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Posted

Thanks to End of the Line, and Surface Tension I just bought a couple Cannon Uni-Trolls...(decided lesser is always bad) Now I need some rods, releases, balls, everything really...I need recommendations...This downrigger thing is totally foreign to me. Any help very much appreciated..

Posted

Jerk 'em...I just bought used ones...total newbie to it also. Was out on the lake today, and caught my first laker on my own equipment, on my own. Felt kinda good. Just don't ask how i did it.... Weird story. Now...also...i think one of the switches in one of my riggers is bad. Who said buying 30 year old cannons was a bad idea? Now i gotta scope out where to get a new switch for it!

Posted

Woodie go to Marine General. Best bet to find those parts in Duluth. I still have a few spoons left if ya need them. Like I say nothing fancy but they will catch fish.

  • 'we have more fun' FishingMN Creators
Posted

Glad to help. Just to refresh everyone, jerkin'm is rigging and boat for inland lakers.

About releases, theres basicly 3 types but in different styles. In-line, shaker and stackers. I like Blacks, Roemer and Walker in-line releases. These go between the weight and cable. They seem have the best consistency in release tension. Shaker style releases will attach to the weight with a cross-lock and have a length of cable attached to a pinch pad type release. With the rod loaded up you'll see the rod bounce when a fish hits which gives them the name Shaker. Stackers will allow you to add a second line anywhere along the down rigger cable. I like the Roemers for this.

Even though you'll be downrigging on inland lakes I'd use 10 lb weights. The reason why is less blow back and knowing your precise depth when DRing close bottom is a plus. Another reason why is you'll have better hookups with the heavier weights. When that fish strikes, its the resistance from the weight that drive in the hooks. If you decide to take the boat out on Superior I'd go with 12lb balls or pancake weights.

Shimano TDR and Diawa, Heartland downrigger rods are inexpensive and will work just fine. Often you'll see them combo'ed with an Okuma or Penn 209.

Posted

Great info..just the stuff I was looking for.

Posted

For reels I really like the Diawa Sealines but if they are too spendy look into the Okuma line of reels. More reel for the buck. I have had good luck with my heartland rods and my gander telescoping board rods are great for the price too. Cabelas also has some nice rods and the Shimano rods are nice but a bit spendy.

I agree go with the 10# balls and I like the simple shaker releases off the balls. I think mine are Cannon releases. Simple to use and cheap. The roamers are nice for stacking.

Put some 14-20# trilene XT in clear on your reels and you should be set.

Posted

Well, you have received some great advice so far.

I would also look @ shimano talora rods (glass & graphite) for rigger rods. Both the ML and Med work. Almost ant baitcaster will work. As you see, you will learn and upgrade as you go along to your preferences.

Heavier weights help! It gives you a more accurate depth rate. Many times out there, a couple feet make the difference. If you are fortunate enough to catch so many fish your arms are sore from the extra weight, then switch. grin.gif

Posted

So, mono is the thing to use for line? No braids? I was at Fleet today and the rods they had seemed super light and noodleish....Is that the way most are? I was expecting a far stiffer rod.

Posted

Most guys seem to use mono. Some use Power Pro. I myself use a little of both. Thing with superlines is you have to wrap them before putting into releases or they slip.

I like power pro on my riggers and mono mostly on boards. Mono is cheaper though and will catch you many many fish. If your new to the game go mono. If you find you like it and want to get more and better equipment then spool a rod/reel up with PP and see how ya like it.

Posted

I like power pro the deeper you fish the more hook up's you will get. make sure you have a six foot leader of mono 17lbs and do not set the hook just start realing. Or you will pull the hook's out good fishing. smirk.gif

Posted

like SK said, braid for deeper. OK, I use 30-50# braids for my bottom lines on riggers. For stacker's I use mono.

Now, if you start pulling large flashers and fly's at any speed you might want to use braids or heavier mono. The reason you can go Heavy mono is for for a flasher fly combo you don't need the lighter line for action of the bait, the flasher/dodger does that. I run 14# mono - a lot of charter's run 17# but there is the rookie factor involved there so they need extra help. You can set drags loose, but you can't always assume someone didn't bump or adjust them when you are not looking. I like lighter lines for boards because of bait action. I also, think you should have the fish fight away from the boat and then come in tired. You usually keep most of the fish you catch on the pond (for various reasons). The few you can't (Steelhead's), you will usually know right away you have them. (Aerial Shows!) and in spring (out of the duluth/superior entry's).

See ya on the H2O~

B2

Posted

I have a few flies on order...sounds like I need a few flashers as well? Suggestions on brands? Sizes? Thanks for the help...

Posted

There is so much to know when using meet shocked.gif. I would go out with some body to help you out and save you some $$$$$$$ on what works better than the other. But speed is the biggest thing you have to go slow 1.6 to 1.9 miles GPS speed works the best there are dodgers and rotators out there dodgers are the more forgiving than the others and the flyes and color make the difference if it is bright or cloudy out. I hope you can find some one to take you out and learn what works and how they run them and go from there good fishing.... cool.gif

Posted

Some people I have talked to said I may be able to get by with some of my heavy action bass gear on the riggers...Is this possible? I have some 7ft heavy flippin' type gear with the larger ambassaeur reels on them. I hadn't heard of using lighter tackle on them but would like to try it. I have a couple 8 1/2 foot heavy rigger rods now as well...

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Kettle
      Those kidz must learn good
    • Kettle
      It is  pretty shiny piece of equipment. I was able to purchase it on my scab job wages 😆 I don't think I'll update the electronics any time soon, 3 screens is enough?
    • smurfy
      🤣 not near as shiny and spendy as that livescope toy. Thats kinda like bling ain't it? besides i'm on a paultry union pension  🫣
    • Kettle
      I mean to catch pike you just need a shiny object...
    • leech~~
      Just another "Words matter"   Voting on school levy. This was posted on the School "education district" building door.  We had a nice cold walk all the way around the building! The arrow was added, after we educated them! 😒
    • Wanderer
      Nope!  But it’s more funner!
    • smurfy
      I don't need no livescope to catch fish....🤔🤪  It's all in how ya wiggle the worm!😜 Just sayin  🤣
    • Kettle
      Obviously this is more of a hot topic due to forward facing sonar. With that being said, I know people who have pulled crappies out of basins 40+ deep since the fl-8 and zercom flashers came out. That's over 30 years ago. I do think there's a push to ban these in MN and I could see them doing it here. They'll have to pay my livescope from my cold dead hands 😆 on days I can't catch a walleye jigging or rigging it's nice to turn it on and throw corks at individual fish
    • Kettle
      It wasn't just you, I was fishing west of you about an hour on Monday. Fished 8am-4pm, no fish, two keeper walleye and one small one from 4pm-630pm. Marked a lot of fish, they would come up to a jig and swim away. They were skittish to the dead stick too
    • leech~~
      I wonder like divers, if we let them decompress every 10' for 1/2hr. If that would help?  🤔  It would slow the bite down a bit!  🤭
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