Albert Lea-Austin-Faribault-Mankato-Northfield-Waseca, Fishing Reports

[riverrat56]

Mongo, I have heard the same thing, that below water all that is heard is the prop noise in the water and it is equal for almost all motors.

I really think the bite this weekend was aided by being nearer to the motor. Case in point, Friday morning saw three of us in my boat, my dad and I were catching fish with 40' of 10lb Power Pro out using #5 SR and #4 Hornets. Our buddy was using the same lures but trolling with 12lb mono and running ~100' back, only 1 fish for him, until he went to a deeper diving lure with less line out. Pike and muskie guys troll in the prop wash all the time and are very effective at it, why wouldn't something similar although less intense work for walleyes?

[Team Otter]

I do not have a line counter but guess around 20-25 yards ?

Let out line until you get just behind the last of your prop wash and see what happens.

[Muddog]

Quote:

Has anyone been to Elysian recently? I was thinking about trying it this weekend, but I have never fished it. Any tips on where to start on the lake?

I would say put in on the south side of the lake and fish near the islands for starters. Let me know how the weeds are.

Quote:

I am sporting an older two-stroke that isn't the quietest motor on the lake, I know alot of you are probably using newer 4strokes that are not nearly as loud. I dont know if that is why I am not catching as many fish trolling as I am casting so I have been just sticking with what is working. I am also running with alot of line out to try to help the cause, maybe 100'? tough guess because of no line counter. Any opinions or suggestions?

Sound travels so fast and easily through water that 50feet-100yds makes little difference. Put on a mask and snorkel and go under water sometime. It's a noisy place down there.

If you are using 8-10lb test fireline,(for #4 hornets) cast to the back of the boat while trolling, point your rod tip to the back of the boat then swing the rod tip to the front of the boat letting out line, twice. 60' is less then 4 boat lengths. Try the cast with two pumps of the rod and go into 6-8 foot of water and see when you hit bottom. It may work out to be one long cast for 6fow. A cast and a pump for 7fow and so on.

If you would like, I could take you out and give you a few tips. Just say when, Sunday through Saturday.

[Muddog]

Ok. I just got out my 8th edition of precision trolling to check some numbers.

It shows that to fish 6 foot deep with 10lb mono (add 1 foot of depth for 14lb fireline with a 6lb mono dia) you would have to let out;

55 feet of line for a shallow shad rap #5

40 feet of line for a shad rap #5 (SR5) 60feet back it dives to 7foot.

It doesn't show the #4 Hornet.

So this makes me ask; TO are you using bearing swivels on your snaps?

[harvey lee]

I let out 40-45 ft of braided line on my line counter with a #4 Salmo hornet and was ticking the bottom in 6 ft of water.

[LMITOUT]

My Precision Trolling book has Salmo's and it shows 25 feet back to hit 6 FOW with a #4 Hornet using 10# mono.

[riverrat56]

My Precision Trolling book has Salmo's and it shows 25 feet back to hit 6 FOW with a #4 Hornet using 10# mono.

That seems quick from my experience, normally with 10lb braided line, 40-45' will tick bottom when the depth finder says 6'. Now there are some variables there to consider such as depth finder error, line counter error, and more likely my lures are slightly out of tune.

Not to speak for TO, but I don't believe he was using a snap swivel, just a snap.

[LMITOUT]

Another thing to consider is the speed at which they're trolled. For the most part speed has no input on the depth of a crank except for two conditions: too slow where the crank doesn't dive at all, or too fast where the crank "blows out" when it reaches it's terminal velocity and it can't "dig" anymore which is a factor of design and/or tuning. Some cranks have no problem with running at high speed while others struggle. A crank that is just slightly out of tune can blow out at a lower speed than a tuned crank because it's already partially rolled over while trying to dig through the water. Go fast enough and it'll usually go into the death spiral and surface. If you stay below the blow out speed the crank will stay down but not as deep as you thought it was supposed to so to compensate more line is let out until the bottom is felt.

The other thing to remember is that the published dive curves are a reference. Although they are pretty spot on for the most part, it's still just a guideline to use.

[riverrat56]

Great point about speed, one that is often forgot because the cranks seem to "pull harder" the faster you go.

Any opinions on the best speed to "tune" a crank at? I like to go just faster than I will troll, so usually around 3.5mph, but should we be cranking it up to 5+mph to make sure there is no issues?

[Team Otter]

Great point about speed, one that is often forgot because the cranks seem to "pull harder" the faster you go.

Any opinions on the best speed to "tune" a crank at? I like to go just faster than I will troll, so usually around 3.5mph, but should we be cranking it up to 5+mph to make sure there is no issues?

Tune 'em just under the speed where they start to kick out.

[Team Otter]

MD, Cross-Lok w/swivel.

[Hookey]

Thanks for the tip !

I will give that a try next time I am out.

[zepman]

Rod position also plays a factor when trolling with 50 ft. and less of line. For example, if you were to troll with 7 1/2 to 8 ft rods and the rod tips were set higher in the rod holder, the point of line entry in the water would be much further away (back) from the boat. This will allow you to troll deeper diving cranks in the skinny water a little more effectively. Same crank trolled with the rod tip just above the water/same amount of line/speed etc...you would get a much different curve.

[harvey lee]

I also use a cross lock and swivel to pull my cranks.

[Team Otter]

Rod position also plays a factor when trolling with 50 ft. and less of line. For example, if you were to troll with 7 1/2 to 8 ft rods and the rod tips were set higher in the rod holder, the point of line entry in the water would be much further away (back) from the boat. This will allow you to troll deeper diving cranks in the skinny water a little more effectively. Same crank trolled with the rod tip just above the water/same amount of line/speed etc...you would get a much different curve.

Great point zep! To add to that, when going at high speeds, I tilt the rod "forward" (when in a rod holder) more towards the back of the boat rather than just straight out. It's a little more forgiving when a fish hits.

[Norselander!]

Here are a couple tricks of the trade for trolling shallow with spinning gear: You can put several bobber-stop knots on your line at various lengths to make it easier to tell how much line you have out. I put one at 40 feet and a second at 60. I know exactly how much line I and my buddies have out at all times. I then just experiment until I find the length that works best, which may change as light conditions change.

I also have a reel spooled with 75 lb. braided line and tipped with three feet of Fireline (so as to not affect the action of the lure). Because the line floats up, there is more margin for error.

[Muddog]

Quote:

My Precision Trolling book has Salmo's and it shows 25 feet back to hit 6 FOW with a #4 Hornet using 10# mono.

My book has a #4 Hornet but it is a SDR H4SDR. I'm not sure that it has the same diving lip as the #4F.

Quote:

MD, Cross-Lok w/swivel.

The w/swivel would cause the crankbait to run less deep by interrupting the water flow at the diving lip. I use just a #2 cross-Lok.

[Morneau132]

Why do you guys use cross-Lok snaps instead of just tying the line directlty to the lure?

[harvey lee]

Very easy to change lures for one.

I also use them when fishinjg with others jigging lures and when I pull blades to reduce line twist.

[LMITOUT]

Quote:

My Precision Trolling book has Salmo's and it shows 25 feet back to hit 6 FOW with a #4 Hornet using 10# mono.

My book has a #4 Hornet but it is a SDR H4SDR. I'm not sure that it has the same diving lip as the #4F.

FYI - I have the Precision Trolling "Pro Edition" and the H4F and H5F are the two Hornets they have listed.

[LMITOUT]

BTW, the "feet back" that is listed on the individual dive curves is based on the rod tip at the water line.

There was some discussion on rod placement so I thought I'd throw that out there for future reference to those curious.

[Muddog]

Quote:

Why do you guys use cross-Lok snaps instead of just tying the line directlty to the lure?

Other then easy change of lure as harvey lee said. It gives the lure a little more movement. Use the cross-loks that are round at the end. I have no idea why the swivel but it looks as if it will keep the lure from running to it's full depth which is good for trolling 6FOW with a #4 Hornet.

[Team Otter]

Why do you guys use cross-Lok snaps instead of just tying the line directlty to the lure?

Quick changes, no line twist and improved lure action.

[wplatehunter]

No line twist and quick lure change makes trolling a lot easier.

[Muddog]

I've said this before but when I troll with spoons I have a swivel on. I have never had problem line twist with a crankbait. The idea is to hold on to the rod so you can feel how the lure is running. Are you ticking the bottom? Is there a weed sliding down you line and fouling your lure? Is your lure poping up to the surface and diving again? Or is it just not thumping like it should because of a small amount of weed or moss on a hook? And the big one that might twist your line, did the lure hook the line? All of these you should be able to feel and correct in a very short amount of time and well before line twist would become a problem.

It does work for some of you to use a swivel and as TO said If it's not broke don't fix it. If you do want to fish a foot or two deeper with the same amount of line out and the same lure, remove the swivel.

You guys must use rod holders alot more then I do.

[Muddog]

I went out on a hunt for the worlds #1 Game fish today (Carp). Thing started a little slow. We moved into the shallows with the Bow mounted electric motor and looked for Carp movement. As we did this we threw some Bass lures. On my third cast I hooked up with a 15 Bass, nice. I got it back into the water and made a cast back to the same spot, A 20-1/8” Bass, Nicer.

We set up on a couple of spot in deeper water with no luck. We then mover into shallow water and saw some nice sized Carp and set up the area with some corn and put the anchors down. After a 20 minute wait my strike indicator went down. I reeled in the slack and set the hook. Zingggggggg went the drag as the fish headed out to deep water. Tom M, got his line in and I handed him my rod. As the Carp continued his run I got the two anchors in and the Bow mount heading out after the Carp. Tom M, handed the rod back to me and the fight was on. After a 10 minute fight I had a 16lb Carp aboard.

We went back to the spot put the anchors down and lines back in the water. A short time later down goes my strike indicator again. Once again I take up slack and set the hook. Zinggggg, nothing the fish got off the hook. I put more corn on my hair rig and got it back in the water. 5 minutes later and down goes the strike indicator. Once again I take up slack and set the hook. Zinggggg goes the drag. I look over to Tom M, and he is setting the hook on another Carp! So here I am with a carp running out 100yds of line while I try to get the back anchor out of the water. Imposable. I look at Tom M, as his fish in taking line and tell him he will have to hold my rod while I get the back anchor up. I get the 2 anchors in and see the two Carp are still taking line so I get a action shot.

After I get my rod back and get the boat into deeper water Tom M's fish gets loose. He gets his line in and I hand him my rod (It was my turn to net a fish). After another 10 minutes we have a 18lb 13oz Carp on board.

We did manage to lose one more before we called it quits.

Let me tell you Carp are way more fun then LM Bass.

[zepman]

Very nice Muddog!!

[Muddog]

It is a different mind set fishing for Carp. You scout the area for Carp activity. You setup the area. Then you find the best place to position yourself to keep from spooking them as they come through. Then you sit and wait. Kind of like Deer hunting with a bow.

Boy it get hot Sitting on the calm side of the lake this time of year.

[riverrat56]

Sweet report and pics Muddog!

Can I ask what your using for a strike indicator? Some type of bobber or float on the line? Or is it mounted on your rod?

[Muddog]

It is a odd setup so I’ll try to explain it.

When Carp are feeding it is not like a Bass or Walleye. They tend to graze. They pick up the corn and move to the next peace of corn, it is not going to swim away so they don’t strike at it,

I was using a #8 octopus hook tied in a hair rig with 14lb fire line (Mono is to stiff ). The leader was 12-14inches long tied to a swivel. On the other side of the swivel I had a 1/4oz barrel sinker (lindy rig style). Now the strike indicator which can be a ice fishing bobber, small red and white bobber or any thin as long as it is small. It is not there to hold the bait off the bottom. If you are fishing in 3FOW place the indicator 4-5 feet up from the sinker. Sometime this calls for a long rod and I was using a 11 foot rod. This way when the Carp picks up the hook you can tell right away. It can be very subtle. Until you set the hook!