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Scoot

Rust on my barrel?

10 posts in this topic

Hi,

I opened up my gun case the other day and found that I've got a little rust on the barrel of my gun. Despite the fact that I own half a dozen guns, I don't really know anything about them (I'm pretty strictly a bowhunter). What do I do to fix up my gun and prevent this for happening again or more?

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WD40 and a toothbrush to hopefully get it off. Then just keep them sprayed down with WD40.

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Use some Hoppes No. 9 Powder solvent on a rag, and the rust will come off, assuming its not too deep.

Once you are done, dry the thing off completely and coat all metal surfaces with BreakFree CLP. The CLP is good stuff for rust prevention, and after a couple of rounds of cleaning with CLP, your gun will be about as rust-resistant as you can get with a blued barrel.

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Real fine steel wool saturated with gun oil will take it right off, just be gentle.

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I had that same problem a few years ago. Unfortunately, I ended up with some pit marks. If the rust is surface rust, steel wool will work fine. If the steel wool won't work, you might end up like mine. I used a dab of Naval Jell. Had to do two applications, but the rust was gone. Mine was through the blueing so it left a permanent scar. Couple coats of Perma-blue and it's tough to notice. If your gun is a show gun or collector, I would check with a gunsmith. For mine, it's good enough and has been rust free for four years. But I never store a gun in a gun case anymore. My 2.

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Any good gun oil should take it right off. Its best if you don't keep them in the case, and if they get wet oil them when you get home. I use a paper towel and hoppes #9 and that gets it off, even some that i thought wouldn't.

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FIne steel wool SOAKED with WD-40 worked on my rifle, just make sure it's good and wet to minimize the possible scratching.

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You can use 0000 or 00000 steel wool and oil. The steel wool will be soft enough and fine enough NOT to cause any scratches, and if you don't go too crazy, it will not remove the existing bluing.

Once rust has started, a pit will be formed. Catching it early enough will keep the pit very shallow. Also, where ever there was rust, the bluing will be gone.

DO NOT EVER use any type of rust remover on a gun. The bluing that's on your firearm IS a chemically control rusting process. The other term that is used to describe bluing is called "black oxide".

Because rust removers are used to remove oxidation (iron oxide) it will also remove the bluing just as fast. So that little spot of rust becomes a much larger blemish on the steel. No amount of "cold blue" will match the original. I see a couple of guns each year that shooters have used Navel Jell to remove rust, only to have "white" fingerprints all over the gun.

After the steel wool, keep a coat of oil on the metal, and always wipe the gun after handling.

Lastly, if at all possible, do not store you gun in a case, unless you're absolutely sure the gun is dry and oiled, as well as the case is dry.

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I also would never use rust remover, as was said, bluing is a form of rust. Use a fine steel wool, with alot of gun oil, keep it well oiled from now on. Your other choice is to bring it to a gunsmith, I had to do this with one of my guns, because of a rain storm on my way home from deer hunting and the guns were in the back of the truck, under the 4 wheeler. Anyhow, if there is any pits at all, and you care what the gun looks like, bring it in, and have them redo it. I was told even in minor rust spots, they wouldnt charge much at all, to clean it inspect and, treat a small minor spot.

I only paid $50 to have my gun reblued, the barrel was ok, just the main gun needed redone. But this was an inside discount price! This has been about 5-6 years ago, and you couldnt tell the difference, and it looked bad before it was redone!

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WD 40 is a solvent and probably has caused more damage to guns and stocks over time than just about anything else. Use either a specialty product such as previously mentioned or some light oil and a rag.

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