Guests - If You want access to member only forums on FM. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on Fishing Minnesota.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
Gator Slayer

Premium Fuel

Recommended Posts

Gator Slayer

Looking at buying a new boat and the dealer is really pushing a fuel injected motor because they won't varnish or gum up. I've always used premium gas to prevent that and he says that I shouldn't use premium gas in a small motor. Is this true? He said it burns too hot. Are they that particular? Appreciate the insight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LMITOUT

Nothing wrong with using the premium. I also used it in my carbed engine not because I was after the higher octane, but rather that I prefer to not use ethanol based fuel in my seasonal engines. Not all premium is non-oxy though....just those with the little sticker on the pumps that state that it's non-oxy.

My new boat has a 4-stroke and there is nothing in the owner's manual that says NOT to use premium. It also states not to use gas which contains ethanol in excess of 20% I believe. I know the regular pumps aren't 20% ethanol, but I figure 0% is better than any if they don't want 20% in it. Must be a reason they don't like it and I have to agree. wink.gif

He may be pushing the injected engine just so you fork out more cash. Are there even any carbed engines available these days? I thought they were all fuel-injection now.

edit: I looked at the manual for my Yamaha and they actually say no more than 10% ethanol! So what's everyone going to do in a few years since the state mandated 12% without actually doing any research on what engines can run? I hope they still have non-oxy available or I'll be sending my repair bill into the governor's office. Another "feel good" bill from our boys and girls in St. Paul. frown.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Orlip

I use premium non-oxy in all my small engine stuff. Snowblower, weed whip, chainsaw, ice auger, log splitter, garden tractor, leaf blower, Atv and I use it in my I/O. I have not had any issues in 5 + years.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
griz29

The fuels with ethanol do alot of damaage to all the rubber seals and such in the small engine carbs IMO. I think its because they for one are not run every day and the fuel sits in the carbs for much longer periods of time than your car or truck. Just my .02 cents I used to do a lot of carb jobs when I was a small engine mechanic most the time the damage was done when the equipment sat during the off season.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pfluemis

Quote:

Looking at buying a new boat and the dealer is really pushing a fuel injected motor because they won't varnish or gum up. I've always used premium gas to prevent that and he says that I shouldn't use premium gas in a small motor. Is this true? He said it burns too hot. Are they that particular? Appreciate the insight.


To state it in the most basic way, octane is the measurement of a fuels flashpoint. The tempature, or tempature range in which the fuel ignites. The higher the octane, the higher the flashpoint. Octane and compression go hand in hand becouse the more compression there is, the more resistance to preignition or detonation you need. Compression naturally creates heat, which in turn, raises the tempature of the combustion chamber. So, when in doubt, use higher octane fuel. The worse that can happen is your wasting a few cents per gallon becouse the higher octane is not needed. On the other hand, if you don't use the higher octane fuel when it is needed, catastrophic engine failure could result. Best thing to do is look up in the owners manual what fuel is required. Personally, I run non-oxygenated (no ethanol added) premium fuel in every small engine I have, excluding my garden tractor. Boat motors, chain saws, weed trimmer, pressure washer, snowmobiles, ect...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Slyster

I can tell you.. use NON-ethanol (non-oxy) fuel! (For sure true for 2 stroke motors and other small motors... and probably a certainty for all motors with carburetors... not sure about fuel injected etc... probably doesn't matter as much... but certainly wouldn't hurt!)

That 10+% "ethanol added" fuels KILL many boat motors.. (clogs them up)... my brand new 2004 Johnson 15hp 2 stroke was totally gummed up and dead in just 3 years. After cleaning.. I switched to pure non-oxy gas. Can't say yet.. but I doubt I will have any gumming problems now!

The guy who fixed it (a really knowledgeable outboard pro) told me this was from the crappy ethanol fuels sold everywhere these days. AND.. I had even disconnected the hose and let the engine die out after each day out... it didn't help!

Now I only use pure gas.. and yes.. there aren't too many stations that sell it.. but there happens to be one near my house in Maplewood (Just south of Hwy 36 on White Bear Ave)... the pumps have the sticker.

There is a website that lists all the area stations that sell non-oxy gas.. I don't know it offhand.. but someone will.. or you can google it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Fisherman For a Lifetime

The BP Amoco in Stacy right off I-35 has 92 Octane, 100% Gasoline.

Keep that Ethanol out of your engines! smile.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Orlip

Maybe we should start posting which stations around the metro have pure gas so people know where to get it when they are out and about. I only know of the Fleet Farm in Lakeville.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cliff Wagenbach

Use the premium fuel!

Every engine mechanic that I have talked to said that premium non-oxygenated fuel is the only fuel that should be used!

Cliff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ebiz

I used to buy it at the old Phillips station on 17th & Como down by the U. They quit carrying it a while back. Anyone know a place to get non-oxy fuel between the U and the New Brighton area?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Pleasant

Post deleted by Pleasant

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Pleasant

Thanks D, It was not working out real well for me to get it up on the forum. I use non oxy in my collector cars so I had the list.

thanks again

Lynn J

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Orlip

Quote:

Here's that list:


Cool thanks for the list. The boy wants to know how big that fish is in your avatar?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DTro

Quote:

Quote:

Here's that list:


Cool thanks for the list. The boy wants to know how big that fish is in your avatar?


It was 60" and approx 50-55lbs

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
cliffy

I have a 1999 Honda 4-stroke (75hp) boat motor that is carb..not EFI. I would strongly suggest following the owner’s manual on what gas is recommend for use. I just got mine back from the repair shop due to gas related carb problems...and it ran me 800.00 for repair cost. (I had them fix a broken gas gauge as well....so who knows what the total carb re-build cost). Spending a few more cents at the gas pump can save you a big lump of cash in the long run.

Cliffy

PS: So, if I understand this correctly, most use non-oxy gas in small engines..such as lawn mowers..etc. Do many of you use it in your larger engines such as 4-stroke boat motors..either carb or efi?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Jeremy airjer W

I use the cheap stuff in everything! lawnmower is going on 6 years. Forgot to winterize it last fall. Popped right off. The boat I use the cheap stuff all summer, I do however fill the tanks with premium and add seafoam and run a little through the carbs, Then let it run dry before I put it away for the winter!

The thing that will help more than using premium is to stabalize any fuel that doesn't get used on a regular basis. Seafoam is a great 4 in one product for this. Also any equipment that sits dormant for an extended period should have the carbs run dry, have the fuel stabalized, and stored with a full tank to reduce the chance for moisture buildup! Do this with all your engines and your chances of failure greatly decrease!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
raymondk

Another thing to consider is to get fuel that is somewhat fresh i ran into some trouble getting high octane real gas and I ran into alot of trouble i think it was real old It was a small station . after that I tryed real gas a few times and I didn't see any difference i also put a little seafoam in my tanks every once in a while and I have never had any problems with using any kind of gas i think they push the high octane thing to much in my opinion it is a waste of money .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
fishinchicks

Just about every engine can run the 10% ethanol blend right now. I do not know what year the switch was made for each company, but you will not void your warranty by running the 10% blend oxygenated fuels. The biggest issue is basic maintenance, and storing your motors properly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Eric Wettschreck

Mid-70's Evenrude, weed whacker, 2 lawn mowers, 70 Johnson VRO, gas auger, 2 chain saws, 38 John Deer "A", 72 Dodge RV, 93 Grand am, 92 Grand Am, 2000 Olds bravada....They all get the same gas. The gas they get is the cheapest stuff at the pump. Normally 87 octane with 10% ethanol. No problems yet. More than likely there will be no problems, either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HardH20Lover

As I was reading this I thought there was no need to post. I kept reading and it seems to be heading towards using the cheap gas. As an Intructor in the Marine and Small Engine field, I can tell you if you use the cheap gas with ethynol in it you will be keeping my graduates in business cleaning your carbs. All small engines should have non-oxygenated fuel. If you insist on buying the cheap stuff for your lawnmowers, etc., put some STabil in it. But don't use it in your expensive motors Period.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
fishinchicks

Are you sure about that? The older formulations - from 10 years ago would have been that way, but not now. You are perpetuating one of the biggest myths about ethanol. Briggs & Stratton, Honda, Toro/Lawnboy, Kohler, and Snapper all approve the use of E10 Unleaded fuel in their equipment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Eric Wettschreck

Not trying to start an arguement here, but I gotta disagree with that one.

I've been using the cheap stuff for many many many many years in a whole lotta engines. The only time I ever had a carb problem was with a 99 Yamaha XTC 700 snowmobile and it was completely my fault. It sat 3 years. It doesn't matter what fuel blend was in it, it would have gummed. I agree oxy fuel will evaporate out faster but that does not mean it should'nt be used.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ChuckN

Almost all my engines are recommended to run on 87 octane, and I have absolutely no problems using it. Since 87 is ethanol blend in MN, most of the engines are designed for the blend anyways. I've put premium in some motors, like my high performance snowmobiles, and they simply do not run well at all. Since they were designed to run 87, 92 octane will not combust as well.

But, I do agree to someone's post to use Stabil and Sea Foam additives during storage. Additives should always be used if the engine sits for extended periods of time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DinkADunk

In order for products like Stabil or Seafoam to work (stabalize fuel) they need fresh gas. So add the stabalizer product of your choice WHEN you buy the gas. Adding a stabalizer to old fuel is just throwing money away.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • monstermoose78
      I need to slow down and focus on shooting 
    • MinnowBuckets
      Those are some nice looking river walleyes!
    • monstermoose78
      Again this morning I could not hit anything. This missing is get expensive.
    • Rick G
    • Hines R
      Tamarack Island Wilderness Lodge is pretty accommodating. Grassy Narrows Lodge is one of the nicer lodges in my opinion on the Canadian Southern portion. We made a point of stopping at a bunch of locations last year and this is good sized and really nice. At this point it would be my preferred Lodge on that portion of the lake. Both of these are boat into and on an island. Ryan
    • HugeHogChaser
      any luck there? i've never had luck. hoping to break my unlucky streak soon.
    • HugeHogChaser
      Good afternoon guys, I live in Burnsville and I was wondering if anyone has had much luck on Crystal Lake for bass and Pike? I've fished it a few times and only caught 2 bass in a total of 8 hours.  Not looking for any specific locations, but any tips would be much appreciated!!!   Live bait? Plastics? Troll cranks for pike? thanks guys, have a great day. Gabe   
    • smurfy
      i hope soo!!!!!! but being it MEA weekend 'm guessing it will be a zoo till sunday!!!!!!!
    • gunner55
      There were 5 maybe 6 boats over at the resort Thursday - Sunday. Heard they were doing some hunting too. Pretty quiet on the bay, most of the docks & lifts are out. Probably going to get real quiet after you show up.
    • jayway
      1) Lumen (lm) Lumen is the international(SI) unit of luminous flux, a measure of overall light emitted by a light source. 2) Candela (cd) Candela is the international(SI) unit of luminous intensity, a measure of light emitted by a light source in a particular direction.
      Any given light source will have different luminous intensities in different directions considered.
      [candela = lumen/solid angle] 3) Beam Angle [Unit : degree] Beam angle is the angle between two directions for which the luminous intensity is 50% of the maximum intensity as measured in a plan through the nominal beam center-line. The beam angle of a lamp gives an idea of how the light beam spread away form the beam center. 4) LUX (lx) Lux is the international(SI) unit of illuminance, a measure of light arriving at a surface, 1 lumen per square foot equals 1 foot-candle, while 1 lumen per square meter equals 1 lux.
      [lux = lumen/m2] 5) Color Temperature / Correlated Color Temperature (CCT) A black-Body radiator will have different color when it is heated up to different temperature(in kelvin). The temperature at which the heated black-body radiator matches the color of the light source is the color temperature of the light source. 6) Color Rendering Index (CR) Color rendering index, ranged from 0-100, measures a light source's ability to reproduce the color of various objects being lit by reference light source, black body radiator (CRI=100) 7) Efficacy (lm/W) Efficacy is the efficacy of a light source to convert electricity power to light expressed in lumen output per unit power input (watt)
      [Efficacy = lumen / wattage] 8) Dimming Not all lighting products are designed for dimming function. None-dimming LED lighting product will cause unpredictable result and may affect the life time of the products. The below figure shows the typical input current variation while adjusting the DC voltage input to dimming and none-dimming product.