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Best bobber stops?


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I like to use slip bobbers and use the commercially tied bobber stops that are strings tied around a short length of plastic tube. Is there any way of preventing these from loosening after they're attached to the line? Or is there a better kind of bobber stop that doesn't have unwanted slip?

Thanks.

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It is risky, but after I cut my string down to size (after putting stop on line), I burn end of string with lighter. It forms little balls of melted string on end of stop, that I can get my finger nails on to tighten knot after it on my line.

Be careful, if you hit line with flam it will melt or even worse weaken line and you could loose your next fish. I have practiced over and over again during winter in fish house and have this down pretty good (with out burning line) and the little balls stay on knot all winter.

I have used this method with my braided line also. After uni-knott is tied on braid, I carefully burn left over chunk of line and it forms a ball. When line is pulled tight (snag or large fish) the burnt ball of braid stops the line from going threw knot and undoing knot.

Good luck!!!

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I like the plastic "dog bone" type that have holes on each end and you loop the line around the middle. Then a bead goes between this and your bobber. They seem to work a lot better than the string for me. I really like the three hole ones but they are tough to find.

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For me, they seem loosen up fast. If the I/d of the plastic or rubber stops wears even a bit, it is junk.

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Can you tell me more about the dog bone style? I've seen them and never tried the because I assumed they wouldn't go through the rod guides very well. I often make pretty long casts.

Thanks for the help!!!

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That is another big reason, they catch on eyelet of rod.

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I like the dogbone ones. I have trouble moving them when I want to!!! And I've never had a problem with them cathing on the guide.

They're easy to use. Put the line through one of the holes, wrap it around the middle section 4 times or so, then out through the other hole.

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Theres one better than the dogbone it looks the same but it has 4 holes and weaves on tight,glides through eyelets and is easily adjusted its for from 2-12 lb. line.there WT silp & set Bobber stops made by Rainbow Plastic Co.In fort Collins Colo.Mine are 31 yrs old and yet work there hard to wearout!

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I could be thinking of a totaly differnt style.

The one I thought they were talking about are the rubber ball type with the wire loop going threw them. You run line threw loop and push rubber ball onto line and pull through.

I have given this style a shot once or twice and they catch while realing up and move. If you pull line through them 4 or 5 times, the inside of rubber wears and stop is shot. I allways end up tearing it off once and awhile or when it catches the line cuts threw the rubber half way and its junk.

I never have heard of them called "dog bones", I just called them rubber bobber stops.

Sorry for the mix up!!!

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I'm going to the BWCA with some friends. I usually use the string type stops and an open-face reel. I know my friends will be using closed-face reels and as I recall the string type bobber stops get hung up in those.

Do the bone type stops work in a zebco type reel?

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Quote:

I could be thinking of a totaly differnt style.

The one I thought they were talking about are the rubber ball type with the wire loop going threw them. You run line threw loop and push rubber ball onto line and pull through.

I have given this style a shot once or twice and they catch while realing up and move. If you pull line through them 4 or 5 times, the inside of rubber wears and stop is shot. I allways end up tearing it off once and awhile or when it catches the line cuts threw the rubber half way and its junk.

I never have heard of them called "dog bones", I just called them rubber bobber stops.

Sorry for the mix up!!!


Yeah, Shack, those are different than dogbones. I hate the soft rubber ones, too.

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I have never tried the rubber ones with the wire, but have never heard good things about them. I have tried the dog bones ones and hated them, they were too hard for me to adjust and caught on my guides. just my opinion. I have not tried them since i have switched to superline. I use the string ones when i do use them, they slip almost too eaily on the super line, i just leave a little bit of string there so that i can clamp on to them with 2 pairs of forceps and tighten them up. just my opinion.

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Theres one better than the dogbone it looks the same but it has 4 holes and weaves on tight,glides through eyelets and is easily adjusted its for from 2-12 lb. line.there WT silp & set Bobber stops made by Rainbow Plastic Co.In fort Collins Colo.Mine are 31 yrs old and yet work there hard to wearout!


Might have to give these ones a shot. I get tired of trying to keep the string ones tight on braided line.

cat-bobber-stops.jpg

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I use different stops for different applications.

-String Stops - These are probably the most popular, and for good reason. They're cheap, easy to use, and do a fairly good job of staying put. I use these for most applications, but you really need to tighten them up before using. Tighten, then slide up the line a bit and re-tighten. Check to see if you're putting wear or a kink in your line. They should be difficult to move after you tighten. Careful about using pliers, you can easily damage your line.

Dog-bone - Thinner diameter mono is difficult with any bobber stop except the dog-bone style. These are more difficult to use, but hold better on the thinner stuff IMO.

Rubber stops - These are on a ring, secured to looped wire.....slip the line through the loop and pull a stop off of the wire and onto your line. I use these quite bit when lindy rigging with long snells. 10-12ft snells are the rage, but it's tough to net a fish with such long leaders. Using these as a "weight-stop" above the swivel, rather than traditional bobber stop works well, as you can reel the sinker up to the rod tip, then keep reeling to bring the fish closer to the net. Just slide the stop higher above the swivel to desired snell-length. Another bonus is you can quite easily change your snell length as conditions merit.

I'll also use the rubber stops as my main slip-bobbering stops when using some of the higher quality rods with smaller tips. St. Croix's, Shimano Crucials, Limit Creeks, and another custom rod I own have smaller tips, and when you put any load into the rod, the string-style stops have a tendency to slide down. The rubber ones slip through the guides better because of their egg-shape, and I have little problems with these.

Joel

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I use the string type but I don't cut off the ends, that way I can retighten. I don't have any trouble with it going through the guides.

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Ever try 2 of the string type back to back? I've been doing this the last couple of years and it seems to work ok. Like metioned before, leave enough string on the ends so that you can re-tighten if you need to.

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Ever try 2 of the string type back to back? I've been doing this the last couple of years and it seems to work ok. Like metioned before, leave enough string on the ends so that you can re-tighten if you need to.


Thats how I do it when using braided line.

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I have always used the gizmo bobber stops.Now i just purchased 3 bobbers with a brain and will try them out.No bobber stops needed with these.

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Heres an ebay auction number that shows them.Just type it in the ebay search. 140134187252

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I love to bobber fish so thanks for spreading the word. I just bought a ten pack, hopefully I can post again with rave reviews. Nice to see a company making lead free products seeing as every sinker bought represents a sinker on the bottom.

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Here`s another auction on ebay that shows the bobber in action. 140133207993 I have not had a chance to try it out yet.If anyone has,give me your opinion on them.

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The string type doubled up when using power pro.

Holds strong even with the bobbers I use.

100_0288.jpg

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I got a new one for ya! This is one I thought of. I just tie a very small slip knot in the line where I want the bobber to stop. I just wrap the line around my fingers once and pull through. If you pull on the lines the knot comes out. It stops the bobber, and rarely gets in the way of casting if you keep the knot small. When you hook a fish, the not comes undone, yeah you need to re-tie the not but its very quick. I mainly use this knot on my lighter rod. I may get ripped apart for this by the "pros," its kinda the lazy mans way, but it works really well for me. I've never lost a fish due to it. If anyone really wants a better description, let me know.

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How do you get on the same spot all the time with your not? Im sure you get some line wear from this?

I use the thick pink bobber stops from JR's tackle. The best I have found and great pricing.

I used to tie my own but just started buying them 500 at a time and its fairly inexpensive that way.

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Quote:

I use the string type but I don't cut off the ends, that way I can retighten. I don't have any trouble with it going through the guides.


I do somewhat the same thing. I leave enough of the tag ends to grab onto and retighten if needed.

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