Guests - If You want access to member only forums on FM. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on Fishing Minnesota.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
Squid

Atwood Furnace Not Heating

Recommended Posts

Squid

My season is getting off on a bad start. My fishhouse on wheels also serves as a bunkhouse for deer season. So, in the process of giving it a checkout Friday morning my heater didn't heat. I thought it was perhaps a bad regulator but nixed checking it out until after the weekend.

So, after checking it out yesterday I'm at a loss as to what is wrong with it. Everything seems to be working but it appears to not be getting any propane. The tank is full and I disconnected the regulator to see if gas is getting throught the valve, which it was. The thermostat turns the fan on and you can hear the ignitor but no flame. The unit is an Atwood Model 7916-II. The installation manual has a diagnostic chart but the LED indication seems to be normal (blinks on green at @ 8 sec intervals).

Has anyone else had any problems with this? I know this has been a fairly common unit to be installed in fishhouses and I'm hoping someone else out there has had a similar problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PierBridge

Bad thermocouple or a Cobweb in the gas line of the heater.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
backlash 1

Do you have a gas stove top or lantern on the same line that is working? If the other things are not working, then I would say froze up regulator. If the regulator is upside down, it can let rain water get in the vent, causing it to freeze up every time it gets cold out. Been there, done that. Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Surface Tension

Is the battery at a full charge?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bbqhead

very good point,

if you have a low battery the fan will come on

but it will not open the gas valve on the furnace.

its like below 11 volts the valve will not open,

bbqhead

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squid

The battery was fully charged, I even swapped it with the one for the lights but it didn't change a thing. It's like the gas valve is stuck shut. I see there is a screwdriver slot on the front of the valve but I haven't touched it because I can't find any mention of it in the installation manual. Is it possible for that to get stuck? The unit worked the last time it was used at the end of the last ice season. The hose was capped at the regulator end, so I don't believe there's a blockage in the line either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bbqhead

where is this furnace located?

citywise. so many things it could be...

you can call me at 651-7175466

bbqhead

rv tech

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
fishinalot

You may have dirt or dust on the electronic circiut board.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dogzlife000

The sail switch is likely dirty. It's a small safety switch located near the blower that when closed, due to the fan air flow, allows the main gas valve to open. It's a somewhat delicate mechanical switch so you could have some crud or something jamming it.

This switch is located near the blower motor. If you look on the right side of the furnace, the two wires that run along the blower duct tube go to the sail switch. Very easy to get at once the furnace is removed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Biggerfish

How old is this heater? I have the same in mine. I hope its not a sign of what is to come. Please post how you fixed yours. Thanks in advance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kooba

I would say frozen up regulator. This happened to me a couple of years ago. Same problems. I used a blow dryer on the regulator and it solved the probelm. Water got in the little vent and froze. Just make sure the regulator is in the correct position. KOOBA

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pikechaser

if your getting spark and you have gas to the gas valve..id check the burner orifice. possibly clogged with spider webs,,may have to actually remove the orifice to see, depending on the type of orifice may be tough to tell otherwise

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squid

Haven't really had a chance to look at the suggestions that everyone has come up with until today. When I tried to fire it up today I noticed that once the cover was off it would try to start up, the blower ran for a minute or two and then shut down. It was then I noticed that a red light on the circuit board blinked three times every three seconds. From the installation manual this states this is an ignition lockout fault. Any suggestions? The unit is located in Waconia.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dogzlife000

Squid, post your email address and I will send you a service manual. Although it could be another cause, the most likely in your case is a sail switch failure. If the switch doesn't close, the gas valve will not be energized. Could be a limit switch failure, a dirty edge connector on the circuit board, a plugged main orifice, or a couple of other things. Since you mentioned that it is the first time you attempted to fire it up this season, in all likelihood, it's a mechanical and not electrical failure. My 7920P furnace had a sail switch failure due to a mouse nest in the ducting.

Pete

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squid

Today's the first chance that I've had some time to look into this. The sail switch seems to be working correctly. I was able to remove the blower assembly and found no obstructions to it. With a meter there was continuity with the switch closed. There was continuity across the Limit switch also. After that I swapped out the regulator with no success. The edge connector on the circuit card looked clean and all the connections looked in good conidition also. Having done all of that it's down to the circuit card, thermostat or possibly a defective gas valve. Everyting seems to be working but it just acts like the ignitor doesn't have any juice or the main valve isn't opening up. You can e-mail me at jeffmcleod2@earthlink.net. I'm at whits end on what to do next.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dogzlife000

Jeff, I emailed you the service manual.

What I would do next is to attempt to fire up the furnace and check for voltage at the main valve. Once the blower turns on, there is about a 15 second delay caused by the relay to purge the combustion chamber. Then, if the sail switch closed properly, you should have voltage at the main valve. If no voltage at the main valve, check for voltage at the limit switch (current runs from the sail switch, through the limit switch, and to the main valve). Easy to check and will help to isolate the issue.

Pete

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Finn-Hunk

Take the spring clips that hook up to the battery off. Hook up the bazttery direct with a eyelet or a direct terminal, so that is makes good contact and give this a tryl I had the some problem and just tried mine this way and all I had to do was give the thermostat a slight tap and away the furnace went. The spring clips do not make a good connection.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Squid

Hey folks, the problem has been solved. It was pretty much a mystery to be until I got some help and encourage from DogzLife000. When I took the burner head out there was the mystery. What should have been a empty combustion chamber had been turned into a nesting site. Over the course of the summer some unknown birds had entered through the exhaust outlet and had built one heck of a nest, complete with grass and pine needles. What a mess. The needles had dried out put some of the pitch had stayed behind. The whole furnace had to be removed and with some elbow grease, a wire brush and a vacuum cleaner it finally got cleaned out. After re-installing it there was sigh of relief when it fired up the first time and cycled just like it supposed to.

The lesson learned here for everyone of you that has this type of furnace is that when you put it away after the season make sure you block off the outlet. There will be some disappointed birds next spring but better it be them than me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PierBridge

Glad to hear it....and thanks for keeping us updated.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ice_it_06

There must be a pretty good sized open outlet on it I assume.

I have my first Suburban furnace whick looks the same of a Atwood but it has a spring loaded screen cover over both vents which I assume is to prevent what happened to you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • Rick
      Recreational netting for whitefish and tullibee (cisco) is anticipated to open on several Schedule I Lakes in the Grand Rapids fisheries work area beginning in late October, according to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources. Schedule I Lakes, which are more susceptible to sudden changes that impact water temperatures, will be opened and closed on a 48-hour notice posted at lake accesses, other public places, and the DNR website. Schedule II Lakes, will open Nov. 3. Schedule I Lakes (48 hour notice) Anticipated opening dates are as follows: Friday, Oct. 27 through Sunday, Dec.3, for Deer (near Deer River), and Turtle (3.5 inch mesh). Friday, Nov. 3 through Sunday, Dec. 10, for Side and South Sturgeon (1.75 inch mesh). Friday, Nov. 10 through Sunday, Dec. 10, for Big Balsam and Nashwauk (1.75 inch mesh). Schedule II Lakes Lakes open to whitefish and cisco sport netting Friday, Nov. 3 through Sunday, Dec. 10: Bass (north basin). Ball Club. Bowstring*. Little Bowstring. Cut Foot Sioux*. Deer (near Effie). Grave. Jessie. Maple. Pokegama. Round (near Squaw Lake –1.75 inch mesh). Rush Island. Sand (near Max)*. Swan.  (1.75 inch mesh) Twin Lakes (near Marble). Winnibigoshish* and Little Winnibigoshish* (1.75 inch mesh). *Bowstring, Cut Foot Sioux, Sand, Winnibigoshish and Little Winnibigoshish are designated infested waters because of the presence of faucet snails or zebra mussels. Nets and equipment used in infested waters may not be used in any other waterbody unless they have been dried for ten days or frozen for two days. Fishing regulations require that: Netters purchase both a whitefish netting license and angling license. A person may use only one gill net, not exceeding 100 feet in length and 3 feet in width. One end of net must have a pole, stake, or buoy projecting at least two feet above the surface of the water or ice. Nets must have an identification tag attached near the first float of the end that is projecting from the surface of the water or ice. Identification tags must be a minimum of 2 ½ inches by 5/8 inch permanently bearing the name and address of the owner. Identification tags for marking nets are provided by the owner. Nets may not be set after sunset or raised before sunrise. All gill nets must be set and lifted by the licensee only. Anyone assisting in the taking of whitefish or ciscoes must have proper licensing. Nets must be tended at least once every 24 hours and all gamefish and non-target species must be immediately released from the net. A net may not be set in any water deeper than six feet. A net may not be set within 50 feet of another net. Minimum gill net mesh size shall be no less than 1-3/4 or 3-1/2 inch stretch measure depending on the lake (see full list of lake and size regulations online). Nets used in designated infested waters must be dried for a minimum of 10 days or frozen for 2 days before using in a different water body. Nets should be dried for 10 days or frozen for 2 before moving from any lake to another. Nets used in spiny water flea and/or zebra mussel infested waters should be not used in any other waterbody Nets should be transported in sealed container. Whitefish and ciscoes taken by sport gill-netting may not be bought or sold. Whitefish and ciscoes taken by sport gill-netting may not be used as bait. Within the Leech Lake Reservation boundaries, the possession limit for whitefish taken by sport gill-netting is 25, and the possession limit for ciscoes taken by sport gill-netting is 50. Net placement should not inhibit use of the lake by other boaters. About 700 people obtain special permits to net for whitefish-tullibee each year. The DNR bases netting schedules on expected water temperatures, fish abundance and vulnerability of game fish. As the water temperature cools, game fish head to deeper water and whitefish-tullibee come to shallow water for fall spawning.  Netting is allowed when there is little chance that game fish populations would be negatively impacted by recreational netting in shallow water. Find information about sport netting by lake, minimum mesh sizes, and fishing regulations at http://files.dnr.state.mn.us/rlp/regulations/fishing/whitefish-tullibee.pdf or contact the DNR’s Grand Rapids area office at 1201 East Highway 2, Grand Rapids, MN 55744, or call 218-328-8836. Discuss below - to view set the hook here.
    • bbfenatic
      It seemed cheap to me for all the functionality.
    • Coleman
      I think I'll give it a try today.  Looks like it could be windy, which can help a bit with the down river drift.   I might try to get out Sunday as well after the game.  But, I think it's time to start putting the summer toys away for the year.  Just not the boat yet.  Will keep that out for a another 2-3 weeks.  Will tell you how I do if I get out today.   Another thing I'll add.  I've fished above the SCSU dam a bit this time of year.  Always just went a bit north of the Wilson Park landing and pulled some cranks along the east banks.  Normally did pretty well. Would normally work all the way up past the Hospital.  
    • fishingdad
            I was wondering if anybody that lives on the lake has Satellite Internet Service?  If you do I have a couple of questions-  Who is it through?  What does it cost for the applicable data plan you have?  Do you have any complaints, compliments, concerns about it.         I would like to sign up & do it but I don't want to regret having a 2 year commitment or similar & find out it is bad-horrible connection. Do you burn through the Data extremely fast?  We are up to the cabin almost every weekend April - October  & then every other through the winter so not being there enough isn't the issue just wanting to justify having it.  
    • ZachD
      250 bucks no thanks
    • Bobber221
      Can anyone report on fishing on Rainy River this week?
    • Tony S
      Headed up this weekend for the first trip of the fall.  Thinking about fishing the lake with all the good reports from there, but has anybody been up to Clementson, Frontier or Birchdale  areas recently that could give a report?  Thanks.
    • Cliff Wagenbach
      VG, Good bite most days now! All minnows for me. jigs or lindys. Chubs, shiners, and pike suckers. Found walleyes from 8' to 40' yesterday. Cliff
    • MinnowBuckets
      Thanks for chiming in and sharing how the river has been treating you lately. They sure are fun to catch. I am hoping to get out again this weekend for some more smallie action. Hopefully they are still near where I was able to find them last weekend....
    • Coleman
      I fish pretty much exclusively above the Sartell dam.  I normally try to hit it 2-3 times per week.  Over the last 3 weeks, I thought the fishing was down right ridiculous(even with the crazy high water) at times, 12-20 fish in a hour or two before sunset.  I found them right up on the bank, and of course in slower moving water.  There are a few spots north of the dam that are great places for high water.  Some larger areas where the water can swirl around and create backwash.  In fact, I'll point my boat down right and put spot lock on, because the water is flowing back up river, and just cast parallel with the bank.  Most of the time I'll throw a Scatter rap, then when I see a fish chasing bait, I'll throw out a wacky rig.   I went out last weekend to a spot I've been hitting, and the fish have diminished big time.  Caught 6 in a couple hours.  Then I went out last night, and caught one walleye.   So, with that in mind I figured they had to of gone to the deeper rock piles.  And, sure enough, I caught 2 just before sunset, then I headed in.   If you have SI, just drive down or up river and look for large groups of rock piles.  Go up river from them, and try and do a controlled drift over the rocks.  I normally use a jig and a tube.  And there's no mistaken them when they hit.   Even a few eyes mixed in every once in a while.