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What sights do you guys recommend?


MUSKY18

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Going to put a new set of sights on my bow for next season. THinking of a 3 pin setup. What do you guy/gals our there recommend that has worked well for you? Just looking for some overall thoughts to get me in the ballpark of what to look for! Thanks!

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As far as name brands, you will see multiple choices, what I recommend is that you buy one that has alot of fiber optic wrapped on the sight or a light to ensure bright pins.

I prefer to use the .019 pins, they are a litle smaller and it allows you to hone in the your target better.

Myself I use the Apex Gear Atomic 6-pin sight, I use the 6 pins for 3D shoots and target practice all summer then remove either 2 or 4 of the pins for hunting in the fall.

Mark

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I have the T.R.U. Ball Axcel 5 pin. I absolutely love it. Thought I would need the light on it but wow I don't. Don't expect it to be as bright as it actually is. it runs about 180 bucks but is a micro adjust and wouldn't get one that isn't. Scheels carrys it.

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I use toxonics sight and they come in a 3 or 5 pin model and they are on of the toughest sight on the market I ended up droping my bow twice this year from stands (long story) and the sight were never off.

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Several people have brought up sight lights, just be aware that they are not legal for hunting in MN.

As you are probably aware, there are lots of great sights out there. I am personally a fan of SpotHogg. They are strong, very light, and simple. You can get them wrapped, or unwrapped. Personally, I don't think that the wrapped pins are necessary for hunting except for maybe a top pin, I think they are actually too bright sometimes.

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Musky18,

I have used sevearal sights. I liked my Trophy Taker Top Pin sight. It had 4 pins and the top one had lots of fiber optic wraps. It was very bright, very SOLID and a good piece of equipment.

I upgraded to a HHA 5519 single pin sight w/the rehastat in a .0019 fiber optic. It is great because the rehastat can be adjusted to dim the halo effect you can get without some kind of shading device over the fiber optic fibers. My eyes are getting worse and it is a really clear sight pic now. I also wanted to have something set for beyond 50 yards.

the Top Pin sight was very good. I had pins at 20,30,40 and 47 on my old bow a 2001 Darton mag 33. It just used a vinyle band to cover the wraps of optic.

There are lots of good sights out there. You may want to look at having the tics on the side of the bar for vertical and horizontal adjustment. Just use them for reference while adjusting the whole sight. Check for used sight in good condition and you may get more bang for your buck. There are lots of great sights on the shelves as well.

Good Luck

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I have the Truball Axcel 7 pin. I got sick of busting fibers and breaking my sights and having to replace them every couple of years so I went all out and got this sight. It is extremely solid and would have a hard time busting this one. The fibers are completely enclosed right out to the tip so you really cant bust fibers. Very bright and the like Code-man said the micro adjust is very nice to have to dial in your pins just perfectly. Well worth the extra money.

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I would look at what range you typically shoot at deer. If you hunt out west or in an open area I would consideer 3-5 pin set up. If you primarily hunt MN in the woods I would look at a one pin set up for less confusion and more focus on one spot. Besides out west this year was the first time I shot at a deer past twenty yards in probably five years.

I currently use four pins and like that set up for what I do.

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i still like the single pin in the center good to 35yrds thats good enough for my target practice and the hunting that i do

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Question for InTheNorthWoods...can you identify where in the regs it states that you can't use sight lights? I looked this morning, and couldn't find it. I have heard this fact before (not using lights), but I've never seen it documented.

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Things to look for in a sight, complied by my many mistakes in searching for my perfect bow sight.

STRONG. Has to be stout. Not necessarily that you are going to break the sight itself in most cases, but if you have ever watched slow mo video of arrows being shot you can see that way more things flex and wiggle on a bow that you would expect.

Bright pins. Gotta be able to see what you are shooting at. Most extended fiber sites these days do a good enough job of this. The true test for this is hunting out of a dark ground blind in the morning and evening.

Protected pins! Fiber optics are pretty fragile and can break easily. Make sure the pins are protected from tip to end.

I don't care what brand you choose but I would at least look for the above 3 items when choosing. Below are some other items that I personally feel are must haves for me.

Micro adjust. A fine micro click adjustment can be invaluable when really zeroing in. I hate wiggling a whole site window to move things just a touch. Micro adjust will let the mechanics drive the movement. In my opinion this is 10 times easier to really zero in your shots.

A sight ring that matches my desired peep size. Most people say to choose a peep that matches the size (when drawn) of your sight ring so you can center the ring in the peep for better accuracy. I'm a hunter, and I like to take the opposite course. I like a peep that is as large as possible to let in the most light for low light hunting. I choose a 1/4" peep which is fairly large. Now I look for a sight that will center in a large peep at my draw length for helping to improve accuracy while not sacrificing light gathering with a small peep. Again, I'm a hunter not a spot or 3D shooter.

Customer service. Should something happen I like to know that the company will be there for parts or whatever. The only way to know this is to really do some research online on forums like this and others.

It's a pretty simple short list. There are other items that each individual may want or care about such as multi axis leveling, however I feel that you will likely be happy with your purchase if you keep the above things in mind. How above and beyond you go is up to you.

That being said, I finally settled on shooting Spot Hogg sights. There are also many others out there that will make great sights and fit the criteria and may fit your budget or personal preferences better. If I would have started off with the spot hog though spendy, I would have saved myself $100's over changing and upgrading because I wasn't quite happy with the site I had.

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Question for InTheNorthWoods...can you identify where in the regs it states that you can't use sight lights? I looked this morning, and couldn't find it. I have heard this fact before (not using lights), but I've never seen it documented.

I should appologize, I took a look at the regs and couldn't find it.

I must have been confused by some other regulations (illegal in ND where I also hunt and not allowed by P&Y), but I could have sworn it was not legal in MN too (maybe it has changed).

At any rate, it is against Pope & Young's rules, and any animal shot while using a light on the bow sight would be ineligible for Pope & Young even if legal in that state. Same goes for lighted nocks.

I apologize for giving misinformation.

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I started with the TRU Glow and wasn't impressed and was getting very frustrated with tunin it. Got a micro adjust and the smaller point and wow did that help. I did drop the size of my peep down. If I kept the sight stretched out far I didn't need to change but only one problem...it wouldn't fit in the case then!

I hear Spot Hogg has a modle where you can pick colors of pins and features in the sight. Was very tempted to go all greens since red is first lost in low light but went with my TRU Ball Axcell.

Gus did a great thing but I would like to comment also about QUIET!!!!!!!!! I shot one and wow it was loud. Could just hear it shake/vibrate after being shot. Mine has a Harmonic Dampener in it and I really like.

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I was shooting a Copper John Dead nuts for a few years, and recently switched to Sword. I looked at Spott Hogg, but I feel the sword is of equal quality for a lot less money.

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What I have gotten from an Official Measurer is that Pope and Young does not want any Electronic Devices on the bow. According to them the Lighted Knocks and Lights on the bow are not allowed. Even if you video tape yourself with one of those cameras that goes off of the stabalizer you are disqualified. If you "party" hunt you are also disqualified.

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Gus,

That was an outstanding take on choosing a sight. You pretty much nailed it.

I would like to add that my kids bow sight have a plastic shield that covers the fiberoptics around the oval housing that connects with two little screws. Be careful with things that can come loose. - There was a simple fix just sqeeze out some Shoe Goo on the edges of the shield. Many guys don't like to do a fix like this but it seems to be holding up.

Steve

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I would check out Schaffer Archery there sight is awsome. There are no exposed fiber optix and the thing is built tough. It is the best sight on the market in my opinoin.

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I would check out Schaffer Archery there sight is awsome. There are no exposed fiber optix and the thing is built tough. It is the best sight on the market in my opinoin.

I just put one on my new Z7 and I absolutely love it. Plus it has my name engraved on it so it's one of a kind. wink The bow rocks as well. Had it all set up and zeroed in at 30 yards in 45 minutes. It's nice working in a pro shop.

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Things to look for in a sight, complied by my many mistakes in searching for my perfect bow sight.

STRONG. Has to be stout. Not necessarily that you are going to break the sight itself in most cases, but if you have ever watched slow mo video of arrows being shot you can see that way more things flex and wiggle on a bow that you would expect.

Bright pins. Gotta be able to see what you are shooting at. Most extended fiber sites these days do a good enough job of this. The true test for this is hunting out of a dark ground blind in the morning and evening.

Protected pins! Fiber optics are pretty fragile and can break easily. Make sure the pins are protected from tip to end.

I don't care what brand you choose but I would at least look for the above 3 items when choosing. Below are some other items that I personally feel are must haves for me.

Micro adjust. A fine micro click adjustment can be invaluable when really zeroing in. I hate wiggling a whole site window to move things just a touch. Micro adjust will let the mechanics drive the movement. In my opinion this is 10 times easier to really zero in your shots.

A sight ring that matches my desired peep size. Most people say to choose a peep that matches the size (when drawn) of your sight ring so you can center the ring in the peep for better accuracy. I'm a hunter, and I like to take the opposite course. I like a peep that is as large as possible to let in the most light for low light hunting. I choose a 1/4" peep which is fairly large. Now I look for a sight that will center in a large peep at my draw length for helping to improve accuracy while not sacrificing light gathering with a small peep. Again, I'm a hunter not a spot or 3D shooter.

Customer service. Should something happen I like to know that the company will be there for parts or whatever. The only way to know this is to really do some research online on forums like this and others.

It's a pretty simple short list. There are other items that each individual may want or care about such as multi axis leveling, however I feel that you will likely be happy with your purchase if you keep the above things in mind. How above and beyond you go is up to you.

That being said, I finally settled on shooting Spot Hogg sights. There are also many others out there that will make great sights and fit the criteria and may fit your budget or personal preferences better. If I would have started off with the spot hog though spendy, I would have saved myself $100's over changing and upgrading because I wasn't quite happy with the site I had.

i completely disagree with having the brightest sights out there. you cant see what you are shooting at in low light with bright sights! your sights in the foreground blur out what you are looking at in the background. personally, i use .019 diameter pins, and only have three pins in my sight. i dont have huge amounts of fiberoptic wrapped up in the sight either. just enough to see the sight. i think the reason a lot of deer are wounded are because of people shooting too early/late, not having excellent target acquistion. they are silhouette shooting, only because they can still see their pins. if i cant see my pins, reminding you they arent bright, its time to climb down from the tree.

the only purpose very bright sights serve is inside a ground blind

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I went to the "Skinnier" diameter pins I believe they are .019 compaired to .029? COrrect me if I'm wrong. I was expecting a lot less light since I reduced the Fiber Optics and I had to go a next size smaller for Peep Sight. I was wrong. I can see pretty good later in the low light then I thought. I have a 5 pin and they alternate Green Red Green Red Green. When I can't see my red pin it has been almost exactly when legal light is over. I know a lot of people who like to stay out there afterwards but in my book if I am not loosing pins till end of legal shooting hours it's bright enough. Why risk injuring or wounding a deer? Not worth it in my book. When I did switch to the skinnier fiber optics I didn't know what I was really getting into and now I wouldn't go back. I personally love those little specs on there for anything further then 20 yards. Instead of picking the area of the deer it almost seems like you can pick the rib or pick a hair and I"m under the thinking Aim Small Miss Small. Just my .02

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