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change draw length?


Jameson

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Normally I my pull bow back with my right hand till my knuckle rests at the bottom of my ear lobe. Last year I began to really feel like my left arm was not extended enough, but didn't want to change anything during the season. Recently I've been playing around with placing my right knuckle at about my second molar. When I do this the string is out in front of my nose, left arm is straighter, and it seems like my shooting is tighter. I would sure like to use my ear lobe as my marker, again. Should I for sure adjust by bows draw length and get new arrows, or something else?

This is my first and only bow. It was set-up by a known archery shop and last Fall I did have them watch me shoot and they thought my draw length was set correctly. It'll be my fifth Fall archery hunting.

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Ear lobe is too long,you should be able to rest your thumb under your jaw bone and hook where it curves to your trigger finger at the back of the jaw bone. You have been over extending and that makes a unstable shooting form. I like to anchor that way and that puts the string at the tip of my nose and the corner of my mouth. So 3 anchor points. It is also easy and more accurate too shoot a bow that is short for you than if it is too long.

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...You have been over extending and that makes a unstable shooting form....

What do you mean.....Pulling my bow back too far? or straightening my left arm too much? or?

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+1 I think the ear lobe is too long. Sounds like your placement at the 2nd molar is very similar to Archerysniper description of placing your thumb around and under the back of your lower jaw bone. Thats exactly how I shoot and it allows for multiple anchor points which = consistent shooting.

If you can, go into a pro shop and have them adjust your length until it feels right. They should have some arrows for each length there to shoot so you dont have to buy a fresh 12 before your completely sure its going to work for you.

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You said you felt like your arm was not extended enough when you were at your ear? And then you were more extended at your molar? Your ear should be farther away than your molar, so it shouldve been the opposite...? When I anchor, my left arm is slighty bent, not straight. And it is always the same since I have the anchor points with my right hand that are consistent every time.

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Anchor my right hand pointy finger's knuckle at the ear lobe and it feels like my left arm doesn't straighten out completely...or maybe my shoulder sorta scrunches in.

If I pull up my bow and put my left arm all the way out my anchor is there on my jaw bone, molar area, whatever. It results in my D-loop being directly under my nose, in front of my mouth. Makes it hard impossible to have three anchor points.

Perhaps ear lobe is too far back, and where when the left arm is fully extended is too far forward?

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...If you can, go into a pro shop and have them adjust your length until it feels right....

This shouldn't be too much to ask of the shop I bought the bow at, right? Hoyt Avenger cam and half.

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I went to thumb release and my anchor point didn't change much and I was able to rid myself of a kisser button.

I anchor up with my pointer finger under my jaw bone, middle finger just above (the V it creates between the 2 fingers) and the string on the tip of my nose.

My left arm is slightly bent and all is aligned without having to adjust any body parts.

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Well if its the same shop that set you up originally and said you were fine anchoring at your ear lobe, maybe a different shop would be better? Just a suggestion?

Its sounds like your draw is too long and you were compensating for that by putting your anchor hand back to far. I would definately shorten up.

I dont know much about Hoyts and how easy it is to try different draw lengths, cant help you there.

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  • 'we have more fun' FishingMN Builders

hmmm, my pointer finger knuckle has always been on the front of my earlobe. Left arm is straight like a post, never bent, in or out. 45 degree stance with feet. has always worked dandy.

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Well if its the same shop that set you up originally and said you were fine anchoring at your ear lobe, maybe a different shop would be better? Just a suggestion?...

Good call, and I had the same thought after my last post.

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Well there are a couple of different variables I see in this. The length of the head of your release and the length of your Dloop can have an effect on how this all plays together.

You are trying to describe your anchor point and compare it to your front arm. They are separate items meant to work together, not compromise one for the other.

As far as anchoring, the bend in your string should sit at the corner of your mouth or just below. This is where a kisser button can be a great training tool and point of reference. Your bow arm should be bent just slightly, just so you're elbow isn't locked out. Then the length of your dloop and release combo should be matched so you get a good consistant, repeatable anchor point that isn't so far back on your face that you have to "open up" your chest arching your back. Your shoulders should be straight across and square. It should look like a nice straight line from your back elbow through to the grip of the bow.

And like what was said earlier, it is better to have a draw that is too short than too long.

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...Your shoulders should be straight across and square....

This is where I've been having a problem. I'll need to lengthen my draw length to have my anchor spot in the correct spot, while having my shoulders straight and square, and armed positioned correctly.

Thanks for the replies everyone.

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If your shoulders are rolling in, then you are too short. Any good shop should be able to help you shoot well and comfortably. If they ask you to change your form, be open minded. ou may need to unlearn some bad habits, but you will shoot better in the end. You've still got plenty of time to clean up your form before the season.

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You might also try a kisser button. I have one on mine, along with the peep and the string touching the tip of my nose makes the 3 points. But it's the feel of the kisser button in the corner of my mouth that lets me know for sure I'm where I need to be. Good luck.

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Just a heads up and something from my experience that might be of help with all of this: not all employees are created equal. There's a local shop that not long ago had two of the best bow guys I have ever known and one guy who I wouldn't let work on my kids' suction cup arrow shootin' bow. The variability of know-how and skill is extreme in many shops. Get to know an individual at a shop who really knows what he's talking about, then only bring your bow to him. Also, make it clear that he, and only he, will be doing the work on your bow. Don't just walk in and get help from any ol' random dude. Get referrals from people how know. Even asking at the shop you go to something like, "who's been here the longest and worked on the most bows?" is better than leaving it to random selection.

So, people keep talking about going to a good shop. IMO forget the shop and move down a level to the individual who'll be working on your bow.

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Plus 1 Scoot, I only have one guy work on my bows besides myself. So for anyone wondering He works at Forest Lake Gander ask for Mike Foster he has been doing my bow work for 20 years.

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