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mrpike1973

Auger Help

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mrpike1973

I'm thinking of getting the 6 inch orange nils auger does anyone know the length from the plate to the tip of the bit? I cannot find the spec anywhere. I have the K drill but I have went threw 3 sets of blades in one winter and burned one milwaukee drill up already. I've seen the Nils and it is way faster than the K drill. Would I still need the clam plate? I'm ready to pull the trigger but hesitant on the blade holding up on the Nils spendy replacement. Thanks for your input.

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monstermoose78

@Surface Tension @eyeguy 54 

 

The shaver style augers are easier on drills. The blades last a lot longer as well. But the two guys I tag will give great info. I have seen eyeguys nils cut and it’s fast now that he up graded drills. Surface tension sharpens nilsblades and is the go to guy for information on the in my opinion.

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Jim Almquist

I wonder just how many holes you cut before dulling your blades. Are you always fishing dirty ice ?  The Nils will be way easier on your drill but if you are on dirty ice it will dull just as fast or even faster. If you go the Nils route make sure to have an extra blade so you can send it in and still ice fish. Frank ( Surface Tension ) is quick with his turn around time but has his real busy moments as well and you would hate to miss a weekend.

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Rick G

Mr Pike, if you are going through blades that fast on the k-drill, you will certainly dull them out just as fast or faster on a Nils.

The Ripper style blades that come on the K are about as good as it gets as far as durability goes. 

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mrpike1973

From what I'm hearing I believe I will just keep my K-Drill. I have no doubts whatsoever that Nils is a great product and Frank does awesome work on the blades. Many of my friends have used his services before. I drill a lot and almost always on dirty wind swept ice last year was terrible on the lakes I was on. 2 sets of blades for me last year first set got dull around January then replaced to the second set at the end of the year. I did call K Drill today they said that's normal for the usage I do. No cause for alarm at all. So I'm always looking for the grass is greener on the other side type person. No hurt feelings here fellas both are good augers and I will not say bad things about them just thought I was missing the boat but as someone said does it really matter if you get the hole drilled 2 seconds faster? It matters how many fish you pull up that hole😁

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papadarv

I went a different route, got several vintage Mora 7 1/2" hand augers $10 to $15 each with the old hardened sweedish steel blades modified to replicate K-drill style blades #5. Went with clam plate 3/4" drive bit & M18 Fuel Mud Mixer worked ok on early ice #1. Wanted to try my DeWalt/Jiffy so converted to the 7/8" drive bit, didn't have the power to cut the agressive blade #2. Later ice in Wheelhouse, went with my Eskimo 43cc with a Walker 25' flex exhaust out the door, cut 32" ice in 27 seconds #3. Ran 4 1/2 holes to 1 of my buddies new green ION 8in. Made some adapters to put the 7/8" auger bits on my Clam Plate and Mud Mixer#4 for early ice this comming season.

Screenshot_20180819-081949.thumb.png.80bf3ca72b436672582754ad5540514d.png

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leech~~
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, papadarv said:

I went a different route, got several vintage Mora 7 1/2" hand augers $10 to $15 each with the old hardened sweedish steel blades modified to replicate K-drill style blades #5. Went with clam plate 3/4" drive bit & M18 Fuel Mud Mixer worked ok on early ice #1. Wanted to try my DeWalt/Jiffy so converted to the 7/8" drive bit, didn't have the power to cut the agressive blade #2. Later ice in Wheelhouse, went with my Eskimo 43cc with a Walker 25' flex exhaust out the door, cut 32" ice in 27 seconds #3. Ran 4 1/2 holes to 1 of my buddies new green ION 8in. Made some adapters to put the 7/8" auger bits on my Clam Plate and Mud Mixer#4 for early ice this comming season.

Screenshot_20180819-081949.thumb.png.80bf3ca72b436672582754ad5540514d.png

 

That is some sweet work right there. I see these at garage sales all summer, may be I should start picking them up?  Looks like you added a drill point on the end of them as well. The adapters and the end point are key items on making these right.

Edited by leech~~
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papadarv

Made the drill point out of a spade drill bit welded to a 3/8” 16 bolt/screw than cut & ground to shape the point. Drilled & tapped center of blade bracket. Tap slowly as that steel seem a grade or two above basic mild steel.

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leech~~
27 minutes ago, papadarv said:

Made the drill point out of a spade drill bit welded to a 3/8” 16 bolt/screw than cut & ground to shape the point. Drilled & tapped center of blade bracket. Tap slowly as that steel seem a grade or two above basic mild steel.

 

I like your blade work as well. Two summers ago when I sold my hand auger at my garage I think I throw out about 4 sets of those old blades as well!  😣

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papadarv
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, leech~~ said:

 

I like your blade work as well. Two summers ago when I sold my hand auger at my garage I think I throw out about 4 sets of those old blades as well!  😣

Keys to make the blade work well. *Sharp! *Cutting edge needs to line up to the Gullet of the opposite blade! *Add a .020 shim 1/8" wide between blade screw and cutting edge. Increases cut angle to same as K-Drill! I'm working on another set welding  1/4" piece of blade to the outside blade edge extending the blade 1/2" past auger flight making it a full 8" hole. Note how the K-drill blade extends 1/2" past the auger flights.

 

20180819_134836.thumb.png.34fcd0652c06c594c78d8942a645046b.png

Edited by papadarv
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