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castindad

chevy s 10 window motor on drivers side

5 posts in this topic

airjer window on drivers side quit working is this a very tedious job? any help? thanks castindad

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1992 s 10

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The only part that can be a bit problematic is the actual replacing of the motor on the window regulator.

Here's what you are looking at. Remove the door card, it will have a couple of screws in the door handle/armrest and one by the handle to open the door. Using a sturdy putty knife you will be able to pop the door card loose. You will need to unplug the switches for the windows and the locks and then the door card should be free. You will then need to remove the entire regulator assembly from the window. Use masking tape to hold the window up so it does not come crashing down when you remove the regulator. Unbolt the regulator from the window itself. Next you will need to remove the regulator from the door. Some are bolted to the door some are riveted. Riveted ones require you to drill or grind the rivet heads off. Once you have the regulator out of the door, you will need to clamp it in the vise. The rivets that hold the motor to the regulator will need to be drilled. This is the part where you will find out the reason it needs to be clamped in a bench vise. If it is not it will try to retract and you will not be able to install the motor. The new motor will bolt back on to the regulator. Some motor kits come with bolts to bolt the regulator back into the door, some come with pop rivets, some come with nothing. If the kit has rivets or nothing, you will need to track down the rivets at a dealership, and find the rather large pop rivet gun to handle size rivets being used. While at the dealership I would recommend getting the new push clips that hold the door card on as it will make the finished product much nicer. It is not a bad project. Just make sure the wires that run through the rubber tube between the door post and door are not broken. That is also a common problem. If you pull the rubber tube one way or the other, it will be obvious if the wires are broke as the insulation will be busted as well. If you feel it is too much to take on, it should only be 1.5 hours of labor to get a shop to do it for you.

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Very good info.

One other thing to just check. The conduit that goes in the jam by the hinge. Sometimes a wire can break in there. Seen that before is all.

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What DS said! grin.gif

Before you pull the panel off I would check the switch. The switch works by alternating the paths that power and ground use. To simplify think of it this way. The red wire is hot all the time (the colors I am using are hypothetical) the black wire is ground all the time. The orange and blue are two wire s that supply power and ground to the motor. When you push the switch up power comes from the red wire goes through the switch which directs it to the orange wire, the orange wire carries the power to the motor. At the same time the switch is grounding the blue wire which completes the circuit. When you push the switch down it does just the opposite. It sends power through the blue wire and turns the orange wire into the ground wire.

I needed to explain that so this makes sense. One wire on the back of the switch should have power all the time. One wire will be grounded all the time. If you hold the switch up one and only one additional wire should power up. the same for pushing down. The switch may be bad If more than one wire powers up while pushing the switch in either position. Essentially the switch is not providing a ground for which ever position causes the two wires to power up.

One thing I like to do before I remove the motor is tap on it while pushing the up or down button. If it starts working then I know I am on the right track!

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