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rod building


uffdapete

Question

I am just getting started and would like to make a few rods for myself and maybe a few for Christmas presents. It will never be a business for me for several reasons.

My question is this - it would appear to me that the guides on most factory rods, especially lower-end rods, are not wrapped with thread or by hand as we know it.
How then are the guides put on the rods? Do they use some sort of a shrink-wrap that cures with heat or some other means?

And are those wraps available to the public?
What are the pros and cons of that type of wrap? The wrapping is one part of the process I am not good at, nor do I enjoy. There are definite limitations to what I do well with my hands and handwrapping beyond those limits.

Any help sincerely appreciated!

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I don't know what others will say, but I would stay away from shrink wrap wraps. There is a reason those are used on cheap rods, like my daughter's Scooby Doobie Doo rod.

Wrapping with thread is hard to get down, but with a little practice it becomes pretty easy. I build rods only for myself, and I don't get into fancy wraps or anything like that. I've got two Avids and a GL3 that I'm working on now, and they will have black wraps only. I don't really care so much for the cosmetics of rods, I prefer to have them perform the way I want the to(not that special wraps would hinder performance).

Tight wraps wink.gif
-NotBLM

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Are you referring to the clear looking stuff that holds the guide on? If it is that is called flex coat and is a 2 part epoxy.It is not hard to apply but takes about 8 hours to cure and the rod has to rotate while curing.This is what you are going to want to use if you are going to build a rod and tie the guides on with thread.

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I would stick to wrapping your rods with thread or some other type of string (fishing line, etc.) What exactly do you find difficult? Do you own a good wrapping tool? You don't need anything fancy like a power wrapper, but I wouldn't dare wrap a rod with a book for a tensioner and my knees for a blank rest either.

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I don't mind putting the time in learning and practicing but was just wondering if there were viable alternatives. It doesn't sound like there are.

The difficulty is mostly dealing with some arthritis. Working at in shorter segments will probably help.

Appreciate the replies - you can just about always find good answers on this site!!!

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Im not sure how you are starting out but I just took a 2 day class thru big lake community ed and it was well worth it.If you need some info let me know.If you want to build the rod right you are going to want to tie on the eyes and flex coat them as this alows the rod to flex where the eyes are located.If you used shrink wrap I think graphite would probably break if it couldnt flex at these points.As for tieing getting it started can be a little tricky but after that you rotate the rod to roll it on.I also just bought a basic thread winder thru cabelas for $40 with a thread tensioner.I was going to make one but I wouldnt have saved much.Good luck

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rmh2o - I'm curious, how much did the class at Big Lake cost to attend? What sort of things did they teach/show you? What kind of supplies were used?

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By all means take a class. The community ed class that I teach costs $15 plus cost of materials. Learn from somebody that has experience and it will go much better. There are also numerous books available that are very informative. Flexcoat has a video that is very good for rookies. As far as shrinkwrap-no way! Looks cheap and,imho,unprofessional. Handwrapping is the only way to go for securing guides. Just takes practice. Take your time and after doing a few guides it just gets easier. If I can answer any questions or be of help e-mail me at [email protected] and I will try and be as helpful as possible. Rod Engel

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I took a 3 day class a month ago from an icon in the rod building business in the Rochester area and that's what got me started. I'll be spending more one on one time with him!

The consensus from several sources is there is no alternative. If fact a rep from an internet rod building supply said all rods (at least all worthy of a reel) are indeed wrapped with thread. So if anybody else has had the same question, hopefully it's been answered by the posts here by pros and amateurs.

Now I've got a question about handles. I have a lathe and would like to turn my own wood handles and need to know if it's possible to drill the hole exactly in the center without a drill press. Seems like you'd need to drill before turning to ensure centering but if the hole isn't at least near the center of the block to start that magnifies the wobble on the lathe and creates other problems. Any other turning hints would be appreciated too.

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uffdapete - I've turned 3-4 full handles (split grips) and several reel seat inserts. I use the lathe to turn a piece of stock into the desired handle. I use a spur center in the headstock and live center in the tailstock. Once you've finished turning the handle piece, knock the live center out of the headstock and put a chuck on. Chuck the hadle piece. Next, I'll knock out the live center in the tailstock and put a drill chuck in its place. Finally, put a drill bit into the chuck on the tailstock and do yourself some center drilling.

*Tip - Sometimes the taper on the handle piece makes it tricky to get it sit into the headstock chuck correctly. When this is the case, I'll just turn the lathe on at lower rpm's and use my hand to center the handle piece in the chuck.

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The cost of the class was $16 and the kit I purchased to build a walleye jig rod was $45.The kit included blank cork handle reel seat and guides.The instructor provided all the other supplies like glue thread masking tape etc.We used the basic method to build a rod wich was a cup to put the thread in a book for a tensioner and some vee blocks to set the rod in.This actually works very well.I would still recomend the $40 wraper from cabelas as stated in my last post.We assembled the rod in class over 2 nights and then I went over to his house in anoka and applied the flex coat as it has to be rotated for about 8 hours after applied.In fact I just picked up the rod today and it turned out great.If you are just getting started I would highly recomend taking a class you will learn a lot.Im sure rod teaches a good class also.If you have any questions let me know but I will be gone for the next few days.

[This message has been edited by rmh2o (edited 04-08-2004).]

[This message has been edited by rmh2o (edited 04-08-2004).]

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I also just got into rod building and I went over to Thorne Bros in Fridley and took their class and they taught me alot and highly recommend going there. It's not like your normal "class" they sit down one on one with you and help you along building your rod. I have since build one more rod on my own at home and both turned out great. I plan to build another shortly.

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