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Draw length question


Crow Hunter

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Thinking about possibly getting a new bow- I currently shoot a Hoyt Pro Hunter that I have had for many years. I have a 33 inch draw length- I don't see any new bows in catalogs that come close to that. Does anyone know of any bow models that would have a long enough draw for me? Which pro shop or shops in the twin cities would carry them?Thanks.

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Are you sure that is what your draw length is (I'll believe you)? And is that to the end of the arrow or do you have like 3" of arrow out infront of the rest? I am 6'5" with a heck of a wingspan and my draw is only 30". Go to one of those bow shops in the cities and have them measure you for draw length it might help. Besides that I don't know of or have heard of any bows that have that much of an adjustment on draw, not that I am an expert on all the bows out there.

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Like K said.. 33 inch draw is huge... I am 6-3 and monkey arms and have a 31.5" draw length.

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There are bows out there that can go to a 33" draw, but there are very few. I would first check to verify you really due need a 33" draw first.

Here's a simple equation that will get you very close to your actual draw length. Measure your wingspan... subtract 15" from that number... then divide that number by 2. This will give you the approximate AMO draw length you will need. If you have large hands subtract 0.5" and if you have small hands add 0.5" to this value.

Example: My wingspan(not outstretched position and comfortable) is 77". Therefore, (77-15)/2= 31" I will subtract 0.5" for large hands with long fingers so I will have an AMO draw length of 30.5". Note that there is now a difference in the industry standard AMO draw length and the actual draw length the archer measures from the hole in the riser to the apex of the string where the string and arrow connect. Actual draw length is AMO draw length - 1.75". Therefore my actual measured draw length should be 30.5"-1.75" = 28.75". I have yet to find an archer in over 100 I have helped that does not fit to this equation. This will get you within +/- .75" of your draw length to at least 99% of archers. The key to remember in measuring your wingspan is to not out stretch your arms as far as you can to see what your wingspan can be, but to comfortably stretch your arms out to the side.

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Good info Iceman! Do you work at an archery shop? Which one? Always looking for good archery shops in central MN that are staffed by guys that actually shoot vrs the owner whos trying to sell bows.

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I too would like to thank you IceMan...we do appreciate your information here on FM!

Thank You

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I don't work at an archery shop, nor do I trust anyone else besides me to work on my equipment. I do a lot of competetive target shooting and have learned what does and does not work through time. When I am standing on the line I need to be more than just confident that my equipment will perform each time... I need to KNOW that my equipment IS going to perform each time.

Blackjack... Do you belong to the archery club in Wilmar? I have shot a number of tournaments there the last 2 years since I started shooting again and may have seen you there.

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Thanks for the responses guys. Both of the bows I own are marked with a draw length of 33". I shoot a full length arrow and with the string drawn to the corner of my mouth there is very little arrow past the riser. I am 6'5". I measured my wingspan without stretching at 80.375". Using the provided equation, 80.375" - 15" = 65.375"/2 =32.6875" On top of everything else I shoot left handed. I will have to get over to a pro shop and let them measure me again, then see what bows are available that would fit me.

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You guys made me feel better with your discussion anyway. I hunted my first dozen bow seasons with a used 31" bow, that I'd bought & decided fit me plenty well. I'm 6'1" & have monkey arms as well. I went & got measured last year when I got my new bow & they said I only needed a 30" draw length. I kind of questioned that, but I went with what they said & it shoots fine, so they must have been right. I could shoot acceptable with either one really, but at least I know they did know what they were doing.

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Dang Crow, you are a big guy. How much do you weigh? I bet you have trouble finding a lot of things like deer stands, boots, and other stuff that is made for the average guy. Although, I bet you are the first guy everyone looks for when they need help dragging out a deer...LOL! You have the longest DL that I have ever heard of! Good luck!

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jlm, I weigh 225. Yup, shopping is tough. Life ain't easy for us tall guys. grin.gifgrin.gif

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Ok, this isnt a draw length question, but more of a draw wieght question.

I had gotten my new bow a PSE predator, the bow is designed for up to 75 lbs draw weight I believe. It is set @ approx 60 lbs rights now. When I asked the guy if I could get it set for more he told that 60 lbs was good enough for now.

What sense that make?

The bow I used before is is capable for 50 lbs.

The main reason I bought a new bow was for more speed and better performance than the one I had. Now 60 lbs is obviously gonna be faster, but I didnt plan on spending 400 some dollars for a few more feet per second.

I am just curious as to if what he was suggesting makes any sense at all. Im a fairly big boy and can handle well over 60 lbs. He offered no explantion or reasoning as to why 60 lbs is ok for RIGHT NOW.

WAG

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You're paying the big bucks for a new bow, you need to ask him why '60 lbs is ok for RIGHT NOW'.

Being 'overbowed' or shooting too much poundage is a common problem. If you have to point your bow skyward to pull it back, you're shooting too many pounds. Accuracy is more important than poundage, 60 pounds will zip right thru a whitetail - if you hit it in the right spot. If you want to shoot more pounds, get an Allen wrench out and turn your bow up a couple of cranks.

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Thanks for the reply. I just got this feeling from this guy that he felt he had more important things to take care of, I wasnt too pleased with the service I had received. And you are right, I am worried more about accuracy than speed, I was just wondering if was able to shoot more poundage with the same accuracy. Thanks again

WAG

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WAG,

Overbowed does not necessarily mean pulling the bow skyward to pull it back either. When drawing your bow it should feel effortless. In other words if you place your body into position and "PRETEND" to hold a bow you should have the same feeling while "ACTUALLY" holding the bow with the addition of a tensed rhomboid back muscle. When drawing the bow you should not tense your chest muscles(especially your pects), your bow arm muscles should be relaxed(only enough muscle is used to hold the bow into position without your arm collapsing. To do this you need to have bone on bone contact throughout your bow arm so you are not using muscles to keep your bow arm straight. Also, your draw arm should be relaxed. You should not use your biceps and forearms when drawing the bow. You should use the "dumb" muscles in your back to draw and hold the weight of the bow. This will create a substantially steadier sight picture. If you find you are unable to draw your bow by using only your back muscles and you find yourself having to use your forearms and biceps and you DO have close to proper form than you are most likely overbowed.

I will only shoot a maximum of 58 lbs because if I shoot more than that I start to use the improper muscles when drawing the bow. When muscles become tense you are unable to FULLY relax them, this will create vibrations and tremors during the shot process. Therefore, my accuracy deterioates when I start shooting 60lbs or more. Even though I have been able to draw a 110# bow which I did have to pull with every muscle in my body. You could about imagine the "inaccuracy" that I had. When training I usually start off people with lower poundages and work with them on learning how to draw and hold the bow. When they get those muscles identified I will work them up in draw weights.

Hopefully this gives you a little more insight on draw weights and its affects upon accuracy.

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crow hunter my bro is 6' 4'' and still growing.( hes a sophomore in high skool) i was wondering if u had the same problem as him. Is it hard to breathe up there???? LOL........

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Iceman...excellent explanation. understanding back tension is a fundamental key to good shooting form.

even if one CAN pull 70-80lbs, doesn't mean one SHOULD. a relaxed form will be much more beneficial than high poundage and speed.

thanks again, iceman!

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Well, I guess I should have shot my new bow before posting.

60 lbs seems to be just about right. Well lessons learned.

Thanks again for the info guys.

WAG

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