• RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

Sign in to follow this  
Whoaru99

Need help with muzzleloader sights.

Recommended Posts

Whoaru99

I have a CVA Hunterbolt and I have replaced the barrel-mounted rear sight with a Williams WGRS peep sight that is mounted to the rear most factory drilled/tapped scope mount holes.

I set the rear sight to mid-height on the ramp and fired off three shots at 10 yards. 10 yards should be my first line of sight crossing according to a ballistics program so I usually make first zero at that point then fine tune in at a longer distance from there.

The problem is that with the sight at mid-way up the ramp, I'm shooting 3.25" low at 10yd. I can get almost zeroed by moving the ramp way to the top, but then I have no more adjustments for other possible loads.

So, can anyone tell me how much I have to change the front sight (will require replacement I'm thinking) to put the gun close to zeroed at 10yds?

The front sight is approximately 0.98" above the bore center, and the rear at mid-ramp is about 1.09" above bore center. The distance between the sights is about 27.75".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Whoaru99

I have found my answer here

But I am still scratching my head how it could be off that far at only 10 yards.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Gordie

Whoaru99 could you possibly tell me where you picked up the peeps for your gun? and what the cost was? are you running a hooded sight on the front of your barrel? And thats a great link on how sights work I've got a traditions smoke pole that needs a taller front sight. thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Whoaru99

The rear peep was purchased at Cabela's in Rogers. The new front sight ramp, blade, and different peep apertures were ordered from Midway.

There were some places that better prices than Midway, but they had it all in stock vs. ordering bits and pieces from a couple different places.

You might just want to check the Williams Sights website. They might have a rear peep, front Firesight kit for yours.

If you have to piece it together (rear peep, different front firesight), it'll probably be in the $50-$75 range.

My front sight is not hooded. It's a red Firesight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lunker651

I think you need to have it zero in at 50yards. All my gun when I sight/zero at 50yards will shoot 1-2" low at 10 yards even with a scope. I don't think it's your sight that has a problem, you just need to zero it at a longer distance. Once zero at 50 yards then you can make the adjustments you need.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Whoaru99

Quote:

I think you need to have it zero in at 50yards. All my gun when I sight/zero at 50yards will shoot 1-2" low at 10 yards even with a scope. I don't think it's your sight that has a problem, you just need to zero it at a longer distance. Once zero at 50 yards then you can make the adjustments you need.


I understand what you're saying, but with a scope I can understand being 1-2" low at 10yd because your scope is typically 1.5", give or take a bit, above the bore centerline. At 10yd there is just a tiny bit of drop, and the bullet trajectory is on it's way up, so that makes sense to me to be about that low.

My open sights are only an inch, give or take, above the bore C/L. So, an inch would be the most I'd expect to be low at 10yd considering the bullet trajectory should be going up at that range.

Also, I've used the first line of sight crossing method to sight in several rifles and it's always worked pretty good. Sight for dead on at the first line of sight crossing then you are at least close on paper further down range.

I'll give it (sighting at further distance) a try this weekend, but geometrically/mathematically, that much correction is a full 1/3" at the sights and there just isn't that much adjustment left.

I'll post a trajectory graph if I can figure out how to do that.

D:\My Documents\JoesDelay.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Whoaru99

Quote:

Quote:

I think you need to have it zero in at 50yards. All my gun when I sight/zero at 50yards will shoot 1-2" low at 10 yards even with a scope. I don't think it's your sight that has a problem, you just need to zero it at a longer distance. Once zero at 50 yards then you can make the adjustments you need.


I understand what you're saying, but with a scope I can understand being 1-2" low at 10yd because your scope is typically 1.5", give or take a bit, above the bore centerline. At 10yd there is just a tiny bit of drop, and the bullet trajectory is on it's way up, so that makes sense to me to be about that low.

My open sights are only an inch, give or take, above the bore C/L. So, an inch would be the most I'd expect to be low at 10yd considering the bullet trajectory should be going up at that range.

Also, I've used the first line of sight crossing method to sight in several rifles and it's always worked pretty good. Sight for dead on at the first line of sight crossing then you are at least close on paper further down range.

I'll give it (sighting at further distance) a try this weekend, but geometrically/mathematically, that much correction is a full 1/3" at the sights and there just isn't that much adjustment left.

I'll post a trajectory graph if I can figure out how to do that.


Here's the chart that shows the trajectory being 1st zero at 10yd. The flatter trace is my scoped .223 for reference.

Zeroed1.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • monstermoose78
      Green has some nice gills. Glad to hear they are biting
    • Fully Kraeusened
      I’m wishing you luck my friend. It’s hard to get away and it can be very deflating when the weather doesn’t cooperate. 
    • MinDak Hunter
      Hit Green for a couple hours this afternoon, almost zero traffic and the sunnies were active. It’s nice to see this lake is back!
    • jigginjim
      still frozen in?
    • CigarGuy
      Was out for a while on the Partridge River this afternoon, didn't have any minnows, managed one 13" crappie on Gulp waxes.  But, the old Strikemaster almost bottomed out-close to 30" of ice.
    • SkunkedAgain
      I don't know what your Helix 7 requires in the manual, but a quick look would figure out if that 3amp is too small. Definitely wire your sonar to the motor battery using the correct gauge wire and fuse. If you connect it to another battery, it should be a stand-alone. Connecting to the trolling motor battery will generate interference.
    • SkunkedAgain
      I've done cheeks quite a few times and they are always good. They take only a few seconds to carve out. I like to get the most out of the things I kill to eat, so I'm not afraid to pull them out of smaller ones. I'm glad to see that so many people picked up a new tip. That's the point of congregating on these forums. I wonder how many non-registered folks will read this and learn something new.
    • CigarGuy
      I've been doing them for many years.  Like Cliff, a friend who was a guide on LOW brought some out prior to the main course-been doing it since. 
    • Tom Sawyer
      With the snow cover completely gone and lots of standing water, 60s in the forecast, with plenty of sunny days next week, and a good chance of rain mid-week; this may be my last weekend on the ice, South of Hwy 210 anyway . Fish have really been on the chew
    • Alex wilhelmi
      hey guys..i installed the helix 7. took it out the other day. it keeps  randomly shutting down, with the motor off it will stay on no problem. Heres where i think i f'd up. i used the same 3 amp fuse harness from the old sonar that came with the boat, the old hb depth only kind. its wired right to the ignition wire. i used the correct gauge wire where i needed it. im guessing its not getting enough juice? also if i wired it direct to a separate battery, how do i go about hooking up and on board charger? or would i be ok just wiring direct to the battery that runs the motor? thanks for any advice. those musky lures look so bad ass! nice work !!