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filling holes in aluminum boat


hovermn

Question

I just bought an older 14' aluminum boat for cheap and plan on restoring it, and adding a few personal touches as well. Wasn't there was a thread a while ago that touched on filling holes in an aluminum boat. Mine is a 1960 Crestliner and has seen plenty of modifications, resulting in many empty holes and random bolts in the sides of the boat. What's the best way to fill them? Can a guy just braze them shut and grind smooth, or are rivets the way to go? If I had to guess, I'd say there will be something like 30-40 holes to fill, possibily more as the top trim is missing, and replaced by plywood sandwhiching the sides (that HAS to go!) Yeah, amazingly enough it holds water! grin.gif

Thanks

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If the holes are small enough, then go with rivets. For the larger ones, a qualified aluminum welder would be your best bet.

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I have very little invested in this boat, so a qualified welder is way out of the question, probably cost me 4x what I have into it now. Would brazing work? I'd rather do the work myself. I suppose I could use the MIG welder as I do have argon.

How about this. Any idea where I can find an aluminum top rail trim for the sides? It's missing that, too.

Thanks!

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Google "Dura Fix" its a "low temperature" aluminum weld.

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Ahh, that's what I was looking for. Thanks.

I bought this boat more as a project, an excuse to work on something this summer and possibily buy new tools grin.gif

So any ideas on a top rail for the sides? Valv, any ideas?

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Do you want to buy a new top rail? Because that may get expensive.

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HTS-735 II is a "Second Generation" fluxless low-heat brazing rod for nonferrous metals. HTS-735 II will successfully join all aluminum alloys, including those that are not successfully joined by high temperature brazing. When drawn over heated aluminum, HTS-735 II penetrates the aluminum oxide creating a bond that is stronger than the original commercial aluminum. The electrode potential between HTS-735 II and aluminum is so slight that electrochemical corrosion is never a problem. HTS-735 II joints will last permanently in normal or protected environments. They have lasted 10+ years under severe conditions.

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There Ya go hover use your MIG & argon just get a spool of aluminum wire.GOOD PRACTCE!! I do small aluminum repairs on my boats that way.mostly where transducers were mounted and bilge pumps,when the old holes dont match the new. cool.gif

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Sparcebag, is it tough to close these holes with mig aluminum.

I just bought a small welder and would like to try it, how about the stuff behind the hull, is it going to get very hot?

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Hey Valv,

Any idea where a person could find alumimum top molding for the boat? I may have found some canoe top molding, but it may be a bit light for a fishing boat.

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I really don't know where to find it. I don't have anything like that.

I have new transoms, and other parts but not top rails. I am afraid to say the MFG is the only place to go, but you won't like the prices.

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im redoing a 18ft lund for duck hunying i have 18ft of top rail i only need 2 or 3 feet of it give me a call 507-351-7323

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I found this but it's the one for a fiberglass canoe. Think it would work?

[image]web page[/image]

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  • 'we have more fun' FishingMN Creators

Aluminum T channel or angle, use small relief cuts and weld for the radius. Or square tubing, use a tubing bender for the radius.

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hovermn:

Mind if I ask where you found the rubrail for the canoe and how much it costs? I'm building a canoe, and have been debating whether to go with wood or metal for a rubrail.

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Valv I posted last night and removed it late!I thought I made it sound easy to weld Alum.The wires cheap the gas small bottle is bout $30.00 I probably went through 90-120 dollars worth a gas befor I got a bit of a hang to it! PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE Then weld the boat!!

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Quote:

hovermn:

Mind if I ask where you found the rubrail for the canoe and how much it costs? I'm building a canoe, and have been debating whether to go with wood or metal for a rubrail.


Google tacomarine They have all sorts of extruded aluminum.

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Have you seen that infomercial called allumalloy(sp). All you need is a propane torch. They claim it can fix aluminum boat hull problems.

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  • 'we have more fun' FishingMN Creators

Anytime, have fun with the project.

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How much does a new/used Transom go for? Also do you have any of your left over/used Livewells?

Thanks Valv

ShawnnyB

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Yea I've seen and wanted to get some to try, but I lost info and don't see commerical anymore.Do you have add.? There is also some called Alcor propane is hot enough but weld supply said it was hard to use for holes so I never tried.I have recently ran some MIG beads on a rip in a boat Its hard not to burn through! but I'm gettin it better expensive tho!

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Thanks hovermn... Looks like they have all sorts of goodies available...

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Hovermn....Google Extrude-A-Trim, they have a gunnel trim rail you may be interested in.

bm_3086.gif

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Now that looks like something. I'll check that out!

Thanks!

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  • 'we have more fun' FishingMN Creators

RobertELee, nice find, if its available and reasonable I'd go that route.

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Thought I'd pass along some info. I got a quote from Extrude-a-trim that RobertELee found. It's $28.38 US per 16' section + shipping from Toronto, Ontario. Seems pretty reasonable, but the shipping will kill me. They said they're willing to cut the sections in half for cheaper shipping if I'd like.

I'll have to look into ways to bend the stuff nicely to form the curve. A pipe bender would do it, but I'm not sure how graceful the curve would be. Any thoughts?

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