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Deer Shack


MJBaldwin

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Have a few quick questions for you guys. I stay at my buddies shack about 15'wX20'L give or take. home made one section was made then another. My question come to two different things. We have a wood fireplace in there as well as a ventless heater. mounted on opposite sides the problem comes at night when we have the fire cranked up before bed but then the heater kicks on too since we turn that up before we go to bed so once the wood runs out we had the propane heater to heat the shack. I’m wondering how we can get this heater not to kick on. We have no electricity there so I’m wondering how to maybe move the thermostat on the heater?? Just not sure and looking for ideas.

Also we have some cheap wood paneling that bows out because by buddies got insulation for a 2x6 wall and these are 2x4 walls. not a big deals helps with heating but the panels we have are really flimsy so they are bowed. I am thinking of ripping it all out and throwing some drywall up. Is there a certain thickness or kind I should get? I was thinking just the 1/2" cheap stuff at the big box stores where its 2 sheets for like 6 bucks.

Any information would be great! Thanks guys~!

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Stay away from drywall, it will only crack and blister over time if the structure is not heated all the time...find some chipboard, plywood or maybe even some exterior grade 4 by 8 siding that has more thickness than what you currently have...

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Actually 6" insulation in a 4" wall doesnt insulate better. The air in the insulation is a big part of the r value. By compressing it you actually lose insulating properties. I would take the paneling down and put a 2x2 on each 2x4 and re panel it

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After you insulate properly, I would throw out the wood stove and get a good second LP heater that has a self generating wall mounted thermostat. Every shack I have ever been in with a wood heater is a problem with maintaining comfortable temps during the evening. Also very dangerous. There is always the one guy who wants to get up during the middle of the night and put another log on the fire. Burned our first shack to the ground back in 1976. Luckily nobody died.

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Thanks for the information guys. I will plan to stay away from the sheetrock and plan to use a chipboard or OSB for this application. I was thinking of reusing the paneling that we have there but its just doesnt look right lets just say a everyone was in a hurry when we put it in and doesnt look good many holes everywhere.

Next thing if you dont mind answering how does paint look on the osb? Would I just use painters caulk or some drywall mud to fill in any gaps or what? Also can I use a nail gun to put this stuff up or would I be better off with some sheetrock screws?

Your help/insight/experiance is greatly appreciated

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You should have no need at all for propane with a properly installed and operated woodstove. You need to have a damper, I have a double damper on my barrel stove and it burns 10 hrs.+, and heats my 25x25 cabin perfectly. Also you need to use hardwood at night, oak, maple or elm. Large logs of popple or birch will work too if hardwood is not available. The damper or double damper is really key. Also stay AWAY from sheetrock, mice will eat it up too!

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TRZ, Thanks for the insight on the topic. We dont have an actual wood stove its an old fire place that was taken out of an old trailer that my buddies grandfather got. We use it mainly for when we are relaxing around the shack. The propane wall mount heater we use for at night. I wish it was a goot old pot belly stove or something like that but its not so we use the propane one. I am thinking of moving this closer to the fireplace in order for that thermostat to trigger that its hot in there. I think this will help but not sure how those thermoststs work on the ventless heaters.

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A barrel stove is very economical, they can be made for under 50$ with a kit from Menards and will last a LONG time. A couple guys can cut wood for 2 hrs. and have enough wood for hunting season. I could never figure out why guys heated hunting shacks with propane, usually they are just ignorant of how easy it is to use wood. I have introduced a few guys to the idea and they love it.

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Thanks for the info guys, wondering if 1/4" waferboard would work for the walls and ceiling? I am trying to do cheap here but also last awhile (i know thats not always possible). Also wondering if anyone has used bultrite? I was looking online at this as its a little cheaper but dont think it would really work for my application as an exposed wall looked like it goes behind the sheetrock.

Also thinking of mounting propane lanterns in there. would you route the copper behind the osb walls? or exposed? can mice chew through that? I know they can get just about anywhere....

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1/4 OSB is fine for the celling/walls, I used it on mine and it is fine. Mice won't mess with copper, keep the lines on the outside of the osb, all fish houses have them outside. I have considered mounting lanterns in mine but just use free standing kerosene lanterns instead, very cheap. I would mount them in but I don't have that skill set!

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Paint will work well on OSB. Put the smooth side out. Also you can use 1x2s or 1x4s over the seems for a nice finished look instead of caulk.

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In order to hang that osb do you think I could use like a finish nailer? Or would I have to use screws?

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I would not use 1/4 inch OSB, especialy on the ceiling, it will bow like your paneling did. I used 7/16 on my shop, works fine. I pre-painted the OSB before I hung it. I used the finish nailer on the wallls, but I would use screws on the ceiling. Used Kilz pimer and paint. I recomend that you use primer, the OSB sucks paint like a sponge. I used Kilz because it helps with mold problems that might ocur when the building is not used or heated all the time.

Rockin' Randy

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we have had unpainted/ unprimed 7/16 osb for 20 years or so in our cabin and it looks just fine. It is holding up very well.

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I used a barrel stove in my deer shack for years and it worked fine. It is a little harder to get a constant temp, but hey its deer hunting. My dad did give me a propane stove that we added the last couple years. Nothing beats a good old wood burner IMO, but the propane stove was easier.

I used 7/16" chipboard and had no issues with warping, bowing, etc. I would suggest the same. 1/4" is to thin IMO. I didn't paint it either. I used drywall screws to secure it on the walls, got the seams as tight as I could and left it. My deer shack was pretty rustic, but warm and dry. Once we hung some things on the walls, put in furniture, etc it really didn't look bad at all. If you do anything to cover the seams I would use 1x's and NOT caulk.

For light we used lanterns and just hung them or moved them where we wanted them. Nothing permanent. 1. You can move them as needed. 2. You can take them home with you so your lights aren't vandalized, and you know they are working good. 3. A little safer as far as line leaks. If you do go with something permanent I would use copper on the outside, like in a fish house just for the ease of access to check/fix if needed. Think of vandals if you put in copper though?!?

Sounds like a fun project. I loved my shack for years (I did sell it). I also went on the cheap as best I could. My only advice there is think it through for long term. There are a lot of things to do that will make it nice and can be done on the cheap, but don't skimp on things, as it will cost you in the long run - $, time, comfort. Ex: Spend the extra $ for 7/16 rather than 1/4 chipboard. You will sleep easier and won't have to potentially replace it down the road, or be mad each time you walk in and see it bowing 5 years from now.

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Gurkster, thanks for all your information you provided me with. I am not trying to go cheap on everything its just hard justifying paying for all that and I have no ownership in the actual camp/land. I am debating now on weather to do the 7/16 on the walls or not. Think Ill for sure do that on the floor and ceiling. (floor has some down but starting to become weak in areas so im going to throw another layer down) Ill put some pics up after this post.

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Nice - The exterior looks a lot like mine used to. The inside of yours is much nicer looking.

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Very nice looking shack, fancy. Looks alot better than the land! lol get many deer of that clearcut?

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • SkunkedAgain
      It doesn't look like the lake level has gone up at all. I was up a week ago and struggled to get my boat in and out of the public landing on the west end of Head O Lakes. I used my paddle to push the boat further out to deeper water. I could hear the hull moving over the sandy/muddy bottom near the launch.
    • JerkinLips
      Pretty tough.  Was catching about 2 walleyes per hour and the biggest was only 13".  Back up Thursday so I hope I have better success.
    • smurfy
      the kid and I always check our stands prior.......i'll go back to check the conditions of said stands before he gets there to see what we need. while i'm at it if i can i shoot at grouse with shells that appear to not have bb,s in them!!!!🙄
    • LakeofthewoodsMN
      On the South Shore...  With unseasonably warm weather, there are still some anglers hitting the water and most have been rewarded.  Limits of walleyes and saugers being caught, and the forecast looking ahead is favorable. The best bite on the south end of LOW has been in 22-28 feet of water. Water temperatures are dropping and as the temps cool further, the bite has been excellent.     Vertical jigging with frozen emerald shiners has been the program for most anglers.  Bring plenty of bait, as you’ll need to sort through some smaller fish and short biters.  Plenty of eater fish to be had, just have to do a bit of sorting.  Anglers are also reporting very good numbers of jumbo perch and occasional pike mixed in with the walleyes.     For those fishing structure, if you slide up on top of a rock pile, don't be surprised to catch a big smallmouth bass, there are plenty around.   This week’s hot colors have been gold, gold/glow white, gold/chartreuse, gold/orange, and gold/glow white/pink.     One tip, a stinger hook on your jig will catch you more fish if you start missing too many fish. On the Rainy River...  Bait dealers are reporting good numbers of shiners in the river this past week.  Interesting, each night is different.  Some areas have the small shiners called pinheads.  Other areas have the larger minnows.     The river is producing some nice walleyes in various spots from Four Mile Bay to Wheeler's Point, to Baudette all the way to Birchdale.  There are 42 miles of navigable Rainy River from the mouth to Birchdale with plenty of public boat ramps along the way.     Walleyes are being caught in various depths, but 15-25 feet of water has been good.   Jigging with live or frozen emerald shiners has been highly effective. Some anglers are also trolling crankbaits to cover more ground and find fish. Both methods are producing solid results. Sturgeon fishing has been strong.  The catch-and-release sturgeon fishing is open into the spring when it changes to the "keep season" on April 24th. Up at the NW Angle...  Fall fishing continues to be excellent. Points, neck-down areas with current, shoreline breaks, and transition zones from rock to mud are all productive locations for walleye right now.   It is traditionally a mixed bag up around the many islands in this part of the lake and this fall is no different.  In addition to walleyes, pike, jumbo perch, and crappies are in the mix.  A jig and minnow has been the most effective presentation. Good muskie fishing is the norm during the fall of the year and area reports have been good.  In addition to casting, trolling shorelines, points and neckdown areas has been effective.  Muskies are often targeting schooling tullibees this time of year. The weather forecast for the next couple of weeks is conducive for fall fishing.  If you don't deer hunt, or if you have harvested your deer, consider some bonus walleye action before the ice forms.  The bite continues to be excellent.    
    • leech~~
    • gimruis
      I'm not one to leave that to chance the day I need it.  I always check on my stands prior to the season.  Just like I always shoot my rifle before the season and I always run my outboard motor before fishing opener.  Too many things to go wrong without confirming it ahead of time.   I guess it could have been beavers but the house itself didn't appear nearly big enough along one ditch.  It was about the size of chair.  I've seen beavers houses many times before and they appear much bigger than that.
    • leech~~
      Good thing you made a check run.  That would have really suked walking into opening day.  Why do you think muskrats and not beavers?  
    • gimruis
      Well I checked on stands over the weekend.  Kind of a disaster.   All the ditches are plum full and twice as wide becauase muskrats have clogged an area.  I spent an hour unclogging it and the water is slowly moving again, but our bridges and planks were underwater.  The back portion of the land where the best stand is was inaccessible.  Hopefully that changes by Saturday.  I have a feeling the muskrats are just going to clog it back up again.   Tons of standing corn still too.  They've started on it, but being so wet now with more rain coming, whatever's there will remain there for the foreseeable future.   All the grassland is completely flattened like a pancake due to 3-4 inches of heavy wet snow.  That eliminates about 75% of the pheasant habitat in this spot.  Total buzz kill.  And this specific spot was one of my better producers last season because the grass was intact and lush through December last year.
    • BWpineisland
      Jerkin, how was the fishing?
    • JerkinLips
      45.6°F Saturday afternoon.  Lake Vermilion was quite empty.
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