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Boat motor


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I have a question for anyone who would like to respond. I have already posted these questions on the Vermilion forum, but I thought maybe I would see if everybody agrees.

First, I have a 2001 Lund 1675 Explorer tiller with a 2002 Mercury 60HP 4-stroke. I can get on plane fairly quickly with the 12 pitch prop that I have on it with 2 people in the boat. However, I usually have 3 people in the boat, and with 3 people in the boat it takes a long time to get on plane. I do not have a Tach on the motor, but I read that the lower the pitch the more engine RPMs. I'm afraid if I get too low of a pitch I will exceed the max RPMs. I'm just wondering if I should trade up to a 75HP 4-stroke (Max for this boat) or do something else?

Is there that much difference between a 60HP and a 75HP?

Is it worth the extra cost?

What brand of motor does everyone like?

When I do finally plane out, I get about 28-30 MPH. I am satisfied with that as long as it gets on plane quickly, but more top end is always a plus. (especially in bad weather)

Is there a big difference between Stainless Steel and Aluminum props?

Thanks for any input!


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Gee this problem sounds familiar.

I have the 2003 Mercury 60 EFI 4 Stroke on a Lund Pro Angler. Love my Pro Angler but not the Mercury. My problem was a bit worse as it took 1/2 mile plus to get up on plane. The fuel pump went out about 15 hours into the motor and with a back surgery I did not get out on the water for a few months after I had the fuel pump fixed. By then I did not run the motor much. I thought it was plugs so replaced my plugs this spring and hoped it would fix the problem.

This year was same so I took it back to the dealer last week. The motor dyno'd full power so they changed to a 12 pitch prop from a 13 I think. Now runs lot better but still not 100% satisfactory. Still testing and Mille Lacs had a nice chop mid day so I am waiting for less chop to retest top speed.

Point is, if the motor is still under warranty, take it back to the dealer and have them repair it. I got a new prop under warranty for the dealers installation mistake
(Mercury fault too). My next motor in a few year will be a Honda or Yamaha and I will always max out the HP on a 4 stroke. 60 HP should push the boat OK so no use taking a financial hit replacing a motor this early in the depreciation schedule.

Good Luck. And after you get your boat back, check the drain plug. My %^%^*% dealer took it out and since I don't, I did not check. One mile out on Mille Lacs Saturday, I have water flowing into the floor. Took 30 minutes for the bilge to get all the water out. Will get a different dealer next Lund purchase!!

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We have a 2001 merec 60 hp 4 stroke on a 1987 Lund Renegade. WAY better than the 45 2 stroke was. with 2 people and no wind, tops at 33mph, against wind, 30mph, 3 ppl +wind 28mph. 4 strokes are notorious for getting up slow and ares does two but with 40% better fuel economy AND 15 more ponies, was a good change. Much quieter too.

Our boat max is 90 hp. We wanted to go 75hp and the dealer suggested 90 as the 75 and 90 are the same motor just different set up. We said ok. $550 more $$. Got there and found the weight was the issue. 2 stroke 45 weighed 218# - 60hp 4 stroke = 236# 75/90hp 4 storke = 400#!! with the smaller style boat, the dealer was afraid to add the extra weight. He had seen where people traded up, added 200# and then when 2 guys went to the back to play a fish, over the back the water came! Going to the bigger motor was like putting another guy back on the motor.

Not familar with your boat, but I always say max out the hp, it's always worth the money, but be sure the boat will handle the extra 4 stroke weight. As for that, had a resort owner where we go buy new boats/motors this year and he went with 2 strokes because of all the hand work they do with there operation. Said the dealer told him the motor companies are 2 years from coming out with lighter weight 4 strokes.

Good Luck!


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Max out the hp on the boat, get a tach that will show your WOT and find a prop that gets you in the max rpm rating as given by the manufacturer. Stainless prop will give you the best performance that the boat and outboard can provide. New stainless props have a rubber core or a "breakable" hub that can be replaced if you do hit a submerged object. No damage to the prop shaft that way. I always recomend a stainless prop to my customers that have atleast a 75 hp outboard. Smaller engines won't have the ponies behind the prop to make much of a difference.

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I picked up a new 75 Yamaha 4 stroke tiller this year. I dropped it on the back of a lund 17 Angler.

I weigh 265 lbs.

My friend is 375 lbs.

My other friend is 160 lbs.

We had a full tank of gas, 29 gal, and the boat was loaded.

I get on plane within 10 seconds. WOT was @ 35 mph (gps)

Sell the Merc.

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Try this WEB site at Mercury. Just fill in the blanks and get some ideas.


I played with it all winter trying to tune in the ultimate wheight/performance/fuel efficiency configuration. In the end (after having died 1000 deaths) I bought a 2000 ProV with a 90hp Honda 4-stroke tiller because I thought it was a killer deal.

For quicker planing with more wheight you might want to try mounting some planer wings on your motor. I mounted some on my boat last weekend and it made a great improvement getting up on the plane. The flip side is that once it gets to cruising it porpoises more (always something, ain't it?). You may have different results. How much fuel do you really need on any given fishing trip? A gallon of gas wheighs 4 to 5 lbs (I think). Experiment with your motor pushing 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, full tank? If you explore this Mercury WEBsite you may find more information and ideas.

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