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Threads on Snowmobile Trailer


Mike Stark

Question

The threads that my tie down bar screw into on the trailer are stripped now. Is there anyway to reset the threads?

Thanks,

Mike

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27 answers to this question

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So i just did a search on google. Looks like a can buy a crank plate to attach to the sled.

I would still like to know if there is anyway to reset the threads.

Thanks.

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It depends on the make and model of trailer. Some higher quality trailers have access to the nut underneath the trailer. You can remove either a plate or the nut from a bracket on some models. cheaper trailers have them welded in, and you will have to bust it out to even use a replacement plate or re-weld a new one.

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I have a steel trailer with a wood floor. Would I be able to bolt the new crank plate to the wood floor?

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  • 'we have more fun' FishingMN Creators

I went over my snowmobile trailer this summer.

New springs, U-bolts, bearing job, and tacked on new nuts for the tie downs as the old ones nuts were stripped out. Before that I used a nut and backed it with a wrench and used the crank to tighten it up.

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If you are unable to access it to replace it, you could probably drill and tap it to the next larger size, but that would also involve needing a new crank with matching threads.

I haven't run into any that aren't replaceable though.

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you could drill it out and tap for a heli-coil thread insert, that way you still have the same thread size for your crank.

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Quote:
you could drill it out and tap for a heli-coil thread insert, that way you still have the same thread size for your crank.

True, but on an installation like this there is more of a risk of it walking in or out with repeated use and corrosion.

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Not totally familar with this but, couldn't you drill out the current nut, (large enough that the bolt/crank would slide through) and then just weld a new nut to the bottom of the old nut? You would continue to use the current bolt/crank.

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full-21032-16595-images.jpg

This is the plate I am finding online. Would I be able to bolt this to the trailer?

I don't know how to weld and don't have the equipment to weld.

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looks like that will work only if you have that bolted over a main support beam under the deck, you probally could use U bolts to achieve this.

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  • 'we have more fun' FishingMN Creators

Not totally familar with this but, couldn't you drill out the current nut, (large enough that the bolt/crank would slide through) and then just weld a new nut to the bottom of the old nut? You would continue to use the current bolt/crank.

That is what I did.

Mike that plate would work as long as it was tied into the frame and not just the plywood.

For the cost of the plate you could have someone in Ely weld a nut on.

If I lived in Ely I'd weld the nut on for free and what it cost you in gas to trailer to Twig you could pay to have it done in Ely.

Don't over think this one. Have a nut welded on in Ely. smile

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Bringing it to a shop and have them weld another nut on would probably cost less than buying those new plates. I have tie-down plates similiar to that bolted to the trailer decking and use for ATV tie-downs. I don't see why that would be a problem.

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As long as the threads are long enough on the cranks its the easiest way. Some skis are too thick depending on the style. Mine are marginally long enough on some brands.

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My brackets were just similar to the one pictured above, except they had only 2 holes in them instead of 4 and they were 1 inch wide by 2.5 inches long. The underside of my trailer has a channel that's only 1.25 inches wide where they're mounted, so the 2 inch brackets online would never come close to fitting. I couldn't find the narrower 1 inch bracket anywhere, so I just called up a local welder and asked him to make me one. He did it for 10 bucks. I got two from him so I have a spare. smile

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Here's a picture of mine:

full-12739-16659-2012_01_20_17_19_40_788

The trailer originally had a pair of these rivited to the bottom of the frame, in little 1.25 inch wide channels. Unfortunately, one of mine fell off. I just had these made up for 10 bucks at a little welding shop nearby. Would cost you about 50 cents if you had your own welder and some metal laying around. Anyway as for mounting, I didn't feel like removing the plywood and re-riveting it how it was, so I just drilled out the rivets and then went all the way through the plywood, frame, and bracket with 1.25 inch bolts (quarter-inch diameter).

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Not to hijack, but my crank rusted tight.. I needed to sawzall it off to get sled off. I don't use trailer much, so no real biggie, but I would like to fix it. Do I now need to drill old bolts off/out, and then retap nut? Nut is still there. I should have put neverseize on this summer, stoopid me... doh.

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Had the same thing happen to me, both, hold-down froze up (rusted). Used a sawsall and smallgrinder to get the holder out of the way for drilling out. One side worked fine but the other I was off center of the nut when I drilled for the tap.

I did try an easy out after drilling the pilot hole- but no luck.

Ended up grinding off the old nut and rewelding one of them.

If you drill it out be sure that you are centered - good luck.

Would have only taken a minute to grease the threads-I do that now!!

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So it looks like the nut is just an insert in the deck of the trailer.

I'm pretty sure my nuts are welded directly to the trailer blush

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Not to hijack, but my crank rusted tight.. I needed to sawzall it off to get sled off. I don't use trailer much, so no real biggie, but I would like to fix it. Do I now need to drill old bolts off/out, and then retap nut? Nut is still there. I should have put neverseize on this summer, stoopid me... doh.

Is your trailer steel or aluminum?

I'd be worried about the centering of the new hole.

I think I'd try to knock/cut/grind off the old bolt and get a new one put on.

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Yeah, I know what you mean. Trailer is Alum Sled Bad, the nut is under the deck, inside an alum bracket type assembly, so the nut is actually slightly "loose" but won't turn.

Not sure best way to do it, maybe hit it with lube and heat, after welding a long "arm" to help turn it with more force... I guess I could just cut off the alum brackets under it, which would drop the nut and remaingin botl away, and then use the plate that is shown above...?...

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I just picked up a sweet deal on a new 8X10 Alum Triton for $999 in Wis. and the tie down nuts are C-clipped in from the top so they are a little loose but cannot turn in the bracket on the bottom.

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BoxMN, if you can take a picture of the underside, that might help determine what the best plan is.

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Thanks Lightning! I will do that this weekend. Thanks guys for your help! I might have a need to bring the sleds to more snow sometime this winter wink

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Box - dad would be disappointed.

Actually, he would more dissappointed that I even have snowmobiles, haha! smile He wasn't a sled fan. But yeah, he would say I wasn't a good boyscout!!!

He hated ice fishing, sleds, bowling and golf! At least I only do two of them these days wink

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