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kevfish1

Anyone use pro rib siding??????

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kevfish1

I have some questions on using pro rib siding from menards on a fish house. Questions on how to install it. please post if you used it and i will ask some of my questions thanks

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jerkbait

I did. I will try and help if I can.

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kevfish1

where the seams are at every 3 feet does there have to be a stud? and if so how did u pre-plan for this? I would have to know how far the ends go into the corner pieces to pre plan this. My plan was to have steel tubing for studs every 2 feet. could you just secure the seams together with small screws if they dont fall on a stud?

Are you happy with how the siding looks?

Has it held up good? How many years have you had it?

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Reynolds

I used Pro-Rib on my house, and I am happy with the way that it turned out. It is nice to know that I am not going to have to mess with the exterior of the house again as long as I own it. I wasn't a big fan of the color of the vinyl siding that used to be on the house, so I opted for the green Pro-Rib. Because my house used to have vinyl siding, there was a layer of OSB on the outside of the house, so I didn't have to worry about hitting a stud, or running the sheets horizontally. It was fairly easy to put up when I had another person helping me out. A little different story when I had to put it up by myself.

This is the second fish house that I have changed over to Pro-Rib, and for me, it is the only way to go. I also did all of my facia and soffit with the metal accessories, so I don't have to worry about rotting boards or painting.

When I come home for Christmas, I will be putting on a white Pro-Rib roof with white trim accessories.

th_Fishhouse.jpg

FishHouse2.jpg

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Reynolds

Kevfish1,

I was also going to tell you, that i know you can try calling around to a few different lumber yards to see if they have any extra Pro Rib panels laying around. I know of one place in particular that often has quite a few panels. A lot of times customers order too many when building pole sheds and such, and end up returning the extras back. I know when I called and asked about green sheets, they had about about fifty or so. I paid less than half the cost of what you would pay at Menards.

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Big Buck Buster

Kevfish1,

You also have the option of running the siding horizontal instead of vertical. You won't have to worry about where the studs end up when you are putting the studs vertical.

If you want the siding running vertical, plan out where the seams will be, and put a couple cross members from stud to stud to give the seam some support.

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kevfish1

reynolds, do you think it would work with 2 foot on cener studs? Is that enough support in your opinion? Is that just a j molding at the bottom of the siding????

what is the name of the place that you found to have extras on hand???

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Reynolds

I would think you would be fine with running the sheets vertically as long as you are running crossmembers where you have seams but no stud is present. Say for example you had 8ft sidewalls, your very first seam off of a corner there will be no stud present with 16" or 24" stud spacing. Like mentioned above, I would run crossmembers horizontally at 2,4,and 6ft along with attaching the sheet at the bottom and top.

That is C-channel along the bottom. J-channel is run along the junction where the top of the the wall meets the soffit. You can also buy j-channel that has the female end to accept the soffit metal.

I bought my material in Milaca.

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gizmoguy

Here is my idea for my next house. I plan to use the metal siding and roofing. Run the cross boards like a pole barn. Attach the metal siding and have the inside of the walls spray foamed. Most places only do an inch or so thick anyway. This would mostly fill the extra gap the cross members made. This would glue everything together, add support to the siding, act as a moisture barrier, make it leak proof and make it very quiet. This system would work well with the 24" stud spacing. Then you still add the fiberglass insulation between the studs. Also you might concider doing the bottom edge around the house 1' or 1 1/2' with 3/4 inch plywood painted white. That is the zone that might contact ice and stuff that could possably dent the steel. Also by painting it white it would reflect the sunlight and minimize the banking from melting away from your house.

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Lip_Ripper Guy

I just got done using the Pro Rib siding on a house in the vertical direction. It was very easy.

At the top and bottom of the siding, as well as around the windows and doors I used J channel. Where the sheets overlapped, I put screws through the seam...there is no need for a stud there. I ran the rubber roof over the top J channel and screwed the aluminum termination bars into the small part of the J on the outside.

One lesson learned was to not have a big rib right at the corner as it would interfere with the corner piece. Luckily it was easy to snip the rib off.

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jerkbait

Kevfish,

When I built mine I ran the steel horizontal the full length of the house, this way it is pepindicular to the studs. I have no sheeting behind my steel, just tyvek and I used 1x4s studs 24" oc. I also stuffed the ribs full of steel wool before I put the corners on to keep the mice out, so far so good. Basically as long as your backing is running pepindicular you will have support at the seam. I have had mine for 5 years now and still looks great.

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kevfish1

Thanks for the info. What is a Termination bar???? could you explain running the aluminum over the small part of the J and screwing to the outside??????? So at your seams you just basically screwed the 2 sheets of metal together>

?

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kevfish1

ttt

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alwaysonthemove

nuttin beter than having a nice fish house in the back yard!

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Lip_Ripper Guy

The termination bar is sold at Menards right next to the rubber roofing. It is an aluminum strip that attaches over the rubber roof with screws to give you a nice clean edge.

I'll try to explain the J channel, but I'll have to get some pictures posted. At the bottom of the siding, the J channel is mounted exactly like the letter 'J'. At the top of the siding, it is mounted as if you were to flip the letter J over the cross at the top of the letter J. Where the bottom of the hook is made, it is level with the top of the OSB on the roof, and you pull the rubber over to the short part of the J. The termination strip is screwed on the short part of the J. Clear as mud?

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kevfish1

RIPPER GUY, A picture would greatly be appeciated. I am also going with a rubber roof

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mnhunter 3815

wow my house looks just like that lol nice color

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kevfish1

ttt

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hondarider550

I used the pro rib siding on a horse barn that I built this year and I would use it again in the future. You do not have to have a stud placed where the seams meet. I ran horizontal runners every 4 foot apart with the siding running vertical. I placed screws in every rib of the sheet on these runners. If I thought that a seam needed a little more support I would run a screw through the seam just to make sure.

Like I said I would use it in a heartbeat for my future projects.

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ratherbefishin

Tryin not to hyjack this thread.

Im aslo going to use this as my siding, my house is going to be 6 x 12, it says at menards each sheet covers 3' , I was wondering if im going to need a little more cause the sheets overlap? or in my case is 4 sheets going to cover it for the long sides?

Thanks!

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OKIE

how much is the tin at menards

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ratherbefishin

I think its around 32$ for a 3' X 16' piece

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kevfish1

After looking at some of pro ribs trim I think I figured out how to do the top. But for the bottom I am debating. The house will have steel studs. I could set the studs in 3/4" from the outside of the trailer and let the siding sit on top of the trailer????

Or overlap the siding onto the sidewall of the trailer frame and use some J-channel? my concearn is the bottom J-channel getting damaged when setting the house on the ice or when cranking the house up out of the frozen snow the house was banked with?? what have you guys done at the bottom in this regards??

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OKIE

Thanks

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kevfish1

ttt

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walleye 4 me

After looking at some of pro ribs trim I think I figured out how to do the top. But for the bottom I am debating. The house will have steel studs. I could set the studs in 3/4" from the outside of the trailer and let the siding sit on top of the trailer????

Or overlap the siding onto the sidewall of the trailer frame and use some J-channel? my concearn is the bottom J-channel getting damaged when setting the house on the ice or when cranking the house up out of the frozen snow the house was banked with?? what have you guys done at the bottom in this regards??

I found this thread and had a few questions. Kevfish1, your idea of setting the studs back so the j-channel is on top of the floor makes sense to me but if I was making a house that was only 6' wide this would make me think that it would be a pretty short bunk with the house being this narrow already. Also, for people that use the j channel on the bottom of the wall, does water collect there and eventually rust?

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Lip_Ripper Guy

I'd personally NOT set the J channel on top of the floor. That's just another place for water and road spray to get into the house between the top of the floor and bottom of J channel. The better way to do it is to carry your siding down over the outside edge of the frame, and screw the J channel into the frame with self tapping screws.

You can keep water from collecting by drilling small drainage holes every few feet.

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Knute27

What do you guys suggest about a roof design?  Type of roof?  I am using pro rib steel on the sides and was planning on building a sloped roof with homemade rafters (not a very big slope) but I dont know how to tie the V front in with that or how I would cut the pro rib into angles to cover it?  any ideas?

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