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DIY Antler Mounting


DonBo

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Just started working on mounting some of my antlers and thought I'd share it with you guys so you can see how it's done and be able to do it yourself.

There will be lots of photos and it may take a few days to get all the steps down so please be patient with me.

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Here's what I started with.

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First step is to clean all the hide off the skull plate. This is really easy just after the animal is harvested. If you wait as long as I did on these it is a real pain. It then becomes a job for hammers and chisles and stout knives and plyers and...you get the idea. Make sure you get all the junk out from around the pedicles because you will need the room in the finishing process.

Next we need to make sure the skull is cut properly. I like the back to line up like this:

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Then I grind off the "wings" (for lack of better term) as shown below, or just cut off the lower portion of the skull.

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Then you need to cut a piece of plywood to mount the skull too. I like 3/8", but this is 1/2" and works just fine. Everyone will have their favorite shape, I like this:

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They are approx. 4" wide and 5" tall.

They should be just a bit wider than the skull plate as shown below.

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Then we just need to drill some holes and screw it down to the plywood.

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Get the skull near the top of the plywood so the back angle of the pedicles goes straight down to the edge of the wood. This will make shapeing it later look more natural. If the skull does not fit flat to the plywood you can at this point just put some shims under the areas that need to be raised.

I just grind off the screws that stick through the back. Also at this point I write on the back the state, weapon used and date that I took the deer. Nice to be able to look back at that in later years.

More to come...

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Once the antlers are securely screwed to the plywood I like to fill the hollow under the skull with something. This is tape, it works really well because it won't expand on you after you stick it in there.

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I have in the past used spray foam for this part of it. It did fill the area well but never did like the finished product as much.

Next you mix up some plaster of paris, found at any old hardware or big box home store. You'll get the hang of mixing it the more you use it. Get it to a thick, pastie consistancy and using a putty knife start to fill the empty space.

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Don't try to finish the job here. You should plan on at least 3-4 layers with plenty of time between coats to let it dry. Because this first application of the plaster will be thicker than the following ones you should let it dry overnight before adding any more. If you put it on too thick it will crack as it dries.

That's it for today. Doing everything to this point shouldn't take more than a couple hours. Tomorrow we'll smooth this coat out some and add more plaster.

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Looks good so far Don. I've got a few hanging that I should start as well as long as the fish aren't biting. Maybe that will change tonight however!

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Not much to do today but smooth some of the rough edges from yesterday.

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I like to use a wood rasp for shaping the plaster and this will probably be the only tool I'll use for this job.

Then apply another coat.

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You should be able to get the entire finished shape in this step.

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That's all for today. You could probably have gotten two coats done today if you really wanted to, but waiting between applications of plaster is always best.

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Looking pretty good! How much does one of your finished mounts weigh? Ive always used fish fill or mammal fill which is pretty much like paper mache powder and you can do the entire thing in one application and hardly adds any weight. Its maybe pretty similar to plaster of paris I was just curious because Ive never used it before. Thanks.

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I just use rolls of "stuffing" to fill the void.

I can sit down and crank out a finished product in 2 hrs max.

Total cost of materials is under 5 bucks.

PS - I have boards piled up that are cut, routered and stained already.

Here is the last one I did.

joshsdeer1.jpg

joshsdeer4.jpg

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I'd be interested to hear more about the products you guys use instead of the paster. This is the only way I've ever really done it and I'm sure there's better ways.

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i use bondo. next to duct tape, it'll do anything! bondo has to be done in layers, but you can add layers every few minutes, cause it sets up fast. that why i like it. you just have to be close with your final coat, as it take a bit more elbow grease to file and rasp into shape. i feel like a pastry chef icing a cake when i do my final coat with bondo grin

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Is the another thread where a guy can post the racks I've done? This has been an informative post and I didn't want to post mine and get DonBo's off track. I'm not suggesting that the above post did anything wrong, I just thought there might be others out there that have ideas to share.

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geast stuf Don this might get me to start on all of the ones that are sitting in the basement like thirty of them.

Where is the rack with the metal tag from havent seen one of those tags for a long time. I think I still have a couple of those from back in thwe day.

My neighbor uses spray foam as filling also but I think its a bit messy to work with.

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Okay, I really like this topic, I have a rack from a couple of years ago that I left the hair and hide on but dried it out in borax, when I mount it I still want the hair and hide to show but don't want the rest of the skull plate to show. Any recommendations? I am trying to figure out how to use plater of paris or bondo with out it getting on the hair........

I would wrap it is some leather or something like that as well...

post more pictures, I am sure Donbo won't mind........Share that knowledge people

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I use quilted batting for my filler.

Cheap, clean, quick/easy to do.

A few bucks for a whole yard(which will do several antler mounts)

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I use quilted batting for my filler.

Cheap, clean, quick/easy to do.

A few bucks for a whole yard(which will do several antler mounts)

Sorry, still a little confused. What exactly do you do with the batting? It's a layered material, correct??? You use it to fill under the skull? Then what do you use for the forming?

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Thanks Donbo for this information. I think its awesome!!!

I've got a question along these lines. I've got a couple pairs of antler sheds that i would like to mounts similiar to what you guys are doing. The only thing i can think of is to drill a screw into the base of the antler to hold the anlter in place. Does anyone have any idea's for mounting sheds??

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The batting is used for all filler under the felt.

I ball some up to fill the void below the cut skull plate.

Then take a few full pieces and go over the entire skull plate and area that gets the felt over it.

I just use a stapler to tack it down, use an exacto knife to cut away the excess.

Its hard to describe, I know.

All I know is I can screw down the skull plate, and have all the filler/batting on the board and ready for felt in probably 20 minutes.

Put the spray foam, bondo, plaster aside and get some batting.

Here is one of the first ones I did.

antlermount1.jpg

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hockey, yours look nice. I'm surprised at how well you can "mold" the batting into a nice even form.

certified, not sure how you'd do a set of sheds. Anyone else have an idea?

vister, I've used the bondo before and other than the fact that it dries so quick and you can get everything done in a day, I like how easy it is to shape the plaster better.

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I glue down a piece of styrofoam for the filler, shape it with a rasp and sand paper to where I want it. Then use a plaster of paris over the foam and skull to eliminate any lines or uneveness, then sand again. Does anyone else do this? It sure seems like a soft filler would be way easier! and quicker!

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Quote:
Does anyone have any idea's for mounting sheds??

Mountain Mike's make a reproduction skull plate kit that you can use to mount your sheds. I think it's called the Shed Spreader? Might be what you're looking for...

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I glue down a piece of styrofoam for the filler, shape it with a rasp and sand paper to where I want it. Then use a plaster of paris over the foam and skull to eliminate any lines or uneveness, then sand again. Does anyone else do this? It sure seems like a soft filler would be way easier! and quicker!

That sounds like a great idea and less mess than the spray foam. May have to try that some day.

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Quote:
Does anyone have any idea's for mounting sheds??

Mountain Mike's make a reproduction skull plate kit that you can use to mount your sheds. I think it's called the Shed Spreader? Might be what you're looking for...

Do a search online for Jonas Brothers Taxidermy Supply, WASCO, Van Dykes...or any of the taxidermy suppliers....they all have shed connectors....very simple to use.

Lots of good ideas here...I'd be weary of using plaster without some kind of resin to make the plaster like cement once it's dried...I use a powdered yellow dextrine glue, fiberglass blow in insulalation as a filler, and a small amount of plaster....mixed correctly with water and it gives you about a 30 minute working time which is plenty of time to build your "base" and shape it how you want and you can do it all in one sitting and it will not crack - EVER. The powdered yellow dextrine glue/blow in insulation combo is amazing....it binds everything together and the plaster allows you to shape the form. Let it dry 24 hours, shave off the rough edges and you will have a mount that will withstand a tornado. If a mount falls off the wall with just plaster there is a very good chance the plaster will crack/break under the leather wrap.....just speaking from experience. smile

Panel mounts are fun to do....and you can get pretty creative with them really - more so than people think. I usally crank out a dozen or so this time of year to pass the time.

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Shed mount -

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I have used both plumber's putty and modeling clay as filler. Both have worked great and I have rack mounts that are over 15 uears old that still look great.

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Donbo,

good post and pics. I use a fast set paper mache that I get at van dykes. It is inexpensive and sets up in minutes. I dont use any filler. I buy it by the 5lb. bag which will last me a couple of years and can do about 20-30 sets of antlers. I think it is about $10 for a 5lb. bag. I usually do a few racks at a time, let them set over night and the next day you can file them down. I use a koolwhip bowl and take a 1" putty knife and take 5-6 scoops of paper mache add a small amount of water and start forming it sets up in minutes. I do 5-10 racks per year and have used this stuff at least 10 years without a problem.

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C's sells skull plate(kit) for mounting sheds.

For antler mounting.

I use plaster of paris, but I mix it quite runny. Put a form (tape,thick paper) around wood edge. Pour plaster in,let set up a bit. When still moist remove paper and form with tool. I use a butter knife. To give final shape I wet sand.

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I use small L brackets to mount sheds and then bend them to the right angle to get the antlers to set where I want. I takes a little longer and they arent as sturdy as the skull plates probably are but once you get the material hardened around it they dont move much. I might try out the brackets though this year if I find a match to mount and see how well they work.

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So, after taking the weekend off to do some fishing, I'm back at it and ready to go.

Just a bit of extra filling and shaping with my rasp and the molding portion is done.

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Here she is, ready to go.

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Here's where I'd really like to hear from the rest of you what material you use to cover the form. I like to use buckskin that I've had tanned from my own deer. I think it looks real good and it adds to the trophy status for me.

First, cut a piece big enough to wrap all around the entire form.

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Then staple it tight on the top and bottom.

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Carefully cut down each antler to the edge of the pedicle. Don't cut too much or too far, it's easier to cut again than try to fix a cut gone too far.

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Next begin to carefully cut around the base of the pedicle.

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You can continue to staple the matierial around the back as you go.

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Once you've got it fitting good, use a hot glue gun to glue the material down all around the base of the antler.

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Don't forget to glue the edge down as well.

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Make sure the second flap overlaps the first a bit and glue it down as well.

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Once all that's glued down around the antler you can finnish with the staples around the back.

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Carefully hammer down the staples, trim the excess and you're ready to finish it.

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Here's another part where your creativety comes in and I'd like to hear how others handle this part.

I like to cut three thin (1/4" or less) strips of a contrasting color of buckskin and braid it. Hot glue the ends so it doesn't come apart and you've got a nice looking filler for around the base of the antlers.

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Then, hotglue the end to the back of the antler and glue it all around the base.

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Hotglue the end, trim the excess and you're done. These pieces were a bit over a foot long and was plenty to go around this set of antlers.

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I know some use felt or velvet or some other material to cover the form. I think a camo material would look nice, especially on a bow-killed deer. Some use rope or a wider piece of material to go around the base of the antlers. Let me know what you've used and what you like best.

Some would be done with this project now. You can attach a picture type hanger to the back and put 'er on the wall the way it is. Most want some kind of plaque or slab wood to mount it on. Any way you choose to handle your trophy is fine by me.

In this short thread there are 11 different products mentioned for forming the skull, just goes to show you there is no right or wrong way to do it. IMO, the only wrong way is leaving them sit in a box in the garage.

I'll try to post more picks of the different plaques I've used over the years. Please feel free to post your own, or add any suggestions, tips you've found to make it better or easier on the rest of us.

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