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When you guys are trolling cranks do you use steel leaders?

I dont like to use them but it's frustrating not to mention expensive when a pike breaks off with the lure. Just wondering if someone had a good solution to this problem.

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You could try a short section of fluorocarbon leader material. I used 25# on my tip-ups and never had a northern cut me off this last winter. (I didn't have any real big northerns on.)...It would be more clear than a steel leader but might take away from the lures action.

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No leaders just snaps. I'm willing to sacrifice a few lures for the occassional time it does happen.

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I have been using 10# flurocarbon which I really like maybe I'll try stepping up in size.

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Nope. No steel leaders for me. The only time I would use one is when Muskie fishing. I do use two feet of 17lb Vanish as a leader. Most of the time when trolling I use 8, 10 or 14lb Fireline with 2 feet of 17lb Vanish joined to the Fireline with a Uni-Knot then a No2 cross snap. A good fast Action, medium or medium light rod 7feet long and you are set. With this setup you should be able to feel weeds sliding down the line and hit the uni-knot before fouling your lure. 7foot rods work well at getting the lure away from the boat.

The trolling I'm talking about here is flatlining crankbait and spoons for fish up to 20lbs in 20FOW or less.

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Thanks thats the answer I was looking for. Looks like I need to increase the test on my leader. Thanks for the response and if you don't mind me asking what do you do differant for deeper than 20 fow?

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I hate to speak for Muddog but he doesn't understand "20' or deeper". grin.gif

If you want to get deeper, reduce your main line # test but keep your leader # test the same.

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Most lures that dig deeper then 20' tend to put a little to much bend in a Med-light rod. The lures that I mentioned are 10-12 foot runners with 6lb fireline and 75' of line out. If you want to go deeper and work a breakline (top or bottom) you don't want to have over 100' of line out. When working an out side turn on a deep side break line it is to easy for your lure to take a short cut across the break and miss the point. The same for inside turns. This is where I catch 95% of my fish!

So, if your fishing a slow taper, bar top or a flat just let out more line. If you are going to fish around a deep breakline get out the deeper divers that dig down quick and step up to a med-heavy or heavy rod.

The more line you have out, the less control of the lure you have.

Then there are snap-weight, fox river rigs and I'm sick of typing.

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Quote:

Then there are snap-weight, fox river rigs and I'm sick of typing.


That's funny right there! grin.gif

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Try this Muddog, "Don't be afraid to change poles or baits, try shallow, deep or anywhere in-between." Save your finger strength for fishing. wink.gifgrin.gif

L2f

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I have had great luck with 30lb. fire line and a medium action rod, 7foot. I use a rapala knot to retain lure action. Troll with the drag a little loose and tighten it up if needed. Have not been bit off in years, and the loose drag keeps from tearing out hooks. Most newer reels have easy to access drags that can be adjusted on the fly for when a big fish hits.

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On days with a bright sun try a gold/black or gold/orange. The higher the sun the better! Jointed grappler shads and Hot & Tots (1/4oz) for 9-13 FOW in those 2 colors have been HOT, HOT, HOT. Low sun or cloud cover use the Perch or Firetiger.

That something I pulled from the Walleye Perch area.

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