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Fine Tuning Your Locator

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Guest

To get the most out of your electronics, try running your graph in manual mode. What i mean by manual mode is getting rid of those silly cartoon fish on your screen. Next if your graph has a zoom try running your unit with a split screen. Or try manually setting the range, most units have a 10-20,20-30 etc for range that will let you fine tune the depth. Say you know your going to be trolling your favorite gravel bar in 22 feet. Fine tune your range to read 23 feet. This way you are gaining pixels which in turn will give you a better chance at marking nice fish arches.When running in zoom you are adding more pixels to your screen by only looking at the lower half of the water. eg.15-25 feet. You eliminate the top half which frees up pixels and watts the will produce better arches... Also note nice define fish arches only occur when your cone moves over stationary fish. When you see vertical lines coming from the bottom on your screen or a long drawn out M those are fish that are moving with the cone that should not be over looked...If you are in the market for a new locator,dont cheat yourself. You get for what you pay for. To many times i am at the boat launch and see a nice new 12,000.00 dollar rig only to see a 100.00 dollar graph..

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Guest

D-MAN your really right on all points; I was one of those guys . I run with the top of the line the last 10yrs and its great; I couldnt afford it all at once so I put it in the lay away plan through the winter months back then and never regreted it. thanks for the fine tuning info

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Pherris

What about setting the sensitivity? I have a LowranceX85 and it seems that if the sensitivity is above 60 % I get a lot of stuff that are not fish showing up?

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Scott

Pherris, does your screen fill up while you are moving or only when you are stationary. I've had this happen if I stop, but never while I am trolling or drifting.

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Guest

D-man--we have the lcx-15mt. just got it and havent tried it on the water yet but sure spend a lot of time playig with it on dry dock. Easy to use ,like the bottomline tournament witch went k-put and parts aren't around for the old girl anymore;any advise before I hit the water this weekend?

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Pherris

Scott,
Yes it does only happen when I am stopped. It will stop when I adjust the sensitivity down to about 52%.

[This message has been edited by Pherris (edited 07-11-2001).]

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Pherris

D-Man.
I only have one depth finder and it is wired directly to the main battery in my boat. Is this a problem? I also have a bow mount for it and when I run it on the bow it is using the same power source as the trolling motor. Same problem. I will try some of the other things you mentioned and let you know. Thanks for your advice.

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Guest

Russ&Judy you made a good investment. I added the 16-Ct this year. You'll be very impressed and happy with that unit..

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Guest

Pherris- I run an x-85 on my bow. I run the sensitivity at max then back it down one. I also run my chart speed at max then back it down one as well this will also add pixels. Make sure your locator has an independent circut,meaning it has its own battery. Are you running more than one locator with the same frequecys? Is your transducer level (extremley important)? Too much up or too much down and you'll get false readings. The best thing to do is to experiment in deep water. You have to remember the x-85 runs on 3,000 watts peak to peak its very sensitive. What you need to look for is to make out fish among the clutter on your scree. mille Lacs hold alot of bait and bugs not to mention perch,tullibe,etc.. Experiment in deepwater were your cone is larger. With a 20 degree cone in twenty feet of water your viewing area is 7 feet. If you mark one fish there are probably more. If you mark more than one fish theres a good chance your on the mother lode. Too many guys are scanning structure and they want to see the screen filled with arches before they start to fish. Not gonna happen. Also make sure your running your greyline at 30-32 percent. The key is to see fish mixed in with your screen clutter. It comes with experience and experiments. And make sure that ducer is mounted level and make sure it works. Pull it off put it to your ear. If it clicks its working......

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Guest

Russ and Judy. I ran into a fella this weekend who has a 15MT. He stated he has had alot of problems with it. He said lowrance has been good about it and has serviced it 3 times getting it back to him within 48 hours each time. Let me know if you have any problems. He also said he has heard the same from other people. Again would like to hear how yours is working........

[This message has been edited by D-man (edited 07-17-2001).]

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Guest

D-man I dont have the gps gadgets yet or the computor hook up wires (thats my xmas present) what can we expect it not to do? power up, fade out, we will keep you posted.

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Guest

From what he stated it was a problem with the LCD in the screen. The liquid itself.

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Bodyman

I recently purchased a boat with a Eagle MagnaII onboard. Is this a solid unit? one that can be fine tuned as your suggesting? Or would an upgrade be worth while. I haven't used it alot yet so I'm not to familiar with it. It does have the fish ID screen (cartoon fish) is that bogus? or is it just less accurate? I also have a vex FL8 I want to mount onboard is this going to conflict with the eagle or vice-a versa? I know the vex is deadly for ice fishing, does it work as well on open water?

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Guest

Bodyman- i dont know what your pixel count or watt rating you have. I tried finding that info but that is an older unit. Generally look for a locator with at least 240 pixels and 1000 watts peak to peak. Turn your cartoon fish to hooks by running the unit in manual mode. Turn the sensitivy up to about 80 percent and run the greyline at 32-35 percent. As far as the flasher and graph interfering that depends on what megahertz the transducer are, if they are the same they will interfer. A flasher is a good tool for locating edges because of its real time display. I run a zercom because of its high watts and its easy to read in direct sunlight. Use a coffee can on your vex do block out the light..

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.

[This message has been edited by D-man (edited 07-23-2001).]

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Pherris

D-man,
What would you say the delay is from what you see on the screen to how far it is behind you on an x-85?

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Guest

In the real time mode its approximately 2.5 seconds. But the picture is distorted. In regular manual and auto mode look for a delay of 4-5 sec depending on depth, location of fish in the cone, speed, sensitvity, zoom setting the delay can go up or down with these settings. Thats why a good flasher helps or a color recorder, both have real time display for finding critical points and edges.

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Bodyman

thanks D-man. the unit's 8 years old and has 100 vertical pixels? and I'm not sure what the watts are. I'll play around with it next time I'm out.. Oh yeah. a coffee can? smile.gif I did get the sun shade for my vex, not to impressed with how it attaches to the machine. rubber bands??

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Guest

It supposed to tie together with tie straps and two rubber bands hook onto the side cut out tabs then the bands go over the knobs. The tabs wear out and the whole cover will fly off either on the lake or in my case many years ago on the highway. I dont drink coffee so iam not sure what the size is. Measure the diameter of the vex and folgers makes the perfect size can. Spray paint it black for looks.

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