Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If You  want access  to member only forums on FM, You will need to Sign-in or  Sign-Up now .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member.

Mora Hand Auger


eyeguy 54

Recommended Posts

  • 'we have more fun' FishingMN Builders

whats the best way to make it work with a drill.  Got a dandy old one for 5 bucks and will use it for tip up northern. 

  • l Love It 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 'we have more fun' FishingMN Builders

is there a long version of this out there?

81Nxmcn6cML._SL1407_.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 'we have more fun' FishingMN Builders

I think I will cut it off just below the handle and figure out how to make it fit a 1/2 inch drill

00000_43H5YUWuuxx_1200x900.jpg

  • Thumbs Up 1
  • l Love It 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh that is an old screw on handle one. Go on e of the bay and a guy makes and sells the adaptor for it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Considering a new Mora is 50 bucks I would do that I'm guessing the blades need to be replaced? They are 30 bucks right there. You probably will want a extension the Clam brand fits and is 15 bucks. Just my opinion but i have been down this road before. The regular Mora is to short and you will have a sore back. The Mora works great as a auger on a drill I have a seven inch and works great I use it for  pike also. I use the Clam plate which helps a lot the 7 and 8 inch will grab more can't remember if you have a Milwaukee or not but the handle twisted off on me with the 8 inch ruined the drill and not worth that . I would really recommend a Clam plate If this auger is 7-8 inch as I twisted my wrist, when I got done I could have bought the most expensive auger out there for what it cost in medical bills. The Mora is a great little auger not trying to be a Debbie downer but many people have been hurt with those bigger augers and just using the drill the Mora's do not always cut through as clean as a Nils or a K-drill when they catch they will hurt. Just my opinion.

  • Thumbs Up 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is what i used to convert my 6" hand Mora to a clam adapter & drill adapter. Section of schedule 80 grey 3/4 grey PVC. ID is same size as your Nills drill adapter and the Mora hand crank handle. Section of 1" thin wall conduit. Couple 5/16 #8 hard bolts & nuts. Cut the handle jist below the bend. You will end up with a 44" bit. Cut the conduit to desired lenght. I used 6". Cut the Schedule 80 PVCto 1" longer than the Conduit. Using a heavy hammer drive the Schedule 80 PVC into the conduit using wood blocks to protect the PVC. Cut off the extra inch of PVC at the conduit. Push the PVC/ Conduit onto the cut Mora shaft. Drill 5/16 through both insert bolt. Mark and drill 5/16 hole to match your adapter depth 1/2 way through the open end of the shaft, insert adapter and align holes. Put 5/16 drill bit through hole and adapter hole. Continue drilling 5/16 hole through shaft this aligns a stright drilled hole. Bolt adapter to shaft.  

I added a point using a 1" wood spade bit welding it to a 3/8 bolt. Drilled and tap a 3/8 hole in auger between blades. I think Eskimo sells a threaded point if you dont want to make one. 

Drilling ice holes with a Mora  standard smooth blade is slow & takes a lot of effort, thats why I modify mine per pic. Big key to cutting success with my chipper & laser knockoffs is to add a .040 shim between the blade screws and blade cutting edge. Give it another 12 deg. cut angle.

If uou need an extension use an 18" or whatever lecght of 1" Conduit but drive 4" t0 6" PVCto each eng of conduit.

If your going to reverse the drill and slush the hole, weld the handle to the nut at the blue auger shaft unless you want your drill at the bottom of the lake. 

Dont know cost as i had the parts laying around except the $5 i paid for the auger ata garagr sale.

Bottom pic - Other augers are configured for my Mako Eskimo gas power head. I retired my 10 incher.

 

20181027_172308.thumb.png.ce8c3ac1aef785740fbbd919c50b65e1.png

20181026_075518.thumb.jpg.df7dba0e5ea26595c28242c0b875fb00.jpg

Edited by papadarv
  • Thumbs Up 1
  • I Like it 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, mrpike1973 said:

Considering a new Mora is 50 bucks I would do that I'm guessing the blades need to be replaced? They are 30 bucks right there. You probably will want a extension the Clam brand fits and is 15 bucks. Just my opinion but i have been down this road before. The regular Mora is to short and you will have a sore back. The Mora works great as a auger on a drill I have a seven inch and works great I use it for  pike also. I use the Clam plate which helps a lot the 7 and 8 inch will grab more can't remember if you have a Milwaukee or not but the handle twisted off on me with the 8 inch ruined the drill and not worth that . I would really recommend a Clam plate If this auger is 7-8 inch as I twisted my wrist, when I got done I could have bought the most expensive auger out there for what it cost in medical bills. The Mora is a great little auger not trying to be a Debbie downer but many people have been hurt with those bigger augers and just using the drill the Mora's do not always cut through as clean as a Nils or a K-drill when they catch they will hurt. Just my opinion.

Pricing for new is as you stated but there are hundreds of the Mora hand augers with old hard steel blades in attics and garages that with a bit of imagineering and effort to bring to a modern state. 

My latest I got 2 for $15.00. Cut the auger flights off 1 and welded the shaft to the better one making it a 5 foot auger bit for comfort drilling in my wheel house wheels up. Added a collar for power head reciever (gas or cordless wth adapter & ION quick release. Than modified the blade as per above post and photo. They drill ice at 1" per second (32" in 28 seconds) with little to no effort. Pic of auger on my Mud Mxer with quick release. Also direct to Mud Mixer no chuck so no chance of auger going down the drilled hole when the chuck comes loose. 8 in plate or floats on shaft not required.

20181003_201044.thumb.jpg.e5785b7248cbfc7bf54d6730cb79ca9f.jpg

20181003_201729.thumb.jpg.2397be2ffd236b70b733b72aad309db1.jpg

  • Thumbs Up 1
  • I Like it 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, mrpike1973 said:

I like the bungee idea on the blade ?!

Bungee idea came from Eskimo which has a slightly different design Bungee on the retired 10 incher that came with M43 Mako a few years back. Why run to Gander to buy new when old recycle is just as, if not better, than new.?

  • Thumbs Up 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Rick G said:

I can weld a half inch shaft to wherever you decide to cut it off if you would like

@eyeguy 54 the id of the Mora crank shaft is .540. Have @Rick G wrap a .020 sleve around the 1/2" shaft to keep it tight & stright when he welds it. While he is at it have him weld the handle shaft where its screwed onto the auger. Only drawback is adding an extension if needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 'we have more fun' FishingMN Builders

pic is not from the one I got. its welded where they meet. Thx for the ideas. wont use it if ice to thick. they id looks to be 17/32. is that .540 or .5312?

 

  • Thumbs Up 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, eyeguy 54 said:

pic is not from the one I got. its welded where they meet. Thx for the ideas. wont use it if ice to thick. they id looks to be 17/32. is that .540 or .5312?

 

Correct id is 17/32. Finding a 17/32 steel shaft is difficult to find and costly. You will need to go to someone that sells  DOM steel. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

You do good work that's for sure PD. I'm wondering though,  I modified an old mora hand auger a couple of years ago to a drill which works well but still has shaver blades on it. Did it take much to switch over to chipper blades? These have shims under them which I suppose it's getting out drilling and perhaps trying with or without the shims to find the right angle..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, bobberineyes said:

You do good work that's for sure PD. I'm wondering though,  I modified an old mora hand auger a couple of years ago to a drill which works well but still has shaver blades on it. Did it take much to switch over to chipper blades? These have shims under them which I suppose it's getting out drilling and perhaps trying with or without the shims to find the right angle..

If you look at his pictures above.  He took the shaver blades and ground teeth into them  to make more of chipper blades. 

 

image.png.9a2b74b857c6a31eab7ba154e813d3c4.png

Edited by leech~~
Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, leech~~ said:

If you look at his pictures above.  He took the shaver blades and ground teeth into them  to make more of chipper blades. 

 

image.png.9a2b74b857c6a31eab7ba154e813d3c4.png

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, bobberineyes said:

You into the sauce again Leech?

 

Huum? 

You:  I modified an old mora hand auger a couple of years ago to a drill which works well but still has shaver blades on it. Did it take much to switch over to chipper blades?

Me: If you look at his pictures above.  He took the shaver blades and ground teeth into them  to make more of chipper blades. 

He didn't switch to chipper blades. He made his own out of shaver blades.   Or am I missing your question?  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wasn't asking you anything leech, it was for papadarv. He talks about it in another thread running smooth vs chipper blades ( you should look it up). So my question to him was basically how much tinkering did it take to get the right angle and shims to work is all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, bobberineyes said:

I wasn't asking you anything leech, it was for papadarv. He talks about it in another thread running smooth vs chipper blades ( you should look it up). So my question to him was basically how much tinkering did it take to get the right angle and shims to work is all.

 

Most of the "Drill" Augers are designed around the age old Sweedish Mora Hand augers. The blue shafft/tube that holds the flights and drill head have a .875 ID and the OD of the Hand Crank shaft is .750 same size as the Clam Plate and many other drill driven adapters. Almost all gas power heads fit .875 (7/8") auger shafts.

 

I buy Mora hand augers from Another Man's Treasure, garage sales, Flea Markets. $15.00 max I pay. I get lots for $5 to $10. The beat up augers l cut the flights and heads off the shaft and weld the shaft to good augers to extend auger length.

 

I believe the K-Drill is the best built, best design, most durable so I imulamulated that blade and center point. I made a very agressive (large cut-outs) between 4 cutting lands and smaller cuts between 5 cutting lands. Than I calculated the K-Drill blade  cut angle adding .040 shims to the leading Mora blade edge. I cut the blade groves using an Angle Grinder with 1/4" grinding wheel. Grind very slow as the grinding wheels cut very fast.

Turns out the agressive 8.5" blades are too agressive and stop my Milwaukee 2804 drill if pressure is applied while drilling. I use it on my Mako gas auger. The less aggressive blade cuts about 1/4" of ice per revelation.

I bought a K-drill at the Blane Hard Water Expo, it's less than 1/2 the weight of my Mora setup, retiring my Mora Augers

20181005_094232.thumb.jpg.43452f16dee03e2da9d85319de335036.jpg

Very agessice blades

 

20210101_105914.thumb.jpg.a1350247ead1d645dd096281569090ab.jpg

The black pieces behind the cutting are cupped to threw the slush away from the hole.

 

20201026_093619.jpg.42d379b87f5305b826a82b6c58064681.jpg

drilled ice 1/4"+ cut per rev

 

20171202_131839.thumb.jpg.b002566eca604976aaae6bb806a2a2d5.jpg

correct blade cut angle

 

20181124_142821.thumb.jpg.b50eb4e3b6c7388d4ac5b6055addf0e8.jpg

the center point that works very well

 

20211120_095744.thumb.jpg.bd41760cee25e6baf51b1fbe4c353dd6.jpg

My K-Drill set up with the Ion Quick Release

20181003_201044.jpg

  • Thumbs Up 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, bobberineyes said:

I wasn't asking you anything leech, it was for papadarv. He talks about it in another thread running smooth vs chipper blades ( you should look it up). So my question to him was basically how much tinkering did it take to get the right angle and shims to work is all.

Oop!  Sorry for trying to help. 😳

  • l Love It 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, leech~~ said:

Oop!  Sorry for trying to help. 😳

Thanks leech you were right on for my Mora Augers

  • Thumbs Up 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for replying pd. I was just trying to get more life out blades, going on a year 2 with the shaver blades but my old gasser with chipper never been sharpen.  I too have the blue mora which a buddy from Zeigler machined a couple pcs to make it work, but it won't have a center piece if I had chipper blades. Maybe I'm better off leaving the shaver blades on and just replace or try to sharpen. 

  • Thumbs Up 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, bobberineyes said:

Thanks for replying pd. I was just trying to get more life out blades, going on a year 2 with the shaver blades but my old gasser with chipper never been sharpen.  I too have the blue mora which a buddy from Zeigler machined a couple pcs to make it work, but it won't have a center piece if I had chipper blades. Maybe I'm better off leaving the shaver blades on and just replace or try to sharpen. 

Well you could.........oh never mind. 😆

  • Thumbs Up 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, bobberineyes said:

Thanks for replying pd. I was just trying to get more life out blades, going on a year 2 with the shaver blades but my old gasser with chipper never been sharpen.  I too have the blue mora which a buddy from Zeigler machined a couple pcs to make it work, but it won't have a center piece if I had chipper blades. Maybe I'm better off leaving the shaver blades on and just replace or try to sharpen. 

Eskimo blades fit the Mora blue augers. They sell for about $20

Edited by papadarv
  • Thumbs Up 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, bobberineyes said:

Thanks for replying pd. I was just trying to get more life out blades, going on a year 2 with the shaver blades but my old gasser with chipper never been sharpen.  I too have the blue mora which a buddy from Zeigler machined a couple pcs to make it work, but it won't have a center piece if I had chipper blades. Maybe I'm better off leaving the shaver blades on and just replace or try to sharpen. 

All of my augers Mora, Eskimo Ion etc, have a center point as they all drift/slide without. I make them using  3/4" or 1" flat spade wood drill bit and a 3/8" bolt with head cut off and slot to weld the spade point to the bolt. I drill and tap the existing hole in the auger to 3/8. I use my Dremel tool to put the final edge on the point. My chipper blades last twice as long as the smooth blade and much easier to Sharpen. 

Screenshot_20211201-104628_Word.thumb.jpg.7f4efe7f01d6ce3a04d28b0bb01c0442.jpg

  • Thumbs Up 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Wanderer
      I was surprised too.  I’ve assumed anyway the large milky white sack instead of roe was an indicator.  Like when you clean perch the males and females are obvious.  Some of the 15 inch walleyes had some roe in them.
    • Wanderer
      Well I’ve been wasting more time that lately!  Sorry for wasting your time then to read it.     A little agitated this evening?
    • JerkinLips
      I bet a much larger % of fish kept over 26" end up on the table rather than the wall.  I would personally like to see the upper slot changed to 28".   25" male walleye?  I didn't know the males got that large.  Guess I will have to check their gender from now on just for information.   The picture I posted was a picture of a picture developed from a negative 9 years ago.  Reason for the poor photo quality.
    • knoppers
      not much happening on the lake this winter the slush is that bad. only ones out have walked pulling portables. snowmobile is the only travel, and that gets a bit iffy in some areas, no stopping, and plenty of horsepower to get through some areas.
    • leech~~
      So pretty much your time spent typing this was a total waste!  Thanks. 👍
    • smurfy
      so as i understand it a smaller female lays less eggs then that 26 incher with maybe a better hatch rate but the 26 incher may lay MORE eggs with better genetics????🤔 but what do i know..... 
    • Wanderer
      I can’t personally answer that but I’m pretty sure 26-30 inch females do quite a bit of spawning.  The over 26 allowance is for keeping anglers happy about being able to keep a “trophy” at some point, knowing that harvest is likely minimal.   I agree the table fare quality decreases with every inch past about 24.  I prefer the under 20 walleyes for eating but occasionally keep one up to 24.   Over New Years weekend my wife caught a 25 that she wanted to keep.  Her fish, her choice.  It was a little thin and very old looking.  It was a male; a big male IMO.  She thought it was good when we ate it but I thought it was soft and watery.  To each their own on that I guess.   Just my 2 cents.   Nice one you have there in your pic!
    • JerkinLips
      Do female walleyes stop spawning at a certain age/size?  I am wondering if the 26" upper slot limit was picked to allow people to mount a "trophy", or keep a very large walleye for consumption.   I have never had a fish mounted, and would probably consider having a replica made if I catch a walleye over 31".  I have only kept one walleye over 26" (a 28" fish caught in 2013 winter that would not have survived if released), and that fish was not very good to eat.  Maybe it was at the end of its life.
    • Wanderer
      My worst was on Burntside in Ely.  Breaking trail across the lake, overloaded, big deep slush field.  Took half the day for three of us to get out of it.  Water deep enough everyone’s boots were soaked except my tall insulated rubber boots.   Sleds froze up and had to chisel out the tunnels to move again.  One person in the party became ill and didn’t go out the second day.  Thought it was because he got so chilled.  He went to the Dr after the trip and found out he actually had a heart condition.  Could’ve lost him that day.  That’s my big reason I won’t expect anyone to help beyond what they’re comfortable with.  Some friends are still gung ho but others will say no.  I’m fine either way.  I’ve got enough equipment and enough experience now that I’ll figure it out - if I’m willing to.  Yesterday in that wind and alone; not so much.
    • monstermoose78
      Fished Mille Lacs on the gravel in 23-26 feet and we seen a few but no takers. No fish over night or this morning. 
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.