Amsoil oil

[Duckman8]

What mixture do you mix this at. The container says that you mix for everything at 100:1, but my auger takes 24:1. What do you do? Help! Do you try and break it down? There is no chart on the bottle. Any ifo is appreciated.

[tightlines]

Hey Duckman:
The 100-1 mixture is correct. I have been using the amsoil 100-1 mixture in all my small 2 stroke yard equipment for years and I think it's great stuff. Less smoke, easier start-ups and great lub protection. I switched my new strikemaster 2hp after one tank of 24-1 and could tell the difference immediately. Engine is less noisy, less smoke and it starts easier.

[Knotwood]

Most machines run better with the leaner oil mixtures. We used to get a lot of machines at our shop due to stuck rings from using too much oil. Keep your fuel fresh, too. We'd get sometimes twenty calls a day on "what's my oil mix?"... use the better oils at fifty (petroleum) or 100 (synth.) to one if possible, but stay with one brand if possible to keep it from build-up inside the combustion chamber. Some burn and leave deposits, then another cleans 'em off. Carbon fouling can occur- it's when a small chunk lodges between the spark plug electrodes and shuts off the engine. Pull the plug, knock out the chunk, and your good to go again.

[Duckman8]

Thanks for the great info. I have a new strikemaster and it sounds like amsoil is the product for me. I will have to switch to this for everything around the home. Thanks guys!

[EBass]

Where can one get this Amsoil?

[Gissert]

I've seen it at Fleet Farm

[Crossin' Eyes]

Hey Ebass,
You can go to their website and have it delivered to your house is you want. If you're a MN resident you'll have to pay shipping but no tax.

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Good Fishin!
Crossin

[ChuckN]

I buy all my AMSOIL at Fleet Farm. It's practically the same price as the manufacturer's oil, but way better in my opinion. That's pretty much all I use now in my 2 stroke engines.

[iffwalleyes]

Just a question what happens to your manufaturer's warrenty when you run this stuff? Doesn't it void the warrenty?

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Grip it and Rip it

IFFWalleyes
I Fish For Walleyes
[email protected]

[Ron Vroom]

Some years ago I had my 10HP Volvo outboard seize up after using Amsoil at the recommmended ratio. That was an expensive learning experience so I remain leery about additives and new "miracle" products. A couple weeks ago my friends auger would not start and it was obvious there was no fuel flowing. He had put in an additive (not Amsoil) to lean the oil mixture. When he took it into the shop, they told him the tank was plugged with something. They dumped the gas, put in fresh and 24-1 oil, and it started right up. I will stick to the tried and true and the mfg's recommendations.

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RonBunyan

[ChuckN]

I would follow the manufacturer recommendations through break-in of any motor. You can switch to Amsoil anytime. My 2-stroke engines run 100% better with this oil, no more fouling plugs and loaded up engines.

I believe this stuff exceeds any manufacturer recommendations for oil requirements, so how can it void the warranty?

[metro 1]

simple, Outboard motors run 50:1 Augers at 24:1 you are mixing it at 100:1 Bingo warranty void! .I like the synthetic oil also but I wouldn't take a chance at 100:1 until the warranty is up and realize the risk for doing so.metro

[This message has been edited by metro 1 (edited 02-04-2004).]

[iffwalleyes]

I would void the warrenty because the oil is not mixed to manufactures specifications. If they recommend 24:1 that is what it should be. 100:1 that is way lean for my liking. You bring that into a motor shop and try to get them to warrenty it with a scored cylinder. Good Luck they can tell if it was mixed properly. If it exceded manufactures recommendations they would have it in the owners manual it would say mix oil at 24:1 or Amsoil at 100:1 but I don't see that in my new Jiffy owners manual I bought. I not saying that it isn't good oil but if I want it to last I am going to do things by the book. If I want a lean out mix I would stick with 32:1 ratio that is pretty safe.

Right off of Jiffys Web Page under FAQ notice the second question and it's answer using sythetic oil WILL VOID WARRENTY

What is the correct mixture of oil and gasoline to use for fuel in a Jiffy?
The correct ratio for all Jiffy Power Ice Drills is 24 to 1. This means 5.3 OZ of Jiffy two-cycle oil is mixed with 1 GAL. of fresh gasoline. This information is also contained in the Jiffy owner's manual, the Tecumseh engine manual, and on the Jiffy fuel tank. We recommend that a Jiffy owner purchase a one-gallon gas can and use it only for their Jiffy Power Ice Drill.

What kind of oil should be used to make a Jiffy fuel mixture?
Use only quality two-cycle oil to mix with clean fresh gasoline for fuel. A quality two-cycle snowmobile oil works well. Do NOT use synthetic oils of any kind, they will void the warranty.

Can motor oil or four-cycle oil be used for the fuel mix?
NO! Never!

Can regular unleaded gas be used for the fuel mix?
Yes, it is the gasoline type recommended for use by the engine manufacturer.

Can an outboard motor fuel mixture or a chain saw fuel mixture be used for a Jiffy Power Ice Drill?
ONLY if the mixture is 24:1. We strongly recommend having a separate container specifically for your Jiffy, with the fuel mixed at a 24:1 ratio. It's a good idea to put a tag on the fuel can with the mixture ratio it contains to avoid using the wrong fuel.

Is it ok to leave fuel in a Jiffy Power Ice Drill during the summer months?
Yes, when using Jiffy 2 Cycle Smokeless Oil with Fuel Stabilizer. That way, some protection is present if fuel is left in the tank longer than planned. If regular 2 cycle oil is used, the proper storage procedure is thoroughly described in the owner's manual.

So there you have it from some of the manufaturers. I looked at Stikemasters Web page and they more or less say them same thing stick with manufacturer recommendations.

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Grip it and Rip it

IFFWalleyes
I Fish For Walleyes
[email protected]

[This message has been edited by iffwalleyes (edited 02-04-2004).]

[cloudfisher]

Chuck,
Using another manufacturer's product limits the control Tecumseh, B&S, etc., has over their products. They may not have tested different brands like Amsoil in their machines. Manufac's. sometimes don't know how these products will react in thier products. Having said this, it's also a way to add extended sales with their name on them.

[Gissert]

Warranty issues can be a sticky subject with dealers and manufacturers.

There is fedral law (Magnusson Moss Act, I believe) that offers some protection for consumers. In most cases, if the lube meets the spec stated in the manual, warranty should be covered, as long as the mix ratio was as specified in the manual. Most small engine manufacturers will honor warranty in these cases.

I personally run snomobile oil in my Strikemaster at a 32:1 ratio, and have never had troubles in the five years I have had the auger.

Amsoil is wonderful stuff, but I just cringe at the thought of running at 100:1 ratios in small two stroke motors. If a motor is jetted on the lean side, coupled with a really cold day, there is a real chance of the piston meeting Mr. Squeaky.

[ChuckN]

Gissert is right. I believe that act also states A manufacturer CANNOT require you to use only their brand lubricants. If you use a lube that meets or exceeds the requirements, manufacturers cannot void the warranty.

Amsoil has put every engine to the test, just like all companies should, and when used properly (correct ratios) the lube is not likely going to be the cause of the problem.

[metro 1]

The Magnusson-Moss Warranty - Federal Trade commission Improvement Act of 1975. Under the Magnusson-Moss Act, aftermarket equipment that improves performance does not void a vehicle manufacturer’s original warranty, unless the warranty clearly states the addition of such aftermarket equipment automatically voids your vehicles warranty or that the aftermarket device is the direct cause of the failure. The easiest way to check this is to look in your owner’s manual under, "what is not covered".

I do not think there is a manufactor that recommends synthetic oil.They have a tendency to stay with what works. Remember the oil additive that use to drain the oil out of a running motor and it stayed running ..they don't recommend that either. metro

[Surface Tension]

To satisfy your warranty you can use any oil as long as it NMMA classified and is mixed at 24:1

Amzoil isn't certified for any of the NMMA TC-W3, API TC, or JASO FC standards but say they're comparable to them.
Amzoil also recommends 50:1 not 100:1

[Steve Foss]

A note: my Strikemaster manual (XL-3000, eight years old), says that NMMA oils can be mixed at 32:1 for my auger, and that's what I do.

I don't know how long most auger warranties last, never having owned a new one, but I'd not hesitate to switch to Amsoil. A former father-in-law was an Amsoil rep, and he educated me up one way and down the other on the advantages of synthetic oils.

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"Worry less, fish more."
Steve Foss
[email protected]

[river-rat4]

Surface Tension-

What do you run? Do you trust/use Amsoil?
What ratio/auger?

[Duckman8]

stfcatfish - Do you use amsoil then and what mixture do you mix it at? Here is another question for everyone. Use amsoil or not? Mix it 24:1, 32:1, 50:1, or 100:1? What is everyones opinion on this?

[SuddenlySummer]

How about gear oil for your lower unit? Is Amsoil lube any good?

[Surface Tension]

I have a 8" StrikmasterMaster Mag III thats 15 years old. Starts on 2 pulls.
I mix 24:1 Super Tech oil from Wally World and unoxy gas. In the off season I use a stabilizer and start the auger once a month. This ensures the cylinder walls, crank and bearings get a fresh coat of oil during storage.
Auger has original Chipper blades that I resharpen.

If I switched to a syn-oil I'd follow their recommendations and mix 50:1. I for sure would either run the engine in the off season as I do now or throughly fog the engine through the carb with engine running and then pull the plug and fog through there also. Reason why is because I believe a syn-oil at 50:1 doesn't leave enough film to protect parts from moisture during storage.

[river-rat4]

Surface Tension-

Thank you.

I thought I heard that syn does not coat in the off season like mineral(here say?), needle bearings(some instances), and the like pitting from rust.

I also believe in fogging, and running the gas out of the engine, usually not using a stabilizer, seems like the gas looses some of its -ooompf.

[Steve Foss]

Duckman:

I don't use Amsoil because I'm on a pretty tough budget and I don't generally drill lots of holes each year.

I fill my 2-gallon gas can each November and usually end up dumping what's left into my pickup's tank come March.

I do a lot of fishing, but don't do a ton of moving around, because I'm either on foot (and generally using a hand auger then) or I know the spot I'm on and don't have to drill too many holes.

All that being said, since I don't drill that many holes, I don't see spending the extra $ on synthetic.

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"Worry less, fish more."
Steve Foss
[email protected]

[magicstix]

i personally don't use it, but i have a bunch of snowmomobile racers that do and swear by it, but there situation is different, there after optimun perf., they jet down to a .60 BSFC or as close as they can get, more advanced ign. timing, etc. and if they burn down they try to find out why firstand put a new motor in. i would run what ever the manuf. says through warranty period and then change to what you are comfortable with, myself either 40 or 50 :1. i'm still leary of 100:1 even though i have lots of people run it. brokedown time stinks. what is more important is how you store over the off months. i have become a firm believer in this method , i still put stabilizer in but because if there is any gas left in areas that you can't get out. i fog engine ,then drain out all gas from tank and carbs if you can. i still have my carbs cleaned every 3 yrs. unless i notice it acting up before then. our now days gas is very poor now and will sometimes seperate or breakdown during storage, if curions look in your tank next fall or pour some into a glass container and let sit on shelf for 6 mos. then look at it. i think most engines burndown due more to dirty carbs then wrong oil ratio. oil ratings yes look for tcw-3 and the nmma rating. enough said

[trollingforeyes]

Gentlemen: Right from the Amzoil catalog..Quote---The synthetic 2-cycle injector oil and the synthetic 2-cycle 100:1 premix have the following rating. API TC/NMMA TCW2,TCW3/ JASO FC. End of quote.
I use it in all of my 2 cycles and all people that I have sold the oil to love it. In my chain saw and auger I use a mix of 50:1. by my own personal choice. It can go to 100:1 as per Amzoil recomendations or for use in high performance/severe applications Amzoil states that you can use the premix to 50:1 or lower, because it burns so complete with no fouling there are no issues. With the chainsaw and auger, I let them warm up for about a minute befor giving them full throttle, just to let the powerhead warm up. In the real cold wether that we have experienced this helps the manufacturing/machine tolerances equalize.It will also help the 3 hp powerheads perform better when cutting holes. You have to realize, that with a auger it is a sever motor application (gets started and within seconds usually given full throttle and by the time it cuts 2-4 holes finally reached its normal operating temp just to be shut down).

[This message has been edited by trollingforeyes (edited 02-05-2004).]

[radke22]

I run amsoil in my truck, boat, and auger. I know its spendy but look at it this way. My first experience with amsoil was when i had my bonneville. it got 16 mpg and ran over 200 degrees(supercharged) after swithching to amsoil i got 20mpg and it ran under 180! know i use it in everythig, and vehichle wise you can go 25,000 or one year between oil changes!

[Surface Tension]

The 50:1 mix is what I've found from Amzoil also for "Severe Duty".

I have searched more then once to find any Amzoil 2 cycle oil certified at any rating. You will find wording like "It is recommended for API TC, JASO FC, and ISO-EGD applications"
but they aren't certified. That isn't saying Amzoil isn't a good product.
Either they don't meet the specs or Amzoil doesn't want to flip the bill to have them tested is the way I look at it. Will using Amzoil void your warranty? I don't know, I would ask the manufacturer before using it. I do see a problem when 24:1 is subsituted for 100:1

[Knotwood]

Oil mixtures are always a source of differing opinions. I was trying to talk to the owner of Amsoil in our parking lot about a week ago about "break-in" oils. It is obvious he does not like any petroleum product, and stated vigorously about how all the oil companies all make inferior lubricants, and how much profit they can and do make regardless of the quality of their products, went on for at least ten minutes about the cost of certain additives and purity they employ in their oils. He said the only time not to use their product for break-in was for a diesel, which when used in a large vehicle will take 70k miles to fully break in. I remember fifteen years ago, a mechanic he had testing various oil ratios was buying Husqvarna pistons on a regular (almost weekly) basis for about six months, they were trying to see what their oils would protect against seizure- some went at ratios over 250:1.

Almost all major engine manufacturers have developed oils that are supposed to work better than others in their own engines, and the truck drivers always told me they came from the same plant, our tech reps said that was true, but not necessarily the same additives in each oil. Most of the name brand oils have built in reserve ratios that can sometimes allow engines to run satisfactorily at twice the recommended ratio.

What if the old book says use a 16:1 ratio? Do you mix your ratio at that? Look at the improvements that have occured in the last fifteen to twenty years in engines. I work on these things every day, and I still see LOTS of room for improvement, but the oils and the tolerances have improved. High shock loads MAY be cushioned by a thicker layer/amount of oil, but that's not what generally causes these to seize up. It is possible to seize from not allowing all the engine components to heat up gradually, then applying the loads the engine is designed for. We on this side of the pond are a bunch of animals that often beat up our machinery instead of really taking care of them, so any manufacturer has to contend with a wide variety of use and abuse.

In our shop, before the fifty to one oils came out, we used to get 80% of the seized engines from wrong/too rich mixes, more than the guys who forgot to put in oil entirely, the others were from running lean, case or seal leaks, plugged carbs, and the like.

Almost all difficulty with running engines is from old gas now, with storage for prolonged periods a big culprit.

Stay with a good name brand oil, use what you can in thirty days and during extended storage empty out the gas and run dry, fog if possible, or refresh the fuel each month and run until operating temperature is reached. Stabilizers help slow the deterioration, but do not eliminate it.

[Steve Foss]

Trollingforeyes and Knotwood:

OK, can a motor that's been run on conventional petroleum oils be switched over to synthetic at any time in its life, or only early in its life?

Got a rebuilt V8 in my Silverado with about 40,000 on it. Got an Isuzu Rodeo with 110,000 on original V6. Any problems there? How about the auger and chain saw? Auger's eight years old, chainsaw is 25. Got a 25-year old Johnson 35 hp outdboard too.

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"Worry less, fish more."
Steve Foss
[email protected]