Guests - If You want access to member only forums on FM. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on Fishing Minnesota.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
hoggs222

Possessed Fish House Lights

Recommended Posts

hoggs222    0
hoggs222

I have a wheelhouse where the lights are possessed. 4 flat plug, brand new wiring straight back to the lights, new bulbs, new ground, etc.

Lights don't work....I removed the ground behind the lights then running lights work, blinkers work, except brakelights. When you hit the brake, lights turn off.

Any ideas?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Eric Wettschreck    0
Eric Wettschreck

Do all your truck lights work?

I ask cuz I had a similar problem, not identical but similar, and it turned out I had a tail light out on my truck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Shack    16
Shack

Quote:


I removed the ground behind the lights


Where is this ground?

What year truck and model?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
storm_rider_1    0
storm_rider_1

this happened to my buddys boat trailer lights, and it was a bad ground on the truck side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hoggs222    0
hoggs222

Tried on 2 different trucks. 2001 Jeep Gr. Cherokee Laredo and my buddys F-150. Snowmobile trailer works fine with both.

The ground is behind each of the lights on the siding of the fishhouse. Also there is a ground on the tongue (white wire for the 4 flat plug).

Everything worked just fine when I dropped it off for storage last spring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Surface Tension    262
Surface Tension

I think its the ground also.

Hook it up to your truck. Take a jumper cable and hook it onto the frame of the truck then on the trailer frame. Make sure you have good contact to bare rust free metal.

Do the lights work now? If so clean the trailers ground connection. Check for an open between the ground connection and plug.

If that wasn't the problem, check the ground at BOTH taillights for a good clean connection. Also, unplug from the truck and clean the light bulbs socket. The two + contacts and the - wall of the socket.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sparcebag    1
sparcebag

Good info here If it yet gives problems when grounds are cleaned.try reverse wireing hook a batt. with pigtails to each light,then go back to plug and check with 12V tester each wire & ground,if ya cant get juice there you'll know which wire to trouble shoot,you'll also know which wire controls which fixtures.If your checkin lites with switches make sure there ON position.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Shack    16
Shack

Yes, what sparce said is called back probing. Basically you are running a positive current threw the ground wires and grounding at the other end with a test light, to see which wire/ground point will not let current travel threw. You can run negative current instead of positive current threw ground wires, but with cars, I have found running the positive threw the suspect wire, helps shows a weak/corroded point much better than sending negative threw suspect wire. IMO

But, it sounds like the ground wire is the trailer frame its self. Now what I would do then is take a Vex. Battery or car battery and place next to trailer tong, connect with test lead (wire with alligator clips on both ends) from positive post on battery to the ground prong on trailer flat 4 plug in. Then (easier said than done), run another test lead from negative post on battery to rear trailer lights. On the other end of this test lead, clip test light and probe ground points inside or on the housing of trail lights (not the contact point to trailer). If the test light lights up, that ground connection is good, if it does not light up, you have found which light is not getting a good ground/current traveling to that point. Before you go to the rear trailer lights (and if trailer grounds it self at tong/frame), probe the trailer frame at tong to see if ground is getting from trailer 4 prong plug to frame. If test light does not light up, then your ground issue is between the 4 prong plug and the point it first connects to trailer at tong. This would be a great time saver, if you have ground wires on each side running the length of trailer. At least gives you an idea of where to start.

This sounds hard, but could be done in a half hour if you have wires for test leads.

I would how ever check tightness and clean all grounds. There should be three ground points (at least) for tail/signals/brake. Two at each side of lights in rear of trailer and one from 4 prong plug wiring harness by trailer jacking area.

Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The_Duckslayer    0
The_Duckslayer

Quote:

The ground is behind each of the lights on the siding of the fishhouse. Also there is a ground on the tongue (white wire for the 4 flat plug).


Try grounding the siding to the frame of the trailer, or the lights to the frame of the trailer. My choice would be to ground the lights to the trailer rather than the siding as that is where the ground from the plug is. Have a good one! Take care and N Joy the Hunt././Jimbo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
deadeye    0
deadeye

Ya, I would have to second grounding it to the frame. Most siding that I have seen is aluminum and won't really help much with electricity. Go to the frame and I bet your problems are over.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hoggs222    0
hoggs222

I grounded one of the lights to the frame and that did the trick. Hmmmm. Thanks for all the help!

Now if I could just get the wheelhouse on the ice!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • delcecchi
      Sorry, don't remember TJ Hooker.  Besides I make it a practice to avoid hookers....  (rim shot)
    • TomWehler
        This post is turning into an 80's  TJ HOOKER episode! To fun to turn off an so bad it needs to be made fun of. : )      
    • delcecchi
      This year?   It is new this year.... Apparently a lot of businesses are having trouble hiring seasonal employees.
    • OhioVike
      I have only been there a few times, but that doesn't make any sense based on my visits.  
    • Southern_IL_Boy
      I am headed to MN for my annual trip and wanted to target pike on leech. For the past 5-6 years I have been kayaking smaller lakes around the area but now I am back to having a decent boat for bigger waters. Used to fish the east side flats in Headquarters and Boy bay prior to my kayak days. Usual came earlier in the year as well. Bucktails on weedlines still my best bet or do you think crankbaits are the way to go just off weedlines? Better spots than others? Should be there a few days before / after Labor Day. 
    • Surface Tension
        I believe the  problem here is a hull with rocker.   At different trim and speed the hull does just that, rocks.   Normally you'd trim in, throttle up and once on plane, throttle back to cruise speed and adjust the trim out.    To be trimmed all in at WOT or even cruising speed would make must hulls plow water at the bow.   In the case with rocker you usually find the porpoise stops when you increase speed.   The fin might be enough to lift the transom up and stabilize it.   Let us know what you do and how it works.
    • Daniel Anderson
      Went and tried a new spot... 3 snacky cats. One of them took my rod straight into the river and I had to dive in after it. Good times.
    • mrpike1973
      I use the Daiwa ct r also have 2 of them best out there in my opinion.
    • FishinCT
      Pretty good for me from Monday through Wednesday. Found them from 14-24ft depending on the spot but most fish came from under 20ft. Trust the electronics and motor around til you find a good school. They are hitting pretty well when you find them
    • delcecchi
      A variety.   Abu 5500c3, abu 5600 mag, revo sx, several others.