• GUESTS

    If You  want access  to member only forums on FM, You will need to Sign-in or  Sign-Up now .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member.

  • WE CREATE LONG TERM, MEANINGFUL RELATIONSHIPS IN HERE ... PLEASE JOIN US.

    You know what we all love...

    RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE
    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

Sign in to follow this  
TUMBLEWEED

Arrow Shaft/Fin Selection??

Recommended Posts

TUMBLEWEED

I am new to the bow game (just got a Nova).
I see there are a ton of different shaft
diameters and fin styles to choose from.
How do I choose?? Anyone have some basic
info to pass on to me??Thanks.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
metrojoe

Try using the Easton shaft selector guide. It's available at the Easton Archery web site. It's really a great tool for learning and understanding why a paricular shaft should be used. If your still not sure you can go to your local pro shop and they will be glad to help you out. Being a feather user I don't have any experience with vanes.

[This message has been edited by metrojoe (edited 08-28-2003).]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BLACKJACK

metrojoe, gave you good advice, go to eastonarchey dot com and/or the local proshop. Basically, it boils down to a formula using your draw length and poundage that you shoot at to select an arrow, and also what kind of bow/cam you shoot. The aluminum arrows get bigger in diameter and bigger in wall thickness, with a lighter arrow shooting faster, and the heavier arrow giving better penetration and durability. I would recommend that you not get too hung up on speed, it gets tougher to tune your bow. Look into the carbons too, the price has really come down on them, they're comparable to aluminum in price. I bought carbons last year for the first time mainly for the durability, if you bounce an aluminum arrow off your archery butt, its shot, where carbons can take some abuse. And it still went right thru a deer last year. If I ever go elk hunting, I'd probably go back to aluminum, just for more weight and kinetic energy and penetration. One more thing, the lighter arrows shoot flatter with less arch, which makes judging distance less critical.

Good luck.

[This message has been edited by BLACKJACK (edited 08-28-2003).]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
korn_fish

TumbleWeed, take Metroes advice and use one of those fancy selector deals. And if you can, go to a dealer that will let you test shoot some different shafts. When I got my carbon Xpress shafts last year, all the charts indicated the 300 shafts. Found out the 400's shot much better with the 125 head. Dropped down to a 100 grain head and the 300 and 400's were about the same. Dropped to a 75 grain head and 300 shafts are better.

If you want to get the most out of your bow, then everything needs to be taken into consideration. Draw weight, # grains in tip, # grains in the insert, # grains in vanes/feathers, # grains in shaft which of course differs with identicle shafts cut at different lengths. You can make it as much of a science as you want, or just build up the basics.

There was a great site that I just found regarding bow tuning tips, about what makes the bow faster, more accurate etc. its www.thebowman.com

Feathers are more forgiving and lighter then vanes, aluminum used to be more forgiving than carbon, verdict still out on if they still are. etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TUMBLEWEED

Thanks for the pointers!! I just stumbled on
to the Easton site. I will have to go in
and be fitted at the bow shop. I got the
bow from a buddy who is upgrading to a
nicer bow. I am able to hit the target
fairly easily now, but want to explore
more into the whole aspect of the sport.
Thanks again......T/W

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Tom Sawyer
      We've been big fans of the 3" minnows, and 5" leeches, along with crawlers, great color combinations, with floating versions ta boot.👍👍     Found the pinched half crawlers to work great for adding spin to "slow death" presentation...
    • redlabguy
      Okay, I’m not into gore. I’ve only had to do surgery on one hook and that’s enough. PSU, I’m wondering how you’re doing. Cliff offered good advice. In the Frazer Bay Area, bobbers are my only means of catching fish of size. I t seems like the dinks are dominating the reefs. Spinners can pick up fish near structure. I was looking back at my logs recently and late July has always been tough.  Dick
    • riverrat21
      Ive been out a few times as well..have tried from the harbor all the way up to boyscout...have been getting a few everytime out but has been slow for me....been trolling crawlers with big colorado blades..have caught fish on flats by barkers,between the bridges,and out from clyde area....got 6 cats accidentally while trolling boards by the community hole south west side of spirit lake...water clarity still sucks in the harbor..a bit better the farther up river u go...has it been kinda slow for everyone?????ive been doing better on fish lake.lol
    • Grainbelt
      And they are big, feels like you have a bass on! We thru them all back.
    • delcecchi
      I haven't done it on all my stuff, but I don't avoid using a bait because I mashed the barbs.   It would probably be a good idea to mash more of them, even if just to make it easier to get them out when they get hooked on something like clothing or a rag.  
    • monstermoose78
    • Wanderer
      Manitoba requires the same, and I agree, we didn’t notice a difference either except for keeping bait on the hook.  It’s just a hard mental block to get around. @LBerquist, ouch!  Unfortunately I know what those are like.  Both getting them out of myself and helping others!  You can pinch the barbs down on any hook though.  Some lay down nice and others will break off, leaving just a little bit of a rough bump which I kind of like better.  There’s a little bit of grip left that way.
    • whateverisbiting
      Thanks for the tip something new to try 🙂
    • LBerquist
      I wish barb less hooks were more available. I'd switch, heard they come out easier....
    • Borch
      The gulp crawlers in packages are tougher than those in the alive container.  The one in the picture is from the alive container.  Both versions work well on spinner and slow death rigs.