• GUESTS

    If You  want access  to member only forums on FM, You will need to Sign-in or  Sign-Up now .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member.

  • Join In - We Share Fishing Reports & Outdoor Information Here

     
      You know what we all love...

      The same things you do!!!! Share what you love & enjoy in the outdoors as well as thank those whose posts you 'appreciate.'

      Have Fun!!!

  • 0
Sign in to follow this  
Slyster

Can you cut out part of an aluminum bench? How?

Question

Slyster

It's boat project time time.. right? Thought up an improvement for my small 14' Lund rowboat.. it has 3 benches (with the front two under a carpeted wood deck)..

My idea- cut the hole in the back side of the middle bench to store four Plano type plastic lure boxes- perhaps only a 12"x10" hole. Thought it would great to have the boxes out of the way.. always a problem in this small boat. Two questions.

1- Any structural concerns with that weakening the boat?

2- HOW do you cut aluminum? It's not very thick.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

11 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0
Steve Bakken

We cut sections out of benches all the time at our shop. The key is to make sure to replace the support that the center of the bench provided, whether that be brackets, attaching it to a floor, etc. As for cutting, we usually use a cut-off wheel, but a jigsaw with a metal bit works well, too. Good luck with your project.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Surface Tension

It can be easily done. Thing to keep in mind is your going to be removing some flotation but that can be added under your carpeted deck.

You can buy the hatch from Cabelas. It will include the lid and flange. You'll then cut out the top of the bench and insert the hatch. Drill a hole large enough to get a bi-metal jig saw blade in, proceed to cut out a pattern. You won't be weakening the seat because your not going to cut past the bend, thats where the strength is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Surface Tension

I was typing as you were posting Steve.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Slyster

Tension.. what do you mean by "hatch"... do they make something relatd to my idea? You can get jigsaw metal cutting blades? Didn't know that.. that's good to hear! I have a good ol' jig saw... used it just today to cut out the new wooden bench top for the rear seat. also going to paint the boat tomorrow... I'll post pix under the "post your open water pix" post when I am done.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Slyster

I think I found what you are referring to! Called a 'locker' on the cablas site... that just MIGHT work. With slots and a door etc. Have to do some measuring tomorrow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
delmuts

they should have them in different sizes too!( i know BPS. does) i.e. ; for the 3700's or 3600's, and holds two or four boxes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Surface Tension

BSP, Overton's, Cabelas, they all sell them and in different sizes. You can go with just the lid and flange or you can get that along with an interior w/ or w/o slots for trays. I have a a locker with trays in one of my boats and I don't use it. The vibrations from travel down the roads and hwy will ruin any tackle you put in them. That locker is mounted vertical and the door usually opens by itself, spilling the contents on the floor. You might consider putting your hatch on the top of the bench.

Back to the strength part. A bench seat starts out as a sheet of aluminum. Theres no strength to it. Its the bends that give it shape and strength. As long as your hole is 1 1/2 from any bend you should be fine and won't need any reinforcement. If you cut to or into a bend your going to have to add support to that area.

Yep the jig saw works good for aluminum. Just go slow and keep downward pressure on your work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Kevin Turner

Good advice so far. I'll just one tip: Lube the jig saw blade with candle wax. It'll cut better...KT

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Slyster

Thanks all! I painted the boat today (thanks to searching the forums here for aluminum boat painting)... looks amazing. Tomorrow I will be doing the cutting into the bench. I am not going to use a locker (can upgrade later) for financial reasons.. but will glue in a front lower lip so the boxes can tip up so they won't fall out.. and the boat is kept in the garage so a hatch isn't that big of a deal right now. Should keep the boxes cleaner and my feet happy. I'll run to Menards tomorrow and get a metal bit for my saw.. I decided to do just a 3 box hole.. I don't think there's enough room for 4. Boat taking shape now! I love the spring boat project days... wouldn't want a boat that didn't need any work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
DTro

sylster, how did your painting go?

I have a 14ft aluminum that I thought I would try to paint this spring. I really don't care how it turns out (mostly goofy riverrats will see it anyways wink.gif), it's full of scratches my thought was just lightly sand and wash with vinegar or TSP and overspray. I'm not painting the bottom or interior, so it should be pretty straightforward.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Slyster

Paint turned out really nice. I just stripped the any old paint that was still there with a nylon brush rotary drill bit... came off very easy.. then cleaned with mineral spirits.. let dry.. sprayed with Rustoleum "Professional" red.. 1 large can per side was enough (Menards).. and it looks like new! I'm sure it will last a few years+ I too don't really care that much.. the boat was so bad. $30 total.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Hoey
      Geese are beginning to flock as I seen a number flying over the past couple days.
    • Better Than Working!
      Our last trip last year required driving through a snow storm! But that time of year is special!
    • Borch
      Will fish around Paynesville, Cass Lake and maybe Osakis.  I generally fish right up to freeze up/firearms deer season in the boat. 
    • Sunset Lodge
      Hello from the NW Angle!   Minnesota walleye fishing has been great using bottom bouncers and a night crawler. Anglers are being selective to fill limits with 16-18” fish as well as a few over 28 released. Most success has been in the mud, off of structure in 21-23 feet and 26-30 feet. The largest fish seem to come from South of Garden Island on crank-baits.   Canadian walleye are also most effectively targeted with bottom bouncers and spinners. Depth has not been as important as being at the bottom of a break line in the flat. Gold with chartreuse has been best as of late.  Musky activity has slowed from the prior weeks but expect it to ramp up with the full moon approaching. Perch have been schooled up on and around reefs topping out around 30 feet.   Water temps remain consistently in the low to mid 70’s.    Remember - fall is the time for trophy fish up at the NW Angle!   Until next week,   Sunset Lodge
    • Better Than Working!
      I am spending Labor Day week on Kabetogama with my wife. Never been to Kab before so I am looking forward to hopefully figuring out a new lake with good multi-species potential. Any tips from anybody would be appreciated. After that it will be the anticipation of late October and Rainy River! That is probably my favorite trip of the year.
    • Rick
      A project to improve long-term water quality and wildlife habitat on Pelican Lake in Wright County may cause some short-term inconvenience for waterfowl hunters this fall, according to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources.  The public water access managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service on the west side of Pelican Lake will not be usable for boats larger than a canoe or kayak, due to lower water levels created by a drawdown of the lake. While boats may be launched from the state-managed public water access on the southwest side of the lake, parking there is limited. Parking is not allowed within the immediate ramp area; it also is prohibited along the shoulders of 40th Street Northeast, the adjacent road. The DNR is in the process of designing and constructing a new public boat access on the northwest corner of Pelican Lake.  The project will be started in the fall, but likely will not be completed this year. Some private lake access may be available by arrangement with local landowners; contact DNR area wildlife manager Fred Bengtson for more information: 320-223-7840. Pelican Lake is in the middle of a multi-year drawdown aimed at improving water quality and creating better habitat for waterfowl and other wildlife. Once considered a waterfowl mecca, slowly rising water levels over some 30 years had killed much of the aquatic vegetation that stabilizes shoreline and provides needed food for migrating ducks. With help from Ducks Unlimited and constitutionally dedicated money from the Legacy Fund, an outlet was created for the lake in 2014 to lower water levels in several stages, with a pumping facility added in 2016. The drawdown will allow soils to consolidate and promote the growth of aquatic vegetation needed by ducks for food and habitat. In addition to providing critical waterfowl habitat, the project also will result in significantly cleaner water. Discuss below - to view set the hook here.
    • monstermoose78
      A friend took this photo this weekend
    • ozzie
      Looks like a fun time on a tranquil lake!!
    • Surface Tension
      Bad electrical connection will create heat.
    • jim curlee
      I have a metal roof on my house near Cook, I installed it about thirteen years ago still looks/works great. Replaced my shingled roof at home(Pine Island) last year, the shingles lasted 17 years before they were lookin pretty tough. That would be twice I've replaced shingles at home in 35 years.   The major problem I have with steel is when the snow melts off of the roof, it will all come off at one time. If your car, or the door you use to get in and out of your house is under the eave's, you WILL have an issue. Last spring enough snow came off of my roof in one melting, that it would have buried, and I'm sure crushed my truck. The snow drift after that melting was about 10' wide, and 4' deep. You better plow it right away, or you will have an ice drift that you cannot remove. The only other issue, is that when it rains it really runs off of the roof. You will get wet standing under the eaves of your house. The rain come's off in sheets.  You could use gutters or deflectors, but the snow coming off in the spring will also remove your gutters/deflectors, guaranteed. A door on the gable end of your house will take care of the rain and snow problem.   Other than that I think the steel roof is great, it is easy to apply, and is guaranteed for 40 years. I don't plan on ever using shingles again, have converted most of my buildings to steel! With shingles you might get 20 years, then you get to hire somebody to come out, and replace your shingles again. LOL And NO, it is not so loud in my house when it rains, that you can't hear yourself think. LOL And No, I don't sell/install steel roofing, I'm just sold on the stuff.   I can't recommend a good or fair roofer/contractor, I do my own work. I can recommend a good/fair electrician/concrete guy. If you pm me, I'll tell you a plumber NOT to hire.   Jim