sludge that is incredibly difficult to get rid of. I dont know if amsoil will do it but I don't want to find out.

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Thanks for the info. No one has reported this problem to me previously. Do you know what brands of oil were mixed that caused the problem?

As I said I do recommend to minimize mixing. With some boats it is a very ugly job to remove and drain the oil tank completely.

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Yeah it was Valvoline full synthetic mixed with reg dealership oil that was left in the bottom of the oil pan. Big pain in the rear.

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